Ranger :: 1996 - Low Idle When Coming To Stoplight / Engine Stuck At High Idle A Couple Of Times
1996 Ranger 2.3 140 CID XLT 126,000 Miles. When coming to a stoplight or stopping the engine idle is low and causing engine to almost die. Engine has been stuck at high idle a couple of times. It started with the engine idle slowly coming down and now it its too low. I suspect the Idle air control valve.
View 1 RepliesFord Excursion :: Middle Wire Of Taillight Broken?
My tail light. The middle wire broke I was thinking of soldering it together?
Is this part specific to the Excursions or can I go to the junk yard and get it from other Fords?
Passat (B5) :: Auxiliary Fan Is Running On High
So today after I got done working for 9 hours today, I start my car and immediately I hear my auxiliary fan running on high as if I had the AC running. Unfortunately the car was still cold when it started and being that it was in the high 50s when I left work, I had no need to turn the AC on. Why the fan is running on high even when the car is cold. I am wondering if it could be the auxiliary fan switch. And if it is, where exactly is it located.
View 6 RepliesFord Wiring/Electrical :: 2004 - High Mount Stoplight On?
My Ranger, an '04 Edge without cargo lights. The high mount stoplight is faintly lit with the parking/headlights on. I had changed out the incandescent bulb for a LED, and went out to see how everything looked after dark. Well, the high mount had a slight glow to it, not really on, just a faint glow. This was never noticed with the regular bulb. I suspect I may have some stray voltage coming from somewhere, just enough to make the LED glow, but not enough for the normal bulb. When I switched off all the lights, it went out as well.
I tried to find a wiring diagram on line, like I've suggested to others in the past, but no luck from Autozone, or the EBSCO host I've used before. In fact the EBSCO will no longer accept "tech" as a user name or password.
So, where the problem may lie? I hate it when I can't figure out something like this!!!
Volvo :: 1996 / 850 Turbo Wagon Died In The Middle Of Freeway Without Warning
My 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon died in the middle of the freeway last night without any warning...I was driving it home after purchasing it from a private seller who is completely ignoring me now (of course). The car ran fine on the test drive and fine for the 40 or 50 miles on the way back home and then suddenly stepping on the gas did nothing and I had to get off the road immediately. I'm 8 months pregnant so needless to say, I was extremely freaked out.
Anyways, I had it towed home. Today I went out and started it and it was a little bit hesitant but it started. The RPMs were bouncing around below 1000 and the car sounded like it wanted to stall but didn't.
I read online to start it and turn the AC on see what the RPMs do and that this can diagnose an idle control valve that needs replacing. I went out and started the car again, blasted the AC and now the RPMs were staying steady at 1000 and the car no longer sounded like it was about to stall. The RPMs did shoot up passed 2000 once shortly after turning the AC on. I'm assuming this must mean that the idle control valve needs to be replaced.
Someone else had posted about their car (same model/year as mine) would die unexpectedly and in their case it turned out to be the mass air flow sensor. I am really wondering about the fuel pump, fuel pump sensor / relay.
Prius (2004-09) :: Code C1241 - Auxiliary Battery Abnormally High Positive Voltage
2005 Prius shows a C1241 code, which can mean abnormally high or low positive voltage in the auxiliary battery. In my case it appears to be abnormally high, because my voltmeter showed the battery charged to 18 volts with the car off, and when running it showed 20 volts going to the battery. There's also a POA80 code (hybrid battery pack) but I'm not convinced yet that it's a hybrid battery problem. What would cause the overcharging of the auxiliary battery?
View 8 RepliesFord Wiring/Electrical :: 1996 - Wire A/C Switches To Shut Off Compressor Relay
I'm planning the install of a 1996 351w into my '77 F-100. I'm using the '96 accessory serpentine drive (FS-10 A/C compressor, '96 alternator, etc.). It needs to mate up to the '77 wiring. I'm going to use stock '96 underhood A/C components (accumulator, hoses, condenser).
As best as I can tell, the '96 system uses the ECU to manage the A/C system, but I've converted the '96 motor to a carb.
Looking at both the '77 and '96 systems I think the easiest underhood wiring solution would be to use the '77 compressor ON wire as a relay trigger, and use the '96 High Pressure Cut Off (HCPO) on the compressor manifold, and compressor cycling switch attached to the accumulator to interrupt the relay output to the compressor.
I can get the switches and pigtails, and I can look up their pressure trigger points, but I don't know the voltage the '96 switches operate at (12v or some reduced voltage?) or how to simulate their trigger conditions to see how they work. I guess that at ambient pressure the HPCO should be normally on and the cycling switch should be normally off. So I could just wire them into the relay ground or trigger connection. But of course they aren't simple two wire switches. (Edit: Looking at it online, the cycling switch appears to be two wire, the HCPO is 4 wire).
How to wire them, should I use them to interrupt the relay ground or trigger connection?
Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1996 F350 - Dash Dimming Wire Source
I have a trans temp gauge on my 1996 F350, I have it all hooked up and functioning except for the light. I have searched without success looking for where to splice in to get the light on and have it dimmable. I have a wire routed from the gauge to the center of the dash behind the stereo. What wire I can splice into?
View 2 RepliesDodge - Intrepid :: 1996 - Throttle Position Sensor Signal Wire Producing Voltage
Background: Check engine light indicated a problem with the throttle position sensor (unfortunately, don't have the exact code). The TPS on my model ('96 Dodge Intrepid 3.3L) is the non-adjustable type. There are three wires going to the TPS -- a power source, a signal wire, and a ground. The TPS acts as a potentiometer and depending on the throttle position, sends a voltage signal down the signal wire to the computer.
Here's my question/issue: After disconnecting the TPS, I tested the three wires with a multimeter. Power source (5V) and ground were fine. But I'm getting a voltage reading of about 4.35V on the signal wire. It's my understanding that with the TPS disconnected, I shouldn't be getting any voltage on that wire. Does that sound correct? If so, what would be causing me to get a voltage reading there? I'm assuming some type of problems with the wires, maybe an exposed wire on the signal wire somewhere?
C/K :: 93 Chevy Cheyenne - Speedometer Running Fast
I have a 93 Chevy Cheyenne with a 4.3L engine. My speedometer is running about 10MPH fast when at freeway speed. The truck has factory rims and the tire size has not changed. What to check? I'm thinking maybe the vehicle speed sensor?
View 2 RepliesSonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Coolant Level In The Exact Middle Of High And Low Just After 25 Minutes Of Highway Drive
OK Wife has been coming home and the car smells like coolant. The tiny hose from the rad cap to the reservoir isn't pressurized and popping the res cap does not release pressure. Do they are supposed to pressurized?
The coolant level is in the exact middle of high and low just after a 25 minute highway drive. I cant see any puddles or leaks anywhere on the tray; but I have pulled the tray anyway to see if leaks show up on my floor. Temp gauge never wavers at all from what she tells me.
This is a bit perplexing. Maybe a bad rad cap?
Sensors :: 1998 Chevy Cheyenne C1500 4.3L V6 - Codes P0420 And P0131
1998 Chevy C1500 4.3L V6 170,000 miles
My truck is stumbling and losing engine power sporadically. When this is happening I can usually drive it if I am real easy on the gas and slowly build up speed but if I mash it the engine will eventually just die completely. It has had this problem off and on for several years and now it's back with a vengeance. It always seemed to happen after a heavy rain but now I'm not sure.
Last week I had a mechanic look at the codes and he cleared them saying that once it happened again the code(s) that showed up would be a good indicator of the actual problem. The codes that were there were for a couple O2 sensors, catalytic converter and loss of vacuum I think. It happened again and his shop was closed so I got it read and cleared somewhere else and it was P0131 bank 1 sensor 1 and since I knew that one had come up before I went ahead and replaced it myself.
The next day the CEL came back on without any noticeable engine trouble. That was yesterday, this morning it rained and the problem is back and I went to get the code read and it was the P0420. There was also C0281 stop lamp circuit something or other that was new.
My gas mileage has stayed pretty good this whole time, always 15+mpg. Just wondering if my catalytic converter probably needs replaced, if I should replace other O2 sensors, or if this all might indicate something else in the engine.
Accent RB (2012+) :: 2013 - Location Of Correct High Beam Wire
I have a 2013 Accent and have installing driving lights. I am looking for the correct high beam wire on the driver's side on the headlight assembly. I will then run this to a relay so that when I turn on my highs, the driving lights will come on. I have tried to locate the correct wire but the one wire that is hot when the highs are on, is still hot when the car is off as well as the lights.
View 6 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - Wire For Headlight High Beam?
I'm hooking up some Ridgid driving lights and want to tap into the high beam headlight power wire to activate the relay. Which wire is for the High beams on a 2006 F250 Diesel??
View 8 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 1997 - High Beams Don't Work - No Power On Wire At The Bulb Socket
I have a 1997 Explorer XLT. The high beam have not worked since I got it and now living in Virginia they are needed to pass inspection. When turned on (pushed forward) lights go out, high beam indicator comes on. When flash to pass (pulled back) lows stay on and indicator comes on. It does not have auto lamps.
What I have done:
Replaced MFS
Verified power from GRY/ORG wire on MFS when turning high beams on.
Verified power across fuse #33 when switch turned on.
Had bulbs tested, Good.
No power on high beam wire at the bulb socket.
The only thing I have not checked is what several people have referred to as a "splice" I think someone referred to it as S111? Where this is physically located or am I going to have to start the chore of tracing the wires?
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2010 F250 - High Beam Wire Color?
What color wire controls the high beams?
View 1 RepliesChevy - Silverado :: 1996 Won't Shift Into High Gear
My dad's 1996 Chevy Silverado will not shift into hi gear. The truck starts up fine and he can drive it but for some reason it won't shift into hi gear. Him and I are clueless as to why it won't. He has a 1996 Chevy Silverado, 6.5 liter V-8 automatic transmission, and its a diesel. We really want to fix the truck ourselves so we are trying to avoid taking it to a shop.
View 2 RepliesFord - Taurus :: 1996 - AC On And Fan On High / Hot Electrical Smell
My 1996 Taurus has 202,000 miles on it. One day a while back I was headed home from work. I had the AC on and fan on HIGH. I all of a sudden started smelling something hot. I threw my sunglasses into the passenger seat and saw a gray haze in my interior and slammed on the brakes and pulled over thinking my car was on fire. I got out quickly and looked under the car and then under the hood. I then followed the HOT ELECTRICAL smell to passenger side floorboard under dash. Blower motor part so I changed it. The weather got cool again so i didn't need AC for a couple of weeks. Now, ANYTIME I try to put the fan on HIGH I get that hot electrical smell. The fan has 4 settings, on the first three it's fine, but as soon as you put it on high it smells very hot. My AC isn't as cold as it used to be but it was like that before the fan motor gave trouble. I think I just need to charge the system. Why my fan motor gets/smells hot on high setting. No fuses has blown. I definitely don't want to burn this motor up. I got new fan motor that has the same electrical connection so I didn't have to splice anything. Is something overloading??
View 6 RepliesFord - Bronco :: 1996 - High Idle While Coasting
I bought a 96 Bronco 5 speed manual last year in pretty good shape.Everything works well, but the idle speed at coasting is hovering around 1500rpm until the vehicle slow down to 30mph at which point the rpm drop to about 700 (where it should be).It only happens while coasting.When truck is parked, the idle is fine and steady; I revved it up to 3000rpm for a while to see if I could replicate the behavior, but no, as soon as I release the accelerator, the rpm's drop nicely to 700.While driving though, if I switch to neutral, the rpm will go up for a second, and than sloooowly drop to around 1500 and stay there until I slow down to 30mph. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, wires, TPS, ICM, and MAF are new. Could it be ECM?
View 6 Replies