Chevrolet - S-10 :: 1997 - While Disengage The Clutch RPMs Rev Out Of Control
I have a 1997b Chevy S10 ZR2. When I disengage the clutch the RPMs rev out of control, I shut the truck off and restart it, sometimes this works till the next shift. It used to be only when I would come to a complete stop now it is every time I shift... I have my 1 year old granddaughter and this is unsafe to drive with her and I am at a loss... replaced complete clutch assembly just a year ago and as it is when disengaged not clutch??
View 11 RepliesChevrolet - 1500 :: Running Hot / Temp Quickly Rises To About 250 Degrees When Driving
I have a 1992 Chevy 1500 5.7L V8 with 167,000 miles that is running hot. When I drive the vehicle the temperature quickly rises to just about 250 degrees and hovers just under the "red" zone. It never fully overheats, even on longer drives (50+ miles). It seem to run just fine otherwise. It is not leaking coolant and I have not had to fill the radiator. My first thought was that the thermostat was bad, but wouldn't that be an "all or nothing" issue? Where should I start looking for the problem? It has been going on for about 3 weeks, and I want to get it resolved quickly.
View 10 RepliesChevrolet - 1500 :: 2001 Acts Like Running Out Of Fuel When Gas Tank Is Over Half Full
I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado with the 4.8L V-8 engine. It acts like it is running out of gas ( the gas tank is over half full). The truck has sat for about 6 months in this condition without being started here in Sacramento, CA. I then replaced the fuel filter and for a few minutes it started and the engine ran fine (without actually driving it). A few days later I started it again and it now again acts like it has fuel starvation, it will rev up briefly then act like it is running out of fuel. I know the fuel pumps are the Achilles Heel of these trucks, but before I try changing it I was wondering if there might perhaps be another problem such as the new fuel filter plugging up quickly or possibly an electrical problem. I've always heard these fuel pumps either work or they don't work, nothing in between. This problem is intermittent but big enough the truck is not driveable. Is there any way to get a good take on the problem before diving into the fuel pump replacement and hoping that solves the problem ?
View 5 RepliesChevrolet - 1500 :: 1990 - Running Rough / Hesitating / Lurching And Not Accelerating Smoothly
My 1990 Chevy Silverado with 5.0 liter, 45k miles has started a problem that the guys in my diesel repair shop don't know what to do. Last week it started to run rough, hesitating and lurching and not accelerating smoothly. It idles fine, or pretty well, but just doesn't run smoothly with any kind of acceleration. I drive it back and forth to work just 1.5 miles during the week. I took it on vacation a week before, so it's not from lack of long trips, it ran fine.
A guy at my diesel repair shop put it on his Genesis scope and all it would code is the O2 sensor showed lean, but we could see it switching from rich to lean and so on. I thought vacuum leak, but couldn't find one. PCV valve is good. EGR valve is ok. I changed the fuel filter yesterday and thought it ran a little better, but now has gone back to the rough running. What I can do myself to diagnose this? I do have all the tools and shop.
Chevrolet - 1500 :: Engine Surges When In Park
My 1992 Chevy truck started surging or revving up when in park. It will tac to 1000 rpm's then go back down - up and down. It won't barely drive down the road. Didn't know if this is a fuel pump problem or something more serious. We've replace several parts that were described on the internet as "could be the problem", but nothing has worked.
View 2 RepliesChevrolet - 1500 :: 1999 - Engine Just Died When Driving At About 40 Mph
1999 Chevrolet Silverado 4.3 ltr ....
I was riding along the other day at about 40 mph and my engine just DIED. No sputtering, jerking, lurching, etc.. I have a 1999 Silverado 1500 4.3.
Since then I've tried swapping the fuel filter out. When I took the old one off I did the blow test and could barely get a bit of air through it. Put in a brand new one. Still won't start. It cranks but it won't turn over. It's like it is starved for gas I suppose.
All electrical faculties are functioning seemingly normal. (Of course I have to charge the battery every time I want to try and crank it because it doesn't charge itself because IT WON'T CRANK!)
I've had to change the fuel pump twice in the past 2 years. The last time was about 5 months ago.
For the past week or two my "Change Engine Oil" light has been on even though I've had my oil changed a month ago.
Chevrolet - 1500 :: Oil Pressure Goes Down As The Engine Temp Increases
I have an 88 Chevy C1500. It started showing low oil pressure about a year ago and I went with a heavier oil and oil pressure go a bit better.
Just changed the oil and now, when I start the engine cold, I show normal oil pressure. As the engine temp increases, the oil pressure goes down. When engine is fully warm, oil pressure shows 0 and "check gauges" light comes on.
Decided to put even heavier oil in but guy at parts house said it was probably the sending unit, not a worn out engine. I tend to agree because I drove it more and never hear any ticking or valve noise. Too cheap to replace the sending unit.
From the symptoms above, does thus sound right? Could the sensor somehow fail as engine temperature increases? Everything I read says oil pump failure is very rare.
Chevrolet - 1500 :: 2001 - Long Lasting Engine Knock
I have a 2001 Chevy 2wheel drive 4.3 V6 Pickup with a long lasting engine knock. I use it only to haul trash and building materials, maybe once every other week. The knock is sporadic. If I take a long trip and drive on an interstate highway the following morning upon start-up the truck will knock heavily and continue to do so as long as it is running. If I take the truck for a short local trip, the following morning it will start with no knock and only start knocking after driving maybe 10 miles. If I drive only short trips, the truck will almost always start without knocking and only knock once it is fully warmed up. I purchased this vehicle from my brother who drove it this way ever since he purchased it at a salvage auction (full of dents and some damage) who put over 20,000 miles on it with this same engine knock.
Other than the dents, the truck is in great shape, no rust, and has 118,000 miles on it. I would like to keep this thing because it was very cheap and I only use it sporadically. So, I'd like to know if I'm going to eventually have to put a motor in it or if there is some small fix I could make to stop this knocking sound. The sound: It is heavy. It sounds bad. It knocks along with the rpm of the motor. My brother, who is also a great mechanic, thinks it may be piston slap or something in the valve system. I've also had a mechanic listen to it. He thinks it's a rod bearing or wrist pin. What I don't understand is how could it be any of those things when it makes a difference how I drive it the last time it was used? Could it be something simple like a vacuum issue, knock sensor or crank sensor?
Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1996 Chevy Engine Hard To Start When Cold
I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
View 2 RepliesChevrolet - 1500 :: 1999 - Hesitate / Engine Light Reads Random Misfire
Chevy 1999 tahoe 5.7 vortec ... Car hesitates engine light reads random misfire at auto zone. Took to dealer said 10 degrees out of time on his diagnostic machine. Replaced just about every thing on engine dealer said he couldn't fix because he couldn't adjust distributor, I told him on my car that you couldn't adjust timing from distributor, who is right?
View 13 RepliesC/K :: 1994 1500 5.7 Liter Engine Skipping / Misfiring - Truck Running On Half The Cylinders
My truck is skipping but if I give it more throttle it will stop but then will start back when I let off the throttle. It seems like it is only running on half the cylinders. This problem is intermittent which makes it very hard to troubleshoot even for the dealership and other places I have taken it. Also, the problem is temperature sensitive. It only does it below 40 deg. F. Truck runs fine any other time of the year. Truck has new plugs, plug wires, distributor, egr valve, O2 sensor. Also, the IAC has been cleaned. The check engine light does not come on.
View 14 RepliesChevrolet - 1500 :: 2003 - Reduced Engine Power Light Along With P1516 Fault Code
I have a 2003 Chevy 1500HD 6.0L 4x4. I've recently started getting the "Reduced Engine Power" light along with the P1516 Fault code. I've checked all the wires going to the TAC Module, TPS, and MAP, all appear to be in good condition. The Throttle Body is clean and the "flapper moves freely with no sticking. I only have this issue when it is warm outside. Recently we've had fairly code days between 32-50 degree weather but on the few days that it has gotten warmer, I've had the issue. Since it seems to only happen when its warm, I believe it to be a moisture issue, but I'm not sure.
View 6 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: Clutch Slipping And Won't Disengage
Ok santa fe 2006 (facelift) clutch was slipping. We've put new clutch kit in it (thrust bearing; friction and pressure plate). We discovered it had already had the DMF concersion to single mass. So we ordered the single mass clutch kit for it and fitted. All back together, clutch won't disengage and allow you to put it in gear!!! So took it all apart again to check the fitting as the inspection hatch it just didnt appear all fingers on the pressure plate was being pulled.. all looked correct, thrust bearing snapped in to place as it should... we got box back on (making sure the lever entered the thrust bearing correctly) and still no luck. When you press the clutch you can pull the rubber on the slave cylinder back and the piston moves all the way to the circlip. There appears to be movement on the pressure plate in the box. At a complete loss.......... what could have happened?
View 3 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: Clutch Replaced But Won't Disengage
Santa Fe 2003 petrol manual 2.4
I had a slipping clutch so decided to change it myself.
I replaced the Dual Mass Flywheel the clutch pressure plate and clutch plate.
Re assembled and the car started first time but the clutch would not disengage.
Pressed the clutch peddle down and it went to the floor until the fluid had filled then it went solid.
I pressed it down again and the clutch did not release so pressed harder and 'pop' the master clynder went - but the clutch would not disengage.
Taken the gearbox back off now and the release bearing is in sit it just would not disengage -
Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Clutch Won't Completely Disengage
We swapped transmissions in 01 elantras.. We installed a new clutch kit . When we go to start the clutch won't completely disengage, it only pulls it some, not enough. We replaced Tran fluid and bled it. We swapped out the throw out bearing arm and at first it worked now it doesn't..
View 3 RepliesCivic - Honda :: 1995 - Clutch Won't Disengage
I have a 95 Honda civic with a d15b block and a d16z6 head millage unknown I put a new clutch in it already had a new slave and master I installed a few weeks ago and when the car is running with out the clutch pressed in I can run through all the gears shift with ease it's like the clutch is pressed in but it's not
I've tried dropping the tranny and checking the pressure plate the clutch disc throw out bearing pilot bearing all good and installed right I rebleed the system then I removed the slave to see if it was in the hydroelectric system and still no change what am I missing.
Ford - Mountaineer :: Cooling Fan Clutch Never Seems To Disengage
The cooling fan clutch never seems to disengage so I was wondering where can i find a clutch that is light duty so it will disengage easy and work with gas mileage napa list two different ones, maybe off a different vehicle....
View 3 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 1997 - Clutch Won't Disengage
Ok so I have a 97 Ford Explorer 5-speed manual transmission. When I start the truck up in first gear, with my clutch pedal fully depressed, the truck goes forward as if im not pressing the clutch pedal down at all. And if I start the truck up in neutral, with the clutch pedal fully depressed, I cannot get into any gear. There are no leaks anywhere and there is plenty of fluid in the reservoir. What the problem may be or where i might wanna start looking?
View 1 RepliesFord Transmission :: 2000 4X4 - Clutch Won't Disengage
2000 ranger, 4.0L 5spd 4x4
Recently my buddy's 2000 ranger's clutch stopped working, it wouldnt disengage. I checked the reservoir and it was empty, checked below and between the bellhousing and engine was soaked. I filled the reservoir up and attempted to bleed the system with my vacuum bleeder and it barely got any fluid out. Ordered a new slave cyl and just put it in today. You could see how wet the old one was when I took it out.
So today when I finished installing everything, I filled the reservoir and bled the system, lots of fluid coming through, everything seemed good, however the clutch still feels extremely light, and won't disengage. I looked at it through the inspection cover and there is maybe a 1/4" of movement total. I don't get why this thing is not working! How can you tell is the clutch master cylinder is bad?