Chevrolet - Lumina :: No Power To Start Car Occasionally

My car has started to on occasion not have any power when I turn key. I can try it several times and then poof, the power is there and it stars with no trouble. When I say no power, there is nothing, no dash lights no sound, Absolutely nothing!

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Oldsmobile - Start - Cutlass - Sparkplugs :: 1993 / 3.1 - No Spark Won't Start

Was running with a slight miss until reach 30 mph for about 5 days now this morning, turning over and over but won't start..checked 2 plug wires no spark to ground..how to fix and make start?

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Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1990 - Truck Stumbles When Start It

1990 chevy silverado 4x4... My truck stumbles when you start it and within 5 seconds or so clears up and runs smooth.. I changed the fuel filter , still the same result.

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Passat (B6) :: Front Engine Mount Broken - 2007 2.0T Sedan Crank But Won't Start

I have a 2007 Passat 2.0t Sedan. My wife broke the front engine mount this morning and now it will crank, but will not start. Put my code reader on it and it is throwing camshaft position sensor, misfire cyl. 4, fuel rail pressure low, and Mass Air Flow sensor codes. It looks like the insert of the mount is wedged against the belt. Would the engine mount being broken cause any of these codes for some reason? and would the mount against the belt cause it to not start?

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Chevrolet - Sparkplugs :: Check Engine Light On 1998 Malibu LS

After filling the gas tank yesterday, as I was on my way to work, the check engine light came on. For the last couple of days the temperatures outside have reached 118 degrees. I have checked the oil and coolant and have resealed the gas cap as well, yet the light still remains. The research I have done leads me to believe the problem may be the catalytic converter, but I'm wondering if there is any further troubleshooting I can do without heading to a mechanic.

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Lumina :: 1990 3.1 L Engine Misfire When Cold - Running Rough

I have a 1990 3.1L, multiport fuel injection (NOT sequential FI), which runs very well most of the time. However, when I cold start it runs rough (misfire) for about 1 minute (no throttle) or until acclerated. The is no misfire when running normal, but it might be running a little rough when stopped at a traffic light (in Drive, foot on brake).

I put new plugs and wires on, but it did not affect this problem.

I am not using coolant, or oil, the plugs that were removed were somewhat worn, enough that I expected to notice a difference after they were changed.

I have not yet (1) cleaned the MAF, (2) checked carefully for vacuum leaks, (3) checked for leaking injectors.

Since this is a 1990, OBDI, I can't say which cylinder is misfiring or how the fuel trims look etc.

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Lumina :: No Start - Turned Over Engine Will Chug But Won't Catch

I have a 99 Lumina 3.1l. I live in a cold climate (-15f). I hadn't driven the car in 2 months, and the block heater doesn't work as there is a short somewhere.

I want to get the car on the road again and before insuring it I tried to start it Friday. To its credit it started up almost right away - its always been great in the cold. I let it run for 30 minutes to heat everything up.

I insured it Saturday and went to start it and won't go. Turned over & over & over, and the engine will chug every now and then but won't catch. Its a few degrees colder than it was Friday, but not by much.

It did have just under a quarter tank of gas, so I'm wondering if it could be condensation in the fuel system somewhere that was sucked in while idling on Friday? If so I don't really know what to do about that. Or could there are other things to check/try.

I'm replacing the plug on the block heater, but don't think thats the short. I was going to drive it to the garage to have them replace the cord (as I doubt its the block heater itself) but have to get it started to do that

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Lumina :: Hard Start / Engine Cuts Off At Stop Lights

I was having real ruff idling problems for about 4 days, especially at stop lights. When I drive on the highway no problems. Starting the car was no problem.

I could hear whistling sounds while I idled it on my driveway, figured vacuum leak or pcv valve. I replaced the valve and the boot, but still had the problem.

I could still hear whistling sound then I noticed my pcv assembly hose was broken where it branches off to the intake. (See pic)

So I went to dealer and got the tubing. I installed it today. Now I try to start it and it sounds like it's not getting enough gas and it even turned off on me at the store. Once the car is on however, when I'm at a stop light the problem idling is gone.

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Civic - Honda :: 2002 - Engine Makes Bad Sound When Pushed In The Clutch To Start

I have a 2002 Honda civic (manual). Lately, when I have pushed in the clutch to start it, the engine makes a bad sound. It sounds similar to the sound an automatic would make when you turn the key while it is already running.

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Mazda - Protege - Smells - Sparkplugs :: 1990 - Rough Idle Stutter While Accelerating?

1990 Mazda Protege with a 1.8L DOHC, manual 5-spd transmission, ~173K miles on it. On my way home the other day, the car ABRUPTLY started to run very rough - with what I would call repetitive and incessant stuttering when accelerating (though I am by no means technical with respect to cars). I shut the car down, hoped the problem would go away, but when I started it up later that day, the problem was still there - the car BOTH idles rough and doesn't accelerate very smoothy. When I come to a stop, the car feels as if it's going to stall but stays running. This afternoon, I took it out on the road for ~3 mile drive (up to ~ 50 mph) and the problem is the same - but I did also notice, when driving, that the car gave off a smell reminiscent of firecrackers - perhaps a sulfur-ish smell. I googled the issues I was having and I got a whole array of problems - ranging from simply bad spark plug wires (which have been replaced in the past 1.5 years) to a stuck EGR valve .

Here's some additional info on my car: -Was just in the shop 2wks ago for overheating - found the thermostat to be bad - they replaced it and I no longer have the overheating issue. While there, they also replaced the belts for the alternator and water pump (Which had been squealing for quite some time) -Spark plug wires and distributor cap were both replaced in the last 1.5 years -Last oil change was > 6 months (but less than 3000 miles) ago - all the fluid levels seem to be fine -Though I think it is unrelated, the car is also making a high pitched squeaking noise emanating from the R front of the car while driving - I suspect this is the suspension-related as the shop informed me that I have one front stablizer link broken while the other is loose (and when I push down on the R-front side of car while it is not running it yields a similar squeaking noise.

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Ignition - Mitsubishi - Mirage - Sparkplugs :: Cranks Over But Will Not Start

Details. I was driving my car yesterday. It stop as i gave it fuel to go around a corner.Its a 95 mitsubishi mirage s manufacture october 94 in japan. Its a manual turned the key. Nothing but cranking and flooding. My friend came to take a look at it. no spark.I smelled fuel and have still almost half a tank which mean its pumping but no spark came from the ignition wire.I have replaced the rotor and am waiting on new ignition wires and distro cap. When i took off the distro cap I didn't see any visible cracks.

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Impala - Chevrolet :: 2009 - Remote Start Will No Longer Start Engine

2009 Impala, 54k, factory installed remote start will no longer start the engine.This problem just started with both remotes.When used in close proximity of the car this is what happens: 1st-attempt-I hear a short humming noise and lights flash, 2nd-attempt a click and lights flash, 3rd attempt (and there after)-no sound and no flash of lights.The remote lock/unlock feature with horn beep and lights flash works fine on both remotes.The car starts every time by key with no problem.Any thoughts of what may be wrong?

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Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Toyota S Turns Over But Won't Start (New Starter And Sparkplugs)

Toyota Corolla S 2009 Automatic 4 Door

Saturday I changed the starter because the old one was going out and I didnt want it to die so it was preventaive. Went to put in the sparkplugs but the dealer gave me the wrong ones, drove to the dealer and they pulled out one I had to check it and put it back in. (I had 9/16 long plugs, which is rare for my engine apparently.) I went to leave, and when I turned it over, nothing happened. I pulled the Key out, waited 5 seconds, started up. Went home, put in the sparkplugs and drove about 300 miles since Saturday and no problem.

Today I went to leave and the car turned over multiple times, after the 4th, it acted like it was starting but shut off and kept turning over.

First, I checked all the wires on the plugs and around them, even pulled all the plugs and put in the old ones. Same problem.

I unplugged the battery and hoped if it was a computer glitch that it would have fixed it. Same problem.

When I turn it over, the started keeps going and it will pretend to turn on for half a second and then keep turning over. I also smell raw gas when I get out of the car for a few seconds before it goes away.

The last time it did throw codes, but I have no reader. I have to wait for the neighbor to pull them. Is there anything I can test or check out? Everything as far as the wires and fuses look good. I am at a loss for where to go.

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Mazda - Sparkplugs :: 2000 Protege Won't Start After Timing Belt Change

2000 Mazda Protege 1.6l Just replaced timing belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, plugs and coil packs

I have checked the timing about 10 times before puting everything back together by rotating the engin clockwise. No stiff point and marks lining up perfectly every time.

Though when I turn the key in the ignition, the engine cranks but doesn't start.

Can't really check the sparks cause I am on my own, but seems like the spark plugs in 1 and 3 are wet with fuel and 2 and 4 are dry.

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Passat (B6) :: 2007 2.0T Sedan Will Not Start

My 2.0T Passat sedan will not start for 3 weeks now. It is at a dealer and they seem to be unsure what to do for it. I see there is alot of this issue with the 3.6 wagon, but is it a growing problem for the sedan as well? My service advisor indicated to me that there are several others at their shop with the same problem.

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Passat (B6) :: Vibration In Pedal And Engine While Stopped With Brake Pushed

Is it normal on the 2.0T that when you are driving and stop at a red light to get vibration that you can feel in the car and hear in the motor? As soon as you let off the break it stops and the engine stops the noise. I don't drive the car enough really (my wifes) to know if it is normal or if this just started. It is an 07 and just turned 12k on the weekend trip. Also, having a problem on Sat radio with there being a high pitch hum in the back ground? [IMG] [URL] ...

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Kia - Spectra :: Slowed Down When Pushed The Gas Pedal / White Powder On Engine

My car had slowed down when I pushed the gas pedal. I had to get towed. White powder was on the face of engine. Car will not crank. It makes a humming sound. Kia 2004 spectra ex....

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Civic - Honda :: 1998 Sedan Won't Start When Hot

I've got a 1988 Honda Civic Sedan. 151, 000 miles. Runs great,except when I have to stop for gas or I pop the clutch maladroitly to get going and kill the engine. Then it won't start up. It used to do it once or so every five times I stop to gas up. I don't drive it much and have to re-charge the battery every month or so--even the new battery. It started this herky-jerky thing last summer but the tow guy convinced me it was a bad gas problem. A gas additive seemed to clear it up, but not the starting problem.

Just last night I recharged the battery,let the engine run 15 minutes or so the next morning, then shut it down and tried to restart it; turned over but wouldn't start. In general, when it cools down about an hour or so later, it starts fine. So engine heat seems to cause it.I've giving up trying to gas up at the cheap stations. Instead I go to the local station two blocks away so I can push it aside and come back later to get it if it stalls. Could this be something simple I could fix?

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Miata :: 1990 Won't Start When Hot / Engine Keeps Turning Over But Doesn't Catch

So, as the title says, my Miata won't start when it's hot. The engine keeps turning over but doesn't catch, and I have to let it cool down for about 20 minutes before it will turn on again. When it does turn back on, it blows a ton of white smoke out the back and I can smell gas for about 5 min afterwards. I have replaced the spark plugs and the wiring for them, and the problem is still there.

Also, I can bump start the car with little to no difficulty. It runs ragged for a few minutes then it runs great. So, what's up.

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