Dodge - D150 :: Missing At About 45 MPH
My Dodge 150 truck starts missing at about 45 mph. It seems to only do this after it has warmed up for about 20 minutes.
View 1 RepliesDodge - D150 :: 1979 - Distributor Won't Come Out?
I have a '79 D100 that needs a new distributor. I've removed the two necessary bolts that I know of. I've tried to twist it, and will will barely turn. I've tried to pry it up. I've loosened a few bolts in the area to see if that relieved pressure. I've degreased the area and sprayed WD40 at the base of it and still nothing.
View 3 RepliesDodge - D150 :: Squealing When First Start And Get On The Gas
I have a 1984 dodge d150 ramcharger i just bought and it has all sorts of problems I am trying to fix as part of a learning process for me. One problem is it squeals when i first start it when i get on the gas. The faster the rpms the louder the squeal...
View 3 RepliesDodge - D150 :: Truck Won't Charge
Having trouble with my truck not charging. Changed out alternator, v/r and battery and still will not charge.
View 19 RepliesDodge - D150 :: 1992 - Chokes / Stalls At Around 55 Mph
Purchased a new-to-us 1st gen dodge pickup, a 92 D150 v6. It's used once or twice a week at max and only has around 90k miles on it.
So a few months after we bought the truck, it stalled, or more like choked, out while driving on these country, hilly roads, at around 50 mph.. it happened once and we didn't think much of it. It happened again not too long after that, though, and we discovered we could push through the stall/choke by giving it a lot of gas.. it sounds terrible, and shakes and sputters, but eventually catches back and starts to run normal.
As months passed, the problem happened more often. So we changed the spark plugs and wires recently. No difference. In a given 40 minute trip along 45-55 mph country roads, the truck will choke and sputter at least 5 or 6 times. It's now so bad that sometimes giving it gas isn't enough to fix the issue and we have to pull over.
We've got an appt scheduled with a mechanic, Our friends think maybe it has to do with the choke plate or carburetor. It seems to happen more often if the AC is on, and other than this, the truck runs great. It starts up fast and idles fine.
Dodge - D150 :: 1963 - Ignition Coils Burning Out
I have a 63 dodge pickup with a habit of burning out ignition coils within 2 weeks. It's happened with the slant 6 motor, it's happened with the 318 v8 and its also happened with the current motor a 440. I have changed the ballast resistor, and the ignition switch, as well as the starter solenoid, and all related wiring.
View 4 RepliesDodge - D150 :: 1990 - Parking Lights Won't Turn On
I bought a dodge d150 a month ago. when i bought it, the lights work fine. one night i pulled out the headlight switch to turn the lights on, and the headlights came on, but no parking/running lights came on, and the back lighting didn't come on. if i sit there and jiggle the switch between off and where the original "notch" for the parking lights were, i can get them to come on intermittently. but they turn off as soon as i let go of the knob. all the other lights work, headlights, directional, hazards, reverse lights, cargo light...
View 4 RepliesDodge - D150 :: 1991 - Leaking Freeze Plug Right Behind The Starter
91 Dodge D150 1/2 ton truck with a 318 (5.2L). Approx. 135K miles. Noticed a leaking freeze plug right behind the starter. Removed the starter & replaced the offending plug. I've also replaced other plugs on the block as needed in the past. While I had the starter out, I went ahead and replaced it as it was getting old & tired. After buttoning everything up while adding coolant, I got a major waterfall coming out between the trans and the engine block.
My project for today is to remove the transmission so I can get to the rear plugs and replace. How many plugs are back there? I'm obviously changing all the plugs back there along with the rear main seal. Is there any advantage going with the brass plugs or should I just stick with the regular ones?
Dodge - D150 :: Overheating / Smoke A Little More At Start-up And Lasts A Little Longer
Had a couple bad freeze plugs that made my old 91 D150 with a 318 overheat severely. The truck is repaired but does smoke a little more than it used to at start-up and lasts a little longer. Also when stopped at traffic lights, It will belch a puff upon acceleration. Did the overheat affect oil condition and should I just go ahead and change it? Should I run some Marvel Mystery Oil through it before the change to maybe (hopefully) loosen up the piston rings? I know the valve guide seals are due for replacement but that's another project down the road. I've decided not to do anything with the fuel filter on the Camry...
View 1 RepliesDodge - D150 :: 1990 - New Fuel Pump Wasn't Grounded
1990 Dodge Ram Van.... How hard is this to fix. Some Guys in Los Banos took two days to replace a fuel pump. End result, new pump not grounded so continually drains battery unless I mess with a fuse everytime I start/stop car.
View 2 RepliesElantra MD (2010-15) :: RPMs Drop / Car Bogging Down When Shift Into 4th Gear
I am not sure if it's my imagination or not, but my car seems to be running differently lately.
When the car shifts into 4th the Rpms seem to drop kind of and the car seems like it is bogging down. Not extreme, but I don't remember this when I first got it. It's like I really have to accelerate when it shifts into 4th or I cannot pick any speed up.
Is it because the motor is now broken in? It has right at 8,000 miles now. It's due for an oil change, but I wouldn't think that would have anything to do with it !
Camry :: 2005 - At Startup RPMs Keeps On Dropping And Stalls?
I have '05 Camry v4. Everything was fine but three days ago I started to have issues. At first I tried starting the engine it would fire up with RPMs going to about 2000 as per usual start. Instead of going down to 800 as it usually does the RPMs just keep on dropping until car stalls. On the first day it started happening I would simply try to start the car again and it would start.
Progressively it would take me more tries to start the engine. It's always the same way (be it a cold start or a start after I've just drove for a while). First try - the engine starts and stalls right away and after that I have to keep on trying to start it for some time. So finally it wouldn't start at all. Starter cranks, battery fine, but the car simply would not start. Weird part about it, is that once the car starts it acts completely normal. No spikes in RPMs, no loss of power, nothing! At this point I just don't know what the hell it is.
Dodge - Durango :: Oil Pressure Dropping To 0 For A While / Engine Revving Really High
My oil pressure had been dropping to 0 for a while. After searching the internet, I replaced the oil sending unit. This seemed to fix the issue for a while - until I was going up some hills, and the engine began revving really high, and the oil pressure once again dropped to 0. I then heard some noise from the engine, so I pulled over and turned it off. I had it towed to a garage, and told the tow driver to NOT start the car, because I thought the oil pump was out, and so no oil was getting to the engine.
I then called the garage, and told them it was coming in, and NOT to start it, because the engine was not getting oil, and I thought oil pump might be bad. They called me back an hour later to tell me they had added some oil and started it, and the engine was gone.
First question, is would a good garage have tried starting the car with the information they had? My expectation was that they would have tried to check things out without starting it.
Second, should I try to replace the oil pump and see if the car starts?
Make: dodge
Model: durango
Model Year: 2000
Odometer Mileage: 205,000
Amount of oil consumed between oil changes: 1 qt
Frequency of oil changes, in terms of both odometer mileage and elapsed time: 6months, 5000 miles
Oil level was checked once every one to two weeks.
Dodge - Ram :: Oil Pressure Fluctuating - Slowly Dropping To The 1/4 Area Of Meter?
1995 RAM 2500 5.9L 2x4...
I think the wire to my oil pressure gauge might be shorting or loose, since the needle sometimes swings from 0 to the middle unexpectedly for no apparent reason. However, during my recent 350 mile trip back from FL to North GA, I noticed that while "stable", the pressure seemed to be ever so slowly dropping to the 1/4 area of the meter. I checked the oil level at every stop and it was never more than 1/2 quart from full. It did seem somewhat "black" given that I changed it and filter about 1,200 miles ago. Also, it seemed the oil was somewhat "channeling" on the dipstick... hard to explain, but it wasn't 100% coating the dipstick like I'd normally expect and seemed like wouldn't "stick" to it. Anyway, there wasn't any foaminess that would seem to indicate water in it... and I've never used any oil additives.
What can cause reduction in oil pressure? After sitting, it seems normal for a while after start-up but then tends to drop. It is possible there is some kind of "sludge" clogging something? The tranny repair guy told me that some oils contain unacceptable amounts of paraffin (a WAX)... told me to never use Quaker State and that he recommended Valvoline. He was "amused" when I told him I use the Walmart brand... Tech or something in the blue bottle. Of course, I'll change the oil THIS week... is that likely to resolve any problems? What else can cause loss of oil pressure? From what I can tell the engine seals are OK since there are never any "puddles" underneath.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Rough Idle / Engine RPMs Go Up To 2k Before Dropping Down
1999 F250 LD with 5.4 w/ 225k miles... Was running perfect yesterday when I shut the engine off. Started back up about 20 minutes later and Idles was up and down and rough.( 400 - 900 rpms) Drove and ran fine except Idle. I know that those codes are for the o2 sensors but don't believe they're bad. I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere behind throttle body. Either IAC or EGR or it could be coming from the line that runs in beside the IAC valve to the air intake in front of the throttle body. Tried spraying water in those areas with no results. Could it be a bad EGR valve or a stuck IAC valve? I have also noticed that lately when I start the engine the engine rpms go up to 2k before dropping down. Would a bad IAC valve cause such rough idling along with the codes that I described?
View 7 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: RPMs Dropping When Coasting - Cruise Control Is On
RPM's are dropping way off when coasting downhill while towing (as if the motor shut down), CC is on and maintaining desired speed. When at the bottom of the hill, all of a sudden, with a big bang(in the motor) the rpm's have came back up and you drive on down the road as normal. This seems to happen only when towing. "99 F250 7.3 I haven't pulled any codes as of yet. Whats happening?
View 14 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: RPMs Dropping To Low When Coming To A Quick Stop
I recently started noticing that when I am coming to a stop(usually a quick stop), the trucks rpms drop to low. hard to tell how low but looks like around 450-500 rpms. I can feel the truck struggle just for a second then the rpms bounce back to 650-700. i was sitting in my truck while in park and was revving up to about 1200 and then let off the pedal and it died. My positive battery terminals are getting pretty bad and am going to replace them soon(waiting on parts). Could this be the cause?
View 14 RepliesTiguan :: TCS Starts Flashing Wasn't On Gas While Recovering
So I finally got to drive my Tig 4Mo in the snow for the first time and I had some really interesting experiences. On 4 separate occasions the rear end decided to just break loose on me!
The first time I was going downhill and I had the car in auto stick and kept it in 2nd so I wouldn't have to use the brakes and im rolling along the rear starts swinging left! I counter and recover and thought ok well maybe auto stick isn't good in the snow. So I keep it in "D" for the rest of the drive and I'm chugging along no faster than 25 mph on a flat and there she goes again to the right this time... I let off the gas and counter again this time I notice the TCS start flashing as I'm recovering...
Its weird cause I wasn't on the gas anymore unlike with my 01 jetta which would only flash if I was actually accelerating....so this happens 2 more times along the way. Every time it happend I wasn't on the gas hard and I was able to recover but I'm extremely confused as to why this would EVER happen. I've driven many awd cars before in the snow and NEVER has the rear just jumped out on me without me REALLY trying to break the rear loose and it usually required a sharp turn of the wheel to do so. I was driving straight as an arrow every time she broke loose and I was barely on the gas (and not even on the gas the first time). Am I going crazy or is the something wrong with my Tig?
On a side note my TPM light is on (but all tires are fine) maybe this is bugging the computer out or something?
Prius (2010-12) Fuel :: Temps Have Been Dropping, MPG Dropping As Well
Grill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.
Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.
Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.
At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.
My two questions:
For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?
At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.