Ford A/C :: 1988 E150 - Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch?
How would I test (if Possible) the A/C Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch on my 88 E-150 4.9L? I had to replace the evaporator, it was leaking along a seam. I have a feeling the Cycling Switch is bad too.
I was hoping for a simple test w/o Gauges. The Switch is in a real tough spot to remove it. I also heard they could be adjusted. There are no leaks in the system and no blockages, that we detected when we evacuated and recharged the system.
Ford - E150 :: 1988 Not Starting And If Start Then Ran Rough?
1988 Ford E-Series Van ford van starting problems I have a 1988 ford van e150 302 that wont start. when it did start, it ran rough, then progress to needing start fluid to start. Now it cranks but wont start at all. it sat for almost a year with additves in gas but it does smell now unlike normal gas. it has sta-bil and gas line anti freeze as additives. A rail mount high pressure pump was put on two years ago. Could the hi-pres pump been installed backwards? Now it will not start even with starting fluid, just cranks and tries(pops and backfires a little sometimes). I towed in to a mechanic to get diagnosed.
In regards to the 1988 ford van start problems, the mechanics said that fuel is bad and needs drained, that in tank pumps seem to have pressure(low pressure pumps). the rail (high press pump) they say tests 15-20 psi only. the want to drain tanks, replace pump and "go from there". They also said a multitude of problems can happen from "bad gas" ranging from injectors needs cleaning to bent push rods, lifters and crank shaft can be damaged. All may need cleaned, fixed or replacing. does this seem a little fishy ? Could it need the timing set? Or injectors bad?
Ford - E150 :: 1993 - Cooling Fan Clutch Too Long / Will Hit Radiator?
I need to replace the fan clutch on my 1993 Ford E150 Club Wagon 4.9L Chateau. The original part, YB466 has been replaced. The new ones are all too long and the fan will hit the radiator. The original is 2-3/8" long front to back, including the nut. The replacement ones available are 2-5/8" or longer. I have talked to our local machinist, and he says the new parts cannot be made shorter. The water pump shaft is not long enough to allow shortening. He says look for a shorter water pump.
View 11 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1988 2WD Dies When Clutch Is Released
My Grandpa has an 88 Ranger 2wd with the 2.9l V6 and a 5 speed, I believe, M5od. I was driving down the highway when I heard a noise. I tried throwing the tranny in neutral but when I pressed the clutch pedal in, I had no pedal whatsoever. Engine took awhile to restart. It'd turn over a little almost as if a rod was bent or something of the sorts. Eventually the engine started and would stay running as long as the clutch was pressed in (disengaged).
The engine dies no matter what range the transmission is in,neutral included unless the clutch pedal is depressed. It Will die when the clutch is released in any gear with no forward movement that is noticeable. I can spin the tail shaft with the driveshaft installed and all gears in neutral but the input does not spin at all. Input shaft wont spin at all, period. I originally thought the slave cylinder was KIA but now I am very confused on what the problem could be? Is there a bearing the input shaft rides on that may of seized?
I pulled the tranny last night and took the top cover off. Yes, I made sure it was in neutral when I removed the cover. I can manually shift the collar to all gears by hand, 5th and reverse included. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place here and where to go from here. I have bought a new clutch assembly and slave cylinder. This truck was bought by my Grandpa brand new in 1988. It has 98,000 miles and everything is original. I did forget to mention that there was very little oil in the trans when I drained it and it appeared to be gear oil vs ATF.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1988 XLT - Windshield Wiper / No Clicking From Relays
I have a 1988 Ranger with the 2.9. 2wd, xlt. It seems that my wipers have no power. I put a test light in the fuse panel where the 6A cb is and no light. To verify I wasn't doing something wrong, I put it in the dome light and tester came on. I tried with the wiper switch on interval, low & hi. I can't seem to find where the power comes from to follow back from the fuse panel. The washer fluid doesn't work either. No clicking from relays or anything.
View 2 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1988 - Clutch Safety Switch Wires Melted
I have an 88 ranger 2.9 manual trans. The clutch safety switch wires melted (red with light blue) 2 come off the ignition, I traced the one to the clutch switch and replaced. My problem is my book says the other goes to " electronic shift control module", I can't find this module and I can't seem to chase wire as it gets lost in wire loom.
View 4 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1988 - Master Cylinder Rod Falling Off Of Clutch Pedal
I have a 88 ranger supercab 2.9l 4x4 with the fm146 trans and recently I have had a problem with my clutch master cylinder rod falling off my clutch pedal. I bought the new bushing and put it on and it was fine until yesterday. It wants to keep coming off. Is there a clip of some sort to hold it on or no. I looked at a few at the salvage yard and they did not have a clip just the bushing. So what do I do?
View 1 RepliesFord Aerostar :: 1988 - Clutch Feel Grabby / Some Sludge Accumulation Between Trans And Engine
I've got an oddball '88 SWB with the M5OD transmission. Since I've had it (about a year now), its always required a lot of gas to get it rolling without it stalling after sitting overnight or during the day at work, especially putting it in reverse for the first time. The shifts have always been a little choppy/jerky/grabby/whatever you want to call it, too. Mostly going into first from a stop, but you can feel it other gears too, especially if you're not flooring it.
Anyway, it seems to have gotten worse and I'm getting to the point where I'm looking at a cause. One thought I had was oil contamination on the clutch discs, I know this will make a clutch feel "grabby". There is some sludge accumulation between the trans and engine, and it appears I may have a very slow leak there.
I have to change the trans fluid this weekend and am wondering if there's anything I should inspect while I'm at it -- I don't know a whole lot about the clutch system on this van and there's next to no information on it. Frankly, I don't even know if its hydraulic or cable.
Volkswagen - Cabrio :: 1988 - Clutch Went Out Now Car Won't Move?
My 88 VW Cabriolet convertible has been having car problems since I got it, 1st the Clutch went out. Then we had the hoses in the engine fixed and a new Alternator. After that 5th and 3rd gear would pop out of it's gear, and that was fine because I could hold it in gear, but now the car can't move, you can turn on the car but you can't get it to move in any direction, the gears make sounds, as if they are moving but the car doesn't move.
View 3 RepliesGmc - Suburban :: 1988 - Loud Clanging Noise When Shifting Gears
Why has my vehicle started making this loud clanging noise when shifting gears? (Automatic) It sounds like someone is hitting a wrench against the metal, most notably between Reverse and Drive. Also, the body of the vehicle is noticeably lower on one side with no flat tires.
View 1 RepliesFord A/C :: 1999 - Clicking And Rough Sounding Noise Coming From Clutch?
I have a 1999 SD V10 with about 133K on it. Runs great to the day. Recently I noticed alot of clicking and rough sounding noise coming from the a/c compressor the other day. Yep I got up underneath it and it look like it's about shot.
My question is : How hard is it to replace the clutch yourself with a new one. Are there any step by step direction here on the ford forums on how to do it. Looks like can just replace the a/c clutch and be good to go. A/C still blows cold air.
I took it to my mechanic the other day and they want $ for a replacement compressor and labor. I'd like to try and avoid that amount for now and just replace the clutch.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Loud Clicking Noise When AC On
This is probably a dumb question but what is going on here:
YouTube.....
This is with the AC running. That wheel spin and loud click (it's a lot louder in person) is starting to annoying me. When I am sitting in traffic or at lights and I have the AC running the noise is very noticible in the cab. If the AC is off the idle settles down and the click goes away. So what causes this - AC compressor going out? It needs lube? Freon?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Compressor Clicking On / Off About Every 5 Seconds - Clutch Smell
On 2500 mile trip, no A/C last 400 miles and we're cooking
Compressor clicking on/off about every 5 secs, clutch smell. Seems to be turning okay.
I brought some tools, including a full socket set.
Can I pull the clutch and remove shims in the campground? Looking for a condensed version of how?
Worst case, how do I replace the clutch- of I can find a dealer with one?
Pulley and clutch fixed, but cycling on and off...adding freon?
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: AC Stopped Blowing Cold / Clutch Clicking On And Off
2002 F350 with V10. A/C stopped blowing cold. I can hear the clutch clicking on and off, so probably needs refrigerant? Other thing is that with A/C off, the temp control turned to cold, and fan on, it blows hot air. On my other vehicles with A/C off and temp turned to cold, I get outside air at ambient temp.
I removed the cover off the evap core under the dash and observed the blend door opening and closing as the temp selector is moved. The duct door moves correctly, so am I'm missing something? Is the Ford system such that ambient air is always heated? This happens even in cold temp conditions.
Ford - Mustang :: 2003 - Loud Clicking Noise Under The Hood
My 2003 Mustang convertible (6cyl) has recently started making a loud clicking noise under the hood that seems to come on after driving in stop-and-go traffic or when turning on the a/c. I don't notice it when driving on the highway at a relatively steady speed. The clicking will continue for a minute or so and then stop for a while. I had also noticed a strange melting plastic or chemical smell coming from under the hood whenever clicking has happened. I had also noticed a couple weeks ago that at stop lights, the a/c was blowing warm air even when on the coldest setting. The air would then become cold again after driving for about a minute. What could this problem (or problems) be and can I fix it (or them) myself?
View 2 RepliesFord Excursion :: 2001 - Really Loud Clicking Noise And Won't Start
I have an 01 Excursion. I tried to start it this morning and the radio and lights came on, but all it would do is make a really loud clicking noise. If the battery was dead would the lights come on? My friend who picked me up to take me to work also told me my battery connections needed cleaned...
View 7 RepliesFord - Mustang :: Loud Clicking Sound - Blown Spark Plug
My son has a 03 mustang GT. He called and said it was making a loud clicking sound. I investigated and it appeared to have a exhaust leak, but I couldn't feel where it was coming from. I started tearing down until I got to the plugs. One of them blew out if the head. I was shocked. Have you heard of this in a car? I'd heard the Ford trucks had problems with the plugs blowing out. Its fixed and running like a champ now.
View 14 RepliesFord Transmission :: 1971 F250 - Loud Whirring Noise When Clutch Engages
I own a 1971 Ford F-250 Custom with the 4 Speed Synchronized Warner T-18 transmission. When I put in the clutch, once it engages, it makes a very loud whirring noise. I'm not concerned about the noise as much as possible issues with the transmission itself.
View 1 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: Steering Makes Loud Clicking Noise While Driving?
About 3 weeks ago, I noticed the SUV would occasional make a loud "CLICK" sound in the front steering area, usually if I made a fast turn motion (either left or right).
So today I put it up on a ramp and took a look and it's obvious there's a part in there that is coming loose. I don't know what the names of the stuff is in there, so I'm posting a photo with arrows & letters so people can tell me what's what, and also what to do.
I tried putting a vise grip on it and tightening it with a ratchet wrench on the top part (16mm), but the lower nut just spins. I decided to not go any further because I really don't know what that assembly is, what it does, if it's broke, etc.