Chevrolet - Tahoe :: 2007 - Total Electrical Power Failure
I have a 2007 Chev Tahoe. Description of Problem: Past month engine light came on. Then some days for a short time will go off. When light is on the auto start wont work. Battery has been drained so today I changed the battery and have a total electrical power system failure. Zero power to anything. Last month I put a scanner on it but i didnt save the code. It was related to a "throttle body module" i think. Have been reading about the BCM also so im at a complete loss...
View 4 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Electrical Power Fluctuations EGT Gauge Failure
I am on my third EGT gauge. My mechanic installed it as per "auto meter" specifications. He told me, the only reason he could find that the gauges have been failing is low voltage output. I have an onboard compressor for my airbag suspension and every time I start my vehicle it runs to fill up the air system. The voltage drops to 11.1V. It comes up once all is running and the compressor quits. is there any such thing as surge/brownout protection for these systems?
View 1 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Intermittent Electrical Voltage Readings?
My Volt gauge on the dash has started reading around 10V with the key on waiting on the GP's. Batteries read +/- 12.6V with a DVM in a static state, no key.
But, quickly as best as I could see the reading on the DS battery drop to around 10V with the key on, GP's cycling. Cranking drops down around 8Vish.
After starting the reading on the DS battery is back up to 10V. This lasts anywhere from 30 seconds to a few min. Then it jumps up to the expected 14.6V reading.
I cleaned up the battery terminals and clamps while doing my turbo,and all the connections are tight.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Battery Light Came On And Would Flicker
Battery light came on about two months ago it would flicker. So i had Auto zone check it out batteries were good just needed a charge. so i charged them no fix so i said alright ill do the Alternator did that and then beginning of this week it happened again so checked it went back got a replacement alternator since they said it tested bad. Put the new one on and didnt change anything. Check my batteries they were reading 10v each. I charged them and they wouldn't hold a charge. so i replacement both batteries.
So i have a new alternator and two new batteries light is still on. Contacted my tech (whose a friend) he said to check the wiring going to the alt he said both wires should read 12v on constant other when the key is turned on. Tested the constant it has 12v other reads 6-8v with key on.
He also said sometimes the wiring on the X pipe can short the alternator? i unhooked all the wiring from the Xpipe nothing changed per battery light being on or off. So what should i do.?
Also my dash lights don't work but that's been like that for awhile (bulbs are all good).. Forgot to mention sometimes the light goes off but seems to stay on 90% of the time.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Total Instrument Failure At Once
All instruments quit working at once on my 97 F-150 - speed, tach, fuel, volts, temp, odo, trip odo, oil. All idiot lights have failed except battery and seat belt. Indication for Overdrive is not working.
I have checked all other equipment and can find nothing else that is not working. I have checked the 50 A fuses (20 and 21) under the hood and also the 5 A fuse (2) under the dashboard, all are ok. Fuse 18 is also good, and the dashboard illumination is working. All fuses checked visually and with a meter. The annoying chimes are all working. The hi-lo beam indication, auto down feature for the drivers side window, and all features associated with wipers are working.
Checked for OBDII codes, passed with no codes listed, although the idiot light is not working. I have been searched this site fand read many posts. I think I saw a thread somewhere that stated that this was probably a GEM problem....
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Battery Light Flicker In Time With The Idle Of Truck
I bought a 7.3 f250 with 300k mi. It had a battery light on but didn't show any signs of trouble. Eventually started dropping volts a few days later and I replaced the alternator. The light is still on and flickers in time with the idle of the truck and sometimes goes out when I'm on the gas pedal. Some nights when the lights are on the voltage drops ever so slowly until its drained. Why the new alternator didn't fix the problem? NAPA's scanner says the truck has 12.4V at idle and 12.1V at idle with the lights on. Batteries are relatively new and test fine, dual Interstate Mega-tron Plus batteries-top of the line.
View 6 RepliesHonda - Cr-v :: 1999 - Total Clutch Failure / Does Not Engage Fully When Let Out
Our 1999 CRV has had the clutch fail several times in the past year. The pattern is that you notice it slipping a bit now and then, but trending worse over a few days. Then it gets dramatically worse in a period of minutes: it does not engage fully when let out. The pedal feels fine, the engine is running fine, but power is not transmitted to the wheels.
On two occasions, we were able to take it directly and the mechanic resolved the problem with some adjustment to the master cylinder, or something like that (my wife spoke to the mechanic and it was many months ago).
Last winter, I was driving as the problem was recurring and I found myself nursing the slipping clutch up a steep one mile grade. At the top of the hill, totally flat ground, the problem continued to get worse for the next half mile, till there was no power at all! Engine fine, pedal action fine, but effectively the clutch was permanently disengaged. I left the car there over night. The next morning, before calling for a tow, I tried again and the clutch was working! I could tell it was still slipping a bit, but it was no problem to drive to the mechanic, who fixed the problem again for just a hundred bucks or so.
Yesterday, my wife again found that the clutch failed completely over the course of a few miles driving. She had to be towed. Today the mechanic says they can't reproduce the problem!
Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1965 - Clicking When Turn The Key To Start / Total Loss Of Power
1965 F100 300cid electrical drain...
I am attaching a link to my thread in the 1960's truck forum : [URL] .....
With my limited skill level, I have given up! It could very likely be something I am doing wrong with the diagnoses/troubleshooting.
Basically, When I turn the key to start the truck, I get a clicking solenoid at best and what appears to be a total loss of power. Not even the dome light will come on. The starter is new as is the solenoid.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Intermittent Power Loss?
I have a F350 that has intermittent power loss.
View 14 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Steering Intermittent Or No Power Steer
My 7.3 power steering is acting up. Feels like I am up against a rock. At slow speeds like parking lot maneuvering I struggle to turn wheel. Then all of a sudden I'll get power steering back and wheel will rapidly turn. Freaky.
Brake pressure is fine. They shutter pretty bad even with the new rotors I just put on but they have good pressure. But the steering is intermittent or no power steer.
I saw online to run engine at 2000 rpm and try steering but no change. Still no power steer. There is fluid in reservoir. There is fluid seeping up steering column from steering box. No clue if this is related or unrelated.
How to troubleshoot further. I hate throwing parts at problems before truly diagnosing. Also have pretty aggressive lurching during turns in four wheel drive. It's present on dirt road but worse on pavement. Don't know if this is related or not.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Power Steering Loss Intermittent - New Pump?
I have a 2000 Excursion. This weekend, I noticed some intermittent failure of the power steering where it seemed like the pump was not engaging and then would all of the sudden. Deciding to try to head off a failure, I got a reman unit from Oreilly and installed it this morning. It was fine when I tested, had good brakes and went locked to lock quietly without fuss. Let the house and within a mile, I lost steering and brake assist. I stopped and turned around, but what I am noticing is that at idle, I have no power steering, but when the RPM's are up, I do.
View 3 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Intermittent Loss Of Power - Momentarily Stuttering
Intermittent loss of power (could be describe momentarily stuttering) with momentary illumination of the check engine soon light. Its only happened a couple of times. Maybe about a year ago (I changed the fuel filter after it occurred). It occurred again about a month ago and then again yesterday. About a month ago I had a friend with a scanner look at the codes and he said there was only one and it was for low fuel pressure. Its been maybe 5k since I changed the fuel filter.
The truck is driven intermittently, maybe 5k or 6k a year, and usually parked with a full tank of fuel. What areas I should look at to correct this? I got my stock 2001 F350 4x4 manual transmission in 2004 with about 157k miles. Today I've got about 228k miles.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Intermittent Rough Motor / Black Smoke And Low Power
I have an Excursion with 220k miles. I've owned the truck for 6+ years and had very few problems. I change my own oil and fuel filters, but beyond that I know next to nothing about the diesel motor. I do run a DP Tuner with the standard 80 hp program. And a 4" exhaust. Everything else is stock. I do keep it plugged it for the oil heater and the battery tender just about all the time now.
This latest issue started yesterday morning when my wife jumped in a cool truck to take the kids to the dentist (not warmed up but still 55 degrees ambient). A few miles down the road (35 mph max) the motor began stumbling and rocking and black smoke coming from the exhaust with reduced power. She pulled off and kept it running (very rough and rocking) and put it in park for a minute. When she put back in drive, it shifted heavily but the power was normal so she went on her way without any problems. The only report I got sounded like the motor was just cold and rough, so I thought nothing more of it.
Yesterday evening we drove it about 70 miles on the highway (72 mph max) with no issue at all, but when we continued on surface streets toward our destination (50 mph max) it did the same thing, but would not settle back down. I kid you not that it went through gallons of fuel the last 12 miles or so, just dumping black smoke out the exhaust. It felt to me like we were running 1/2 the motor, like the plugs weren't lit. Very rough and rocking and very little power (comparatively, at least). I had to switch to manually shifting the trans to get going and the shifts were much rougher than usual. Idle was low and rough but it never stalled. Behind me there was a huge smoke screen this entire time.
We made it to our destination and parked it. Did our thing and after 5 hours went out with finger crossed. Started right up and ran perfectly the entire 91 miles home. No motor or trans issues at all. Currently running 10/40 synthetic oil that I just changed about 2000 miles ago. Oil level is perfect. 3/4 tank of fuel with standard level of Diesel Kleen added. Fuel filter is less than 10k miles old. Temps yesterday were 65-70 on the drive down and 50-55 on the way back.
I jiggled all sorts of connectors this morning and didn't find anything loose.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: IDM Failure Code And High Side Open Bank 1 And 2
Today I just installed a brand new IDM and after running the Injector Buzz Test test, I received codes: P1298 Injector Drive Module Failure, P1293 Injector High Side Open - Bank 1, and P1294 Injector High Side Open - Bank 2. How a new IDM could throw these codes?
When running the KOEO test I received codes P0605 Injector Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error, P1298, P1293, & P1294.
My engine is still missing but the engine is running a heck of a lot better after replacing the IDM and injector 8 has a rotational velocity of about 3%
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: New Fuel Bowl Drain / Water Separator Failure After 3 Weeks?
Had the ole factory fuel separator/bowl drain start leaking on me about a month back. So i ordered and installed a new one, issue fixed. Well last night the fuel leak started again, I looked everywhere and i cant see anywhere else it may be leaking at. I felt the underside of said piece and it didn't feel wet, but the valley is full of fuel.
I got in there and tightened the 4 bolts down some more, they were tight but i got a some turns on em and am hoping i either didn't tighten it down enough or they maybe backed out some. Now just gotta see if that solves the problem, again.... the replacement is a doorman, the o-rings were bigger/thicker than the factory orings on the old part, of which the o-rings were shot.
Like I said once i replaced the part the leak stopped for 3 weeks until last night. If the tightening of the bolts doesn't solve it where should I look next? I have an FRX mod but i checked all that and its dry as a bone around all the fittings by the bowl and the heads. No indications of leaks anywhere around any of the FRX assembly.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Partial Crank And Intermittent Start
Anyway, I went out to start my truck just now and I'm getting a weird symptom.
The truck gets partial revolution and then to me it seems like the starter bendix pulls back in prematurely and this nasty clank and then a slight "zing". all within a second.
If I try a few more times, it seems to fire. But all the attempts before it fires sound pretty nasty to me.
Does this sound like a symptom of a bad starter/bendix?
A little further history, my excursion was broken into several years ago and they stole my pioneer head unit, in doing so, they forced the shifter down and since then it has been a little "loose". I'm wondering if it could be a neutral safety switch on the transmission?
Anyway, I'm getting ready to order a new neutral safety switch but wondering if I should go ahead a purchase a new starter as well?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Intermittent Starting / Spin Like A Top But Not Fire
2002 7.3 PS TD.
Lately sometimes when I get in and start the truck all is well. Then the next time it will spin like a top, but not fire. New batteries. Then it will fire right up. It may go a few weeks, or days, then it happens again. Temperature does not seem to be a factor. It also doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold. Once when rounding a corner at low speed, it just died, then started right up.
I recently changed the fuel and air filters. I think the glow plugs are getting old. In cool weather I turn the key on for about 1 min. before cranking. I have 110,000 on the engine with all original parts.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Intermittent Starting / Code P1280
My 02 f250 w/ 7.3 won't start. Cranks and nothing. No smoke or anything. For the last year It has had a intermittent starting problem, where I would drive it for 15-20 mins. If I shut it off like I would if I was at the fuel pump and then restart it, it wouldn't. I'd have to wait 30 minutes with a hood open and then it may start. Other times I would have to wait hours.
I tried replacing the crank position sensor, the fuel pump and filter.I did all this in the Last 300 mile . There's No change. After a week or two of sitting it won't start. What can I check and what can I try.
To add more info. Since I am not the original owner I pulled the computer that is located behind the ebrake to see if someone else had installed a chip, as I've heard that if that chip goes bad then the truck won't start. I disconnected that battery and pulled it. Negative on any chip. Put it all back together and tried again. No start. I borrowed a code reader tonight and pulled a P1280 code. I'm back to square one.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Intermittent 0 Boost After Short Drive
I guess it would be classified as very intermittent but in the past year I have had 3 separate times when my truck has after a short drive suddenly had zero boost..
Pull over and turn it off for 30 sec or so and all is fine. Cycle the ignition faster than that and issue persisted. It has only happened in colder temps. In all the reading I have done on FTE I've not come across anything similar.