Ford - Taurus :: 2007 Bucks In A Snow Storm
I have a 2007 Taurus and for all intents in purposes the car runs great, expect during a snow storm. I drive 30 miles on the hwy too and from work. During a snow storm no matter how bad or if snow is blowing or on the ground my car bucks. I don't know how else to explain it. It is like the transmission is slipping but I know that it isn't because it happens for only a split second. It almost seems like the car wants to shut-off or the brakes are grabbing. This will happen the entire way to work or home every few miles but only during a snow event.
View 5 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2012 F350 Misfiring When Driving During A Snow Storm
While driving into town during a recent snowstorm, my truck started to misfire quite badly. The check engine light started to flash and then remained on as I went to the auto parts store. The code indicated cylinder two misfire. I don't a few things of dry gas in the tank and let it run for a few minutes which seem to solve the problem.
Since then, however,every time the engine gets even a little bit wet it starts to bark again. It usually lasts a few minutes then goes back to normal. Typically, I would have replace the plug wires. When I lifted the hood of my truck I realize I knew nothing about it.
Ford - Explorer :: 2000 - Misses / Bucks / Booms When Driving In Blowing Snow
2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC, 138K miles on it. Runs like new. Except this butt problem since mid November 2010 (2 months) First time this happened it sounded like someone smacked the rear end with a 10 pound maul. BOOM! Was in blizzard conditions. Does it in AWD or 4WD. No tire slippage when it happened or happens. Only happens when:
1. Snowing good or in blowing snow from car ahead of me.
2. Not while accelerating or coasting.
3. In overdrive (not sure when in just third gear).
Had rear end inspected at Ford dealer and no issue was found. Complete driveline given clean bill of health. Dealer did PM of new lube and did the transfer case and front end at the same time as it was due anyway. After this, it usually (but not always) starts as an engine miss feeling and works it's way up to the sudden and violent "BOOM" and then a mixture. Anyway, did it again. Changed plug wires. Did it again. Tranny shop test drove while snowing - no root cause but certain it's not the tranny. Saw B1352 code and said take it to the dealer. Justanswer.com FORDEXPERT guy says B1352 is most likely the X-fer case shift motor. Inspected and replaced shift motor as it had signs of near death and on borrowed time. Did it again. Ford dealer Tech test drove while snowing and freaked out when BOOM happened. He's certain it's ignition. NO CODES!!!
Cylinder #3 (mostly) and cylinder #1 (little bit) showed slight ignition issues on diagnostics. Pinched clip in boot so they were tighter on plug and plugs were inspected OK. Sprayed water mist on coil and it's OK. Did it again. NO CODES!!! 70K on plugs so installed new plugs and second set of new plug wires thinking that RH tire is kicking snow on #1/2/3 plugs and causing short. Did it again. Tonight, when driving the last 10 miles in light snow with bucking 6 times, thinking it might be snow ingestion, I checked filter housing and I see just traces of snow in housing and snow packed into filter pleats at just one corner about 2" triangle. Still plenty of clean filter area I feel. (NAPA brand) filter is 6 months old and looks quite good. After reassembly, I feel around seam of housing and discover front seam not tight. Aha! Perhaps snow is getting into combustion chamber. Pushed in housing bottom and "thump" now it's tight and proper. Battery terminals tight and super clean. Dit it again but just once in 8 miles and was slight engine miss feeling - no buck or kick.
Other possibilities (I'm thinking):
Injectors?
main power to coil?
Is there are snow/dirt screen missing on tube into filter housing?
Nissan - Sentra :: 2008 No Clicking / Car Shut Off And Not Starting Again
There have been two instances where I have shut the car off and then it is dead when I try to restart. Not even any clicking. After it sits, it may start again. We replaced the battery, but the car wouldn't start again. Same symptoms... No clicking, or anything like that. Nissan dealer says the battery is fine and if it happens again, replace the battery because maybe it's faulty.
View 3 RepliesNissan - Sentra :: 2008 - Car Not Moving When Turned On And Put It In Gear
I turned my car on and put it in gear and I realized I was not moving. I put it back in park and tested my brakes but it felt like my brakes were already pushed all the way down to the floor. I also noticed my engine light on. I turned my car off and turned it back on and everything was okay. This happened once before a month ago. I have an 08 Sentra.
View 6 RepliesNissan - Sentra :: 2008 - Can't Accelerate Up Steep Hills Or Over Bumps?
I have a 2008 Nissan Sentra with 90-something thousand miles on it. Last summer I moved from Texas to Oregon, so it went through 125° Arizona heat (during which overdrive stopped working for a while) and mountains for the first time. Ever since then, if starting from a parked position, I can't go over hills or bumps or even curbs. I can IF I was already driving on a flat surface. But if I stop on an incline and then try to drive forward (or reverse up it), I can't. The RPMs don't go above ~1.5k until I'm back on a flat surface.
The check engine light is on, and has been on since last summer, but the code it spits out is something dealership specific. People have told me it "might be something with the transmission". The problem hasn't gotten better or worse since last summer, so I just ignored it and got really good at not stopping before steep inclines or hitting curbs or anything (lol). But if I ever need to, I'll be in huge trouble. I can't even drive over medium sized rocks if I park too close to them.
The first time I found out about this was when I pulled into a friend's downhill driveway last summer, and then couldn't reverse out of it. He had to push it back up.
Note: from a stop, it will go up GRADUAL hills and over SMALL bumps just fine, but anything that takes more than 1.5k RPMs to overcome isn't happening. It will go up steeper hills and larger bumps (and curbs) only if I was already driving, but it still can't tackle the steepest mountain road inclines like other cars can.
The 1.5k RPM problem goes away when it's on a flat surface (or if I started driving on a flat surface before encountering a hill), and it accelerates normally again. However... It also takes a couple of seconds to rev beyond 1.5k RPMs after stopping at a red light.
Nissan - Frontier :: 1998 Truck Bucks At Certain RPMs - Check Engine Light Is On
I have a 98 frontier 4 cil. 4x4 manual transmission. The CE light is on telling me that the evap system needs work. I replaced the purge canister valve and now the light wont go off at all. You can clear it all you want, as soon as the truck starts the light come back on.The truck also runs rough, bucks at certain RPMS has no power and bad gas mileage. Within the last two years I have replaced; catalytic converter, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap & rotter, transmission and clutch, air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor.
View 11 RepliesRough - Engines - Storm :: 2008 BMW X3 Hesitant On Acceleration After Driving In Dusty Weather Condition
I was caught up in the middle of the haboob (major dust storm) in Phoenix this summer. I drove through it in my 2008 BMW X3 (40K miles) for about 45 minutes. Ever since, the engine has been idling rough and hesitant on acceleration. I had replaced the air filter which was full of fine dust particles and thoroughly cleaned and vacuumed the internal of the filter housing. I also used Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner on a couple of tanks. The condition has improved a bit but it is still not back to how it was before.
View 2 RepliesNissan - Sentra :: 1998 Won't Start Every Now And Then
I have a 98 Nissan Sentra every now and then when I get in it to start it I get nothing but if I hold it or turn it to the off position a few times it will start, what this could be....
View 11 RepliesNissan - Sentra :: Not Starting Just Crank?
I have a 2000 Nissan sentra and I have times when I will drive for couple days and then it won't start it will just crank over and over but won't fire I have had it to several people but no answer replaced the fuel pump relay switch but nothing
View 5 RepliesNissan - Sentra :: 1997 GXE Won't Turn Off While Go Down A Hill
I've got a 1997 Nissan Sentra GXE (Standard). Recently, my car decided to stop starting. Here are some of the symptoms:
1) If I would go down a hill and come to a stop, or even if I was slowing down to come to a stop at a stop sign or light, my car would turn off over 50% of the time. It would usually always start back up, until last week. My car turned off as I was slowing down to turn into the mall. I was able to coast into the parking lot.
2) When I turn the key it clicks and makes a "rrrrrr" "rrrrrrr" sound.
3) I was able to get the car started once after I pumped the gas so I don't think it's a fuel pump issue.
4) The automatic windows, lights, and radio still work so I'm ruling out a battery or alternator issue either.
5) My car couldn't be jumped or push-started.
Nissan - Sentra :: 2007 - Brakes Are Squealing
My brakes are squealing; going to replace pad or lining; what is typical cost?
View 4 RepliesNissan - Sentra :: 2003 - Began To Shake At 40 MPH
Three mechanics have given us three different opinions about what is wrong with our 2003 Nissan Sentra. I'd like to hear from the Car Talk community.The problem started when our car began to shake when we drove above 40 miles per hour. We got the radiator replaced. However, the car still would not always start. We took it to the Nissan dealership. The mechanic there said it needed a new fuel pump.
We took it to mechanic #2 for a lower-cost fuel pump replacement. However, the car has started every time for them. So they cannot be confident that there is something wrong with the fuel pump. The fuel pressure does drop off after turning the key off. This mechanic said our main problem is that there is antifreeze in cylinders No. 2 and 3 of the engine (likely from when our radiator broke). There is either a crack in the cylinders or the head gasket has failed. They are estimating $1,200 to $1,600 to fix this. They said if we don't take care of this, the antifreeze will continue to circulate and damage the engine further.
The Nissan dealership says if there were antifreeze in the engine, the check engine light would have come on. Also, they say they would have noticed if there were antifreeze in the cylinders. Their opinion is the fuel pump is only thing that needs to be fixed.
We then called mechanic #3 to get another opinion. This mechanic specializes in Hondas/Toyotas/Nissans. He hasn't looked at the car yet, but he thinks that the motor could be damaged since the car was shaking when the radiator broke. He says he thinks it is unlikely that the fuel pump needs replacing, and he thinks the check engine light would not detect the antifreeze in the engine.
Fuel pump, antifreeze in cylinders, or motor? Or all three? What do you think?The car has about 85,000 miles on it.
Nissan - Sentra :: Jerking And Vibrating Out Of Control
My car has been working okay. But this morning when i was taking my mom to work. When i pulled into her jobs parking lot i heard a loud sound. I didn't pay any attention to it because the car still acted fine as it been. That was around 7 or 8 this morning. Then around 4 when it's time to pick my mama up. I got in the car it started right up. But i notice that it was jerking or vibrating real bad (but it always vibrates). Then when i started driving it i had to force it to go. When i came to a complete stop at red lights the car was acting like it was trying to cut off and it was jerking and vibrating out of control. It was doing that so much that i had to put it in park and run the motor to keep it going then when the light turned green i put it in drive and it still was acting up. It was so bad that i had to turn around and slowly get it back. I notice though that i smelled something burning. When i parked back at home it was smoke coming from the lights and hood. I know it didn't overheat i didn't have it on for that long maybe 10 minutes at the most. We just got a oil job not too long ago and the service engine light is on. The light has been on for a while now. But before we knew it was the crank shaft sensor. We keep replacing that but that continues to go bad. I really need to know what is possibly keeping my car from picking up speed and why is it smoking? We use this car for everything. My car is a 2001 nissan sentra.
View 17 RepliesNissan - Sentra :: 2004 - Changing Bad Tie-Rod Ends?
I have a USDM 2004 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V that has bad tie-rod ends (both inner and outer). I plan on changing them on both sides, however, I was told that I would have to change the boots as well. Are they talking about the strut boots and, if so, how many would I need to change and which ones? (When I went on [URL], it was stating that there are front and rear ones).
View 1 RepliesNissan - Sentra :: 1993 - Continues To Hydrolock - Gas In Oil
Have been working on this car for a few weeks now; 93 nissan sentra 1.6L. The gas+oil under the plugs was the original problem. We took the plugs out and tried to start the car a few times to shoot the gas+oil out of the cylinders. All the cylinders would fill up again right after we were done though. So we changed the fuel pressure regulator and they stopped filling up. Changed the oil+filter because they were contaminated with gas. Started it with starter fluid and the problems kept coming.
The catalytic converter was clogged and red hot so I cleaned it all out removing the platinum and put it back in as a empty pipe.Now when it started cylinders 1+2 wouldn't fire and wouldn't kill the engine when i removed the wire from the cylinder when it was running. It was misfiring and sounded terrible but it ran.So i thought it might be the fuel injectors. I was about to check them out today but then there was gas+oil under the plugs again causing hydrolock and it wouldn't start today. Took the plugs out so the cylinders could dry, but I am lost on where to go next.
Nissan - Sentra :: 1994 - When Try To Start The Car It Just Lopes
The timing chain on my 94 Nissan Sentra XE 1.6L has jumped. The car will not start and when you do try and start it just lopes and then sounds like it wants to start and goes back to loping. BTW, it has 249K on it. I have removed the front cam shaft cover. The chain is intact and looks good, but can be depressed with the finger. Upon closer inspection the chain has cut a very noticeable groove into the tensioner. There is also a noticeable groove in the upper chain guide. The question here is, can I just replace the tensioner and the guides (there are two of them), without changing out the chain. One other question I have is there a possibility that I could have damaged a valve after trying to trying to start the car with the jumped chain. Someone told my that this possible, but I have also read on the NIssan Forums that damaging/bending a valve would occur only if the chain had actually broke and I tried to start it or manually (by hand) advancing the crankshaft will attempt to get to TDC?
View 6 RepliesNissan - Sentra :: 1999 Does Not Start In Hot Weather
I have a 99 Nissan Sentra. It does not start when parked under the sun or when the weather is hot. It starts great in the morning when it is cool. The battery is new. When the car does not start, the lights come on OK (engine check light et al.), but there is no sound, no clicking ( that I can hear), no nothing happens. I heard from a mechanic that I need to change the distributor; another said that it is the starter.
View 6 RepliesNissan - Sentra :: Oil Loss / 2 Cylinder Needs New Oil Rings?
A friend of mine has a '97 Nissan Sentra and up until recently, it ran fine. Now the car needs to be refilled with 2 to 3 quarts of oil after being driven less than 100 miles. A mechanic looked at the car and said that there were no oil leaks and that the car didn't emit much blue smoke. After looking over the car a second time, the mechanic said that the number 2 cylinder needs new oil rings. A friend doesn't believe that oil rings can disintegrate so quickly.
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