Ford - F150 :: 2004 - Cylinder 5 And 6 Misfires?
I have a 2004 f-150 5.4 Trition v8 and recently i had misfires on 5 and 6 come up. After I changed out the coils and injectors on all the cylinders the misfire would still come up.
View 4 RepliesFord - F150 :: 1992 - Gas Flooded Engine / Hard To Start
Subject : Vehicle 1992 Ford Truck F-150 300cu. inch
Problem : Electrical
Description : Engine would stop running and as long the key switch was in the on position the electrical fuel pump would keep running and the end result would be a gas flooded engine. There was no way to predict when or where this occurrence would happen. It may be at a busy intersection or immediately after start up in the early morning. It may do this two or three times a week and then go a month without doing this, just about the time I thought everything was alright it would start up again.
I used just about every mechanic I could think of to diagnosis the problem. The fuel pressure switches were changed, map sensor, computer board, new distributor coil and module.A new alternator was also put on the truck to no avail.This truck was taken to a ford dealer garage. In my mind this would the the "Mayo clinical" for a sick Ford vehicle. The truck stayed there for about two weeks and left with the same problem it had arrived with.
Not long afterwards it came into my mind to install a new Ignition coil . That fixed the problem ! The truck ran good for about three months and then started the same thing again. I knew I was on top of the problem. I then put an old used Ignition coil on and it lasted about two weeks. Again resulting in the same problem. I then bought an expensive coil made in the USA "Blue Streak Brand". That has been about 5 years ago. The truck has never caused me any problems since.
Golf/GTI VI :: Noticed A Series Of Misfires
Yesterday it was the coldest day my car has ever experienced at -27*C or -16F. I only live about 10 minutes from work in stop and go traffic so the car barely reached operating temp as I was arriving to work.
After about 10 hours, I went outside at the end of the day, the temps had warmed slightly and I started the car and let it idle for about 1 minute before driving off. After about 45 seconds I got a series of what seemed to be misfires. The EPC light flashed but eventually turned off, and where the odometer normally appears there was an exclamation point next to a symbol that looked like cruise had been activated. A message appeared in the MFD to the effect of "malfunction - bring car for service"
I reved the car slightly a few times-all seemed good- and left. All was good. Stopped the car a few blocks after and restarted and the warning symbol was gone and all was back to normal.
Today has been warmer and there have been no issues with it.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1997 4WD - Cylinder Misfires On 4 And 6
Besides being spark plugs and wires and/or a bad coil pack, what other things could make it so i have misfires on cylinders 4 and 6? going to replace the plugs and wires later today when they get to my house but i just want to know what other things i could be so I can evaluate the potential repair cost and should the wires for cylinders 4,5, and 6 be under or over the intake manifold? I bought my truck used and they are currently under the manifold i think it would make more sense to have them over personally.
I have a 1997 Ranger 4WD with the 6 cylinder 4.0L engine. I can't remember the codes that it tripped at the moment but i think one might have been the 304 code not sure though.
I tripped the 300,304, and 306 code but don't know about any others i remembered what codes i tripped the other day when i had it scanned
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1997 - No Power - Detonation - Misfires?
Posting this on behalf a friend. He has a '97 Ranger 2.3, 5 speed, 2WD, no A/C or power steering. No trouble codes.
The Problems:
It has an erratic random misfire at idle. Just runs very rough at idle. The misfiring goes away once the engine speed is up.
It has absolutely no power while driving, it's foot the floor all the time. On a straight piece of road it will top out at around 65-70 MPH. Above ~2700 RPM or so and it will start getting severe detonation, by 4000 it's really bad.
Along with the no power issue, it also does not like to rev. 4300-4500 RPM is about the end of the world for this thing, and it really does not want to spin any faster in any gear. It just stops pulling.
What we've done and checked: Complete tune up, 8 new spark plugs, 8 new wires, new fuel filter and cleaned the MAF. Fuel pressure seemed a couple PSI low, so the regulator was changed out as well. No change in operation.
We have access to a scan tool with live data, so I checked some things out:
The O2 sensor reports a rich condition while wide open throughout the entire RPM range, so it's not a fuel delivery problem.
Fuel trims are normal, +/- 5-7% or so.
Calculated load was at 100%, pretty much from idle to 4500 RPM while wide open. This is very odd, as it usually takes a very high-strung N/A engine to hit 100% load at any RPM, let alone the entire RPM range.
Other things we've done:
We checked the reported ignition timing advance on the scan tool to the actual timing with a timing light, and it matched up perfectly, so no issues there.
However, I noticed that the timing light was flashing erratically at idle, and behaved slightly differently when clipped to the rear coil pack vs the front. Once the revs were up, the timing light flashed in a consistent manner.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Hard To Get Out Of 2nd Gear / Engine Surges Then Starts To Lose Power
My surging/running down issue has returned on my '86 2.3l Ranger. I thought it was electrical, when things improved with the new ignition switch, but lately it's hard to get out of 2nd gear before the engine surges then starts to lose power. a poke of the gas pedal starts the who cycle over again. I pulled codes but it's hard to tell what the reader is saying either 33 and 34 or 334. The good thing is all the codes point to the EGR system. Looking for a diagnosis tree to determine if the valve is bad or the sensor is shot? They are both not cheap so I don't want to just throw parts at the problem.
View 14 RepliesFord F-150 (2009-2014) :: How To Diagnose Or Check Operation Of IWE
Picked up a very used truck this week to use for occasional towing. it's a 2009 F150 Suercrew 157" WB 5.4L V8 4x4.
Backing into a muddy parking spot, in 4H, had some binding in the front while turning.
Haven't seen other issues, but this reminds me of a problem I had many years ago in a different truck that turned out to be a problem with the IWE system.
How would I test this system for correct function?
F Series :: 87 F150 5.0 - No Spark From Coil
Here we go again. shut my 87 F150 5.0 off when I got to work when it was time to leave no spark from the coil, same as 3 weeks ago. First thing I did was pull the new dist and replace it nothing, so I pulled out the new coil still nothing, its getting power to the coil so I would assume the relay is good .
View 4 RepliesF Series :: Oil Pan Gasket On 97 F150 With 4.6L And 4R70W
What does it take to pull the oil pan on a '97 F150 w/ 4.6L and 4R70W? I checked into Auto Zone's repair support and it states to just unbolt it from the block and remove it. I looked under the truck and it doesn't appear that there is sufficient clearance to remove the pan without raising the engine/trans.
View 2 RepliesPrius (2001-03) :: Way To Diagnose P3009 Error Code Source
The first step is to clear the P3009 trouble code by unhooking the 12V battery for a moment or using a code reader. Now turn the key on/ but NOT start/ready mode, wait 30 seconds and if the code comes back, the leak is in the battery case. If the code does not return, turn key to start to "ready mode" and immediately shift to neutral and stay this mode for 30 seconds. If the code returns, the leak is in the power cables or inverter. If the code did not set, shift to drive and if the code appears now (can take up to a minute or so), the leak is in the transaxle. This is something that can be done in a few minutes without a scan tool or "megger" while never removing any components and not leaving the driver seat.
Ideally you want 3009 in battery case. That might be fixable without buying anything, just take apart battery and clean bus bars etc. If your bus bars are really "gooey", new ones are available from the dealer for a couple hundred bucks. Inverter is harder to replace, transaxle is the hardest.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: How To Diagnose And Replace A Bent Push Rod
I had an huge amount of work done to my 2004 Excursion (early model 6.0) earlier this year. ARP studs, new HPOP, ICP, IPR, Ford lifters, Ford push rods, EGR delete, Bulletproof remote oil cooler and filter, EBP sensor and tube, Ford head gaskets, and a bunch of other stuff including eventually a new FICM (not Ford) and a new 140 Amp alternator.
My problem is it sounds to me like some sort of metallic tapping is going on and it doesn't feel as smooth as I would expect -- like a very soft miss. Currently the tech says that there are no "low contributing cylinders". I am wondering if there may be a slightly bent push rod? He is adamant that a bent push rod won't stay where it is supposed to -- I say it depends on how bent it is. I am also worried that a rocker arm may be bent or deformed in some way.
My question is this; Once the valve covers come off -- if nothing looks wildly wrong, where do I begin to confirm that I do not have bent push rods or damaged rocker arms? He says that in order to check the push rods we would have to remove head bolts off of the rocker arms (I think I have that right). But he said we run the risk of compromising the head gaskets if we touch anything like that. If we have to remove head bolts (stud nuts for me?) can you take one rocker arm loose, check that rocker arm and push rod, and put it back together safely? Without having to pull it all the way down and put new head gaskets, etc? That would mean releasing the clamping pressure across both heads at each rocker arm -- is that creating the potential for blown head gaskets?
I know in my youth we would roll push rods on a sheet of glass (12" X 12") because glass is supposed to be flat -- can't bend it or deform it without breaking it first. I assume that still works. I now have a Scan Gauge II but it is not set up yet to check all of the readings for the sensors. I also believe I need to check for leaks with simple green and to make sure I don't have any exhaust leaks. But what about the push rod/rocker arm question? Is there another way to verify integrity?
F Series :: 2000 F150 5.4 Motor Has A Little Miss After It Warms Up
M y 2000 F150 5.4 motor has a little miss but only after it warms up It does not show up on the code reader . Right before this the #2 coil went out so I changed it .
View 3 RepliesF Series :: 1997 F150 Wipers Won't Stop When Started Up
I have a 1997 F150 4x4 that the wipers just started going one day when I started it up and won't stop. I replaced the turn signal/multifunction switch and the wiper motor but still same problem. I have heard it is possibly defective GEM.
View 2 RepliesF Series :: 2004 F150 ABS Kicks In At Low Speed When Hit Brakes
My supercab 2WD has about 100,000 miles on it. When I hit the brakes, the ABS kicks in at low speed (less than 10 mph) even though the tires are not slipping.
View 1 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F250 - How To Diagnose Misfire With No CEL
How to diagnose misfire with no CEL? 2001 F250 5.4. What could cause it?
View 13 RepliesF Series :: 1995 F150 Manual Locking Hubs Won't Engage
Have a 1995 F150 with 83k with manual locking hubs. Haven't used them in almost a year. Today turned them to LOCK, normally very stiff, but this time easily turned with two fingers. Front wheels would not engage. Local mechanic put it on a lift, manually switched each hub from LOCK to FREE several times and they work fine now.
View 2 RepliesF Series :: 1989 F150 - Dual Tank Stalls And Getting No Fuel
I have a 89 F150 4x4 lariat with the 302 8cyl and dual gas tanks. I was driving to work and the truck died. I have spark and enough juice to turn it over so I must be getting no fuel. When I turn the key to the on position I do not hear the fuel pump whine as it primes, it's dead silent. I'm assuming the fuel pump is dead.
Are there any fuses to check? I did check the switch that goes off when in an impact and it was not tripped off so it's not the problem.
My hayes manual (which i find is wrong ALOT) says that 87-89 f150's have a single fuel pump that is external to the tanks and found along the left frame rail? Can anyone confirm? Someone told me they thought it might have 2 pumps but I switched tanks and the truck still didn't start (or make a fuel pump sound) so unless the planets aligned and BOTH pumps blew simultaneously I would assume there's only 1 pump.
F Series :: F150 4.2l V6 With Code P1518 - How To Reach Valves Of Bank 1
Truck was running fine all day then as I pulled into the driveway the service engine light came on. Did a scan and code says , intake manifold runner stuck open bank 1. I was told they are at the back of the manifold but I can't even get a mirror in that tiny space. What is involved in reaching these two valves and how do I know which is bank 1?
View 1 RepliesF Series :: 1990 F150 Blowing F1 Fuse - ABS Light In Dash Comes On
My 1990 F150 blows the F1 fuse after driven a short distance. When the fuse blows the ABS light in the dash comes on.
View 2 Replies