Stalling - Electrical-wiring - Honda - Batteries :: Stuck On Hills / Mid Dash Lights Not Coming On
Yet again my honda is doing some new. My mid dash lights don't come on at all anymore (even when i start the car), my power drive and winter drive buttons don't work, I can't stop/start on a hill, I have to get 2rpms going to get anywhere, and my battery volts are over 12 when driving.
View 1 RepliesFord Wiring/Electrical :: 2001 F150 - Stalling Out During Idle Like Not Getting Enough Fuel
I have an 01' f150 that everything is going out on. I've replaced the GEM module thinking that's what it was to no avail. First thing to go was all four windows which have currently been stuck halfway down for 2 weeks. It's stalling out during idle like it isn't getting enough fuel to it. Brake and engine light on dash are staying on. Radio, interior lights won't come on. Will not come out of park once in. I have to do the old forward, back, middle key trick to get it out of park into neutral so I can start it and go. I've also checked all fuses and relays under dash and under Hood.
View 3 RepliesToyota - Supra :: Spits / Sputters And Misfire When Engine Is Cold
Car spits and sputters when engine is cold. When engine is warm car runs fine. I believe that my cold start injector or my cold start injector time switch is bad. 7MGE Toyota Supra ....
View 10 RepliesFord - Ranger :: 1998 Truck Spits And Sputters On Startup
Truck spits and sputters when it starts up..and now it does it more often New spark plugs, new fuel pump and filter New mass air flow. I changed fuel octain and that work for a few weeks and back it spits...... It seems that when I put something new in the truck it runs great for a few weeks and then it starts up again...... I can not find a fuel regulator that fits the one that is on the truck now......so I have not replaced it........
View 4 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Backfires / Spits And Sputters - Rough Idle
I've recently replaced the timing chains on my sons 04 F-150 5.4. Now I'm getting a code PO174. I've changed 2 coil packs, fuel filter, MAF sensor and cleaned all the connections. Fuel filter had what looked like brown fuel coming out of the in line of the filter. I'm stressed out now, the truck does not even have enough power to drive up the driveway. Backfires, spits and sputters, has rough idle.
View 4 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 5.4L - Spits And Sputters Suddenly Then Will Drive Normal
I have a 1999 f150 5.4L that will drive normal and all of a sudden it will spit and sputter, the CEL comes on for a second or two, then it’s all over and its back to running normal. I changed the plugs, and fuel filter and it still does it periodically. Vacuum leak?
View 4 RepliesChrysler - Towncountry :: 2006 - Engine Spits And Sputters After Running For 2 - 3 Minutes When Gas Tank Filled
I have a 2006 Town and Country with the 3.3L V6. The last four times I filled the gas tank the engine spits and sputters after running for 2 - 3 minutes. Sometimes it will even stall out. It will re-start after cranking for 4 - 5 seconds and then runs fine. It only does this right after I fill the tank and doesn't do it again until the next fill up. Thought that I might have water in the tank so I added a bottle of HEET to see if it would cure the problem, no effect at all..
View 4 RepliesFord Wiring/Electrical :: PCM Randomly Shifting - 0.04V Dither?
m having a really difficult time with my '95 7.3. Basically, the PCM is randomly shifting the transmission out and back into 4th with the TC locked. When I say randomly, I mean very randomly: sometimes once in a 100 miles, other times chronically, with no relation to weather, temps, incline, driving conditions, etc.
According to FORScan (using a high quality ODBLink SX USB cable) some sensors are showing a 0.04V dither (this is with the engine off, van immobile): I've already replaced the PCM ($$$) to no avail.
I'm truly lost as to what to try next. I'm about ready to drive this thing into a canyon. FORScan screen shot showing 0.04V spikes
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 5.4L - Intermittent Loss Of Power / Spits And Sputters
I have a 1999 f250 super duty with the 5.4 Triton motor with a 5 speed. I bought the truck a couple months ago, and it had a bad manifold leak (not surprised lol). but it ran fine just noisy. So i had a shop do new gaskets and bolts. Then my problems started.........
When you start up the truck she runs fine and some times drives fine. I will be driving along and its like some one hits a switch and i suddenly loose all power it spits and sputters and i have to down shift to make any kind of hill.
So I figures I had a misfire i got a light on for cylinder 5. So I decided to change all coils and plugs hoping that would clear things up...... well it didn't. It ran great for roughly 15 miles then it started to do the same thing again. I've changed air filter and fuel filter also.
When it starts sputtering i sometimes get a check engine light on and then it goes away. when the light is on the codes are:
P1151 A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.
Read more at: [URL] ....
P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2
Read more: P1152 FORD Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2 | AutoCodes
Both codes come on together always. but it will go away when the sputtering clears up. I just checked fuel pressure its at 32psi at a idle.
Ford Wiring/Electrical :: Battery Goes Dead Randomly Overnight
Earlier this year had dead battery after sitting for a week. 5 year old battery so bought new one battery still goes dead randomly (overnight), instead of playing radio for a few minutes after key off, dash displays "system off to conserve power" ran it thru local repair place (ex ford dealer) nothing found. Voltage 14v at 1800 rpm, lights on". STILL goes dead randomly...
View 6 RepliesStalling - Electrical-wiring - Hyundai - Sonata :: Stalled Suddenly When Idling
Weeks ago, I was waiting for someone with my car idling and suddenly it just stalled. The battery power was still on but the engine died. When I restart it, it starts up but then dies after a few seconds. After trying 3-4 times it no longer starts. I had it towed to the repair shop and by the time they went to look at it, it started up just fine. A few days later I was driving (like 1 min from my house) and the car engine died, again the battery was still working. Power steering was gone. I coasted off the road and tried to start it--again it would start up and then die and then after a few tries it no longer starts. I had it brought to the repair shop. Again, it started fine for them but they changed out the battery just to see. I also had fuel cleaner put in the gas tank.
Just to be safe, I brought it to a dealer since my normal mechanic couldn't find anything. At the dealership they ran codes and didn't find any. They said that sometime the lines to the cams or crank get corroded but that mine looked fine. Since it wasn't doing it for them, they didn't have any other recommendations. Everything has been fine for the last few weeks and then I went to start my car last night. It started fine even though it's really cold and hasn't been driven in a few days. While I was scraping the car, I could hear the engine turn off. When I re-started it the same pattern happened--restarted the first few times and then died and then wouldn't even start. I don't even know what to do at this point since it only seems to happen close or at home and not for repair places.
Ford Wiring/Electrical :: Wiring 2008 Seats In 2001 Model?
Let me start by saying electrical is something I really have no knowledge of....(never used any kind of an elec meter and don't have one) simple, Pos-grd and fuse, NP. I really don't want to fry something in these expensive new seats w/my normal trial and mostly ERROR!
The 08 (drivers) seat has 4 wires in the input clip.
GRN-RED (heavy gauge)
BLK-PURP (heavy gauge
BLU-RED
BLK-WHT
and my 01 whip out of the floor has a 3 wire setup.
GRN (heavy gauge)
BLK (heavy gauge)
BRN-BLU
I can wire PS side seat from fuse box and ground it NP. It only has a 2 wire set-up in the new seat.
Ford - Explorer :: 2001 - Starts Then Sputters / Dies And Won't Restart Again?
I have been having issues with my 2001 sports trac 4x4 v6 sohc fuel in. 132k mileage. The problem is I can jump in and it will start first try, fuel pump is heard activating, idle is rough, feels like truck is about to die, pumping on the gas usually causes it to catch and smooth out......after 10 mins. or sometimes less than that truck starts to sputter, step on throttle it dies faster, sometimes when stepping on the throttle before it dies and a truck is able to rev up and then back to idle and not die.
But most times stepping on the gas when it begins to sputter after running for 10 mins or so causes it to die once it dies it doesn't start back up and when key is turned on and off, no fuel pump activation noise. I have scantool data take off an autel 619 saved to notebook text format. Those are my numbers for the scan tool, suggestions I have gotten so far are vacuum leak, failing fuel pump, bad o2 sensors, bad MAF.......so far replaced fuel filter and cleaned MAF....no difference.
Electrical-wiring - Mercury - Mountaineer :: Instrument Cluster Has Been Randomly Failing
The instrument cluster in my 2005 Mountaineer has been randomly "failing" for about 2 months. By "failing", I mean the gauges will go to zero and bounce, the dash lights will go on and off, and the radio will go out. The car will continue driving normally. Headlights stay on, windows work, cruise works, interior lights work. This random event lasts about 4 seconds. It may do it again within minutes, or not again for the day. Sometimes, when I open the car door to get in (keys not in ignition), I will notice the gauges are bouncing at the zero mark. I took it to the shop, but of course it didn't do it there. They checked the alternator and battery. Battery is old, but checked out. A few weeks later, complete Alternator failure. Replaced the battery and alternator and I hoped that would solve the dash issue, but it did not. I've had it to the dealership, and to an independent, and their not sure what's up with it. The code readers give no insight.
View 8 RepliesElectrical-wiring - Batteries - Cadillac - Deville :: Car Randomly Losing 100% Electric Power
Was driving one day, and when I came to a stop sign, the car just died.. I couldn't start it up, so I pushed it to the side of the road.. I tried to turn the key again, and it fired right up... No issues for about a week, but then I came outside one morning, and the car was completely dead. No interior lights, dash wouldn't light up, nothing. (no cranking noise when you try to turn the key) I assumed it was because the battery was old, and the car had just been sitting there for about a week without being started up. I was about to give it a jump, but when I opened the door, the lights came on. I put the key in the ignition, the dash lit up, and the car fired right up.. No issues for about a week, until again, came outside, car was completely dead..
I used my other car to run up to the store, and when I came back, decided I would try to start up the DeVille again. Randomly, upon opening the door, the cabin lights lit up, and sure enough, car fired right up... no one had touched the car while I was gone.. I drove the car up to a shop near my house, where they tested the battery, which tested good. Terminals are all clean, and he made note that the ground connection to the car was also firm and clean. He offered to run a diagnostic the following Tuesday for $125. I returned home, drove the car once more over the weekend, but when I went to start the car Monday, it was again, completely dead. It's been over a week now, and I haven't been fortunate enough to get it to start. I again tried this morning in hopes that I would get lucky, but it's still completely dead.
Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2003 F150 Keeps Blowing Fuses Under Dash Randomly
2003 f150 supercrew with 166,000 on it. Daily driver. Keeps randomly blowing 10A fuse under dash that controls ABS4X4 urn signals. No routine causes. Just blows at random times. Fuses were blowing instantly upon replacing then stopped. Doesn't blow when turning switches for turn signals or when turning it to 4x4. Just does it randomly. Sometimes will go months without blowing. Tore dash apart and can't find any wiring issues there. Could be somewhere else? Is ABS4X4. Turn signals going bad?
View 6 RepliesToyota - Electrical-wiring - Corolla :: Dies For Few Seconds When Turn On High-beams After Driving For A While
I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla CE manual transmission with 431,000 (not a typo) miles on it. About 7 weeks ago I noticed that when I turn on my high-beams after driving for awhile, the car dies for a few seconds. All lights go out, radio stops, engine stops and then it starts up again as if nothing happened. It will just do it once in about a half-hour time frame. I can switch the high-beams on and off repeatedly afterwards and it doesn't do it again. I have to drive for about a half-hour before it will do it again. I usually hear a slight pop sound when it does it.
A month later I noticed that if I parked it after driving for awhile, like at a gas pump, and get back in it, it acts as if the battery is dead for a few seconds. If I step on the clutch or open and close the driver door, the car comes back on. It appears that the battery was disconnected. The CD pops out of the player and all the radio station settings are gone. One morning last week I got in, and it had happened during the night. The CD was out, station settings gone, and the clock was 6.5 hours off.
I have had the car to a Toyota repair center 3 times. They have checked fuses, battery, battery cables, grounds, alternator, tensioner, looked for rodent nests, squirrels and I don't know what-all, etc. They can't find what is wrong. I am scared to drive it, but I depend on it. I commute 200 miles/day. I won't leave anything important in the car because I am afraid it will catch fire. I am scared I am going to have a wreck, too, with no lights and no power steering suddenly.
Stalling - Electrical-wiring :: 1992 Buick Century - Replaced Throttle Position Sensor Still Stalls Out
SO, my Buick has given the code for bad TPS, and it was replaced a little over a year ago...and now after the same symptoms, replaced again.. However, this time, right after replacing, it gave the code again, and still stalls out /doesn't want to stay running especially when put in gear. My regular mechanic also recently just put on a new catalytic converter and a new fuel pump and fuel filter. I'm at a loss, and desperately need my car back.
A little back history...about 3 years ago a 'friend' was to work on my car to install the thermostat and power washed the engine...which shortly after started having all kinds of electrical issues. Right after that, my mechanic had to install a coil, spark plugs, new ignition panel and the 1st tps.
Civic - Honda :: 1989 - Engine Randomly Dies Usually While Driving
My 1989 Honda Civic engine randomly dies usually while driving. When it dies I hear a relay click sound coming from the area of the glove box. The tachometer and speedometer go immidiately to 0. The dashboard indicator lights all go out. The turn signals windshield wipers and electric windows all quit working, but the emergency flashers, radio, and comfort system blower continue to work. I think the transmission goes immediately into neutral too because deceleration is much slower than it would be if the engine were running and I take my foot off the accelerator. So far I have always been able to restart the engine and continue driving, though it often takes many tries before it will successfully restart and keep running.
In an unsuccessful restart the engine will fire and start to rev up but die again as soon as I release the key from the Start position. Occasionally the engine will spontaneously restart while we are coasting to a stop. We took it on a long trip this summer and it would almost always work fine until we stopped for gas, food or restroom break. After the break it would die one to three times in the first 5 miles and then would work fine until the next break. My mechanic says the computer is not storing any failure codes and he is having a hard time troubleshooting it because the problem only randomly occurs. I'm wondering if the problem might be a flaky electrical connector somewhere.