Volvo - S60 :: 2002 Engine Shaking On Start Up Sometimes
My wife has a 2002 Volvo S60 that we share with ~165,000 miles on it now. In the last 4-5 years or so, it developed this problem of feeling like the whole engine is shaking when we start it up sometimes. It can go days or even a week where we don't have this problem and then all of a sudden it happens one morning or afternoon, or whenever without any rhyme or reason. While it's shaking, the lights on the dash go in and out with the shaking (going between dim and bright). What also happens right before the shaking sometimes is that the engine will rev itself, like its got a mind of its own, sometimes up to 2000 RPMs, like I am pressing on the gas pedal and holding it, but I'm not! It will stay revved up for a good 10 secs or so then come down on its own and proceed to shake. We usually turn the car off, then on again and it goes away. If it doesn't go away, then we repeat (off/on).
We've taken it to the dealer multiple times, including in different cities since we happened to move in the last few years to another city and still, no one can solve the issue. She swears it all started happening after we went a week without the gas tank lid after it got left off by accident after we pumped gas one time. I noticed it was missing definitely within < 7 days and got a replacement right away from the auto store. Not sure if that has anything to do with it?
The car otherwise still runs fine but we just never know when the shaking thing is gonna happen next. It can even happen on the highway when we are driving. You can be trucking along at 70 MPH or so and then ease up on the gas and we'll feel it in the gas pedal and the car...it will jolt and shake a little until we rev the engine above whatever speed we had decelerated to when the shaking started.
When the shaking has happened, I have gotten out of the car to examine under the hood and cannot see anything in particular, the whole thing is just moving like normal and shaking a bit and then eventually if you leave it long enough, it stops on its own.
Volvo :: 1993 Vehicle Running Hot / Shaking While Braking
First off, vehicle is a 1993 Volvo 240, 5 speed with 131,000 miles
1) Temperature gauge is reading hot, but I believe it's running at a normal temperature. I read a few things discussing this issue. First off, a yellow wire that runs through the firewall becomes corroded (as do all Volvo wires of this age!) What exactly is this wire and what does it lead to? Could I just rerun that wire with possibly a thicker gauge? My dads an electrician so no worries with the wiring. More commonly, however; I read that the temperature compensation board fails and gives erratic readings! is this board expensive and how difficult is it to replace? I have experience with this dashboard because I rebuilt my odometer and installed a tachometer, that gives you my basic level of expertise.
2) My passenger side rear fog light won't work, a new bulb didn't fix the problem, what could it be?
3) My car shakes kind of vigorously while braking, especially at LOW speed!? I replaced front pads and rotors, what else could the problem be?
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Volvo :: Engine Began Shaking And Rumbling - Idle Went From High To Low
I have a 2001 Volvo S60. I just got in it to go to the store and I swear it is possessed! My engine immediately began shaking and rumbling the idle went from very high to dangerously low. I cut it off and cut it back on. There was no rumbling but now it is idling very high close to 3.5 rpm when it does settle after a while if i even touch the gas a little it shoots right back up. My emission error message is showing but i have had it looked at a few times and they can't find anything wrong with the emissions system. Recently my transmission message came on and stayed on for a week or so but went back off before I could have it looked at and it never drove any different even when the light was on
View 5 RepliesFord - Freestyle :: 2005 - Shaking If Drive Over 60 MPH
I took our 2005 Ford Freestyle to get an oil change this morning. It is now shaking violently if we drive it more than 60 mph.
View 2 RepliesCamry :: Front Wheel Shaking When Drive At 60+ Mph On 2004 LE
I have a 2004 Camry LE with 297,756 miles and my from right wheel shakes when I drive 60+ mph. I took it to my mechanic and he told me to get a high speed wheel balance. So I took it to the tire shop only to be told I need to replace my tires. All four was replaced but the shaking continued. I took it back to the mechanic and he then told me the lower control arm bushing need to be replace. I replaced the left and right lower control arm and the shaking is still there. What could be causing the shaking on my right front end?
View 10 RepliesVolvo :: 1994 940 Turbo Won't Rev Up Past 2500 Rpm In Drive
I have a 1994 volvo 940 turbo, the transmission has been fine, but today out of nowhere the car will not rev past 2500rpm. But only when its in drive, if i drop it to 1st or 2nd it will rev fine?
View 1 RepliesVolvo - 960 :: 1997 - Clunking Under Car As Drive Over Rough Road
This 960 is pushing 150K miles, is in good shape, and well maintained. I have replaced the swaybar links, and entire muffler system.Still, I hear clunking under car as I drive over rough road. My mechanic says there is nothing loose underneath. It's a sweet car and much fun to drive. With rear wheel drive it turns on a dime. How can I solve the annoying clunking noise?
View 1 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: Snow Tires - Unable To Drive Due To Shaking At All Speeds
Fitted new snow tires with the intent of leaving them on year round. Now find that the Escape is pretty well un drivable due to shake at all speeds. Balance has been checked by two tire shops. I think that the problem is that the deep blocks of tread are "squirming"The tires are surprisingly quiet but unfortunately will have to go.
View 2 RepliesVolvo :: Idles At About 1200 RPM / When Engage Drive Idle Drops To Very Low
My Auto 2.4 850 SE (38600miles) does this lately:
- idles at about 1200 rpm, and takes long to settle to its 850 position, even when warm;
- when I engage Drive, idle drops to very low, car vibrates as if engine wants to switch off, then rises again as I give gas and pull away.
Why this is the case, and what I could do to remedy this? (About 2 months ago, idling was going really nuts! I removed the flame trap and fresh air hose: it was full of oily gunk and I gave all components a good clean up with carb cleaner and then replaced them, and then idling all fine after that).
Prius (2004-09) :: 2008 - Mysterious Beep While Shutting Off Car
I have a 08 prius and every now and then when I shut off the car I hear the tiniest little beep and I can't figure out what it is. It isn't my FOB as I've already had that beep and fixed it over the summer. It has been going off and on for the last 2-3 months, I can't make it happen on purpose so the dealership thinks I'm losing my mind and no its not my cell phone beeping either. It is definitely the prius beeping ...
View 2 RepliesVolvo - V70 :: 1998 - Loud Whirring And Rattling When Put Car Into Drive And Start To Move
My 1998 Volvo V70R with only 53,000 miles (I'm the original owner) has picked up a problem. It started a year ago and seems to occur only when I do not let the car warm up for a few or several minutes: once I put the car into drive and start to move -- no matter how slowly -- a loud, high speed whirring sound begins. It will last for a minute or two and then stop. The speed of the whirring is constant and is not affected by how fast I drive or even if I come to a stop. It happens in both cold and hot temperatures. The whirring does not occur if I start the car and just let it idle and warm up. The loudness of the sound is such that it can be distracting to pedestrians 40 feet away. Changing the oil hasn't worked. More recently, the noise sometimes reoccurs in the middle of a drive. It always occurs when I start the car after it's been sitting for a few hours or more.
View 2 RepliesVolvo - 240 :: 1991 Station Wagon Will Reverse But Stalls In Drive / Neutral
This is a 1991 Volvo 240 Automatic Station Wagon. The Check Engine Light has been on for at least 6 months, the timing belt was replaced 3 months ago , the battery is a month old, the oil was just changed, gas tank just filled and the odometer stopped at 259,000 miles before I bought it so it has well over 300,000. Yesterday morning it took a minute to start, which happens on occasion, but backed out and drove about a mile and stalled at a stop light. It finally started, after 6 false starts, and I turned around to go back home. It then stalled again but reversed just fine, so I got it turned around and drove in reverse the rest of the way home. It drove fine after a few hours but did the same thing today.
View 13 RepliesVolvo - Abs - Brakes - Noises - V50 :: 2009 - Shhhh Noise After Start The Car And Drive Off
I have had to return my V50 twice for ABS associated problems. The first time to change a speed sensor then to replace the passenger side front hub. Now the car is making a soft shhhhhh sound for a split second whenever I drive off. According to the car manual on page 8, the car tests the ABS system "when the car first reaches the speed of 12 mph... The brake pedal will pulsate several times and a sound may be audible from the ABS control module. This is normal."or so the manual says.
My pedal has never pulsated except when I was having problems with the ABS system. In Honolulu, there is only 1 Volvo dealer and according to them the shhhh sound is normal. The repair tech went so far as to take me for a drive in a new 2011 V50, which did make the same sound. I am concerned only because I feel the braking system is important to me and the history of ABS issues. Volvo Customer service deferred to the dealers' service center. Should I take it in because the brake is not pulsating.
Buick - Regal - Starters :: Mysterious And Random Ignition Failure
Having a little issue here with my 2000 buick regal. There is an occasional instance where my car won't start for a while, then after several attempts, itll start up. When I turn the ignition key, it will not even attempt to turn over. I can't hear any clicking noise, but the lights/radio/ac will work . I know I know, it takes a lot more to start the motor than those things. What gets me most is the randomness of it, and it will eventually work without me really doing anything. I figure if it were a bad battery then it wouldn't start up at all after several attempts. I can see a bad battery connection being an issue if I moved the car and it started working, but I can sit there and just keep turning the switch on and off and that seems to be enough most of the times.
Usually it will come on within 5-10 minutes, and if I knew it would always come on in that amount of time, it wouldn't be a big issue. But, once it took over an hour before it came on again. It usually does it during the day and after I've been driving it a while, but not always. Just last night it did it for a few minutes and I hadn't driven it all day and it was at night (temp was in the mid 70's, usually hotter than that a good amount during the days) I've checked the fuses and relays and they seem to be working.
Oldsmobile - Achieva :: Mysterious Water Leak Onto The Front Carpet
I am trying to find out what could cause water to leak onto the front carpet of a 1995 Olds Acheiva from under the dash. It is not coolant. Testing with a power washer didn't cause a leak, only rainwater.
View 6 RepliesLexus RX 2004-09 :: 2007 - Mysterious Clunk / Click Noise When Turning
My RX350 is a 2007. Recently replaced the two front struts and noticed the passenger side is exhibiting this peculiar clunking/clicking/popping sound when turning. It mostly happens when turning in motion but once in a while when parked. Clunk/click sound usually only occurs once, or in a short series of 2-3 times, during turning.
Video of this clunk/click while parked : [URL] ....
Noise is almost silent at the strut mount/bearing, so I suspect it's lower in the assembly. Can feel the clunk/pop vibration with hand placed on the lower spring seat.
Took the tire off and thoroughly inspected things. No tears/leaks in any joint sleeves/bushings. Tie rods and CV joint look fine, as do strut mount, bearing, upper spring seat, insulator, rubber bumper, sleeve, and spring. None of these were replaced during the strut replacement as everything looked great and with only 55k miles.
I've not been able to reproduce the issue with the engine off, nor when the tire is off the ground when jacked/lifted.
During Google searches, it was suggested the culprit is likely either the strut mount/bearing or CV joint. We removed the strut today and everything looks the same as during the install. We can't reproduce the sound with just moving the knuckle around with the strut removed. Strut mount/bearings look in excellent condition.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 F250 - Front Axle Stuck Locked In And Drive-line Shaking
I have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
Volvo - C70 :: 2003 - Rattle / Knock Coming From Right Front When Drive Over A Bump Or Rough Area
I have a 2003 Volvo C70 that I've owned since 2004. In February, I ordered struts for the front with all the trimmings, (spring seat, strut mount, bump stop, etc) from FCP Euro. The struts were Sachs 553-058, which are supposed to be as good if not better than the original struts. I installed them myself, meticulously following the instructional video FCP publishes on YouTube. Installation went very smoothly. Afterwards, I noticed a rattle/knock coming from the right front when I drove over a bump or rough area.
I took it to a local tire/brake place that I have a good bit of confidence. After driving the car, the guy says, "You gotta bad strut!" Called FCP. They sent me a new strut. I installed it and sent the other back. Sounded a LOT better—for about two weeks. Now I am hearing the sound on both sides. I took it to a very reputable Volvo mechanic, I have used since the warranty expired. He drove it, confirmed the sound was not normal. We put it on the lift and he checked everything on the front suspension and was stumped. He said there was nothing wrong with my installation, no problem with the suspension.
Okay, FCP has an unconditional satisfaction guarantee, so I could replace these with a more expensive strut for say $50 more, but is the problem with the struts? I would hate to have to do this installation again and still have the same problem.
'03 C70 Convertible LT110,000 mileswell-maintained, great-running car
Prius Plug-in 2012-15 :: Mysterious Interior Light - Goes Off When Lights Are Switched To DRL Mode
What is this light and why is it always on for me? It's not referenced in the manuals, but I've noticed that whenever I'm in the car, it's on the entire time unless I switch my lights to DRL Off mode. When I get out and lock the doors, I think it goes off... but I'm also thinking it may have been the cause of my recent 12V battery drain.
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