Suspension - Mercedes-benz - S-class :: 1987 - Rough Idle And Stalls / RPMs Drop
Hot or cold car always starts,Idles perfect , then RPM drops, Idles rough and stalls. Econometer moves to Red area.car will easily restart and drives well,it also idles well. Once engine is shut down, even for a short while, It does the same thing again. Car is used for short trips. Ambient Temperature 80 degrees. Once running car is perfect at all speeds and idles smoothly. Hero 1987 MB 560 sel ....
View 19 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: 1994 - Stalling At Idle
My 1994 mercedes C220 stalls at idle. the local mercedes dealer told me that it is caused by the alternator overcharging. can this be true??
View 2 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: CEL Starting Blinking And Car Idling Extremely Rough
Recently I brought my car for an oil change. They put the recommended full synthetic oil in and when I left the cel starting blinking and the car idling extremely rough. I brought the car immediately back (only drove ~1/4 mi.). They discovered that they put too much oil in the car. Despite their efforts of removing oil and changing filter x2, they could not get the cel to stop blinking or the car running correctly. I brought the car to the closest repair facility with diagnostic capability and they noted the car was still 1qt overfull and multiple misfire, and cam shaft actuator codes were happening. Car was towed to dealership where they diagnosed fouled plugs attributed to too much oil. Oil change facility paid towing, repair and diagnostic bills for their mistake. In the subsequent 2 weeks my car was towed two more times to dealership. Once for going into limp mode after misfires and once for fuel pump dying. Is this all a coincidence or could this be repercussions from botched oil change? Dealership says it is just coincidental.
Car is a 2007 Mercedes clk350 cabriolet.
Mercedes-benz - C-class :: Started Running Rough After About 30 Minutes Of Drive
I've got a merc C230 Kompressor that has 174k miles on it. The car typically runs really well and is not underpowered or anything. Last weekend I took a road trip that was 400 miles or so. The car did fine for the first 300 miles but then began running rough and was underpowered. Was acting like there was a fouled plug. I pulled over and stopped the car where it sat for about 5 mins. When I restarted the car, it was back to normal, with a smooth idle and not underpowered. It ran fine for about 30 mins and then began running rough and underpowered. I find that when it starts running rough, if I stop the car and turn it all the way off for at least 60 seconds, then when i turn it back on it will operate normally again for a bit. This also only seems to be happening when its really hot weather, 90 degrees F or higher.
View 5 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: 2000 - Riding Rough Particularly At Low Speeds And When Idling
My 2000 Mercedes C230 Kompressor's been riding rough, particularly at low speeds and when idling. I took it in to see if engine mounts needed replacement, and yes they do, but my mechanic also found that I've blown or cracked the head gasket. Coolant has solidified around the gasket, keeping it from leaking now, but he indicated that with the next rain, that solidified coolant would be washed away and the car wouldn't be able to hold coolant. The car has 160,000 miles, recent brakes and tune up (should he have seen the gasket problem at tune up???).
View 9 RepliesStall - Mercedes-benz - E-class :: E320 Stalls At Idle When Cold
Car: 2000 Mercedes-Benz E320 (W210) 4matic
This car runs beautifully if the air temperature is above 60 degrees or so (maybe 65) Fahrenheit.
If the air temperature, however, is much cooler, and the engine has had enough time to cool to air temperature, it stalls. Here's the sequence:- Start the car. Car runs fine, sounds good. Initial idle speed about 1200-1500 RPM.- Wait for car to warm up for a few seconds so it settles into normal idle. Idle speed settles to about 800 RPM after 5-20 seconds, depending upon air temperature.- Shift car into gear (D or R - doesn't matter). Idle speed drops to 500 or so, then the car stalls.- Restart the car. Allow it to warm up significantly (how much depends upon air temperature). - Shift into gear (D or R). Engine idle speed drops a bit, then recovers to ~800 RPM. No problems after that.
If it's a little cool (55-60 degrees Fahrenheit), I can drive off once the engine temp gauge needle rises a few degrees (45-50 degrees Centigrade).If it's around freezing (20-40 degrees Fahrenheit), I can't drive off until the engine temp gauge reaches nearly 80 degrees Centigrade.
If I'm on a hill (pointing down), I can start at a slightly lower temperature by allowing the car to start rolling as soon as I shift into gear. In this case, there's less resistance, so the idle speed doesn't go low enough to stall the car. If I am on a level surface (or pointing uphill), 80 degrees Centigrade seems to be almost a magic number when the air temperature is below 40 Fahrenheit (near freezing). When the needle is showing about 78 degrees Centigrade, the car will still stall. When it reaches 80 degrees Centigrade, the car is fine, and will not even come close to stalling when put in gear.
ONE CONFUSING VARIABLE: When I took this to my mechanic, it didn't exhibit the problem for him. When I picked it up (about 30 Fahrenheit), it stalled. He came out and started it, put it into gear, and it idled without stalling. I got in and let him watch while I got in, started it, put it into gear, and it stalled. We have no explanation as to why this would be any different (we tried several times, varying techniques, brake pressure, etc., with the same confusing results).
Mercedes-benz - M-class :: Engine Stumbles When Hit A Spot Of Rough Pavement Or Minor Bump
2000 ML430 230,000 mi. The engine starts and all is fine until I hit a spot of rough pavement or a minor bump and the engine "stumbles," feels like it has cut out or starving for fuel. I have been unable to tell whether it is left front or rear right tire or corner of the car that hits the bump and starts the engine running on limp home.Once it happens and I stop at a light then hit the gas, I can count to 4 before the engine responds, making left turns dangerous. MB factory service since new. The dealer has replaced spark plug wires, spark plugs, crankcase sensor, gas pedal sensor and still the same problem. I think it is a loose wire or ground since it only happens after I go over a bump(even a seam on concrete any jiggle does it).
View 3 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class - Fuel-economy :: Idle Speed / Wasting A Lot Of Gas Sitting At Stop Lights And In Traffic
A few months ago I bought a used 2007 Mercedes C280. Overall, I've been very happy with the car. The first month or so was heavy on longer highway driving, and it seemed to be getting decent gas mileage. The last couple of months have been mostly short range city driving, and the mileage seems significantly less. I wonder about the idle speed, on the assumption that it may be wasting a lot of gas sitting at stop lights and in traffic. The tachometer reading isn't always consistent at idle, but fairly often it's up close to 9,000 rpm. What should I be seeing, and does this need attention?
View 6 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: Losing Power Going Uphill - Random Occurrence
I've got a 1994 Mercedes C220 which recently has been losing power going uphill. This is a random occurrence but starting to happen more frequently. When going up a hill the car engine starts to "miss" and the engine sounds like its fluttering. It is definitely losing power.When I get to the top of the hill; if I turn the engine off and restart it all goes back to normal and runs properly.what is it??
View 2 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Engine Revving Hard - Whining Noise - No Power To Drive
This morning while listening to cartalk I am stopped at a stop sign. I press on the gas to start off from stop - hear a loud bang as if I hit something. All of a sudden my engine is revving hard, whining noise but no power to drive. Luckily I had enough gradient to put the car in neutral and float it to a stop by the curb. Car does not move on Drive or Reverse but engine runs fine and revs up but no power to both axle. Where the issue is? The car is 82K miles and has driven great. where is the issue??? Axle break down/ CV joint break down/transfer case break down/ What is it?
View 18 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: ABS / EPS And BAS Warning Lights Come On And Goes Away
I have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.
View 1 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: 1989 - Whines Over 40 MPH
I have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?
View 9 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Just Quit And Would Not Start
While on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...
View 5 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Difficult Start - CEL On?
The check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
View 19 RepliesWindows - Mercedes-benz - C-class :: 1974 - 2 Power Windows Are Not Working?
I have a 1974 Mercedes 280 C. Two of the power windows no longer work...the driver rear (stuck down) and the passenger front (stuck up). The problem started with middle console switches...the right bank (passenger controls) the small chrome surrounding piece popped off and caused the switches to get stuck then fall apart. I was trying to put them back together and got a spark...ooops car was on and i was using metal tweezers...then the rear driver side no longer worked??? others work. Do the switches need to be replaced or is it a bigger electrical problem. Checked fuses...all fine.
View 2 RepliesMercedes-benz - E-class :: Mystery Leak In The Hydraulic
I have a 91 Mercedes with 153,000 miles thats terrific but the mystery leak in the hydraulic running the rear suspension is driving me nuts. Especially when the hydraulics call for factory spec fluid.
View 3 RepliesMercedes-benz - Clk-class :: Hydraulic Lines Broke Again
I have a '05 Mercedes CLK320 convertible that I purchased 3 years ago with about 29,000 miles on it. Two years ago the hydraulic lines in the top blew and I spent about $3,000 to have it repaired. Today, the lines blew again. What I'm trying to find out is: - Is this common in this car? Or in any convertible?- Did I just get a lemon?- If this isn't a common problem, should the dealer that repaired the hydraulics 2 years ago fix them again for free?
It only has 70,000 miles on it now and I was under the impression that I could drive a Mercedes for a couple hundred thousand miles without a too much mechanical problem. But if this is going to be an ongoing issue, I'm going to get rid of the car, even though I absolutely love it. It's ruby red, of course!
Mercedes-benz - E-class :: Squeaky Brakes Particularly When Backing Up
My brakes squeak from time to time, particularly backing up, but also braking forward. My mechanic said I have plenty of brake pad and nothing is being damaged. He said he has often seen the "squeaky brakes" problem in Mercedes and it is often difficult to pinpoint which wheel (or wheels) would be the cause of the squeaking (sound like metal on metal). Why this is happening?
View 2 RepliesMercedes-benz - C-class :: 2002 - Intermittent Start Up
Car starts intermittently, have heard this is common on Mercedes Benz cars, whats the fix? I do my own maintenance on my cars have tools ect.
View 9 Replies