Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2003 - Air Conditioning Failed Abruptly / Not Blowing Cold

The stock air conditioning system in my 2003 Echo failed abruptly last week. The air no longer blows cold when the system is turned on. I've also noticed that the engine "hum" no longer changes frequency (gets lower because of what I assume is the added load) when I turn the A/C on. I checked the fuse and it looks intact.

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Dodge - Grandcaravan :: 2008 - Air Conditioning Went Out Completely

After 5 recalls on my 2008 Dodge Caravan (3 of which mentioned air conditioning), the air conditioning went out completely. All the estimates to fix it fall in the $800+ range to replace the rear evaporator. After telling one service manager that I'll just drive with the windows down, he informed me that I would be damaging the van and could cause other problems by not getting it fixed.

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Hyundai - Sonata :: Power Steering Failed Completely As Going Over 50 Mph On Off Ramp To Freeway

A little over 18 months ago I noticed that my steering wheel seems to catch when I am making a slight turn such as on and off a freeway. It doesn't have the same issue when I am making hard right/left turns. I didn't worry about it until one day, two of my children in the car, the power steering failed completely as I was going over 50 mph on the off ramp to the freeway. I was able to control the car and avoid an accident and drove the car about 1 mile to the grocery store, which was my original destination.I went inside for about an hour and when I came out the car was fine. It has only had one other similar failure in 18 months but I commonly feel the catch of the steering wheel when I am exiting the freeway. What I mean by a catch is that it feels as though I would have to jerk the steering wheel to be able to turn more sharply because it has turned as far as it is able to go. I have taken it to 2 Mechanics including the dealership and neither can recreate my problem.

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Saab - 9000 :: 1992 - Loud Grinding Noise When Try To Put In 5th Gear

I recently bought a manual 92 saab, and in the past few days I have been having trouble with the 5th gear. The fluids are all fine and I have not put any real strain on the trans since I've had the car. It worked fine when I bought it but now when I try to put it in 5th there is a loud grinding noise as I let the clutch out. The shifter then pops back into neutral. I tried holding the shifter in 5th to see if that would work, and as I release the clutch the grinding noise gets louder and the gear does not engage at all. I am really hoping it is just a worn down part, and doesn't need a complete transmission overhaul.

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Honda - Accord :: 1992 - Failed Emissions Test High NOX

My 1992 Honda Accord failed the emission test today for a too high NOX reading. The applicable standard is 2.50 and my car's reading was 2.61. I've read that high NOX has something to do with a malfunctioning EGR valve. Will replacing the EGR valve guarantee that I pass the emissions test? I don't want to start throwing money at all kinds of parts.

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BMW - 325i :: Air Conditioning Blowing Hot Air

Last summer, my air conditioning was blowing hot air. I took it to the mechanic where they added refrigerant. It worked. Last week, it was blowing coolish warm air on the driver side and warm air on the passenger side. I took it to the same mechanic where they added refrigerant. Now, it blows very cold air on the driver’s side and cool air on the passenger’s side. I inquired about a leak, but they said that they didn’t see one, but I could take it back in a couple weeks where they could run a dye to determine whether there really is a leak. They also mentioned that I might need to bring it every year to have refrigerant added.

I read a few articles and have concerns that they would just add refrigerant, (especially a second time) without determining the root cause of the problem. I’m also wary that they would suggest bringing it back every year and at a cost of $110, especially when I read that an unrepaired leak could have an adverse impact on other related components. Prior to reading this I was thinking of adding coolant myself every year for closer to $35. I’m also wondering why the driver’s side is blowing colder air than the passenger’s side and whether there could be a larger issue than just a leak.

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Passat (B5) :: Air Conditioning - Vents Hiss When AC Is On

Air Conditioning issues, vents 'hiss' when the A/C is on ... So we just bought an 04 B5.5V TDI and when we were test driving the car, I didn't actually notice this issue since we didn't do extensive driving and I wasn't listening for this problem specifically.

So basically what I found after the purchase is that the a/c is not very strong at all... even full bore and the vents have a hiss, hissing, whine, moan coming from them.

The minimal troubleshooting I have done was just to try to determine, while at idle from inside the car... when the noise was happening. What I have come up with is this.

If the AC switch is off, I can turn the fan on to any speed and the noise will not present itself.
If the AC switch is on, going from fan stopped to speed 1, about 70% of the time the hissing will not present.
If the AC switch is on, going to any of the faster fan speeds (2+) and center vents begin to hiss at me.

Once the hissing is happening, turning the fan speed back 1 will not stop the hissing.

The hissing slows and stops when the fan is turned off or the AC switch is turned off.

The hissing does not sound like a fan rubbing. Its not quite a mechanical sound like a bad bearing or debris hitting the fan.

The hissing sounds a little bit like someone blowing through a straw. However, the fan seems to move up and down the speed range just as expected and the air output seems to match the speed... so its not like the air movement is low.

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Honda - Fit :: 2011 - How To Do Air Conditioning Preservation

On my previous cars (1992 Mercury Tracer and 1995 Taurus) the air conditioning eventually went out. That has me thinking about how to keep it going for as long as possible in my new car (2011 Honda Fit). My theory is that by not putting the temperature on the lowest setting, and not running the fan speed past the 2nd setting, that the system will go longer before needing to be replaced. Am I right?

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Phaeton :: Location Of Air Conditioning Condensation?

Where the condensation from the air conditioning goes? I found some "liquid" in my garage on the left side of the car about two feet from the front left tire. I am hoping it's from the air conditioning.

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GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Don't Have Any Cruise / Air Conditioning?

I do not have any cruise or air conditioning, the chime for the emergency brake is not coming on when you pull the brake and if you push the recirculate button for the air/ heat. the brake light comes on dash. I checked all the grounds I could find, I do not have power on either side of the five amp fuse marked air conditioning

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Kia - Spectra :: 2004 - Air Conditioning And Heat Will Not Come On

I have a 2004 Kia Spectra (it is actually a 04/05 split year that generally takes the 05 parts) and when we turn on the car, sometimes the air conditioning/heat doesn't work. I can feel a little cold/warm coming out, but when I turn it higher nothing blows out at all. I can sometimes get it to work properly after driving for like 5 minutes on the highway with the radio off. Other times it turns on right away, but if I stop at the store and turn off the car, the next time it will stop working. What could be causing this?

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Saturn - Vue :: 2006 - Air Conditioning Not Really Working

As summer hit WI, I noticed that the a/c did not really work. At most it takes the humidity out of the cabin air and it does blow somewhat cooler air when the car is driving vs. idling. Our mechanic added freon and a dye to try and trace the problem. The added freon worked for about 2 weeks (but still not back to working like regular) and then it petered out.

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Touareg :: Air Conditioning Blows Hot Air When Outside Temp Above 88

The AC blows very cold as long as the outside temp is 88-87 and cooler. As soon as it goes over 89 or so, the air rapidly warms eventually blowing what feels like air HOTTER than the outside ambient. No matter if i shut it down or blow warm air it will not restart until the temperature outside drops below the magic mark (so i dont think the coil is freezing over)... and then it blows frigid air. I don't think it is low refrigerant because of the efficiency at cooler temps and the nearly exact outside temp it changes. It is as if a sensor is activated and nothing but a temperature drop changes its status. It is so predictable that to me it sounds like a sensor or kill switch that is activated. One fan was out. had it replaced and still have the problem. This has been going on all summer and VW stamps everything "could not replicate". 2004 touareg vs 80k miles (with plenty of troubles along the way)....

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S-10 :: 2000 Chevy Blazer - No Air Conditioning Just Keeps Blowing Out Hot Air

Okay I am having a problem with my A/C in my Blazer I've had my compressor replaced finally got all of my leaks fixed and replaced all the visible vacuum hoses and still without by passing my heater core I have no Air Conditioning. It just keeps blowing out hot air. Why my Air Conditioner is working. I really like my blazer but after having invested a little over 600.00 into just getting the A/C up and going with no luck is just getting frustrating. I am considering selling it and getting a truck. I would like to keep it if I can get the A/C up and going but I don't want to have to invest a whole lot more money into it.

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Touareg :: Slight Whistle When Air Conditioning Is Turned On

My 05 V8 has developed a slight whistle when the air conditioning is turned on and the fan speed is high. This only seems to happen when the system is taking in outside air. If it is recirculate mode, the whistle goes away. It also goes away if you manually turn the fan speed down. My assumption is that something may be caught in the intake.

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Air Conditioning Clutch Not Engaging

Here's the story: was on my way downtown last night to get a new suit (I'm in Savannah, GA so it's hot) and AC was working great. The Jetta (2003 AWP) is a stock-everything-1.8T that has never had any AC work done to it from the day I bought it new. I figured it was doing just fine so just leave it alone. Anyway, leave the suit shop (bought a gray three-piece) and go back to the parking lot, start up and get ready to leave, no cold air from the vents. I get it home and do some reading on here and also in the Bentley manual and get into some preliminary troubleshooting. Here's what I have so far:

- Engine running/AC button ON/Blower on "3"/Recirculation OFF/Engine at operating temperature
- Turn blower ON - visually verified that clutch is not engaged and compressor is not spinning
- Shut car off, compressor does turn by hand easily
- With AC button on and blower on, passenger side cooling fan (behind radiator) is ON but driver side cooling fan IS NOT on - I think this indicates a problem from what I've read
- Checked cabin fuses 5, 16, & 25. All have low resistance (good continuity) and are not discolored. Just to make sure I scuffed the contacts with a scotchbrite pad and reinstalled them
- Same deal for the top-of-the-battery power distribution block. All fuses checked okay and were scuffed and reinstalled
- Moved on to the pressure switch/pressure sensor. My vehicle has the 3-pin sensor so jumping contacts is not a possibility. I need to rent/buy a duty cycle meter to check it. Any good tutorial on how to do this? Do I disconnect the connector and check it right at the switch or must I break out the wires and check it in parallel with the connector attached to the sensor?
- I grabbed a flat-head screwdriver and gave the high-pressure and low-pressure service valves a poke and got a good blast of pressure from them so I don't think the system is empty.
- Did a little more reading and found I needed to check voltage at the 3-pin connector on top of the battery power distribution block. I did this with the key ON - no power at any of the pins. Repeated with key ON and engine running with AC button ON and blower ON - still no voltage. For these measurements, the connector was DISCONNECTED. Does this matter? Do I need to have it plugged in to get voltage there (i.e., read the voltage from the rear of the connector with it installed?)
- Finally, and perhaps most enlightening, I suspected I may simply be low on R134a so I bought a can with a pressure gauge on it. Connected it to low-pressure side with engine running, AC button ON, blower on "4", recirculation OFF. The gauge read ~150 PSIG. Yes, this seems high to me too; however, the compressor is still not turning at this point. Does it need to turn to get a good pressure reading from the LP service valve? I recall from everything I read that if pressure is too low, the clutch won't engage, and if pressure is too high, the clutch won't engage

So, as far as I can tell I have a few problems...

1. The driver side fan doesn't run when AC button is ON
2. No voltage at the 3-pin connector on the battery power distribution block Incorrect methods...there is voltage there.
3. Low-pressure side of the AC system is too high Called and checked with a local mechanic...I won't receive correct pressures if the compressor is not turning.

My next steps are to check the voltage at the compressor connector for 12VDC. I suspect I'll get 0V because it's clearly not turning. I'll do this once I can figure out how to get the dang connectors apart without breaking them. 11-year-old heat fatigued plastic is brittle...

Finally got the compressor connector apart.. there is 12VDC on pin 1 and 0VDC on pin 2 (it's a ground, so there shouldn't be..ground continuity check good). Ohmed out the clutch...from what I can tell, that circuit is open. However, I am not 100% sure I was on the contacts because of how the connector is positioned. I'm going to get a dummy connector from a salvage yard and connect it up and make sure I have good contact before I call it a bad clutch.

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Prius (2004-09) :: Air Conditioning Works Intermittently

2006 Prius with 58,000 miles. Drive in San Diego and Palm Springs. Earlier this year, the A/C would just cut off, maybe about once a week. The control panel indicated the A/C should be on, but absolutely no function. Drive around for 20 minutes, and all of a sudden, it would come on and work perfectly. It is starting to happen on a daily basis now...sometimes it won't work from start, other times it just cuts out while driving. I can park the car and shut the car off with the A/C working, then come back 30 minutes, and no A/C. It doesn't seem to matter which setting is selected. The control panel accepts all commands, but no function changes when the A/C has shut itself off. Loose connection somewhere? It works about 90% of the time, and blows very cold. When it shuts itself off, no air passes through the vents at all.

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Air Conditioning Almost Stalls At Idle

I had just picked my car up from the shop after getting a new 3" downpipe installed (welded to stock cat) and attached to stock catback exhaust. I mention this because I never had this problem before and have already had installed a TIP, boost hose kit, DV, larger intercooler, and breather hose kit, all for a Unitronic Stage 2 tune.

So I go to turn on the A/C and the idle drops to about 400 rpm, almost stalls, interior shudders, vacuum jumps from about 20 to 10 as the engine revs itself a bit, and then it settles back out and the car runs fine (awesome with the new tune) and A/c works great. I have used the A/C a bit since getting all other upgrades done and never had a problem, or I didn't notice, but I'm wondering why a new downpipe would make a difference. I tried turning it on and off a few more times and the same things happened at idle, but after that initial dip and near-stall the engine was just fine around town and on the highway.

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Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Air Conditioning Pressure Readings

What should the A/C high and low side pressure readings be for a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe SE?

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