Mazda - Miata :: 1994 - Clunking Noise From Trunk On Bumps?
I've got a '94 Mazda miata which is in good shape, with among other things a fair number of suspension upgrades. It drives really well, other than the clunk. On the occasional bump it clunks as if something is loose on the driver's side rear. I've checked the shocks, springs, jacked it up and inspected everything I can think of. I'm looking for wisdom from your decades of experience (in your terms wasted time) on what it might be.
View 3 RepliesNissan - Belts - Airconditioning :: 1994 - Engine Down Significantly When At Idle?
My 1994 Nissan Altima is a great little car with an unknown number of miles, though my best estimate is around 150k. Every time the air conditioner compressor kicks in it drags the engine down significantly when at idle, and often causes the belt to squeal. The squeal is most notable while accelerating. My question is, since the belt is relatively new do I have a tensioner problem, a compressor problem, or something else?
View 4 RepliesMazda - Miata :: 2000 - Car Running On Two Or Three Cylinders / CEL Came On And Continued To Flash
Car recently acted like it was running on two or three cylinders and cel came on and continued to flash. The shop that did the repairs is no longer a Mazda dealer, but has a factoy trained tech. Don't know the code #, but was told that there was a low voltage code, and a misfire code. The battery was replaced, throttle body cleaned and a new fuel filter installed. The cel came back on about 25 miles later. They rechecked the codes. Said it could be the converter, and cleared the code again. After about 150 miles, the cel came on again but the car ran normal. Talked to the shop again and was told the the converter problem would have to be serviced at a Mazda dealer. The engine did the running on three cylinder thing again. Since then, it seems to run ok but the light is still flashing. If the OEM converters are fragile are there better options for replacement? The car has 30,000 miles.
View 4 RepliesPlymouth - Neon - Airconditioning :: 1995 - Running Very High Idle?
I have a 95 neon that is running a very high Idle. When you remove your foot off the break & gas it idles around 40 mph. Iv just replaced all the breaks and its melting the new ones already. I am receiving the following check Engine Codes: 12, 25, 32, 15. I have completed the following repairs:
1) replaced all vacuum lines.2) removed EGR Valve to clean, replaced all lines. No more engine code 32, however, now I am getting engine code: 12, 23, 25, 15.3) removed intake manifold to replace the PCV Valve as well as all hoses from the oil separator.4) replaced the IAC sensor5) used ohm meter to check all wiring from IAC to computer. no issues.6) replaced the TPC sensor7) used a ohm meter to check all wiring from the TPC to the computer. No issues.8) used a ohm meter to see if the air temperature sensor was working correctly. No issues9) checked wiring from Air temperature sensor to computer, no issues.
The car continues to idle extremely high to the point it is not safe to drive. By feeling the throttle body where the IAC lets in air, it feels like its comply open. I pulled the IAC out of the throttle body while it was plugged in and ground to the engine block. When you turn the car on you can see the IAC move, but it never seems to want to shut off air supply.
It appears the computer is telling it to let more air in even though its very high idle. I replaced the computer about 5 years ago. what would cause this?! Im to the point iv put in way too much time and money already. but I don't want to buy a new car when it could just be a $50 fix.
Century :: 1994 Buick 3.1L Running Hot / Not Overheating
I am having a very tricky problem with my Buick.
For approximately the last 4 months, it has been (at least according to the heat gauge on the dash) running pretty hot. Not overheating, but getting close. And it doesn't take long for it to get there. This all seems to have begun right around the time that my father and I flushed the coolant system.
Since then, I have replaced some parts, and learned a few things in the process.
I learned that there are bleeder screws which can be opened to let air bubbles out. And I have heard that the 3.1L is especially susceptible to them.
New parts which I have installed:
- thermostat
- coolant temperature sensor
- radiator cap
- upper radiator hose
- lower radiator hose
I have checked the water pump and it seems to be perfectly fine. No leaks. No signs of bad bearings. And it circulates coolant just fine. I have not been witness to either cooling fan, primary or auxiliary, switching on in a while.
The exact symptoms are these:
The heat gauge does not take long to get to mid-way point, but will sit at that point for a bit if the vehicle remains stationary. Once the vehicle is in significant motion, the heat gauge will climb fairly quickly, especially with moderately high RPMs. It WON'T touch the red though, but will get very very close to it. The car runs fine. It does seem to be a bit underpowered, but I am comparing it to my fiance's 1996 Olds Cutlass Ciera, which I believe has a different transmission. My Buick does not seem to have lost power since this problem arose. The cooling fans no longer kick on. The oil appears fine. The coolant as well. With the radiator cap off, coolant does not bubble out or shoot out.
I made sure after changing upper and lower hoses to fill the radiator, let the car run long enough for the thermostat to open, and then slowly poured more coolant into the radiator until it was full again. And the reservoir is at proper level and the the reservoir hose s not clogged.
I am not SURE, but I don't believe the radiator is clogged. I believe that covers it, at least as well as I can.
BTW, I do not know where the fan relays are, otherwise I would test the fans to see if they still work.
What the heck is up with my Buick? Also, it has 97,xxx miles on it, and the transmission fluid is at proper level and looks normal.
Camry :: 1994 - Car Overheating When Running - Now Won't Start But Has Spark
94 camry. 4 cylinder. Coil is located on the strut housing along with the ignitor. The car was running, but overheating.
The last time it ran, it overheated badly, but was parked right away. Fans never came on.
The radiator was leaking, so that was replaced. And since the fans hadn't come on, the temp sensor for the fans, in the bottom of the rad was also replaced.
Now it won't start. It cranks over nicely, and acts like it is missing spark or fuel.
It has spark. Determined by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor and checking there.
I used spray starting fluid by pulling the tube from the end of the throttle body and spraying in there. The spray starting fluid should have at least caused a cough or two, if not a short start and run then die... if fuel delivery was the problem.
I have tried it with the temp switch on the manifold connected, and then disconnected. Also tried jumping that connector, so I don't think that temp switch is the problem. (It's the temp switch that has the green connector.)
I am assuming the ignitor and coil are good, otherwise I would not be getting a spark from there.
Sierra :: 1994 GMC Running Rough - Surging / Dies
I have a 1994 gmc sierra 4x4 5.7 with a rebuilt engine 2 yrs ago and it has started having a rough idle(surging/dies) I have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, maf sensor, iac sensor, tps sensor, top half of the tb and injectors, distributor, ignition module, plugs and plug wires and still no change. Yesterday I cleaned the iac and seemed to straighten up a little but then got in it to go to work today and it was back to running rough again and seemed worse. I am at a loss.
View 4 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Battery Keeps Running Down
Got a problem with the '94 Ranger. Something keeps draining the battery. For reference, the truck is an XL, manual 4x4, 4.0L, 5-speed. I've been trying to keep driving it so I could try and diagnose the issue. At first, as long as I cranked it every day, it stayed charged up, but now it has gotten worse. It will run down in an hour or two. I know figuring this kind of problem out is tough, but I thought maybe some others of you may have experience in this area that might benefit me.
Based on a gut feeling, my first idea was that there was something going on inside the AC compressor. So, I disconnected the compressor, but that wasn't it. My plan at the moment is to replace the wiring harness between the battery and the starter. The current harness is pieced together (not my doing), and whether it fixes this problem or not, it needs to be done. Another thing I've thought about is the ignition switch. It acts "funny" to me, but it has never really given any trouble.
My son needs to take this vehicle back to college with him in a couple weeks, and I need to get it figured out.
Toyota - Surf Hilux :: 1994 - Quits Shifting When Car Is Running
I have a 1994 Toyota Surf Hilux. Lately the manuel gear has quit shifting while the car is on. I can correct it by shutting the car off and then it shifts perfectly. This started out as an intermittent problem but is getting increasingly worse. It happens every day now. Trust me, this is very dangerous not to be able to shift while in African traffic. I don't want to take it to a mechanic here because they aren't usually trustworthy - they will fix all kinds of problems that I don't have and I can't afford to have my car tied up for weeks with no results. I have a friend who might be able to fix it if we can ascertain the problem but it is pretty confusing as to what the problem might be. The clutch was replaced a year ago.
View 9 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Running Rough At Idle?
Engine runs rough at idle. Two plugs are black and just replaced head gaskets. I installed new short block and new heads six months ago. I can't seem to figure out the problem and I would like to trouble shoot more before tearing heads off and going any further.
View 2 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 1994 - Running Hot Towards The High End Of Normal Area
Its a first Generation I have had about a year, had some of the typical issues with a vehicle this old---bad connection with a relay under hood, cracked fan blade, IAC, nothing I could not find.
Temp (issue is getting worse) runs up to high end of "Normal" yet I note radiator does not seem overly hot. (to the touch).
Antifreeze tests very good and is full---no signs of leaks or liquid in the oil.
I am hoping thermostat or radiator===vehicle has been well maintained and does not show rust in the coolant, and no signs of leakage around the pump or anywhere else---coolant level does not drop.
I am planning on removing the thermostat and seeing if same issue with it removed====it should rule that out or not----
It is not boiling over but just running towards the high end of the normal area.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Running Hot - Loss Of Power
So I got everything fixed on my 94 ranger so I thought. Now it runs right on the "L" on the idiot gauge on 90 degree plus days running the AC. Also it seems to lose power at times and not even want to do 70. I think new coils, new plugs and wires may work. I also have an intermittent check engine light that pops up on occasion, but clears when you kill the motor and start it back up. I was really starting to like this truck despite it not being my style(I like square body rangers) and it being a 4 cylinder. I like the MPG but am starting to think the 200k engine may be fading
View 14 RepliesCamry :: 1994 LE - All Exterior Lights Work But Indicator Light Won't Go Off When Car Running
I recently purchased a 1994 Camry LE Wagon 3.0 for a reliable work car. I've spent the last week correcting mechanical issues the previous owner didn't. (Tune up, filters, struts.....)
When I start the car the "failed bulb" indicator light located to the left of the Tachometer is off, but as soon as I touch the brake to put the car in "D" the indicator light comes on and stays on until the next time I start it. I have checked EVERY exterior bulb several times with the car in park, not running. In park with the car running and the same in drive. All exterior lights work but this indicator light won't go off when the car is running.
Is there a fuse, sensor or relay somewhere on this car which may be the source of this problem? Wanting to "Turn off the Lights!"
Ford Fuel System :: 1994 F150 - No Start After Running When Turned Off
I have a 1994 f 150 5.8l 4x4 with 215000. Cold starting is fine runs well. After running it will not start after shut down. Wait till motor cools back down will start up and run fine ....
View 2 RepliesFord Wiring/Electrical :: 1994 - Tail / Turn / Running / Brake Lights Out?
First off my driver side brake light with stop working. I took it apart to try and find the short. In the process I shorted out all my running lights tail lights and brake lights and turn signals I think also. While I was looking for the short, turn signal wire from my tail light touched the frame and grounded out and that's when all the lights died . My tail lights are some cheap trailer lights without reverse lights. I pulled headlight switch from another Ford truck I have. On the harness connector that connects to the switch which wires should read what when I test with a voltmeter?I checked the fuses in the power distribution box under the hood and they were good. Truck has a flat bed so I don't know if that matters with the wiring, I suspect it's different then a normal bed truck. Wiring on the bed is old, maybe from 94. I am unexperienced with electrical.
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Running Rich / Strong Exhaust Smell
1994 reg cab 4.ol 13ok.. my wife just got it, been doing some small things like replaced dome light, replaced cargo/third brake light, truck starts and seems to run ok. but i get a headache in it which i believe is carbon monoxide, has a leak or something? i text previous owner, he said he replaced 02 sensors, but didnt say if they were bosch or a good brand.. also trucks has a oil pressure and coolant temp gauge fitted on by the gear shift as the dash gauges for those functions are out. Does this mean the CTS may not be working and affecting fuel/air I do not know these trucks i only just found out what this strange silver looking thing was it is the IAC, I Believe, then there is this black plastic vacuum type cylinder by the passenger side firewall, what is that? and right against the drivers side fire wall is a small reservoir type thingy, is this something to do with ABS? i do have an ABS light on, was hoping it was the bulb out on the third brake light or something quirky like that no such luck its still on after starting engine. but i am concerned about this running rich/strong smell as we really cant take it far as is it, its dangerous, may have to get a smoke test? Just got the truck, trying to get caught up..
View 8 RepliesDeville :: 1994 Cadillac - Heater / AC Blower Motor Keeps Running Until Pull The Plug Under The Hood
I am new to the world of the Cadillac. I bought a nice 1994 Deville for $500 at auction. I replaced the water pump and put two new tires on the front. It is my daily driver I use for work, I put about 96 miles a day on it. The gas mileage is actually really good due to 90% of my drive is on the highway.
The only issue I am currently having is that the Heater/AC blower motor keeps running until I pull the plug under the hood. I started looking up solutions only to find that there really seems to be very little in the way of getting good information.
I have one side saying it's the blower motor itself
another saying it's the BMC
another saying it's the heater/ac programer
and still another saying there is no cure just pull the fuse
When I checked here I found one person with the same problem back in 2011, but there was no resolution.
C/K :: 1994 1500 5.7 Liter Engine Skipping / Misfiring - Truck Running On Half The Cylinders
My truck is skipping but if I give it more throttle it will stop but then will start back when I let off the throttle. It seems like it is only running on half the cylinders. This problem is intermittent which makes it very hard to troubleshoot even for the dealership and other places I have taken it. Also, the problem is temperature sensitive. It only does it below 40 deg. F. Truck runs fine any other time of the year. Truck has new plugs, plug wires, distributor, egr valve, O2 sensor. Also, the IAC has been cleaned. The check engine light does not come on.
View 14 RepliesAzera TG (2006-11) :: Shifters Are Not Enough Stiff
I have a 2006 Azera. H&R lowering springs. I just replaced the front struts but they are not stiff enough to stop some of the bounce. Any stiffer aftermarket strut that I could use to stiffen the front end?
View 2 Replies