Celica :: 2001 Crank Slowly - Changed Battery But After 1-2 Seconds Engine Dies
2001 Celica, battery dead after seeming to crank more slowly each time it was started during the day (wife was driving). I disconnected the battery to charge/test it, after reconnecting it started immediately but after 1-2 seconds engine dies. RPMs can be coaxed up to 3,000 in that time, but even though it seems to be running fine it shuts completely off, no coughing or sputtering. Won't start at all unless key is turned off and then back on, then it will do the same as described above.
It's giving a P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1 error code. Possible causes listed are:
- Ignition Coil No. 1 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil No. 1 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Ignition Coil No. 1
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Seems to me a lot like the last, the ECM.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 Excursion Will Run Barely For About 20 Seconds / Shudders Then Dies
2001 Ford Excursion 7.3 will run barely for about 20 sec. shudders, then dies. Bought new, driven 334K miles. Performed the usual fixes common to 7.3 issues over the years. All original injectors except for #7 which I replaced about 5 yrs ago. (I know should have replaced in sets but not in the budget at the time). Anyway had my wife turn the engine over after I had removed valve covers for inspection and observed a lot of smoke coming out of what appears to be at or around number 7 rocker arm valley? All rocker arm/pushrods look to be moving as they should beyond that I'm in over my head. Am I screwed or could it possibly just be a bad injector/injectors?
View 12 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 Excursion Will Crank But Only Start Randomly
I have a 2001 Excursion 7.3 Diesel that is having a starting issue. Have replaced the batteries, has new glow plugs, common failing cam position sensor replaced once already. It runs great when it starts, no codes. It will crank, but not turn over at random times. Will do this for 3 or 4 tries...charge the batteries, go back later to start and it will on the second try. Turn it off, try again..and back to cranking, but not starting. Not fun having to worry about being stranded somewhere. Absolutely desperate at this point.
View 4 RepliesFord Fuel System :: 2001 Excursion Started Missing / Loss Of Power
2001 Excursion 7.3 started missing the other night. Great loss of power, but made it home. Rough idle, "clacky". Next morning, did the following in order: 1) Pulled the fuel filter inspected, 2) removed all fuel from the bowl 3) replaced bowl fuel with Seafoam 4) installed new filter (my typical procedure). Without starting, I then 5) removed HPOP oil from reservoir and 6) filled with fresh oil using exact amount removed as a gauge for what to replace.
Started, idle smooth for a time. Increased rpm by depressing accelerator. Began running rougher and rougher accompanied by white smoke. Finally quit and would not restart. Cranking easily, tachometer showing RPM during crank. Suspected no fuel getting to fuel bowl. 7) Drained fuel bowl using valve on back of bowl. 8) Turned ignition to "on" to get fuel pump to run 9) removed new filter, no fuel in bowl 10) With fuel filter out of the bowl, removed fuel filter and quickly cycled the ignition to "on" and back off -- no fuel entered the bowl. 11) Removed leads from fuel pump. 12) Checked voltage across leads as ignition cycled to "on": 6.5 volts. 13) Checked fuel pump fuse (20A Maxi fuse in location 112 -- BLOWN!) 14) Replaced fuse, performed voltage test: 11.55 volts 15) Checked battery voltage: 12.44Volts.
So, with all that, how in the world does the fuel pump get 6.5 volts with the fuse blown? I looked closely at the fuse and there was no slag or connection in the element. Today I have pulled the 9-pin and 42-pin connections on the valve covers as well as the connectors to the glow plug relay module (used on Ex's) to inspect wires and connections. All looked fine. I plan to us some LP5 electro contact cleaner to clean all the connections and put some electrical grease on the connections, but the big question is where did that 6.5V come from with the fuse blown. I plan to pull the fuse and do the same test to see if the 6.5V is still there.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Started To Crank And Slowly Started To Whine Down
I turned the key and it started to crank and slowly started to whine down. Tried it a 2 more times and it did the same thing only with less strength and on the third try all I hear is the starter clicking. Both batteries read 12.57 on my multimeter while not cranking. Does this sound like an alternator? All my electronics seem to have plenty of power.
View 14 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: F250 Sputtered And Dies And Will Not Crank Again
Truck sputtered and dies and will not crank again. Changed fuel filters and primed them still won't start. Tried the yellow with blue line wire to battery still will not crank. Checked fuses all are good. Batteries are good.
View 9 RepliesFord - Mountaineer :: 1999 - When Try To Crank Truck Starts And Immediately Dies
When I try to crank the truck , it starts and immediately dies. This happened several times. The last attempt I began patting the accelerator when I turned the key. The truck cranked and I was able to keep it running by feathering the throttle. it ran rough. At higher RPM it ran ok. When I let it idle it idled rough. After engine warmed it idles and runs fine. Engine started without trouble when warm.
View 1 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 2002 - Won't Start / Crank Till Battery Dies But Is Not Getting Fuel
I've got a 2002 Ford Sports Trac that won't start ! It will crank till battery dies but is not getting fuel. I have had it towed 4 times in the past year. of the 4 times,this last time it wont start. Every time that I have had it towed back to my house and dropped in the driveway it has started up with no problems. It will run for a few months or more.This last time it would not.
Could this be an electrical problem.Maybe loose ground somewhere or something else. Would like to rule out some things before investing in a fuel filter or fuel pump. Would hate to buy new FuelPump and that not be the problem. Can't find free wiring diaghrams for this issue.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F250 - Dies Won't Restart / Crank?
It just started to die on him lately. Doesn't matter if he is driving or idling. When it dies doesnt sputter or anything. Won't crank up until next day and if it does start only runs for 5 min or so. Checked ficm 48.5 volts. Ipr while cranking is at 48% icp is about 1200 while cranking. The dash oil pressure or rpm gauge does not move but when I hook up my ids it shows 180 rpm. Changed fuel filters. New oil. Does fill up oil canister if I hold the drane button down. Getting fuel. Thought maybe ipr but thought I would check with you all. Unplugging the icp doesn't work. 03 motor with 180k miles.
View 9 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F350 Dies While Driving Then No Crank
I have a 2005 Ford F-350 with the V10 4x4. I was backing out of the driveway and it just died. I stopped put the truck into park and it wouldn't crank. The dash lights up and everything else works but the truck will not crank. I continued to attempt to start it and eventually it turned over and ran. It has been doing this intermittently for a couple months but never this bad. I've taken it to mechanics and nobody has been able to rectify.
View 3 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - Rough Idle / Dies Warm And Long Crank
My 06 currently has 296k miles. 3 years ago I put a lot into her. Dummy plugs, stand pipes, STC, hg,studs, oil cooler, bpd egr cooler. Cleaned spool valves and fresh o rings in injectors. (Alliant) plus a lot more that I can't remember. Ran very very well after all that.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago. Driving down road and truck died as I let off pedal to slow down for turn onto my road. Took about 7-8 tries to get started back up. Icp was reading in the 300's until it finally started. Made it home. Shut it off. And started right back up.
Few days later truck died again same way. Let off to make a turn. Several attempts to restart icp was in the 300's again. Once it started building 420ish it sounded like it was firing a few injectors and slowly started running. The next time it happened the same way but when I got it back running I eased to my inlaws like less than a mile. When I got to their house and pulled in and went to back up to turn around the display on dash said low oil pressure and started missing a little. So once I got home started researching.
A few days ago I pulled out the low pressure oil regulator to check it out. It was clean but did have some mild scaring. I used some fine scotch rite and smooth it out a a little. It moved freely in the bore so I put it back together. Then pulled the oil filter cap off to check the little black valve. I noticed the filter was not dripping with oil like normally when I change the oil. And yes it's motor craft filter and cap. It checked out ok. Press it down and turned engine over and it filled and held. Let off of it and it drained.
Next I air checked the high pressure side. Applied air and waited until I could hear the air (IPR still open) then closed the IPR. Couldn't hear any leaks. Just a very very minor his and couldn't pin point where. So I went ahead and went to dealer and got new stand pipes and plugs. And ordered new print set for injectors. Pulled injectors and didn't see any smoking guns. Replaced prongs, stand pipe and dummy plugs and put it all back together. Cleaned the injector cups and hold down bolt holes. Torqued injectors to spec.
Got it all done and rotate motor by wire next to heater blower to assist prime system. Tried to start it up and it took two tries but fired right up and sounded smooth as hell. After it idled a few minutes I saw a haze from exhaust. It smelt just like fuel. A few minutes later started idle a little rough. Gave it some go pedel and it was rougher at about 1600-1800rpms and couldn't feel it above 2k. Got my laptop out with AE and done balance test. Did not show anything. No codes either.
Ford Excursion :: Sputters And Dies / No Response When Hit The Gas
Okay so I ran my excursion earlier this morning and it ran fine and what have you, and now 6 hours later I got to start it up and it sputters and dies. I start it again and it starts right up but then goes to sputter again and I hit the gas and it didn't respond, the RPM gauge was lingering just under 500 RPMs. I had to hold the gas pedal for about 15-20 seconds before the engine would rev up, it kept doing this till the engine finally warmed up and I drove it up and down my block with barely and throttle and with wide open throttle and it ran fine. With the engine warmed up it started with no problems. I have a 2000 5.4L V8 gas
View 5 RepliesFord Excursion :: 2000 - Dies In Gear At Idle?
I have a 2000 excursion V10. It will die in gear forward or reverse the overdrive light flashes and cel shows code p0720. I have new plugs and COP on all 10 cylinders. I have replaced the differential speed sensor and the sensor on top of the transmission. I have a basic code reader it shows at the time it dies the vehicle speed is 70 mph while the speedometer shows 0. When I unhook the abs module it still has code p0720 but it does not die. I am replacing the abs module?
View 8 RepliesFord Excursion :: 2010 V10 Dies Quickly After Starting Every Now And Then
I have a 2000 V10 ex. The past couple if days it been giving me some issues while trying to start. At times it will start fine like every truck should, but every now and then I turn the key and it starts to catch but quickly dies. Then it continually turns over. I apply pressure to the gas and it finally catches and runs fine after that. This problem has been getting worse over the past month. Whenever I start it I have to apply gas before turning the key so I know the engine will catch. I've already added fuel treatment and stp to clean fuel pumps but had no luck with that.
View 6 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Engine Started To Crank And Everything Went Dead
I have a 04 heritage f-150, V6 I bought a month ago. Truck ran fine till tonight. Got in to start it, the engine started to crank and everything went dead except for a busing click some what like a turn signal. When I raised the hood the light weakly flashed in time with the buss. I checked the cables, clean and tight. The click came from the #2 ( I think) relay. I wiggled it and it stopped and the lights came back on but when I turned the lights on it all started again. The book says the #2 relay is for the PCM. Don't tell me the computer is out!
View 2 RepliesFord Excursion :: 2002 7.3 4X4 - Runs For 20 Minutes Then Dies And Won't Start
I have a 2002 Excursion 7.3 4x4 and when it will start is runs for about 20 min then turns off. When I go to start the truck again the theft light flashes rapidly and the glow plug light never turns off. I have tried reprogramming the key to the PATS by leaving it turned for 30 minute then turning it back then starting and that worked for a few times but it doesn't anymore. Additionally I used to be able to take the terminals off the batteries for 20 minutes or so and then it would start after re connecting them but now I have to leave the batteries off for like 24 hours then it will start fine 1 time run for 20 minutes and die and won't start all over again.
I have a snap on solus pro I am borrowing to figure it out but am not very familiar with it, I can only find codes P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid circuit (but mine is 4x4) and U1262 data fault for J1850 there is nothing pulling up under the PATS option in the scanner so I don't know whats wrong or where to even begin, it just shuts off.. The truck runs great till it shuts off, buzz test in the scanner doesn't do anything and neither does the glow plug test. When the truck dies is just turns off like someone turned the key off, no running rough or anything first, I am pretty sure the computer is shutting off the injectors and then locking me out.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Truck Would Not Crank After Sitting For Few Days Without Being Started
I am having problems with my 97 F150 6cyl. A couple of months ago, I noticed the truck after sitting for a few days without being started would not crank. After some trial and error, I found that turning the ignition switch on and off several times did the trick and the truck would crank right up. I was thinking this might be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue but, I'm not sure.
A couple of days ago I was going to drive the truck and did the ignition switch deal as usual and the truck cranked up but, there shortly after while just idling the motor died. I have tried and tried to crank it and it want start back. After thinking on it, I don't know if this is a fuel problem or not, or maybe even the ignition box.
Ford Excursion :: O/D Light Flashes / Tranny Shifts Funny Then V10 Dies?
My tranny guy just did a full scan and the ONLY thing which indicated a problem was 'output speed sensor' which we were able to trace back to most likely being caused by a completely hosed driveshaft (I've noticed a driveline vibration). We're going to install a new driveshaft, replace the output speed sensor(s), check for any frayed/chaffed wiring going to the output speed sensor(s) and then see where that leads us (he said something about some computer module in the dash which he's had to replace on several Sooper Dooties).
View 7 RepliesFord Excursion :: Tranny Slipping And Engine Dies When Shift From One Position To Another
2000 X V10 4WD... 178K. Truck was not well maintained for most of it's existence. Drained both the TC and Drain pain and replaced the oil filter. Tranny oil looked like crude and a lot of tiny specs of metal - it shimmered in the sun... needless to say - I'm pretty sure it had never been changed.
Now - issues since I've gotten it done... Tranny has been slipping... I figured that I may not have filled it enough and after adding a few quarts, it seems to have stopped. Slipping was initially just when going from a stop.
Now it's having a problem where the engine dies when I shift from one position to another... For instance - from Park to Reverse, the engine RPMs drop as the clutch engages - but they drop from about 900 RPM down to about 500. And 50/50 chance the engine dies. Going from Park to Drive, the same thing but maybe drops to about 700 RPMs. Tried it in 2nd and 1st gear. Has happened in both. I've tried shifting to OD first before going to 2nd to 1st or vice versa and seems to behave better.
Should I flash the ECU and have it relearn the shift points? Did I overfill? Between the TC and Drain Pan - about 16 qts came out. I've been checking the dipstick - no frothing or bubbles. When running and in park - it actually shows low. Seems to drive fine once it's on the road. The engine cutting off when it's put into gear is really unexpected.