Ford - Focus :: Stalls In The Cold Until Engine Thoroughly Warmed Up

I have a question about my 2000 Ford Focus. It has problems in the cold. When the air temperature is below -5 or so, after driving a short while (before the engine is up to temperature) if you come to a stop and the the engine go to idle it will stall. It does this while the car is still in motion (as it is a manual) and you aren't in gear coming to a stop light.

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Ford - Focus :: 2006 - Warning Lights For Check Engine And ABS Come On Randomly

Ford Focus Station Wagon 2006 - Seems to have electrical problem. Warning lights for check engine and ABS come on randomly. Also when car is parked and temperature is low, Clock time is lost and radio stations are lost. Is there some type of grounding issue?

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Ford - Focus :: 2001 ZX3 Randomly Stalling But No Check Engine Light

I have a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3 (2D Hatchback) that has been randomly stalling since we bought it. There is no engine light, the dealership couldn't get it to stall and just gave it back. Another garage got it to stall and thought it might be the "idle-oxygen sensor" (not sure if I'm remembering the name correctly), but that didn't stop it from stalling either.

My wife is ready to dump it, but even spending a couple thousand a year on repairs is less than the grand total of a year's payments on a new car, insurance, etc. But it would be nice to fix it.

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 - Engine Will Randomly Die When Lets Off The Throttle

Well, not an escape, it is a mazda tribute. but it is the same thing as an escape. My sister just called. as she is driving down the road, if she lets off the throttle the engine will randomly die. it did it 2 times sunday, once yesterday, and once today, as she was talking to me. It will not die at traffic lights, just as you let off the throttle sometimes. today it did it at 45 mph. When it dies she just pops it in neutral, restarts it, puts it back in drive, and it is fine. No check engine light after restarting. What I should look at when she brings it over this weekend?

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Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2013 Limited Just Randomly Turned Itself Off In Stop And Go Traffic

We decided to take a chance on Hyundai (never owned one before) and get an Elantra. Anyway, the car has 2,000 miles on it. My husband was in stop and go traffic today on the interstate and said the car just randomly turned itself off, out of nowhere. He started it back up and had no problems after that, but I am very concerned. It makes me question the reliability of the car to be honest. We've only had it 6 weeks! I am wondering about whether to take it immediately to the dealership or wait to see if it happens again. I don't want my husband going down a hill or something and the car randomly shuts off, so I guess safety is an issue. What would you do?

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2003 - Engine Stalls Randomly And Skips / CEL Came On

have had many problems with my 2003 Accent. I am not a mechanic, but I suspect the problems are related. My engine sometimes stalls when I sit at a red light. I drive about twenty miles to work. On a good day it will just sputter occasionally. On a bad day it will stall as many as three times. It also frequently "skips" a little while driving. It's like a split second hiccup in engine power.

I also used to have a really hard time filling the gas tank. It would take about fifteen minutes when close to empty. I have had it worked on three times over the past three weeks. First they replaced the timing belt (which I already knew needed to be replaced). Then they replaced something called a charcoal canister and blew out all the vapor vents(?) ( Again, I am not a mechanic). After that the car ran ok for about two days, and I can now fill the tank in about two minutes. But, it began stalling again, just as bad as before. So, they replaced something called a MAP sensor (MAFF?).

It has been a couple of days and the car hasn't stalled . . . yet. However, it still skips occasionally while driving, and my engine light has come on again. The mechanic says the code has something to do with a barometric pressure problem. what might be wrong with it?

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Ford - Focus :: 2005 - Battery Light Has Been Come On Randomly

I have a a 2005 Focus, 199,000 miles. The battery light has been come on randomly. It doesn't seen to be related to any other event in the car. Things I've done to diagnose it...

I cleaned the battery cable connections before I started any diagnostics.

I have two code reader and no codes are being thrown.

I connected a multimeter to the battery while the car was idling in the driveway.

I got 13.8-14.1 volts as the car sat and ran. When the light came on no change on the meter.

I have a Scan Gauge that allows me to watch the voltage in real time. Four days and no change when the light came on. ~13.8-14.1 at idle and ~14.1-14.4 underway.

I have the Car Chip. I plugged it in drove for about 10 runs and the voltage trace was pretty flat on all runs, battery light on or off.

The only thing that is consistent is if the light is on and I rev the engine it goes out BUT they rpm when the light goes is inconsistent.

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Stalling - Nissan - Frontier - Xterra :: 2003 - Engine Hesitating And Stalls Randomly

2003 NISSAN Xterra

Problem started a couple of days ago. While driving the car normally it suddenly stopped. I was able to restart it but it turned off again 60 seconds later. This has gone on with the engine running from 10 minutes to 10 seconds. The battery terminals and all cables are clean. Distributor cap and rotors have been cleaned. Fuel pump replaced last night. I still get the problem. Error codes listed were: P0328 - Pre Detonation (knock sensor) Bank 1 causes could be restricted fuel - over temp engine. Now this error has been coming up for five years and I've replaced the sensor numerous times. P0732 - Gear 2 Incorrect RatioP0102 - Mass Air Flow Low InputP1148 - Closed Loop Control Function, BANK 1P0420 - Catalytic Convertor, BANK 1P0134 - O2 Sensor No Activity, BANK 1

Regarding Fuel Starvation - NOPE, Engine Too Hot (it wasn't), Second Gear Not Within Ratio (never had gear problems), Knock Sensor and most error codes have been related to bank one. Error codes on car computer were erased and engine is still hesitating slightly and stopping. Just checked Mass Airflow Sensor and it looks clean.

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Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Engine Stays At Higher RPM When Press Slightly On Accelerator

When I press slightly on the accelerator just to get the truck moving and than let off the engine stays at the higher RPM typically just over a 1000. This only happens in drive not reverse and everytime I just slightly step on the accelerator. The truck only has 1K miles on it.

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Ford - Focus :: 2000 - Stalls In Reverse And Sometimes In Idle

I have a 2000 Ford Focus Wagon with 114,00o miles on it. I'm having a problem determining why it is stalling in reverse and also sometimes while it is idling. I've had the idle speed motor replaced, hoses checked, etc. After we had these things done the car seemed a little better but I could still feel the car hinting at wanting to stall.

I also noticed it usually stalls in reverse when I'm turning the steering wheel but not if I'm backing up in a straight line. It also feels like it wants to stall when it sits at a long traffic light. Before I had the idle speed motor replaced it stalled more often - several times a week. However, now it stalls a little less.

On another note, the car seems to idle a little rough. It almost sounds like a diesel engine. It seems to simmer down some once the engine is warm. I had a new water pump installed and a timing belt put in and now I can hear a squeaking sound coming from that area of the engine. I'm not sure if any of these symptoms are related.

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Ford - Focus :: 2002 - Stalls In Park After Battery / Alternator Replacement

Last week, I brought my 2002 Ford Focus (automatic transmission) to the mechanic to have an oil change and to have the motor mounts and cabin air filter replaced. Before I brought the car in, it was fairly loud at idle--which had been going on for a couple of years and which I attributed to the worn motor mounts--but had otherwise been running fine.

When I went to pick it up after the repairs, the car would not start. The mechanic ran some tests and told me that the alternator was overcharging the battery. The battery could no longer hold a charge, so both the alternator and the battery needed to be replaced, which the mechanic did.

I thought at first that everything was OK after the battery and alternator replacement. Because I almost always turn my car off immediately after putting it in park, I didn't realize what was happening and that it was a problem... but in retrospect, I realize that ever since I got the car back from this second set of repairs, the battery light has flashed on during the split second between when I shift to park and when I turn the ignition off.

Yesterday, I took my car back to the mechanic because it stalled when I was in the parking lot at work. (I realize now that it must have happened just after I shifted gears, probably into park.) Since that was the first time it had actually properly stalled--rather than just a quick battery light flash just before I turned the car off--I had not yet made the connection between the stalling and the shifting to park, so all I told the mechanic is that it stalled on me when I was slowing to a stop. I'm pretty sure the first time it stalled was the first time I let it idle for more than a half-second in park before turning off the ignition.

He kept my car for a full day and ran a lot of tests on it. He was unable to make the car stall during multiple test drives (though, to be fair, I hadn't told him that the trigger for making it stall was shifting to park because I didn't realize it myself yet). There were no engine codes, the check engine light was never on, the fuel pressure is OK, and the throttle body position sensor, the idle air control valve, the ignition system, and the fuel system were giving no abnormal readings. When I asked, he told me that they did perform an idle-relearn procedure after replacing the battery and alternator. He returned the car to me and told me to come back if it stalled again.

Tonight, when I got the car home, it started to die immediately when I put it into park (the headlights dimmed and the battery light came on). I was able to reproduce this a second time as well. Fortunately, it does start back up just fine.

I plan to take the car in for repairs again, but I'm wondering if I should go back to the same mechanic. My questions are:

1) What is likely to be causing the problem?
2) Is it something that is likely to have been caused by incompetence when installing the new battery and alternator or doing other repairs, or could it be a coincidence (I was willing to believe the first coincidence of the battery and alternator dying while the car was at the repair shop, but I'm having difficulty believing a second coincidence)?
3) Whether or not the problem is likely to be the mechanic's fault, is it something that a thorough check on their part should have discovered?

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Ford - Focus :: 2005 - Stutter Like Throttle Closed For A Split Second / No Acceleration

I have a 2005 Focus 2.0 ZX5 manual. 131,000 miles. I believe this has been an ongoing intermittent issue until now. Occasionally while driving before at 45-75 mph I would sometimes get a stutter like the throttle closed for a split second. Now, after installing a K&N CAI the dang thing is about undriveable. At idle no load the engine will not rev, step on the gas and all I get is a groan, pop pop groan slooooow climb in revs to @ 2000 rpm then quickly up to the fuel cut off. In gear , 1st or 2nd, trying to roll out off idle I get nothing more groan sloooow climb up to 2000 rpm then accelerates normally.

At speed in any gear when RPMs drop below 2000 rpm it will not accelerate no matter how hard I press on pedal. Up above 2000 rpm mostly normal unless I get out of throttle, then I get a bucking sensation from engine. I can pull away from stop if I give lots of revs and slip the clutch....not so good for clutch life...The MIL is on, P0113 IAT high bypass. Cleaned old MAF no difference. Replaced MAF no difference. Got a too rich code also but cannot remember DTC. I have also checked for air leaks after the MAF and it all seems rather buttoned up.

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Ford - Focus :: Taillights And Dashlights Out / Trunk Randomly Kept Popping Open As Driving

I drive a 2006 Ford Focus. Last night, when I turned on my car, a number of things happened. (I should add that it was very cold, if that makes a difference)

1) My dashlights no longer work. The warning lights work fine, and I have checked the dial to make sure they are turned up, but I can no longer see what speed I am going when it is dark.
2) My taillights no longer work. One of the bulbs had previously blown, but now, the only ones that work are the rear blinkers.
3) My left driver side headlight is no longer working.
4) My trunk randomly kept popping open as I was driving. It has stopped doing so, but I am not sure if the problem is gone for good.

The mechanic wants to charge me $100 / hr just to even check the problem and indicated the diagnostics may take several hours. Having just replaced two tires, that option is far beyond my means.

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Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2013 Limited - Rear Defroster Button Never Stayed On / No Heated Mirrors

I bought a used 2013 F150 Limited. The truck only had 24,000 miles on it and is still under the 36/36 warranty.

I tried to use the rear defroster and the button never stayed on. As I started to investigate the truck through the owners manual I realized that it was supposed to come with heated mirrors, standard equipment on the limited, and it shows them on the VIN build out. It does not have the heated mirrors installed.

I take it to my local dealer to get the rear defroster fixed and have the mirrors installed and the dealer won't do it. I have to call Ford and open a case. I do this and Ford rejects my claim since I bought it used.

To me this shows a very poor business ethic and is disrespectful to a long time loyal Ford customer. To be honest this has really ticked me off and completely turned me off towards Ford.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2014 F250 6.2L Gas Engine Stalls At Highway Speeds

2014 F250 SuperDuty 6.2L gasser, x-cab long bed work truck. 105k miles, original owner, 1 driver, mostly highway miles, well maintained and super clean truck.

First issue occurred at 83k miles, Aug 2016. Warm summer day climbing I-70 in CO, slightly loaded, and just entered the Eisenhower tunnel (11,150' altitude). Lost power, no RPMs - not running, I put it in N and rolled as far as I could. Hazards on and no-where to pull over, hugging the wall and blocking one lane. Power OK - will crank, no fire. 1/3 tank on the fuel gauge and >100 miles distance to empty on the trip computer. Tunnel rescue shut down traffic and pushed me out into the daylight.

After waiting an hour to fill our paper work for disabling the interstate tunnel I returned to the truck which quickly started. No symptoms, no lights, no codes. Topped off the fuel tank after a easy 15 mile drive downhill. Drove another 800 miles symptom free to my destination and checked it in at the dealer. At this time a check engine light had finally illuminated - PO420. I shared the story of stalling out at highway speeds with the Service Writer. Dealer replaced the cats, confirmed fuel pressure OK, computer condition OK, serviced the trans (at my request).

No symptoms reoccurred during the next 20k miles until last weekend. 105k on the OD now. Heading to Flagstaff, AZ on I-40 in similar conditions. Hot, AC running, climbing in elevation, slightly loaded, running on the bottom 1/3 of the fuel tank... Died while cruising at 79 mph. Well, at least this time I wasn't in a tunnel and had a shoulder to pull off on. Deja-Vu - full power, radio on, no engine lights, gauges normal, fuel reads over 1/4 tank, >100 miles till empty on the trip computer - won't start. Cranks, but no fire. Some sputtering during start attempts must have triggered the next trouble code.

Opened the hood, removed the gas cap, let it vent and cool for about 30-40 mins while I took a walk. Returned to the truck which easily started and let me drive to the next fuel station, 30 miles away. This time the check engine light stayed illuminated. It took 24 gals of fuel. Drove 3 more hours and almost 200 miles without symptoms - check engine light still illuminated keeping me curious and fully alert along the way.

Got the codes pulled at a parts store that was open on Sunday. PO300 & PO301. Random misfires and cylinder 1 misfires. Sounds consistent with poor fuel supply? Spent the rest of the day searching forums for any clue to this highway stalling. All I came up with was to clear the computer - disconnect battery, turn lights on, wait 15 mins, reconnect battery, start engine, apply brake, drive, etc. This and another full tank of gas gave me enough courage to set out on my trip home.

Next occurrence was just outside of Santa Fe, NM. Similar conditions again: Hot day, AC kicking, Interstate travelling about 80mph, slightly loaded, climbing in elevation, fuel tank just below half - stalled out. Repeat previous learned routine. Open hood, vent gas cap, walk it off for 30 mins, return to truck, start it up. Drive to next town and top off with fuel about 30 miles away - only took 16 gals! Made it home 4 hours later without stopping. No repeat symptoms, no check engine lights.

The next day a code - PO420. Catalytic efficiency below threshold.

Quick recap:

6.2L gas engine stalling at hwy speeds.
Cruising between 65-80mph
-Interstate travel - no stops between last fillup and stall.
-Warm weather, AC on
-Running on bottom ~1/2 tank
-climbing in elevation, slightly loaded

To clarify: slightly loaded - no trailer, maybe 1,500 lbs bed cargo, mostly wind drag. The most I have pumped into the fuel tank is 29-30 gals or so. I assume I have the 34 or 35 gal tank. Never seen the calculated "distance to empty" below 40 miles.

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Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 - Engine Running At Wide Open Throttle With No Input From Pedal?

I got in a work truck yesterday, sat down, put my seat belt on and started the truck. Just as I did that another employee drove by and waved, all I could do was nod back at him because my hand was still starting the truck. This took my attention away for a split second, then as I put the truck in gear, my foot still on the brake, I noticed that the tachometer was pegged and the engine was racing. I instinctively pushed harder on the brake pedal, then looked down to be sure that I was pushing on the brake pedal and I was. Right then then rear of the truck started shaking violently and as fast as I could I turned the key off and put it back in park. This all happened in about 1 second, maybe 2.

The shaking was caused by the sheared off driveshaft. And it was sheared off because the center section of the rear differential had broken the spot welds that hold it and place and rotated on the axel housings. It is now pointing upward towards the bed of the truck. Have a drive by wire truck run the engine at wide open throttle with no input from the pedal? 2010 F150 4.6L...

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Ford - Engines - Focus :: 2011 - Transmission Malfunction - When Shifting Up Gears Throttle Remains High - Dropping Very Slowly

2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.

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Find Build Date For 2014 Avalon Hybrid Limited?

Where do I find the build date for my 14 avalon hybrid limited?

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Avalon 2014 Hybrid Limited - Battery Depleting / Draining Itself

I am the new owner of a 2014 Avalon Hybrid limited.

I am pretty exited about the new car. I just have questions about the hybrid battery.

I got the car on Saturday and we drove about 40 miles to get home. The car had 12 miles so it's pretty low. The battery was low when we got the car so the engine charged it up a bit. By the time we got home, the hybrid battery never got to fully charge.

Hence my first questions.

What are the perfect conditions to fully charge the battery?

How much time would it take to fully charge it?

Then, my next question.

I was pretty sure that when we parked the car on Saturday night and Sunday, the battery charge level was pretty high. At least half way.

However, when i got to use the car in the morning, the battery level was at 2 bars to my surprise.

Is the battery supposed to deplete like that?

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