Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Engine Missing When Put It In Gear
Our Hyundai Elantra starts up and idols like a dream, but when you put it in gear the engine misses so bad it doesn't want to go. What could be the problem that is causing it to do this?
View 5 RepliesElantra MD (2010-15) :: Road Noise - Intermittent Vibration At Idle
4 cylinder car engine that doesn't shake like a tractor at idle ? I've got a 3 cylinder tractor that idles smoother.
I like my Elantra except for the tire/road noise and the intermittent BAD vibration at idle. It shakes the whole car. Odd that it doesn't do it all the time. AC seems to make it worse......sometimes. I think I can fix the road noise with different tires but fear that the dealer is going to say:" Nothing wrong. They all shake like that at idle."
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Power Loss - Vibration / Missing When Idle
My father owns a 2003 Santa Fe GLS with the 2WD 2.7L V6 engine.
Recently it has been having lots of power loss issues. It vibrates/misses when idling, if you put your foot down on the gas pedal, whether under load or not, it sometimes stalls or just sits there. We took it to Hyundai, and they had no error codes. They charged us $150 to tell us nothing is wrong with it, when clearly something is. The car has become downright dangerous to drive because it cannot make it up hills without stalling/losing power.
The most recent thing we had done to it was the wires/spark plugs changed, which I think was at 65k on the odometer?
Prius (2001-03) :: Missing At Times When Idle And Lower RPMs - Whole Car Shaking
Car misses horrible at times at idle and lower RPM's, shakes the whole car. MPG around 32. Runs better when car is fully warmed up. PO171 and PO 300, 301 and 304 codes come up.
Here's what I've done so far to try to correct the problem:
Cleaned mass air flow sensor. No change.
Replaced mass air flow sensor. No change.
Replaced plugs and ignitors (coils). No change.
Replaced PCV valve. No change.
Replaced upstream O2 sensor. Same codes come up but MPG increased to 37.
Replaced throttle body. No change.
Car does not miss when accelerating hard. Sometimes runs perfect at idle and lower rpm's, but mpg is way low as it used to be in the 50's or higher. Car idles perfect in neutral. Always runs perfect the first 3-4 seconds when you first start it, then starts shaking. If I put my finger in the throttle body when it's running poorly, apparently disrupting the air flow a bit, the idle smooths to perfect.
I have an extra computer, although I don't know if you have to program the key for it to work. I don't suspect this is the problem anyway. I haven't changed the fuel injectors. I can't hear a vacuum leak.
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Slight Missing At Idle That Occurs All The Time
I will occasionally get a misfire after a rain storm, lasts about ten minutes then goes away. there is also a slight miss (no CEL) at idle, that occurs all the time. I'm thinking spark plug wires.... the plugs were done last year, but nothing else. to my knowledge the wires and coil packs are all original. i'm at about 114K on a 2004 santa fe 3.5l.
Also, does the computer store misfire codes? I know I got them in the past and i checked it at the time, but didn't write down what cylinder it was. think it'll still be in memory?
Think it's ok to change just the wires and not the coil packs? kind of on a budget...
Hyundai - Elantra :: 2002 - Rough Idle And Misfire When Hot / Intermittent Hesitation When Accelerating
2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Intermittent Drop In The Idle From 700 To About 500 RPM
I have a 2001 F150 with the 4.6 engine. I get an intermittent drop in the idle from 700 RPM to about 500 RPM. The computer catches it quickly and brings the idle back up. It might drop several times and clear up or it might not happen at all. Seems only to happen on a hot engine, never when cold and in gear, if in park or neutral seems to idle ok. Changed the idle air control valve but no different. Runs fine except for the idle dropping when stopped.
Never get a check engine light, and no codes from the computer when I had it checked. Could this be the vapor management valve turning on?
Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2003 - Intermittent Check Engine Light And Error Code P0113
I have a 2003 Elantra GLS. I am intermittently Check Engine light and error code is P0113 - Air Intake sensor issue. I can't locate where the sensor is. I don't see any wire coming of the tubing that connects the air filter to the engine.
View 18 RepliesElantra XD (2001-06) :: Idle Will Bounce From 1.5k To 3k Exactly
So this problem came about after I changed the timing belt on my wife's 05' elantra.
The idle will bounce from 1.5k to 3k exactly and continue this for as long as the car is on. Some times it will stay at some point within that range for around 2 seconds then continue to bounce.
I checked the belt today, and it seems to be tight enough but not to loose either...maybe I screwed the timing up? But would that cause this problem?
Here is what I have done:
Replaced the IAC valve
Cleaned the MAP sensor (no MAF sensor on this engine, that I know of...)
Checked and cleaned the spark plugs
Cleaned all electrical terminals
Checked the resistance in the throttle control sensor
Checked for vaccum leaks with carb cleaner
Cleaned PCV valve (3 times)
Replaced Air filter
Probably a few things I am missing in there, but nothing has been a success.
Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Won't Idle Down Below 1500 Rpm
02 elantra 138418 miles. Before I cleaned throttle body engine idled fine, but know I can't get engine to idle below 1500 rpm, check engine lite is on, went to advance auto parts, he pulled code, he said idle air control stuck, i am hoping there is something i can do before spending $ and replacing it.
View 6 RepliesElantra XD (2001-06) :: New IAC And Idle At 3000 RPM
New iac and now runs at 3000, replaced iac, input shft speed sensor,and #3 fuel inlector because of codes. Have factory shop manual. Old iac had higher than factory ohm resistance by 5 ohms on each test of terminals 1 and 2 and then on 2 and 3. new iac [wells] is 4 ohms higher on both tests . Old iac ran at 1200 rpm new at 3000 rpm. tps is smooth on resistance test so assume it is ok. Blocked off all hoses to intake manifold to check for open pcv or evap. valve but still the same. 2001 elantra gls is giving me a fit. soft reset of ecm did nothing. Pulling pigtail on iac will drop rpm's to about 1100 but runs rough.
View 8 RepliesElantra XD (2001-06) :: No Heat Or AC At Idle
2004 Elantra - 65,000 miles: Heat and AC works fine when vehicle is moving. At idle or parked it just blows air.
View 2 RepliesElantra XD (2001-06) :: Rough Idle Stop For A While?
I have 2005 elantra ve and I got rough idle stop for a while.
View 12 RepliesElantra XD (2001-06) :: Won't Idle When Cold / Will Stall
My 05 Elantra 2.0, 5 speed won't idle when cold til I drive it a few hundred feet. It will stall. Only then will the idle rise to what it's supposed to be. Is there some sort of cold idle sensor/module that needs replacing?
View 2 RepliesCavalier :: 1995 - Intermittent Chugging / Missing
1995 Cav 2.2 5spd 180,000km
Intermittent 'chugging'. Usually the car is fine for about 2-5 minutes after a cold start, then starts chugging for the rest of the drive. Almost feels like someone is depressing the accelerator pedal and releasing quickly when accelerating. When maintaining speed it still chugs and feels like it is missing. When coasting down it smooths out. Also sounds rough at idle. It is not a clutch problem as clutch seems to work fine, no slipping (under hard acceleration before chugging starts).
I've changed the plugs, replaced the fuel filter, and even tried unplugging the EGR vacuum hose (someone suggested this tactic once) . Been thru several tanks of gas, and injector cleaner.
My next guess is to replace the O2 sensor.... But where it is???, and how to?
Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Deep Rattling Sound Along With Very Low Idle
When I am driving my elantra (engine warm), say I pull up to a red light or I am in a 'drive thru' my RPM's will go to under 500 and normally go under 400 which causes the whole car to shake and sound like it will stall. The car also has the issue with the Air Conditioning on that makes the vehicle have a deep rattling sound along with the very low idle which follows with my lights dimming or lightly flickering.
Milage: 177,000
Current Codes:
P0422 (catalyst 2 efficiency below threshold bank 1)
U0D00 (What that is)
Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2004 - AC Only Works At Idle And Low Speed?
As the title says the 2004 Elantra only has a/c at idle and low speed. It started with the a/c stopping, and a mechanic gave me as story about the wiring going to the compressor being faulty. He jumped a wire from the drivers side fan to the compressor. It turned on the compressor and I had cold air again. or so i thought.
Now, it's cold at idle or slow around town stuff, but as soon as I get on the highway it stops working and blows outside temp air. Is it the compressor? If not, I wondered if the fan (drivers side) is turning at highway speeds and not back on till I stop.
Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2003 - Rough / Jerks At Idle
Below is a link to a video showing what my 2003 Hyundai Elantra is doing. It is idling very rough (Jerks at idle) and can actually be heard in the exhaust. I think it may be miss firing?? Does not do it at speeds over 60. Under 60 it can be felt at times, but only at low RPMs. [URL] ....
View 16 RepliesElantra XD (2001-06) :: 2004 - AC Not Blowing Cold At Idle
04 Elantra GLS, AC works great and is icy cold at higher RPMs but gets hot when stopped at idle or driving low speed. Fan works, refrigerant level is correct. At low idle speeds the compressor just shuts off. A few minutes later or if the engine speed picks up it will engage and start cooling again. AC tech didn't think it was the compressor since the pressure difference between the high and low sides was in the correct range. Has this issue fixed by replacing the pressure sensor/switch on the high pressure side? It doesn't look like there is a low pressure side sensor that I can see.
View 2 Replies