Oldsmobile - Bravada :: 1997 - Suddenly Bogging Down - Not Shifting Well
I have a 1997 Olds Bravada with 170K miles. Engine was running fantastic up until three weeks ago. Suddenly engine is "bogging" down and transmission is shifting between gears at certain speeds (like it can't decide---usually around 40mph). Replaced catalytic converter because mechanic said it was plugging. Now engine seems even worse---it feels like it is working really hard, like the brakes are stuck on or like it is pulling a really heavy load. Gas mileage is worse. Trans is still not shifting right...at 40 and 50 mph it can't "decide" what gear to be in and switches back and forth, and at higher speeds it has slight hesitations, like it's "missing" or not getting fuel for a split second. Mechanic said it needs a tune up.
Background: Replaced transmission one year ago with remanufactured trans (could all-wheel drive be stuck "on"?). Replaced catalytic converter. Also just had A/C recharged and began using it about one week before these troubles began. I have stopped using the A/C in case it was related, but the problems have continued.
Oldsmobile - Cutlass :: 1995 - Intermittent Stalling / Shudders And Stalls Upon Restart
I drive a 1995 olds Supreme 3.1 that has 125,000 miles. It runs like a dream but I have been having one problem I cannot pinpoint a solution for. When started cold, it runs and drives perfectly all day long, no problem. However once it reaches operating temperature and is shut off for a short period of time, it shudders and stalls upon restart. Then it does not restart until the engine is cool. The problem has been intermittent and not as much of an issue during the winter, but as spring approaches I worry it may become a bigger problem.
It has had a recent tune up: new spark plugs, wires, radiator, hoses, fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter, and water pump. This issue existed before all these parts were replaced.
Oldsmobile - Bravada :: Check Engine Light Came On
sears says my emmision won't pass because my check engine light will not come on when starting engine but it does go on when you only turn to the on position
View 2 RepliesOldsmobile - Bravada :: 2002 - Gas Smell In Cabin
Recently have developed a strong gas smell in my 2002 Olds Bravada. I have checked around getting no where fast I have been told the culprit maybe the fuel pressure regulator but with the engine running and I am under the hood. There is no odor there is no odor outside the vehicle at all only inside...
View 16 RepliesOldsmobile - Bravada :: 1998 - Hesitate On Accelerating?
I've been commuting roughly 100 miles round trip daily for work for the past month or so and other than the need for an oil change (I'm at about 6,000 since the last one, current mileage is 171900), my 98 Bravada has been fine. However, this evening when I was about half-way home, I noticed the car was getting a little resistance on accelerating.
I had wondered if it was the wind and rain I was driving through, but the tachometer was jumping regularly, it was in the lower ranges (between 1-2, maybe a jump to 3). I was still able to maintain speed (up to 60mph, and a struggle to get to 65 - somewhat unusual) - however there was noticeable resistance to acceleration. Once I got home I noticed that the temp gauge was showing less than 150 and the oil was fluctuating between 1/4 and 1/2.
Oldsmobile - Bravada :: 2000 - No Acceleration When Driving And Press The Gas
I have a 2000 oldsmobile bravada. When I'm driving i press the gas and it does not accelerate. The engine revs but it does not go. Then it will engage and will drive fine. What the problem is?
View 1 RepliesOldsmobile - Bravada :: 2000 - Front End Shake After Changing Tie-rod
I drive a 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada. I just changed the outer tie-rod (passenger side),and there is still a fairly good shake coming from the front end. I have checked everything that comes to mind (true, not too sound a mind). My question is, how would i check the steering gear box?
View 2 RepliesOldsmobile - Bravada :: 2001 - Randomly Shuts Off While Driving
When driving down the road, usually at speeds greater than 55 mph and usually in hotter weather, the vehicle will just shut off. Temp gauge stays firmly in the normal range, coolant level is fine. The vehicle will eventually restart after 5-20 minutes before repeating it's little 'siesta mode'.(It turns over, just won't start) I've been all over the internet and can find dozens upon dozens of identical problems in 1998-2002 Bravada, BUT NEVER A SOLUTION! There are suggestions from wiring shorts to fuel pump to the temperature sensor to PCM - but nobody has the courtesy to get back online and post if they ever found what the actual problem was. I can only surmise that either people just don't feel like posting the solution, or they are still trying to figure it out (which doesn't bode well for me).
View 3 RepliesOldsmobile - Bravada :: 2002 Will Not Start Or Even Attempt To Turn Over
I have a 02 bravada that will not start, or even attempt to turn over. The battery is new, all the interior light are on, headlights work and radio is fine. When turning the key there's nothing though??? What could be causing this???
View 8 RepliesOldsmobile - Bravada :: 1999 - Starter Does Not Turn While Key Rotates To Start
99 Bravada 4.3L. Key rotates to start but the starter does not turn. I can remove the starter relay and jump it and it starts right up, swapped relay with another one and same thing. Car has an aftermarket remote starter that does NOT cut any wires, only ties into them. The remote starter is seeing the starter voltage from the key, but no signal is making it to the relay under the hood. The relay has 12v+, a ground, the starter post, and the post from the key, nothing happens with a test light with the other end grounded or connected to 12v+.
Second problem happened at the same time, maybe related. The floor shifter will not move when I step on the brake with the key 'on or off'. I removed the boot and move the little white lever and it will shift, but not like it should. All fuses are good both under the hood and inside and it.
Oldsmobile - Bravada :: 2000 - Runs But Won't Move / Coasting Backwards
We pulled out of the parking garage going up the hill it acting like i was in neutral all of a sudden. it was running fine but i was coasting backwards. After checking the tranny fluid it was mostly gone so as my wife and kid sat in the still running car I went for fluid. I put in in and then drove up that hill went around the corner and it did it again. Then i got towed home. When its cold it works when I drive a little this happens. Its on all gears and no matter how much gas I give it there is no attempt at shifting and no weird noises.
View 14 RepliesOldsmobile - Bravada :: Cranks Good / Can Hear The Fuel Pump But It Doesn't Fire Up
Sometimes my Bravada won't start. It cranks good (new battery) and I can hear the fuel pump , but it doesn't fire up. I just got it back from the repair shop.?
View 4 RepliesPassat (B5) :: 1997 VR6 Stalls Or Stutters Hard After Clutch Drop
Just started doing it last week some time and only happens when I am launching it from stop or grabbing gears hard.
This is a little idea on whats happening.. At stop light next to some random ricer.. maintaining 2500 rpms on tach
drop (stage 4) clutch on green
Car squeaks and dies out like a stall and dash lights flash as well as lights on controll/radio area (around abs light) radio shuts off like a stall.
Touareg :: 2004 - Low Voltage / Key Battery Not Found Error Message
2004 V8 Touareg. Was getting all the "low voltage" error messages. "workshop fault" "headlight adjust" "brake system". Then one day I used my second key and get a "Key Battery not Found" message.
Dealer says the "low voltage" error messages have to be reprogrammed out of the computer and cannot be simply cleared. FYI I have a vagcom. They say there is no fix and I can either pay for a new battery or come back in to have them reprogram when they come up again. Is this true? New battery makes no sense to me as the battery is only two yrs old. Seems like quite the hassle as any cold weather and not starting up the car for a couple of days and I got to make a trip to the dealer. Is there a fix for this?
"Key Battery not Found"- Never saw this message until I used my second key. It obviously has a key battery since it opens the doors. Dealer is stumped and they wanted me to pick up the vehicle telling me that it was fine and the message didn't mean anything.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 - Intermittent Drop In The Idle From 700 To About 500 RPM
I have a 2001 F150 with the 4.6 engine. I get an intermittent drop in the idle from 700 RPM to about 500 RPM. The computer catches it quickly and brings the idle back up. It might drop several times and clear up or it might not happen at all. Seems only to happen on a hot engine, never when cold and in gear, if in park or neutral seems to idle ok. Changed the idle air control valve but no different. Runs fine except for the idle dropping when stopped.
Never get a check engine light, and no codes from the computer when I had it checked. Could this be the vapor management valve turning on?
Oldsmobile - Bravada :: 2000 - Flashing CEL Whenever RPMs Are Over 2000
My C.E.L. (check engine light) flashes whenever the rpms are over 2000. I had it plugged in and the code was for "random cylinder misfire" all this was after I changed plugs, wires, rotor and dist.cap. What is going on? Its a 2000 olds bravada.
View 3 RepliesOldsmobile - 88 :: 1997 - Intermittent Hesitation Speed At Highway Speed
I have a 1997 Oldsmobile 88 (174K miles, owned only by my father-in-law and then me) with which I am experiencing a hesitation problem from time to time at highway speed. My mechanic has taken the car on several highway test drives throughout the last two days, and he has been unable to reproduce the problem. Furthermore, he has done a full diagnostic test and found no problems with the fuel system, ignition system, or anything else.
Here are the conditions under which the problem occurs:
---Attempting to accelerate gradually at highway speed (usually from 50-60 mph), but WITHOUT pushing the gas pedal down so far as to cause the transmission to downshift
---Engine fully warmed up (temp gauge at 200 F or just below)
---Occurs more often when I have been driving for at least 1-2 hours
The condition is as follows:
---Car lurches/surges noticeably and does not accelerate
---Speedometer needle reflects the lurching by fluctuating up and down about 1 to 2 mph
---Accelerates well if I step down hard enough to cause the transmission to downshift, or stops surging if I lift off the gas pedal
---NO Check Engine light at any time
Some history on the car and corrective actions taken:
---June 2009: My mother-in-law was driving the car about 6 hours into our trip and it consistently hesitated between 50 and 55 mph with the Check Engine light on for the last 30 miles or so of our trip. The next day, we took the car to the dealer where my in-laws had their cars serviced (note the past tense here), where they told us that "there's probably something wrong inside the transmission" and suggested that we replace the transmission with a new one. This transmission is the second new one the car has had (replaced the first time at 95K miles), meaning that this transmission had less than 80K miles at the time. We took the car to a local shop at the referral of a friend, and this mechanic suggested we try flushing the transmission fluid and replacing the filter to see if that would fix the problem before we started talking about replacing the whole transmission. This worked, and we were glad that we did not have to get rid of the car. Did not notice any more problems with this for over a year.
---May 2010: Experienced engine misfire, had spark plug wires replaced. Problem solved.
---March 2011: First noticed my current problem. Had fuel filter replaced (it was probably a little overdue) and had the mechanics do a fuel system cleaning.
---April 2011: Problem still occurs.
---Had throttle body thoroughly cleaned, which fixed a slight sticking in the gas pedal.
---Replaced spark plugs myself. Car running more smoothly overall, but the hesitation still occurs.
---Inspected all three ignition coil packs myself. Top coil pack had some rust on the poles, which caused the resistance to measure as zero. Cleaned most of the rust off the poles, after which all three packs bench tested at 6.23 (with 20000 ohm setting on multimeter). Car runs even more smoothly overall, but hesitation persists.
At this point, my mechanic and I are both stumped as to what could be causing the hesitation problem. My only thought right now is to try replacing the one coil pack that had rust on it, since a pack with a fault I can see may have others inside that I can't see, and maybe something like this is flaking out on an intermittent basis.
Golf IV R32 :: Voltage Drop From Inline Fuel Pump
So I moved my Walbro to the engine bay and reran my wires. Now I couldn't find the most detailed DIY to use for reference but I ran a 20A circuit breaker from terminal 75x under the dash. From there an inline relay that I believe is hooked up correctly.
So I noticed my fuel pump wasn't running while the car is running. It wasn't even priming so I started checking connections and what not. I then noticed that when my power wire is connected to the pump I only read about 4V on the pump. If I disconnect the line and test it with no load applied I get 12-13V steady.
I thought maybe my pump had gone bad but if I apply 12v straight to it it runs just fine.
So my question is WTF!? Electronically this doesn't make sense. Physically it makes no sense. I moved the wires from one side of the car to the other. Nothing changed. Why would I be losing so much voltage with the load applied?
Phaeton :: 2004 - Voltage Drop When Coming To A Stop
2004 W12 nearing 78k miles
Recently I've been experiencing a strange voltage drop when coming to a stop. The voltage gauge on the dash cluster indicates a solid 14v when in drive however when I come to stop (still in drive) the voltage will slowly drop to 12v suggesting the alternator is no longer charging the battery or something.
I've read other places that there can sometimes be issues with the battery controller, would this be a potential symptom of that? I've never had a dead battery or anything like that. I also installed HID fog lights recently which could be related to this issue, considering removing them entirely..
I'm also wondering if it could be related to a strange clicking noise coming from the engine bay somewhere, possibly my alternator is dying, plastic guides getting worn on the timing chain?
I'm hoping this is a simple case of needing the serpentine belt to be replaced and "slipping" when at a stop or something. Is there any way to examine the belt without moving the bumper to the service position?