Nissan - Maxima :: 2000 - Making Strange Noise - Getting Code P1320
I recently had issues with P1320 code, and after replacing a bad ignition coil by a local auto mechanic, the CEL went away. While changing the one bad ignition coil, he also changed all the spark plugs.
However, after driving for about 1000 miles, I started hearing this noise which is persistent, and I'm hesitant to drive it further without knowing if driving in this condition would cause any further damage.
What could be going wrong here for this noise. I tried to attach the video I captured, but couldn't.
Nissan - Maxima :: 1998 - Check Engine Light Come On And Car Started Running Very Rough
1998 Nissan Maxima had a check engine light come on and started running very rough. I took it to get a code read and came up with P0320 and P0325. I'm not worried about the 0325 since that's a knock sensor. 0320 is a misfire on cylinder 2.
With the car idling, I pulled the power connector from coil pack 2 to see if it made a difference in the idle - nope. I did the same for the other cylinders, and each responded with a noticeable change in the idle, which was remedied when it was reconnected.
I moved the coil pack from #2 to #4 (swapping them) and the same problem existed - idle was rough and didn't make a difference when I pulled the power on 2, but it did on all other coil packs. So, it seems the coil pack ins't the problem since multiple packs don't seem to make 2 work, but they work on other 4 and 6.
I then pulled the spark plug from cylinder 2, it was very black and looked in bad shape. I replaced it. Still no love.
I then put a spare plug in the coil and was able to see spark as the engine ran, so it seems that the coil pack at 2 is getting juice.
So, I have gas (big odor when the car is running - seems super rich) I have spark. Still running very rough and the 0320 code remains.
Pontiac - Grandam :: 2000 - Running Rough / Loss Of Power After Getting Gas
My wife's 2000 grand am 2.4L engine is acting really funny. this is the first problem we've had with it. i was driving it to pick up my kids from school. on the way i stopped and got some gas from the marathon then drove about 5minutes and it started running really ruff lose of power wouldn't go above 30mph seemed like the transmission took longer to shifter to.
i made it to the school as i was about 2 1/2 blocks away. got my kids check the oil and it was really low so i got 2 quarts as it was a gas station in walking distance. i thought it was a lil better but i started driving it and it had the same results. i got it home about a 10minute trip regularly and parked it.
the next day day it ran then stumbled hard. and every time i tried to start it got the same think was like a lock up. it did crank but when it tried to start it stumbled or locked up. i pulled the plugs had some wet threads oil was on the first on and the threads and around the spark plug b4 i pulled it out.
2 of the other plugs had red stuff on them not on the threads though. here are some pictures also i will show a vid of what its doing. i did a compression test and here are the numbers starting with the first one with oil on threads.
190-194-200-190+ compression test with cold engine.
Also smoked puffed up not sure from where yet..
Nissan - Maxima :: 1990 - Coolant Loss Through Overflow Tube?
'90 Maxima...I've noticed coolant reservoir has been running low/dry and I also notice coolant dripping from the overflow hose. Why would it keep pushing more coolant out if there isn't an excess in the reservoir? Engine runs fine., no other issues.
View 13 RepliesNissan - Maxima :: 1996 Keeps Stalling And Idle Rough
My car has suddenly started stalling a lot. I can get it to start right up if I put the clutch to the floor and it will idle fine until I start coming up of the clutch even while it in neutral. At times it will idle in neutral then start to idle rough and stall. I can drive it in reverse but can't drive it forward except in first if i keep the clutch at a certain point and not release it all the way. However when I try other gears sometimes it's like it does't want to go stalls. What it might be?
View 1 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Loss Of Power / Rough Running
I have a 2001 ford 7.3l powerstroke diesel. When I first noticed the problem I was towing a trailer going up a grade and got into the throttle almost to the floor and noticed a loss of power and the service engine soon light flashing extremely rapidly a few times and never came back on. I made it home, still lacking power but not running rough. I drove the truck to work the next day and the truck was running rougher and loosing power. It ran great through lower RPM's but seemed to trip as soon as you gave it over half throttle. eventually the truck wouldn't run right at all and lacked complete power. It idled rough as well. My mechanic threw the computer on it and it said injector pressure reading too high or too low.
I was told to replace the IPR on the HPOP and I did. (I also replaced the fuel filter and changed the oil). After replacing the IPR it ran great, had full power! then it began to slowly die like it did before until it sounded like it was running off 4 cylinders again. I pulled the ipr out, cleaned it and changed the oil again. It seemed to clear it up for an hour and ran great but then began ran rough again. I also replaced the CPS sensor. I feel like its not getting enough fuel or something, im just wondering if it could be the ICP or the lift pump. There is no check engine light at all. Its just got me stumped because cleaning the IPR clears everything up.... temporarily.
Nissan - Maxima :: 1993 - Rough Idle / Horrible Gas Mileage
My daughter has a 1993 maxima SE (3.0 DOHC) that ran ok until one day when she left work and started the car it was running very rough (missing and sputtering). She had the car towed here and I looked it over,it had a lot of visible problems which I have fixed (cracked coil packs,leaking valve cover gaskets, filthy fuel filter,clogged pcv valve, oil saturated air filter,spark plugs burned down to nubs etc, I replaced all those obviously defective parts) but the car still idles very rough, idles too low RPMs (400-500 rpms), exhaust smells like raw fuel and it only gets 5 miles to the gallon on my last test drive.
I removed the intake manifold to get to the rear fuel injectors to see if they might be stuck open and leaking.The car had been sitting for about 5 days with the battery disconnected and when I removed the first injector there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.I left the injector out overnight and the next morning there was fuel all over the top of the engine and in the fuel rail.I put the injector back in and unbolted the rail,I reconnected the battery and turned the key to start the fuel pump.I waited for about 3-4 minutes and did not see any fuel leaking from the injectors.I turned the key off and removed it from the ignition,disconnected the battery and bolted the fuel rail back down.I again removed one of the injectors and there was no fuel in the injector or the rail and no pressure in the rail.After about 2 minutes, with the key out of the ignition and the battery disconnected,I saw fuel start filling the rail and the injector port, so I quickly put the injector back in.
I`m thinking the next step would be to replace the fuel pressure regulator and recheck the injectors for leaks.Am I on the right track here with the pressure regulator? What could be causing the car to suddenly start acting this way, my daughter said the car ran fine on her way to work ( although I hardly think it could have been running "fine" with cracked coil packs,clogged air filter,worn plugs etc)...
Nissan - Maxima :: 1993 - Rough Idle And Stall After Warmup
1993 Nissan Maxima. Great little car except when engine gets warmed up it begins to run rough and dies. At idle, when accelerating, while maintaining speed. Since its a manual it is a simple matter of dropping into neutral and it fires right up again... no problem. Then stall repeats. Went through routine steps checking plugs, filters, wires, sensors etc.. The O2 sensor (only one) is gone - as is the converter. At some point someone replaced it with a straight pipe.
After not finding a obvious answer, I began to ask around (auto-part stores, neighbors, some patrons at the saloon). Conclusion... OBD failure causing a "kill" routine which shuts off the engine. When I restart, it resets. Once it fails to enter a static state (engine is warm) it kills again. I replaced the computer with a used one "known" to operate (so the e-bay seller said) Installed it and bingo, car ran like a top for 15 full minutes - best ever. Then after 15 minutes or so, suddenly began to run rough and stalled twice before I got back home. I runs now just as before (but oh those glorious 15 minutes).
Nissan :: 2000 - Belts Change Caused The Power Loss
I have a 2000 Nissan Xterra 3.3L, at 114,000 miles I changed all the belts two days ago these being 3 serpentine accessory belts and the timing belt with tensioner. I do believe that the engine did not move (cams & crank) while replacing timing belt and even made sure the timing marks all lined up on the cams and the crank upon installation. The belt tension on timing belt was done to Chilton Spec. as well. I did not tighten the serpentines to spec. , but just to best judgment. Between idle -to- 3000 the engine does not seem as strong especially up hill. It idles smooth, does not overheat and there is no tapping/knocking or a check engine light. I was told that that with new belts (especially the timing belt) the motor may have to wear to the belts or vice versa and there may be some power loss till all wears in together do to now tighter tolerances. I was going to relieve some tension on the serpentines to see if maybe that would make a difference in regaining power.
View 14 RepliesNissan - Maxima :: 2005 - Got P0420 Code
Keep getting the P0420 code on this vehicle. Have changed air filter, spark plugs, run fuel injector cleaner through the tank on Shell 93 octane fuel. Drove 430 highway miles to clean out the carbon and the SES light is still on and when we check the code it says Catalyst system effiency below threshold bank 1. How do i get this fixed?
View 1 RepliesSilverado :: Truck Is Running Rough / Loss Of Engine Power?
why my truck is running rough the problem I am having is when you push the gas peddle more than a 1/4 of an inch it shudders and has no get up and go and also if say I'm doing 40 MPH and hit the gas you can hear the engine rev up but I will lose all power and actually lose speed I thought maybe the cats were bad and I changed the plugs for good measure but I can't seem to figure it out also I had the fuel pressure checked and its pulling pressure is great/
View 6 RepliesNissan - Maxima :: 1998 - Runs Rough Once It Warms Up - Doesn't Idle Well
My 98 Maxima won't idle without dying, it sputters when you accelerate, and it tries to die while coasting. I've changed two O2 sensors (AutoZone gave me the code for bank 1 sensor 1 & 2) changed spark plugs, tried fuel injector cleaner, oil change, and cleaned MAF sensor & checked the wiring. It;s still spitting out the black exhaust. Although after changing the O2 sensors it quit for about a day or two but started again (I'm guessing the other sensors need to be changed to) But the main problem is once it warms up, it really runs like crap, and is a major gas hog. I'm getting about 12 Mpg.
View 19 RepliesNissan - Maxima :: PO430 Catalytic Converter Code
My 2000 Nissan Maxima has a PO430 code for the catalytic converter that has been going on and off for over 1 year now. My ? is, how would I know that the converter needs replacing? Someone said there wouldn't be any smell necessarily, someone else said I would be leaking qts. of oil in between changes and someone else said it would get bad mileage. Each one debunks the others comments etc. Also just for info., this car had the ses light come on at 57K miles, my brother replaced 2 of the O2 sensors and I replaced 2 also, one duplicate one and a mass air flow as well.
View 1 RepliesGTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Bog Down A Lot / Rough Running - Complete Power Loss On Highway
About three nights ago I had a complete power loss on the highway and the car began to bog down alot under throttle (and surge at points as well although with no boost). It also idled very rough/erratically. When I unplugged the MAF it cleared up right away; Idle was smooth and it ran without hiccup but in safe/limp mode so very tame (again, without boost really, gauge shows it stays in Vacuum and never passes "0" or goes into boost).
I scanned it this evening and got 2 misfire codes and a MAF code, along with a code related to traction control which I noticed had activated as a result of this and could not be turned on (by activated, I mean the light came on, disengaging T/C). These things make me think it is MAF related, especially because I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I do not think that is what it could be in relation to the misfire codes (which I think may be old and needed to be cleared).
Fast forward to last night: I can pretty confidently say my MAF is not the problem and I think I saved an unnecessary expenditure. I was able to meet a friend with a 337 as well and his MAF did not change my car at all and my MAF ran fine in his car so I think my problems are something else. Although with the MAF plugged in my car runs very poor and unplugged it clears up and just runs "limp" (no boost and slow but stable) from what I tested this evening the MAF unit seems to not be the issue.
I think there must be a vacuum leak of some sort between the MAF and the engine which allows more air in than the MAF signals when plugged in which causes the issue. Also, I know a common thing to think is "coilpacks" but I have bolt down Hitachi coil packs so I would imagine that would eliminate those from being the failure they tend to normally be. Agreed ??
Nissan - Maxima :: 2000 - What Is The Cause Of Alternator Malfunctioning
I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima GXE four-door sedan, which I purchased new. In May 2008, at 39,556 miles I had to replace the alternator. In January 2011, at 45,201 miles (+5,645 miles) I had to replace the alternator again. Now, in December 2013 at 49,630 miles (+4,429 miles) I have to replace the alternator for the third time. It just doesn’t make since that the less I drive, the more often I have to replace the alternator. The replacement alternators were remanufactured and not purchased from a Nissan dealer. Do you know what would be causing the alternators to fail? Do you think purchasing a new alternator from Nissan dealer would solve the problem?
View 11 RepliesNissan - Maxima :: 2000 - Sunroof Does Not Work?
I have checked all fuses, relays, etc that I know about. In fact, I pulled all of the fuses out and checked. The switches test good for connectivity.
The sunroof is closed, but needs to tilt up (if that makes sense) to fully close it and seat the weather strip. I have tried everything and it was working fine last week with no issue. There is no sound from the motor when the switches are pressed.
Nissan - Maxima :: 1994 Runs Rough Occasionally / Cylinder Starts Missing
1994 Maxima SE 5 speed manual with 178k runs great when engine is cold, then a cylinder starts missing. Symptom is worse in low gears. Then, miles and miles without a miss. Replaced rear ignition coil and it seemed to fix the problem... for about 20 miles, then it started missing again. And stops missing… for miles.
View 2 RepliesNissan - Maxima :: 2000 - Clicking And Humming But Car Would Not Turn Over
When I tried to start my car it wouldn't turnover, clicked and hummed. I took the starter out and had it tested and it was no good. I bought a new starter, put it in and same click and hum. Battery is OK, connection from battery to starter OK and the fuse is good.
View 2 RepliesNissan - Maxima :: 2000 - Radiator Has Small Leak At The Top
I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima with 177K. I'm planning on getting a new car in a few months. The radiator has a small leak at the top. Is a product such as Barr's stop leak a viable solution to get me through a few months or will it cause problems?
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