Camaro :: Engine Starts And Runs Well For About 15-20 Minutes Then Shut Down
Here is my question.. 94 Z28 38K 6spd. Starts right up and runs well, for about 15-20 minutes then will shut down( like the key was turned off) When this happens I have no signal to either the ignition module or to the injectors.
This car was damaged by an idiot that flooded the dist. with coolant doing a flush. They replaced it with a Advance auto remain. This is when the trouble started. I did replace the I/M with an AC OEM Module, no change, verified all wiring from the computer to the Dist. and I/M. All checked out. I am thinking that the cheap remain unit is my problem and am looking to get the MSD Opti spark system to hopefully fix and to prevent this problem from happening again.
I cannot retrieve codes (94 won't flash CEL codes). Is there any other method of diag I could use to verify my suspicions. Oh, there is not response from the Tech either once the engine dies.
Volvo - V70 :: 2001/ 24T Vehicle Runs Smooth When Cold / Runs Rough With Delayed Acceleration On Warm Up
My 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Runs Rough For About A Minute After Engine Started When Cold
This has been an ongoing issue for about a month. When I start the engine after it has been sitting and is cold it runs ruff for about a minute then smooths out and runs fine. I pulled a P0304 code (cyl.4 missfire) but I do not get a CEL.
I checked the plugs and they were ok but I changed them and the wires anyway as it just turned 50k and the plugs were original. I could live with a little cold ruff idle but the code throwing bothers me. The truck is a 2000 xlt 4x with auto trans. and 4.0 engine. This is my second 4.0 ranger but I have only had it for about 6 months.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 4X4 - Intermittent Misfire / Runs Rough For About A Minute
I have a 99 F150 Lariat 4x4 with a 5.4, 150,000 mile on it. About 2 weeks ago I blew spark plug out on #2, and a friend who said he has heli-coiled a bunch of these tried to do mine and ruined the head. Anyway, I called a local engine shop and got another PI head, only I used my cam in it. Torqued it as per the book, etc... Mind you that the engine ran perfect before all this.
Got it back together with all new plugs, new exhaust manifold, and 2 new COP's. When I start it-it runs rough for about a min, then straightens back out to run perfect again, and after a few seconds you can hear a solenoid click, then it goes back to missing again. This goes on and on... I went through all the vacuum lines and checked them, checked the egr valve, put on a new IAC, new PVC, cleaned the MAF, and checked everything else with a DVM.
I took it out and drove it.... Runs good for a minute, then it goes back to missing, then back to smooth again. This just keeps going on and on. I noticed when I hear that click, it sounds like a mad rush of air being sucked in, but I cannot locate it. I ordered a new set of COP's to try next. I can understand if it just plain missed all the time, but this it intermittent. Also, the only code I can get is a too lean on bank 1, so I replaced the 90's and the pvc valve. Now no codes but still in and out of missing. It ran perfect before the new head.
Grand AM :: 1997 Hesitates / Bogs Down On Acceleration
I have a 97 Pontiac Grand Am w 3.1 engine that is my son's college car. We recently rebuilt the original engine and put it in after having a 99 monte carlo 3.1 engine in it's place and it had a head gasket problem as well. Just before we switched engines my son was noticing that it would kind of hesitate under acceleration from about 1500 rpm to around 2000 rpm especially when it was wanting to up shift. I figured it would resolve itself with the engine change. It did not. It has now gradually gotten worse.
My son drove it to Liberal about 4 hours away and he stated it was worse and especially when you would get into overdrive it would drop down to around 2000 rpm then start sputtering or loading up or just being dead then would down shift to 3rd and try to clean itself out and speed up and then up shift to OD and do the same cycle again. I drove it back and kept it in 3rd gear and seemed to run fine at 2500 or higher. I also had to go thru low, and 2 and feather it up from a standing start. It idles fine as well.
I thought it might be like one of the saturns I had which ended up having a plugged Catalytic converter and a bad coolant temp sensor. This morning I did a test hole and it made no difference. I tried a different coil pack/ESC and it made no difference. I cleaned the MAF sensor and no change. The fuel pressure is 41 then 38 when idling then 43 when remove the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose. I also changed the fuel filter.
I was kind of ruling out the tps, iac, and egr and water temp sensor as those were part of the other engine when I put the other engine in so they are different and I am assuming they must be good. Plugs and plug wires are new as well. It has not thrown any codes. I did notice that when it is just in park and you press on the accelerator to rev it up it only will rev to 3500 rpm and will shut down like a rev limiter is kicking in and just do a kind of surge thing. My saturn did that too and it was a plugged cat and when I knocked the biskit out of the manifold on that car it stopped. I have already got that ruled out though.
Ford Fuel System :: Bogs On Acceleration
I have a 460 with a holley manual choke 750 single pumper carb on it, when I pull out truck bogs very badly, if I try to punch it will stall unless I let off the throttle.
It seems to run best with choke almost all the way on. What the problem could be?
I'm almost positive its a carburetor problem, just not sure exactly what the problem is, could a blown power valve cause this??
The accelerator pump seems to be working properly ...
Ford Aerostar :: 1993 - Bogs Under Acceleration / No Power
My 1993 ford aerostar 3.0 is a great vehicle but recently its been killing me trying to figure out what the cause is. I'll start at the beginning. I had a job over the hill in Westwood Ca. Ran low on gas on the way home. Too low apparently. Since i refueled it has a really rough idle and no power under acceleration. After it gets warmed up i get a bad smell of gas and exhaust in the cab.
Now if i turn it off wait 15 min or 12 hours it will run ok for 2 min then back to hell. I has not stalled and i have replaced the fuel filter and a few months back i cleaned the Mass air flow sensor and replaced the TPS. I would love to take it to a mechanic but as i have been living in this old girl for the passed 6 months money is non-existent.
What to do. I have even tried disconnecting 1 at a time... the TPS, MAF, and the 02 sensor. No difference. There has been no check engine light until I tested by disconnecting TPS etc.
Chevrolet - Camaro :: Sputters And Refuses To Stay Started / Losing Acceleration When Try To Speed Up
I'm a single mom and really dependent on my car for my job and my kids... I have a 1995 Chevy Camaro 6-cylinder, and I am having engine problems... in the mornings, my car starts fine, but if I drive more than a few minutes and turn it off, she doesn't want to start up again. It turns over just fine, but it sputters and refuses to stay started. After a couple of tries, I can get it going, I rev the engine, and a cloud of dark smoke (not blue and smells like gasoline) comes out. I also smell gas strongly when the engine idles after everything smooths out. Sparkplugs, fuel filter, oil, air filter, belts, hoses, all have been replaced recently, catalytic converter is only four years old, and car has 178,000 miles on it. What I may be dealing with? I'm also losing acceleration/power when I try to speed up...
View 14 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 - Bogs Under Acceleration - Cylinders Misfiring?
My friend has 2000 12v vr6 auto and recently he experienced his car bogging under acceleration. He had the plugs and wires recently done to solve the problem and the problem went away for a day and has since returned. I scanned it and here are the codes that its threw. After doing some research i'm thinking its the coil pack, since it was pretty foggy/damp today (when the problem started again).
17626.p1218 - fuel injector for cylinder 6 (N84): short to b+
16690.p0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
16684.p0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: No Power / Rough Idle And Bogs On Acceleration
My 07 F150 has no power. I changed the timing chain, cam phasers, spark plugs and all 8 coils and still no power. Rough idle and bogs on acceleration.
View 3 Replies1999 S-10 Runs Like Crap / No Acceleration
I have a 1991 S-10 with 6 cylinders and 4.3 L. that isn't running too good at all. It is 2 wheel drive, and has an automatic trans. It cranks and starts, but dies out unless my foot is on the gas. It seems as if it wants to stay running once I have held the gas pedal down slightly for about ten minutes. When I put it into gear, and step on the gas, it slowly takes off, even if I have the pedal to the floor, and it doesn't go over about 15 m.p.h. Also, all of the gears seem to engage as I cycle from Park all the way through and back to Park again.
I have cleaned the EGR valve out. Put in a new Idle Air Control Valve. Changed the distributor cap and rotor. And my last attempt was changing the Coolant Temp. Sensor. None of these steps have even made the truck run a little better.
Fort - ZX2 :: 1998 - Hard To Start And Runs Rough Through First Acceleration
I'm having a weird issue with my 1998 Ford ZX2. The car is very hard to start when cold and it runs extremely rough, but only through my first acceleration under load. In other words, I can rev the engine a few times while in neutral, and it will run very rough, and once I start driving, it runs really rough through my first acceleration, but then it smooths out and runs fine from then on until I stop it and let it call off for 30 minutes or more. If I restart it within 30 minutes or so, everything is fine, but any longer that that and the problem reappears.
View 3 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Runs And Starts Perfect But Under Medium To Hard Acceleration It Bucks / Sputters
Starts good cold and hot. Taking off like a grandpa on an evening drive don't notice a thing. Only codes that keep coming up are 2614 and 2617 which are cmp and ckp open curcuit codes and a software incompatibility code for FICM which is due to the updated software in the fresh FICM I installed. HPO pressures are good, has boost, idles smooth, revs nice when in park. New injectors (cause it was running rough especially cold before) and CMP and CKP (because of the above codes and didn't change)and ICP and IPR (last 2 installed because of HPO codes that are gone now with the IPR and ICP). Fuel pressure is 65psi (updated spring). When you step on it while driving it sputters and bucks like it's out of fuel, let off the throttle a bit and it purrs like a kitten. I'm a little stumped. I think it puffs a little white/blue smoke while it bucks.. not much tho. and it comes in little puffs. Took off filler cap and there is almost no blow by.
View 6 RepliesPassat (B6) :: 2.0T - Terrible Throttle Hesitation?
So, there is a lot happening with the 3.6 hesitation fix lately. Haven't seen anything addressing the 2.0T hesitation. Mine has terrible throttle hesitation - have this problem with the 2.0T and/or looking for any fix? Love the feeling of making a lane change and almost getting smacked in the rear because of the lag ...
View 12 RepliesToyota - Tacoma :: 2003 - Terrible Gas Mileage
I just bought a 2003 Tacoma 2.4l engine and it has terrible gas mileage.I haven't checked the numbers yet, drive for but it cost medrive for 2 hours. Where do I start looking? The air filter is clean, the tires have plenty of air.
View 5 RepliesPassat (B5) :: Ridiculous Oil Consumption - Gas Mileage Is Terrible
The Problem(s):
[1]My car burns about 4 qt's of oil every 5,000 miles. I am constantly battling to keep the dipstick properly soaked.
[2]I bought the vehicle 8 months ago, at the time I was getting about 28 mpg cty 34-36hwy. Now I get about 21 or 22 mpg cty and lucky to get 25hwy . I know it's winter but should I be seeing this kind of a loss? I am not using the heat THAT often, or atleast not often enough to cause such a decline in mpg.
[3]The first thing I did when I bought the car was get an oil change. I took it to a non VW dealer and requested synthetic, the IDIOT monkey's did not grant my request they put their bulk trash in my car and 3 days later the oil was two qts low and darker than coal. I immediately took it to a smaller shop who changed the filter and put Syntec in. What I want too know is should I be using a different oil? Could the monkeys mistake be responsible for the current oil consumption?
How do I know if my turbo gasket(s) are bad? Anything else I could do to improve economy?I use 93octane(w/o ethanol) My oil is Syntec 5W-30.
Ford A/C :: Terrible Squealing Noise With Smoke
2 days ago, I was running my truck, and started the A/C. abut 3 mins into letting it run, it starting making this terrible squealing noise, with smoke and then it quit when I shut the A/C back off. The one side of the A/C line was SUPER HOT to the touch(on the driver side near the top of the radiator).
After doing some much needed research here on FTE, I did what was suggested and check the Air gap. it's about .026 give or take some. I pulled the faceplate of the clutch and there is no shim's behind the faceplate. The clutch moves when the A/C is off and also when the truck isn't running. Not completely freely, but not seized either.
Is this going to involve a new compressor and complete discharge? The only thing I could find that even closely resembled a washer was a snap ring inside the compressor housing. The faceplate with the spring load shows some metal to metal wear. I'm no einstein when it comes to A/C on auto's, but my bet is is on a new compressor..
Tiguan :: Terrible Loss In Fuel Economy - Bad Mileage
So, I had a catback Magnaflow exhaust put on my Tiguan a while back and ever since then my mileage has gone from a steady 28 highway to 15!!! its a crazy loss in fuel, and I brought it to the shop and they said there is nothing they can find....
My first thoughts are that the turbo is under boosting because of the amount of carbon build up on the exhaust tips....
Lexus ES 2007-12 :: Terrible Noises And Vibration While Driving
Last weekend my son had terrible noises and vibration while driving. He went to a tire shop where they discovered that the lug nuts were loose on the left front wheel. So, the car had been worked on a week before, when a shop did brake work on the back among other things. They say they didn't remove the front wheels, as the front brakes could be examined through the alloy wheels. It was the ES300. Factory alloy wheels.
So, this seems to leave four possibilities:
1. The shop is not being truthful.
2. The nuts worked loose over a 9 month period from the tire rotation done last spring, when they maybe were left a little loose.
3. Vandalism--it is parked on the street.
4. Witchcraft
Any bets? I am particularly interested in the reasonableness of 1 versus 2....