Ford - Windstar :: 1998 - Transmission Failed Sometimes

The transmission in our '98 Ford Windstar has failed....sometimes. I went to back it out of the garage and the motor would rev, but no movement of the vehicle. I put it in drive and had the same results. When I put it in 2 it would move. Only in 1 or reverse is it dead. I changed the transmission fluid and filter (Fluid did not looked burned) and it ran fine. After a couple of days, same symptoms. After sitting about a week, I started it up and it acted fine. I drove it about a block. When I attempted to start from a stop sign...no movement. I put it in 2 and drove away.

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Saturn - SL2 :: Clutch Pedal Goes To The Floor With No Resistance - Hydraulic System Failed

I have a 2001 Saturn SL2, with a manual transmission. The clutch pedal recently gave up -- it goes to the floor with no resistance, and I can't shift. I understand that this car has a hydraulic clutch, and that the hydraulic system has failed. My mechanic says the whole transmission system should be replaced, (though he hasn't been able to look at the car 'cause it's stuck in my driveway!) Before I donate the car to charity, could the problem be anything simpler? Or is it a straight forward diagnosis?

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Ford - Focus :: 2014 - Wheel Bearing And CV Joint Failed Immediately After Clutch Replacement

My question is what could cause a wheel bearing and CV joint to fail immediately after a clutch replacement and a general inspection?So I brought my 2014 focus with under 50000 miles in due to the normal transmission issues with clutch chatter and hesitation. Also asked them to do a general inspection to come current on my warranty requirements and address a feeling of the car feeling lose into turns sometimes (I thought maybe it is just me getting used to going to summer tires from winter). So they rebuild the clutch and i finally get my car back four days later with a clean bill of health and them unable to recreate the lose sensation in the steering during a test drive.

So fast forward four five days and under 200 miles driven and I had a rapid failure of my front driver side wheel bearing and cv joint. It was fine the day before then after 20 miles of driving it felt like it was about to go. So this is everything I noticed about my car after I got it back:Transmission felt great. No chatter and fast to respond. When I would turn into a parking spot or pull out of one I would sometimes here a clunk (that had never happened before) Drove fine. It rained the day before the failure (not sure if that could contribute) but when I got on the road the next day the wheel went bad very very fast and the rubbing became so severe I limped to the nearest cellphone reception. A 79mile tow later I am back at the dealership who replaced that the wheel bearing and CV. (my car is actually back there right now because they left a bungee cord attached to the coil and it started to make the clicking rubbing noise so I called them to tow it).

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GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: 2002 - Check Engine Light Came On / Failed Clutch Vacuum Vent Valve Switch

I have an 2002 Volkswagen GTi 337 edition with the 1.8t engine in it. My check engine light came on so I went to my local autozone to check the code and that's what code it threw on the ODBII sensor. It says my problem could be a "failed clutch vacuum vent valve switch". It also revs about 100-200 rpms extra in between shifts and I'm not a mechanic but know a little about cars. I just don't know if I should replace the OEM clutch safety switch or what I should do about this.

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Camry :: 2003 Drive Line Vibration After A New Clutch Was Put In

Wondering what could cause a driveline vibration after a new clutch was put in at 136,000 by a repair shop.. The vibration was not there before, could the halfshafts or the motor mounts ,engine brackets if not installed exactly as before cause this, am bringing back to shop to get this corrected.

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Jeep - Wrangler :: 1989 - Hydraulic Clutch Bleeder Line Leaking

I have a '89 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L with the AX5 transmission. I noticed over time I had to push the clutch pedal down more to make it work. I checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir and it was empty. I filled it but the pedal had no pressure. I looked at bleed the line protruding out from the clutch housing and noticed a fluid trail on it and inside the clutch housing. The rubber insulator at the opening was missing and suspect corrosion and any movement on the line cracked it where it connects inside. I am ready to junk this vehicle because it is rusted pretty bad, but thought I'd ask before I do.

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Regal :: 1998 - ABS Unit To Brake Line Fitting?

I would like to replace the brake line to the rear brakes, and I noticed that the brake line-to-ABS unit fittings have different threads. I already replaced the line to the Left-Rear brake, and it had a fitting with a thread M10-1.0. I tried to replace the line to the Right-Rear brake using a similar fitting M10-1.0, but it did not work. I just damaged the thread on the brake line fitting itself. Then I noticed that the thread on the current Right-Rear fitting is different. what that thread size should be (the fitting to the Right-Rear brake line)?

It is 98 Regal LS 3800 engine.

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Ford - Escort :: 1998 - Metal To Rubber Gas Line

98 Ford Escort SE... Was changing out fuel filter and noticed the bottom (filter sets upright) snap holder the broke. Would I be ok with just cutting off some of the metal line and adding flex/rubber and using clamps?

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Chevrolet S-10 :: Rats Ate Vacuum Line

6 cyl. vortac engine, air, 4WD utility model. The HVAC controls quit working and I just drove it - then after a few months the heater core started leaking. I had to fix that. While I was under the dash getting ready to put the new core in, I spotted a T in a vacuum line that went to an actuator on the passenger kick panel, the line to the actuator was intact. But the T went about 6 inches then thru a rubber plug (round with a cone shape on one side) hanging in space and about an inch on the side that was cone shaped the end had been chewed off.

Perhaps that is why the HVAC control quit? No other line can I find that it connected to. I have not been able to locate a vacuum diagram on the 'net. Or even find a hole somewhere within range that it might have passed thru originally. Much less the other end of the line, I guess the rats took it with 'em? where this line connects? or have a diagram??

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: New Clutch Kit - Hydraulic Line Will Not Connect Into Slave Cylinder

I put a new clutch kit in my 99 f-150 with the 4.6. It came with the clutch disk,pressure plate and throw out bearing. I got the tranny back up in but now my Hydraulic line will not connect into the slave cylinder. Its still the same one that was in it.

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Century :: 1998 Buick - Accessory Vacuum Line Cause Misfire?

My car has been missing after a recent spark plug change, so i did a smoke test and i see smoke coming from under the air cleaner and i see that the accessory vacuum line goes under there, could this be the cause of the misfire? i already checked all the sparkplug work and wires. and if this could be the problem how would i get to it 1998 Buick century 3.1.

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Ford - Explorer :: 1998 - Vacuum Line Missing On The Top Of Intake

I have a vacuum line missing on the top of intake its a 98 explorer 4.0 sohc. I don't know where it goes...

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Cannot Get The Trans To Line Back Up After Clutch Replacement

I pulled the trans to replace the clutch and now I cannot get the trans to line back up! I am using a trans jack then two floor jacks with a 4x4 across them to support the transfer case. I am about four inches from the block and either side is either 2 inches high or low. The truck is 1999 f250 7.3 4wd.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - Vacuum Line Hanging Under Truck?

I noticed a vacuum line hanging under my 98 F 150 4x4 I traced it out to my front axle question is where does the other end go I have looked but no luck to where it goes.

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Ford - Explorer :: 1998 - Fuel Vapor Line Connection Broken At Tank?

1998 Explorer. The fuel pump went out so today I dropped the tank to replace it. I got the 2 fuel lines off and the 2 electrical connections off with no problems but when I went to try and take the vapor line off, the tabs on the connector were brittle and broke. Now I am stuck not being able to put everything back together since that line wont lock on. I was wondering if anything I can do.

I have tried looking online to no avail except for one site selling ford part that has this line for almost 300 dollars. It is just a plastic line that leads to a metal line. Even the Ford Parts site doesn't carry it! That's insane! I was thinking of cutting the plastic line off where it meets the metal line and using rubber fuel line with hose clamps on the line and the plastic fitting on the tank. I just dont know if this will be good enough.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 F250 - Front Axle Stuck Locked In And Drive-line Shaking

I have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.

One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.

Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?

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Celica :: 1998 GT Manual Clutch Just Went Completely Soft

I'm a fairly new owner, and the 89 gt I just bought came in very good shape. Yesterday the manual clutch just went completely soft. I felt this for about a week when I first purchased it, but only in first gear and it worked itself out and hadn't recurred since then. Now the clutch will not disengage. Gears move well when the car is off though. I noticed the clutch fluid was totally empty when I looked under the hood yesterday. Is this indicative of a bad master or slave cylinder? Or do I just need to bleed and refill the fluid? I love driving this car and want to again soon.

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Honda - Prelude :: 1998 - Clutch Is Grabbing Very Low And It Does Not Slip

I am purchasing a car on eBay which was stated to have the following problem: "the clutch is grabbing very very low it does not slip i think it is just the hydraulics? ". When I asked if I would need to have it serviced in order to drive it 1500 miles back home ( which in my mind meant an oil change), their response was that I would need to have the master cylinder replaced in order to drive it that far...

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Dodge - Ram :: 1998 - Brake Pedal Would Not Disengage The Clutch

My clutch went out on my 98 Dodge Ram 2500 4WD the other day. I limped it home shifting like a big truck timing the shifts w/out the clutch. I replaced the slave cylinder w/ an aftermarket that had a bleeder. Bled it and got the pedal back up and it still wouldn't disengage the clutch. I replaced the master cylinder and started getting pedal back until I let the reservoir get too low and now after plenty of tries, I can't get any pressure built. I get a stream of fluid, but no air. Bench bleed the master and start over? I'm at a loss.

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