Trans Sport :: Car Won't Be Able To Maintain RPMs On Warm Start And Produce White Smoke
'92 3.8l Trans Sport owner, 165 miles on it (if I can trust the previous owner), have this vehicle for 4 years now(I owned 2.3l version before - not to recommend).
At cold start, it starts without any problem, maintains the RPMs as it should and doesn't produce any white smoke. But when I start it when it's warm(or hot, doesn't matter), the car in a lot of cases won't be able to maintain the RPMs and die. If I apply some throttle for first 2 seconds, it will be ok and it will continue to run normally without any pedal assistance. From time to time this causes a very rough start and it will miss on 1 cylinder until it warms up a bit(15 second - 3 minutes). Regardless the way of starting(assisted or normal) it will start to produce a white smoke, when I wait at stop light for 30 seconds or more and idle becomes very rough and slowly starts to miss on one cylinder.
When I continue to drive, it's ok after a few seconds, until I idle again. My mechanic told me, it's the head gasket, but as nobody in the whole world does not complain about head gasket failure on 3.8l GM engine, I'm a bit sceptical and wouldn't want to invest money on something the car does not need. People mention the intake manifold failure is common for this engine, could that be the case? Car slowly loses the coolant(1l in 2 weeks), no leaks, water pump has just been replaced, smoke was present before replacement. Ignition is OK, new spark plugs, 1 year old cables, 2 years old ICM, first coils, sparks on all cylinders.
Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: At Start Up Produce Ticking Sound But Stop Above 1000 To 1500 Rpm
It's winter here and as my car warms up it starts to tick. It doesn't happen right away, only as the car warms up and it gets progressively louder until a certain point at which point it seems to stop (or has faded significantly). It primarily happens in idle and in gear but will go away after revving above a certain point (around 1500-2000rpm). If I put it in neutral the noise is greatly reduced or disappears completely unless I rev it from about 1000rpm-1500rpm. Once the car reaches operating temperature the noise is gone. What it could be? The sound appears to be coming from the top of the entire. Also, it doesnt seem to do this when its warm outside. I have a 2011 sonata GLS and I change the oil every 3000 miles. I use either Bosch filters or OEM filters so I know the filter has nothing to do with the ticking.
View 21 RepliesCelica :: 1997 ST Takes Several Attempts To Start Up
I have a 1997 Celica ST 1.8 liter. Over the past month, it has developed an issue with starting up. It takes several attempts to start up- sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Once its started up, it runs fine. It usually has no problems starting back up as long as I don't wait any longer than 8-12 hours. Once I get passed that mark, it gives me trouble all over again. Some days it won't start at all, regardless of how many times I try or how long I try for. Now going on day 3 of it not starting at all, turns over and sounds like it's trying, but just won't do it.
The second I stop or turn the key off, it makes a noise like it was going to try to start; however, never actually does. It's a very weird thing. I've talked to a ton of people and a few thought it had to be the crankshaft position sensor. But, I just don't think that's spot on. I've done quite a bit of research and personally think it's the cold start injector or something along those lines.
Another thing I just remembered.. I read that cold start injectors are usually on older cars only, not sure if that's true or not because I read a problem on a 2003 that was a cold start injector, which could have just been a site with bad info. But having a separate injector for "cold start" threw me off in the first place. And what I see on my car that I'm thinking is it, is solely based off a few diagrams and pictures I have seen.
Just tried to hand choke it, way closer to starting than it has been the last 3 days. Tried to give it a little gas, but still didn't start. Thought I had it a few times there. Also, noticed some oil sitting on below the engine, but on part of my car not the ground. To the left if I was standing looking under the hood. Between the bumper and the engine, closer to the engine.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Crunching Sounds From Front Passenger Side - Wheel Turns Hard
Had crunching sounds from front passenger side. Replaced CVJ shaft and hub bearing/assembly noise gone but tire turns hard by hand drivers side turns freely. Looked on line and guy had same thing going on said maybe 4x4 vacuum actuator might be bad and truck stuck in four wheel .does this sound right? I have manual trans and gear box so I don't understand why the actuator is even there.
View 4 RepliesCelica :: 1988 3SGE - Noise At Start Up After Sitting For A While
When my car sits for a while and i go start it i hear for the first 2 seconds a noise then it goes away until i start it up next time after sitting for a while. It sounds kind of like a diesel.
I pulled the oil pan and checked the bearings they are all fine... to me it sounds like it could be something in the top end because the longer it sits, the oil drains out of the top end and when i start it the oil gets pumped back up to the top and stops the noise....but what is it?
I was thinking of checking the valve caps for intake and exhaust with a feeler gauge to see if there's a gap between the camshaft lobe which would make a noise...but more of a ticking...I am not hearing a ticking though.
Audi - A4 :: 1997 - Rear Suspension Bushings Crunching Thumping Sounds When Body Torques Over Irregular Surfaces?
My rear bushings on my 1997, A4 Audi, make a crunching thumping sounds when the body torques over irregular surfaces. My Audi mechanic says that it is the bushings. Replacing the A frames and bushings will cost more than half the car's worth. I belief that dust got into the bushings when I went on dirt roads in Death Valley or they are just worn. When I blast the bushings with water the noise disappears or dampens for a while. Car has 186,000 miles.To keep the noise down, can I add graphite or some other material to the bushings?
View 4 RepliesPhaeton :: Crunching Noise When Rear Driver Window Go Up
I was putting my rear driver window up yesterday, and I hear a crunching noise.....it struggled, but I was able to get it back up. What should I do? I'm thinking it's the regulator, or a clip came off of the window, etc.
View 11 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Crunching Noise When Switching Off Ignition
I bought a mk iv 2.0 GTi last week and twice now I've heard a sound what i can only describe as someone stamping on an empty can after switching off the ignition and opening the driver side door.
The sound, sounds like it comes from under the bonnet.
The car runs sweet engine is all clean sounds ok no other knocks or bangs.
What could be causing this? It seems to happen after the engine is warm and I've given it some throttle but only when the engine has just been turned off.
Passat (B7) :: 2013 - Crunching Noise When Turning Left
As the title suggests, I am getting a crunching noise when I turn left on my 2013 Passat SE. It sometimes occurs when turning right also, but doesn't happen as often as turning left. Hard to describe it any other way. What could be causing this noise?
View 9 RepliesCelica :: 1996 Toyota SX Making High Pitch Rattling Noise When Start It
i have a 96 toyota celica sx which makes a horrible noise when i start it, its almost like a high pitch rattling noise, usually goes away when it warms up but sometimes still making it accelerating, think the noise is coming from area which is in the photo, what it is?
View 7 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: Vibration / Rattle / Clunking / Crunching And Whirring Noise
What I have happening is clunking that can be felt in the pedals and dead pedal at random time. Bad vibration can be felt through the cabin but this is hard to quantify since I already had VF mounts, I'm lowered on PSS9's, have camber plates, etc etc. It just seems to me that the vibration has gotten worse than the "normal" vibration these mods would introduce. Whirring/rotational noise that comes and goes and seems to be right in front of the the driver's seat. It also sometimes seems to go away if I am cruising down the road and I push the clutch in.
Crunching noise (almost like a CV joint which is shot) but this noise appears randomly at various speeds and when driving straight. All of this is pointing me more and more towards a tranny problem which is not what I want to hear but I also don't want to keep driving my car without knowing what is wrong with it. One note is I did install the trans shim, replaced black cap on end of trans in Feb and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary at that time
I have pulled the driver's axle 3 times in the last month and can find nothing wrong with it. I have pulled the suspension apart on the entire front end and found/see nothing. I have pulled, twisted, shaken, etc everything looking for bad or worn parts/bushings and can find nothing.
Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Rear Quarter Panel Crunching Noise
I bought a used 2013 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T Limited in August from a Hyundai dealership near Vancouver, BC. The vehicle had fairly high mileage (95K) but had been well-cared for and I got it for a fair price.
After a few days I noticed there was a "crunching" noise coming from the rear driver's side quarter panel area when going over the u/g parking ramp into my condo. The rear seats also jiggle and rattle at moderate speeds. Didn't really notice either on my test drive before buying it, as I just went over smooth roads.
I searched this forum and found some good leads, such as the inner quarter panel being loose, rear trailing arm issues, or perhaps some faulty welds. I printed out this info. reported by other owners and brought it to the dealership.
As kind of expected, the technician each time has said he couldn't hear anything unusual. (selective hearing?) The suspension system is supposedly sound.
My friends and family members all hear this creak (under the right conditions when the rear wheels are at uneven heights)...it's not my imagination. I've taken out the styrofoam cargo support and nothing changed.
I had a loaner 2015 Santa Fe and there was no such noise.
The rear seat jiggle is also irritating. I've experimented with putting the seat backs at different angles and nothing really works.
The vehicle has about 500KM left on its 100,000KM warranty.
Mercury - Mariner :: 2005 - Creaking / Crunching Noise When Accelerate
I've been trying to chase down a creaking noise from what I think is the front passenger side for about a month now -- it happens when I accelerate and the weight of the car (2005 mercury mariner) shifts. It's mostly a creak but almost a knocking/crunching sound that seems to correspond to when I give it gas.
I recently got my sway bar links and tie rod ends replaced, so I could have sworn it was a bushing on the control arm. Spraying silicone grease doesn't do anything, and last night I noticed what I think is the same noise happen when I shift from park to drive.
Could this be a worn motor mount? I'd rather replace that on my own than have to bring it in and get a new control arm installed so I can get a realignment.
Prius (Gen 2) :: 2007 - Crunching Noise When Stopping / Clicking When Rolling Slow
My 2007 Prius, 181189 miles, made a crunching sound when I left the freeway this am while stopping. No shaking, vibration or noises while going at speed.
When first accelerating I hear a crunch then clicking. This happened at each stop until I parked. Sounds fine when going in reverse.
I am at work and am wondering if I need a tow truck or try to drive 75 miles home tonight?
Prius (2004-09) :: Code P0A92 Accompanied With Grinding / Crunching Noise
2008 Prius with 105k miles was throwing code (P0A92) and had accompanying grinding/crunching noise. Intermittently, The HV battery would drain down and the car would have difficulty starting. The car was stranded in the middle of a 2,000-mile trip in October after extended use of the A/C, and was left at a friend's house until February.
After weeks of arguments with local Toyota dealerships, who refused to listen to Toyota's national service representatives and demanded that we purchase a replacement battery for $3,000, I purchased and installed a HybridAutomotive grid charger. The Prius started and drove, but lost power about 10 miles into the drive back. Being in a hurry, we resolved to return with a trailer and tow the car back to my shop.
A replacement, low-miles transmission was installed per directions in the FSM. There was some trouble getting the inverter pump to bleed (I ended up taking off the return hose & pouring coolant backwards through the pump), and I had to swap in a spare 12v battery due to the old one being discharged. The car showed codes C0205 and C0200 (left front wheel speed sensor signal malfunction, right front wheel speed sensor signal malfunction), but no other issues.
About two weeks and 3,000 miles into the transmission swap, the battery I'd swapped in would no longer fire up the computer. A test showed the battery I'd swapped in (which I purchased in 2005) was only outputting 300 CCAs (out of a rated ~1,000). The Prius accessory battery was charged and reinstalled. The battery started the car, but would often need to be charged overnight in order to start the car (even though it would pass voltage and CCA tests). When the car won't start, attempting to jump it off another car doesn't work, and the battery had given readings as low as 10.5 volts, indicating a bad cell.
Yesterday, I had the car's owner run the in-car test procedure. Voltage was 12.3 without load, 12.0 with load. The third test could not be completed because the car shuts down. As the voltages were slightly low, the battery was replaced under warranty, but the car is exhibiting the same symptoms with the new battery. I'm now suspecting a bad inverter and/or failed inverter pump.
Passat (B6) :: Crunching Noise In Front End Usually Pulling Out Of Driveway Or Hitting Bump
So recently my car has been making almost a crunching noise in the front end of my car usually pulling out of the driveway or hitting any type of bump. But it doesn't seem to always happen. It's a louder crunch when it's colder out. It almost sounds like a rusty door being closed/opened rather then a crunch. My car has just about 77k on it and this is the only issue I have with it.
View 16 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Grinding / Crunching Noise Coming From The Front But Only When Accelerate
A grinding/crunching noise recently started happening to my 2001 vw vr6 12v.seems to be coming from the front of the car but only when i accelerate. I hear it through all the gears and am a little concerned as winter is approaching.
View 1 RepliesElantra XD (2001-06) :: Crunching / Clunking Noise When Go Over Bumps - Upper Control Arm
I have a 2001 Elantra GLS. After reading info on the forums it sounds like my crunching/clunking noise when I go over bumps would most likely be the upper control arm. Is this the only control arm?
View 6 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 V6 - Crunching Noise From Front End When Go Over A Speed Bump
I have a front end noise when I go over a speed bump or hit a pot hole. It is kind of a crunching nise like something needs grease.
The Hyundai dealer charged me $54 to diagnose the problem and told me I needed both upper control arms replaced to the tune. They did force some grease in the bushings.
The car only has 63000 miles.