Celica :: 1986 GTS Idles At 3500 Constantly
Okay, little back story me and my dad pulled this 1986 Toyota Celica gts out of the wood after been left to rot with a broken timing belt. Anyways we fixed it, got it legally driving, everything was great. Well minus the acorns that blow out the vents when the ac was on. I was going to work one day and the oil pump locked up and broke the timing belt. We then had the motor rebuild .04 over I think... It ran like a brand new car but shortly after about 3 months I noticed every time I got in the car to go somewhere the idle was going up with each start of the motor. Now after sitting for a long time I really wish to get it running again.
It hasn't been started in a while, 2 years maybe. As I'm afraid that it might hurt the newly rebuild motor. It last idled at a constant 3500 RPM, if you're driving down the road it just keeps going tell you find yourself in 5th gear. It wants to take off from stop signs like a rocket as well... I know its not the cpu because we got one and swapped it out and it still does it we done a few other thing like check timing and try to adjust the idle screw checked the distributor cap. it has no codes flashing when using the jumper next to the engine. it has all brand new parts alternate, water pump, o2 sensor, fuel pump, oil pump, fuel injectors. I think that's about it.
Celica :: 1986 Mk2 Supra Manual Stick Too Loose?
My 1986 Toyota celica supra stick shifter is pretty loose and I don't like it. Any way I can tighten it up?
View 5 RepliesCelica :: 1986 V6 Transmission - Hard Shifting / Not Smooth
I have an 86 celica with a 3sgte swap. 92 Camry v6 transmission . It feels rough when going into gears. Not smooth. I just replaced the transmission and it feels EXACTLY like the old the.
View 1 RepliesCelica :: 1986 GTS Stalls When Start After Engine Has Been Off For 10 To 20 Minutes
My 1986 celica gts stalls only after the engine has been off for approx. 10 to 20 minutes. It starts fine, but stalls as soon as it starts, unless i keep my foot on the gas for about 5 to 10 seconds. After that it starts and runs fine at all other times. I've changed the coolant temp. sensor, but condition still exists.
View 13 RepliesCelica :: 1986 GTS - Warm Engine Sometimes Turnover And Idle Very Rough
I have a 1986 Celica GT-S with 50,000 original miles on it. Car starts perfectly fine in the morning, runs fine, no issues. Problem happens when the engine is warm, and I let it cool off for about 10 minutes or so, at that point, when I try and turn the engine over, it would sometimes turn over and idle very rough, or sometimes it would die and I have to give it gas to keep the engine running. Once I am able to get it in gear and drive, the engine rpm would recover and go back to normal. I have new NGK wires, denso iridium spark plugs.
View 2 RepliesToyota - Celica :: 1986 - Tail / Brake / Battery Warning Lights Came On - Won't Charging
Problem with my '86 Celica's charging system. Car has about 135,000 miles and original alternator and belt. It is usually driven once or twice a week, but after sitting about 10 days, the tail light, brake, and battery warning lights came on when I started it. The lights went out after a minute. This same sequence of events happened the next three times I started the car that day. The fourth time, the lights went out but came back on as I drove. I found that revving the engine to between two and three thousand RPM made the light go off, but it sometimes came back on. And the engine revving isn't a sure thing now. Hit and miss. My wife and I have been trying to diagnose the problem.
When the warning lights are on, the dash voltmeter is near the bottom of the operating range. After revving and the lights going off, the voltmeter jumps up near the top of the normal operating range indicating the battery is charging.
The belt is checkered on the inside but not frayed. It deflected about 7/16ths inch midway between two pulleys about 17" apart. The Haynes manual said 1/2 inch was maximum deflection for that span. No unusual noises from the alternator.
We ran a checklist from my Haynes manual but I think it has an error in it. Here are the two steps that don't make sense. I marked the parts that seem to contradict with asterisks.
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal.
i) With the key off, insert a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.
1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.
2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.
3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.
(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted)."
Well, we decided that the last instruction in Step h should be to reconnect the POSITIVE cable (but could be wrong). I did this and we did Step i as written. The light came ON (Step 2). Disconnect the alternator wires at two points. Light stayed ON. Pulled every fuse under the hood and on the kick panel by the clutch. Light stayed ON.
The battery is near the end of its warranty period--about two-year old DieHard. Voltage at the terminals is about 12.4V with key out, about the same with ignition on but not running, the same with engine running and the dash lights showing, and about 14.5V after I get the dash lights to go off and the battery starts charging.
So, we're at a standstill. Tests say the tension on the belt is okay. The test light testing indicates the alternator is okay and the test light stayed on as fuses were pulled. The key was out of the ignition during the testing, but there are circuits that work without the key (brakes, hazard, headlights, etc.). Is the belt maybe slipping even though it is within specs on tension? What about the contradiction in the Haynes testing?
Celica :: 1989 GTS - Can Hear The Motor But Sunroof Won't Move
I have a 1989 celica gts. I can hear the motor but my sunroof wont move..it wont open so I dont know how to get in and see what the problem is. Do I start by taking out the headliner?
View 3 RepliesLexus ES 2007-12 :: How To Remove Sunroof / Dome Light Panel
I'm the proud owner of a 08 ES350 with 104,000KM on the clock. I am looking for info on how to remove the sunroof/ dome light panel, I removed the two screws in the sun glasses holder so the front is released but the back seems solid. I removed the bezel around the garage door opener buttons, hoping to find more screws but no. Is it held by clips or is there something I'm missing?
View 3 RepliesCelica :: 1995 - How To Properly Remove Deployed Airbags
So I'm trying to figure out how to properly remove deployed airbags from my 1995 Toyota Celica. I know people just cut them out and go from there. But I'm not the type to cut corners when it comes to repairing my car.I would really like to not have to take it to a shop if it's just possible for me to do so myself. Save time & money & I prefer to do my own work on my own car unless it's completely out of my legue. where I can find how to remove my 2 deployed airbags from my car the PROPER way..
View 1 RepliesCelica :: 2001 - How To Remove Power Steering Pulley
I need to remove the power steering pulley on a 2001 Toyota Celica GTS to replace the pulley shaft's seal. I've got several pullers, so I figure one of them will work. But, I'm concerned that when I pull it out it could damage whatever it messes with inside. Also, I'm going to try doing this with pump on the vehicle.
View 1 RepliesToyota - Celica :: How To Remove Spark Plugs To Turn Crankshaft
I'm trying to turn the crankshaft by hand to verify my timing belt alignment, but meeting some resistance. is this because I have the spark plugs in? do i have to take them out to turn the crank? also, that little groove in the belt guide doesn't seem to line up with anything or get held by the rib on the crankshaft. does that matter, or have i got it installed wrong?
View 1 RepliesCelica :: 1989 Celica GT - When Pressing On Gas / Idle Drops And Then Car Dies
My brother was the original owner then passed it on to me. I then passed it on to my younger cousin about two years ago. The car is completely stock and has never been modified. Everything is OEM.Just a couple of weeks ago I was called by my cousin saying the car broke down on her .The problem is that we took it to a few mechanic shops but they still haven't fixed it ...
Problem with car: When pressing on the gas, the idle drops and then the car dies (a scary event that happened to us and on a main road). I do not wish to bring it to another fail mechanic shop.What the shops did: changed all fluids, distributor cap and plugs, new spark plugs, and replaced air intake piping with oem piping.
Volvo - 245 :: 1986 - Stuttering When At Temp
I have an '86 245 with an intermittant engine stutter for the last several months. This only happens after the car has been running for about 20 minutes or on a hot day. It will stutter for several seconds (some times die) and then function normally for the next 5 to 30 minutes before it stutters again.The car was tuned up about 1 month before the problem startedI replaced the fuel pump relay, did not work. The shop told me the in tank pump was bad so they replaced that. This seemed to fix the problem but a month later it started to do it again.
View 1 RepliesToyota :: 1986 - Loud Humming That Comes And Goes
I have a problem with my 1986 Toyota 4X4 pickup for over four years now,the problem is a noise from the front end that occurs when hubs are in Locked position a loud humming that comes and goes, I can hit the brakes hard and it goes away for a few seconds, I can hit a bump and it goes away for a few seconds, I can take a sharp turn and it goes away for a few seconds. This woowoowoo or hum only happens when the hubs are locked not when they are in the free position, I cannot shift in 4wd and make it go away for a few seconds, the noise gets worse the faster I go, it also gets worse the colder the weather is. I have replaced the axles twice and the front diff once and still has a noise, I have checked the wheel bearings for play and they are fine, I have repacked the hubs with fresh grease, the sound, sounds like metal to metal friction.
View 5 RepliesVolvo :: 1986 - Cranking Lengthy And A Bit Weak
On my 86' 740 the cranking has been kinda lengthy and a bit weak as if the battery is going bad. I finally had an episode where the cranking and the start was stranding me. After three attempts and keeping the throttle wide opened it started. What is now strange is the crank is strong and faster as if something broke loose or got reset.
View 1 RepliesChevrolet - Camaro :: 1986 - Car Dies After Warm Up
I recently purchased for my son a 1986 camaro 2.8 MFI v6 the car had been sitting for over a year in the previous owner's back yard because it would not start.I have had a mechanic do the following: heads redone, replace the distributor, replace the timing chain and gears, new wires, and emptied the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter.
I picked up the car and it ran for about two week no problem. Then it started diying occasionally when you let of the gas to come to a stop, so he replaced the fuel relay switch thinking that it may be going bad. The next day he had been driving it about 15 miles when it just died and would not restart. We shot a little starting fluid to see if we could get it to start and get it back home. it fired up and ran all the way home and died when turning into the driveway. and would not start again.
We replace the fuel regulator the car started right up and he took it for a test drive. The car ran about 4 miles, long enough to warm up and died again and would start. and again we were about to get it started with starting fluid to get it back home. pulled in the driveway and it dies. again it would not start, let it sit all night and the next morning still would not start finally got it to start with a squirt of starting fluid and moved it into the garage. shut if off and then tried to start it and it worked 5 times in a row.
Chevrolet :: 1986 Chevy Slow When Going In Reverse
A friend of mine has an 86 Chevy 1/2 ton, all origional. His problem is that the truck is "slow" going into reverse, but once there, feels "solid". I haven't personally looked at the truck, and am not sure what his concept of "slow" is. I understand there's probably not enough information to determine the cause, but it doesn't hurt to try.
View 7 RepliesFord - Mustang :: 1986 LX Dies When Key Is Released
Okay so i have a 86 Ford Mustang LX 3.8L v6 so i have a brand new starter, starter solenoid and ignition lock cylinder installed all not even a half a week old so my issue is when i go to start my car it cranks over just fine and fires up when i release the key to just let it run it instantly dies it will run if i just fine if i hold it in place, what it could be and that's ignition switch in steering column ...
View 19 RepliesChevrolet - Corvette :: 1986 - Vibration And Shaking At 65 - 75 Mph
I have 1986 Gold Corvette, which now has Antique Virginia Plates. I had a terrible Vibration at 65 - 75 MPH that would shake the car so bad I could not drive it more than 20 minutes and I could not tell if it was in the front or the back.
I had the following installed: Front and Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly (Timken), Front and Rear Brake Rotors, Front and Rear Rebuilt Calipers, Front and Rear Hawk/ Wellman HPS Brake Pads and four Stainless Steel Brake Hoses.
Now the vibration is about half-gone, but still shakes the GoldVette at 65 - 75 MPH, and I still cannot tell if it is in the front or the back.
A few years ago, I replaced the Rack-in-pinion and Tie Rod Ends. What do I replace next to eliminate the vibration so that I can drive it about 100 miles?