Mercedes-benz - E-class :: 1991 - Won't Start - Found No Reason?
My father is gifting me his 1991 Mercedes-Benz 300E 4matic, but it won't start. He's taken it to a specialist locally and to the dealership and they cannot find one thing wrong with it to explain why, or fix it, but every time he gets it home it won't start.
View 19 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: 1992 Runs Fine For 15 Minutes, Then Sputter And Stalls
1992 Mercedes 300E with 160,000 miles that I've owned for 15 years. Car runs fine for approximately 10-20 minutes and then starts to sputter and cough and if I don't increase the RPM's it will stall. If I increase the RPM's it will smooth out for a little while, but after a couple of minutes with higher RPM's it will sputter again and finally stall. After it sits for awhile I can start it up again and it runs fine for another 10-20 minutes. No check engine light is on and the car is OBD 1.
This problem preceded the weather recently turning cold. Thus far I replaced the spark plug wires as the other ones were old, but this didn't work. The spark plugs themselves were replaced about 2 years ago. At this point I'm suspecting it needs a new distributor cap and rotor (when I replaced the wires some of the cap's posts had corrosion, which I cleaned off with a brush).
Stall - Mercedes-benz - E-class :: E320 Stalls At Idle When Cold
Car: 2000 Mercedes-Benz E320 (W210) 4matic
This car runs beautifully if the air temperature is above 60 degrees or so (maybe 65) Fahrenheit.
If the air temperature, however, is much cooler, and the engine has had enough time to cool to air temperature, it stalls. Here's the sequence:- Start the car. Car runs fine, sounds good. Initial idle speed about 1200-1500 RPM.- Wait for car to warm up for a few seconds so it settles into normal idle. Idle speed settles to about 800 RPM after 5-20 seconds, depending upon air temperature.- Shift car into gear (D or R - doesn't matter). Idle speed drops to 500 or so, then the car stalls.- Restart the car. Allow it to warm up significantly (how much depends upon air temperature). - Shift into gear (D or R). Engine idle speed drops a bit, then recovers to ~800 RPM. No problems after that.
If it's a little cool (55-60 degrees Fahrenheit), I can drive off once the engine temp gauge needle rises a few degrees (45-50 degrees Centigrade).If it's around freezing (20-40 degrees Fahrenheit), I can't drive off until the engine temp gauge reaches nearly 80 degrees Centigrade.
If I'm on a hill (pointing down), I can start at a slightly lower temperature by allowing the car to start rolling as soon as I shift into gear. In this case, there's less resistance, so the idle speed doesn't go low enough to stall the car. If I am on a level surface (or pointing uphill), 80 degrees Centigrade seems to be almost a magic number when the air temperature is below 40 Fahrenheit (near freezing). When the needle is showing about 78 degrees Centigrade, the car will still stall. When it reaches 80 degrees Centigrade, the car is fine, and will not even come close to stalling when put in gear.
ONE CONFUSING VARIABLE: When I took this to my mechanic, it didn't exhibit the problem for him. When I picked it up (about 30 Fahrenheit), it stalled. He came out and started it, put it into gear, and it idled without stalling. I got in and let him watch while I got in, started it, put it into gear, and it stalled. We have no explanation as to why this would be any different (we tried several times, varying techniques, brake pressure, etc., with the same confusing results).
Mercedes-benz - C-class :: C240 Car Seems To Be Gasping For Breath And Attempt To Stall When Come To A Stop
Mercedes Benz C240 ... Every time I come to a stop, the car seems to be gasping for breath and attempt to want to stall. Occasionally the battery/alternator light comes up. It has not stalled yet and seems to catch its breath and continues once I step on the gas after the shake and after there was an air rush through the vents (I called-Caching its breath). I took it in to the dealer and the electrical was checked and they found nothing.
View 6 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Just Quit And Would Not Start
While on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...
View 5 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Difficult Start - CEL On?
The check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
View 19 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: 2002 - Intermittent Start Up
Car starts intermittently, have heard this is common on Mercedes Benz cars, whats the fix? I do my own maintenance on my cars have tools ect.
View 9 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: 1996 Won't Start - Vacuum In Gas Tank
Yesterday my 1996 Mercedes C220 would not start. It cranked like crazy but would not fire. Some things I suspect contributed: The gas tank was below 1/4 full. It was cold ... about 25F. The night before I had put 140 lb. of sand in the trunk just before driving it about 15 miles home and parking it. My theory was that because of the weight of the sand and the low gas level, gas was not able to get to the fuel pump.
So this morning I was going to put in a couple gallons of gas from my garage gas can. When I opened the gas cap there was a serious whoosh of air into the tank; there had been a substantial vacuum inside the tank. I put the cap back on, without adding any gas (the sand was still in the trunk), and the car started right up. Here's my question(s):
1) Did the sand contribute in any way to the problem?;
2) Did the low gas level contribute?;
3) Did the cold weather contribute?;
4) Do I have a mechanical problem I need to take care of?
Mercedes-benz - M-class :: Loud Metallic Knock When Start To Drive
I have a 1998 Mercedes ML. In the past few weeks, there is quite a loud metallic knock when I start driving. It does not happen if I take off real slowly. What could be the cause?
View 7 RepliesMercedes-benz - Clk-class :: Transmission Seems To Start Out From 2nd Gear - Hesitant To Downshift
My mom just picked up a 2003 CLK 430. I drove it around for a bit and noticed that a few things didn't seem quite right
The transmission seems to start out in 2nd gear rather than first even when the transmission is not in "winter" mode. The transmission is also very hesitant to downshift, and often times will not downshift at all if the car is moving.
There's a noticeable amount of lag time between when you stand on the gas and when car actually starts accelerating.The engine doesn't seem to rev very quickly or freely, and there is some noticeable pinging when the engine is under load. Performance was very tepid for a 275 HP car.
The spark plugs and ignition wires were replaced last week. The car has 105k miles on it. I know the previous owner used regular unleaded, and the owners specifically states that 91 octane should be used and goes as far as to mention precautions that should be taken should regular unleaded. The car was filled up with 93 octane fuel earlier today.
Just 15 minutes ago, I took my stepdad out in the car to demonstrate my findings. On the first drive (about 5-10 minutes) the car acted like it did when I had driven it earlier in the day (not downshifting, hesitating, lack of power, etc.), and the check engine light came on. He wanted to drive the car to see for himself. So we pulled over, shut off the engine and switched seats. He got behind the wheel, started the car, the check engine light is still on. But the car ran perfectly. It was starting out from 1st gear and would downshift promptly when give full throttle. Performance was immensely improved. The check engine light is still on though. The car has a 1 year bumper to bumper warranty. So I guess they can bring it in to have it looked at.
I'm just sort of at a loss as to why the car performed so poorly when I drove it, and all of a sudden performed correctly, after the engine was restarted.
Mercedes-benz - Sl-class :: 1987 - At Start Up Shaking And Knocking Noise
I got a Mercedes Benz, SL560, US style, 8 cylinders, from 1987, mileage around 130 000I got the camshafts, rockers, and valve changed these days as the lifters were a little worn out as I was told. So I decided to do it now than later. But since the mechanic changed them I get a bad knocking noise and shaking at start up. It disappears after up to 5 minutes. The mechanic said he only changed the parts. That's it. Nothing else done. When I was there doing the work I say him using the chain. I left the shop as I could not wait till the work was done.
Someone told me that the clearance of the valve has to be checked and adjusted. Mechanics say that it is not possible as my engine is W117 and there is nothing to adjust. It will do it automatically. I took the car back as clearly that mechanic could not do anything else then for the car. He also does not want the car back. He hung up when we tried to ask him to check the car again (like checking the timing chain). Well. In between I asked another shop to check it. They replaced only 3 rockers again. They were new!!! There was a slight damage on them. I guess this is the part of the rockers where you put the screwdriver on. That is why it was a bit "damaged".This second mechanic said I should just drive the car as the problem will be less in ... dont know when. Hundred of miles, days, weeks?
I am not satisfied with this situation and therefore I am here to ask what the problem might be. This wasnt there before the camshaft was changed!I cannot really make the mechanic do what I am asking for. I am now in an asian country and they do what they wanna do. I am only there to pay high prices and nothing is done what I wanted. With this mechanic I am trying to get him to check the timing chain (chain tension) and plastic guide rails? Could this cause the problem or also something else?I wanna know what it might be so that I can tell mechanic when he picks up the car.
Start - Lights - Mercedes-benz - C-class :: 1996 - Won't Start When Weather Cold?
My 96 mercedes c280 will not start in the winter. I moved from florida to ohio and when it gets close to freezing or below my car will not start. The lights on rear view mirror (immobilizer lights) blink for 30 sec. I have to wait any where from 5-30 min. to start car depending on how cold it is, otherwise car runs great.
View 2 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: 2002 - Won't Start - Acts Like It Wants To Start But It Doesn't
My 2002 Mercedes E320 has on 2 occasions not started. When you turn the key it acts like it wants to start but it does not. I then wait about 15min and the thing will then start. what is going on?
View 3 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: 1999 - Loud Bang And Car Become Motionless When Start From Stop Light
1999MB 320 Automatic trans .... Stopped at a light went to start heard a loud bang car became motionless? Trans has 60k and never a shifting issue.
View 1 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: ABS / EPS And BAS Warning Lights Come On And Goes Away
I have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.
View 1 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: 1989 - Whines Over 40 MPH
I have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?
View 9 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Mystery Leak In The Hydraulic
I have a 91 Mercedes with 153,000 miles thats terrific but the mystery leak in the hydraulic running the rear suspension is driving me nuts. Especially when the hydraulics call for factory spec fluid.
View 3 RepliesMercedes-benz - Clk-class :: Hydraulic Lines Broke Again
I have a '05 Mercedes CLK320 convertible that I purchased 3 years ago with about 29,000 miles on it. Two years ago the hydraulic lines in the top blew and I spent about $3,000 to have it repaired. Today, the lines blew again. What I'm trying to find out is: - Is this common in this car? Or in any convertible?- Did I just get a lemon?- If this isn't a common problem, should the dealer that repaired the hydraulics 2 years ago fix them again for free?
It only has 70,000 miles on it now and I was under the impression that I could drive a Mercedes for a couple hundred thousand miles without a too much mechanical problem. But if this is going to be an ongoing issue, I'm going to get rid of the car, even though I absolutely love it. It's ruby red, of course!
Mercedes-benz - E-class :: Squeaky Brakes Particularly When Backing Up
My brakes squeak from time to time, particularly backing up, but also braking forward. My mechanic said I have plenty of brake pad and nothing is being damaged. He said he has often seen the "squeaky brakes" problem in Mercedes and it is often difficult to pinpoint which wheel (or wheels) would be the cause of the squeaking (sound like metal on metal). Why this is happening?
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