Mercedes-benz - E-class :: ABS / EPS And BAS Warning Lights Come On And Goes Away
I have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.
View 1 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: 1989 - Whines Over 40 MPH
I have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?
View 9 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Just Quit And Would Not Start
While on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...
View 5 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Difficult Start - CEL On?
The check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
View 19 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Mystery Leak In The Hydraulic
I have a 91 Mercedes with 153,000 miles thats terrific but the mystery leak in the hydraulic running the rear suspension is driving me nuts. Especially when the hydraulics call for factory spec fluid.
View 3 RepliesMercedes-benz - Clk-class :: Hydraulic Lines Broke Again
I have a '05 Mercedes CLK320 convertible that I purchased 3 years ago with about 29,000 miles on it. Two years ago the hydraulic lines in the top blew and I spent about $3,000 to have it repaired. Today, the lines blew again. What I'm trying to find out is: - Is this common in this car? Or in any convertible?- Did I just get a lemon?- If this isn't a common problem, should the dealer that repaired the hydraulics 2 years ago fix them again for free?
It only has 70,000 miles on it now and I was under the impression that I could drive a Mercedes for a couple hundred thousand miles without a too much mechanical problem. But if this is going to be an ongoing issue, I'm going to get rid of the car, even though I absolutely love it. It's ruby red, of course!
Mercedes-benz - E-class :: Squeaky Brakes Particularly When Backing Up
My brakes squeak from time to time, particularly backing up, but also braking forward. My mechanic said I have plenty of brake pad and nothing is being damaged. He said he has often seen the "squeaky brakes" problem in Mercedes and it is often difficult to pinpoint which wheel (or wheels) would be the cause of the squeaking (sound like metal on metal). Why this is happening?
View 2 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: 1994 - Stalling At Idle
My 1994 mercedes C220 stalls at idle. the local mercedes dealer told me that it is caused by the alternator overcharging. can this be true??
View 2 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: 2002 - Intermittent Start Up
Car starts intermittently, have heard this is common on Mercedes Benz cars, whats the fix? I do my own maintenance on my cars have tools ect.
View 9 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: 2004 - Vibration While Stopped?
I own a used 2004 Mercedes C320 4Matic. I bought it with 57k miles. I drive it about 150 miles per week. The reseller told me i needed engine mount replacements at 67k. The car did have a vibration, which I was sort of ignoring, so I had the work done. Now, the vibration persists.
It is most noticable in the morning upon start-up, at an idle. But it is also noticable when the car is warm and I am stopped at a light. It can also be noticed as a subtle vibration in the steering wheel at highway speed.
I am very sure it is not wheel balance or rotors (hey, I can feel it at a stop). I brought it back to the dealer, who said after 5 hours of diagnosis, they could findind nothing wrong.
Mercedes-benz - M-class :: 2006 - Noise Under The Hood
Last week I noticed that my engine (2006 ML350 33,000 miles )was not sounding as it normally does. I called my foreign car repair shop that normally maintains my car but could not get an appointment for several days.
My husband thought that it was possibly a bad bearing in one of the belt pulleys near power steering pump. The noise was getting louder so my shop looked at it sooner and determined I needed a power steering pump, reservoir, gasket, fluid,accessory belt tensioner and belt.
I had no choice but to get the repair.When I picked up my car it still didn't sound right. I was told it would take a little time to break in. Well all week my car was making a lot of different sounds until it got so loud I wouldn't drive it. I took it in today and got the call that it needed what I think was called a/c tensioner pulley. I just want to know if this seems possible. (Car drove fine and no problems with steering before first repair).
Mercedes-benz - C-class :: 1996 - Outside Ambient Air Sensor Gone Bad
I have a 1996 Mercedes C280. The outside ambient air sensor has gone bad and now reads about 30 degrees F high. There are two types of sensors for this model and year. One is a plug-in sensor that looks like a small pointy cone. The other is a long cable with a metal cylinder at the end that looks like an old-style stereo headphones jack (the thick kind). I have this second type.
I would like to know whether, instead of replacing the whole wire and sensor combination, which involves taking out the instrument cluster and rerunning the wire, I can simply cut off the wire at the sensor end and solder in a new sensor (cut off from a new part).
I am wondering whether it would be possible to just cut the existing cable near the sensor end and then solder in one of the pointy cones. There is a youtube video that shows replacement of a similar type of pointy cone sensor on a BMW, and it looks like the assembly that accepts the sensor is the same, so if I couldn't find a Mercedes plug-in receiver assembly for my old car, I could maybe use the BMW one and then plug in the Mercedes sensor. That would let me do another plug-in later without resoldering.
Since this sensor has gone bad once before, I have to think that a replacement won't last more than five years or so.
I am not sure whether the outside temperature has an effect on other aspects of the car, such as injection mix. I presume it has to go through the on-board computer, because it must be the signal for the little snowflake that appears on the dash when the outside temperature drops to freezing at the road level. Whether leaving the sensor alone and just living with a high reading will cause problems? Right now when the outside temp is around 70 degrees F the sensor reads about 105 degrees F.
Mercedes-benz - M-class :: Heat Remains Permanently On And Very High
Last summer my air conditioner (cooling) stopped working. However the heat has remained on and is very high, even though it is not turned on. How can I turn the heat off?
View 5 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Occasional Serious Shaking When Going At High Speeds
I have about 25K miles on tires that are expected to last for 60K miles. The tred is fine. But I have experienced occasional serious shaking of the car when going at high speeds. Not every time. And it has only happened when I am alone in the car (of course did not happen with mechanic in the car). My mechanic says I need an alignment and new tires, claiming that by being out of alignment the tires are ruined. Says it is heat and road conditions that cause the effect and there is steel belt damage within at least one of the tires. Curiously, the car does not do the classic out-of-alignment thing of pulling to one side. Not at all. Is it an alignment and tire issue or something else? The car has 175,000 miles on it and otherwise run great!
View 6 RepliesMercedes-benz - Clk-class :: 2001 - Noise From The Engine / Vibration
My 2001 Mercedes CLK320 has ~150k on it. The maintenance etc. has been kept up to date. A few months ago the car engine started to run noisily and began to vibrate. It's worse when it's cold out or if the car is at stopped but not in park (like when you're at a stop light or drive thru). The vibration and noisy engine running lessen considerable after the car runs for a while and if the car is in the park. I already had a tune up by the MB dealer about 9 months ago. Diagnosis? Also, I'm obviously at that point where the dealer service shop no longer makes sense. I'm going to drive this car (hopefully) beyond 200k, however, it would be nice to get rid of this problem. Otherwise, the car really is almost as good as new!
View 7 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: While Driving Suddenly Lights On Dash Go Out
I have a 2001 Mercedes C320 and this has happened to me twice within the last two months. While driving, all of a sudden the lights on dash go out, including speedometer, odometer, gas gauge looks to be empty, heater/A/C off - the engine still running & the radio still working. I don't know about the headlights because it was during the day & I didn't think to check. Both times it was after 5:00 or on the weekend and my mechanic was closed. Next day after starting the car everything worked again. What could cause this?
View 2 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: 2008 - Resetting Service Message
I just bought a 2008 Mercedes E350 with 92,000 miles. After 2 days of driving a message displays " Service c due in 14 days" .I called local Benz dealer and they said the oil will need changing. The place I bought the car from assured me they had changed the oil prior to putting it up for sale. How do you reset this message on the car. I have looked through the owner manual and not found anything about this.
View 2 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: Vibration When Car Is Stopped With Foot On Brake
I have a 2000 MB C230 Kompressor. Over the past few weeks I have noticed a vibration when the car is stopped. Specifically, when the car is in drive & the foot on the brake, the car vibrates. There is no squeaking of the brakes & feel that the brakes are in good condition. What might be causing the vibration...
View 4 RepliesMercedes-benz - S-class :: 1979 - Shuddering While Driving When Reached Around 50+ Mph
I bought a 1979 Mercedes 300SD Turbo Diesel. The car was in great shape and only had 45,000 miles on it, no rust and the engine runs strong. It did have a brakes problem.
The owner that I bought it from had been driving it around for some time (he never did tell me how long) with toasted brakes. I didn't know they were toast at the time but the car was really cheap, so I bought it.
The big issue with the car is that when you reached around 50+ mph it would start to shake and shudder violently. So much so that it was very unsafe to drive. I could also smell burning brakes. The first thing I did was get 4 new tires on it, and an alignment. I suspected it needed much more then that so from there it was to a repair shop.
It turns out the previous driver had cooked the brakes. He had been driving around with a bad master cylinder, the shuddering was the brakes being applied on and off while driving. That explained the burning brakes smell (from the front) as well. I was a strapped for cash so they replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads and master cylinder. After that, it drove ok for about 40 miles or so, then the shudder started again, only not as bad as before.
I parked it in the back yard for the next two weeks. At that point I took it out again for about a two mile test drive to see if I could spot anything that set it off... about a mile into the drive, the brake light came on and I lost about 50% of my braking power. Parked it again.
About two weeks after that, I brought it to the repair shop again for round two (This time when I started it, the brake light didn't come on, and the brakes behaved normally...???) . This time, they replaced the front rotors (and possibly another item but I can't remember off the top of my head). It drove great for another 30-40 miles again and then the burning brakes smell came back. I could also feel a little bit of the shaking coming from the steering wheel again. I decided to have the tires balanced again. While there the burning smell was strong, the tire and brakes guys said it was probably just everything re-seating and not to worry about it to much.
All went well for the next little while. Several days went by where I would feel the vibration start, but then go away again before it became to bad. It was just kind of annoying. Then Friday, it started coming back like it was originally. I commute 70 miles each way for work.On the commute home Friday, it started the same old original shaking and shuddering again. It was about 25% of its original strength, it only lasted a mile or two, then vanished again. By the end of the long weekend, I was starting to think maybe I was over estimating it, so I drove it to work again. Same thing, once on the way it did its shuddering and shaking, stronger this time, it does it for a few miles then vanishes.
Over lunch, I took it the dmv and the shuddering was just as bad as it was when I bought it. I got about 2 miles down the freeway and it started shaking violently once it was up to 60mph, the shaking comes back under control somewhat under 55mph, but the problem persisted for most of the 12-13 miles to the dmv. When I parked, there was the strong smell of burning brakes again. On the drive back to work, it behaved normally, although I didn't go faster then 60mph. The shaking seems to start at the beginning of the commute, lasts for 10+ miles or so, then goes away.