Chevrolet - Tahoe - Airconditioning :: 2004 - HVAC Works Intermittently?
2004 Chevrolet Tahoe that has the dual climate control features. Some days the A/C blows cold on one side and hot on the other with it set on the coldest setting. Another day it blows cold on both. Then you guessed it a few days later it goes back to blowing hot on one side and cold on the other.
View 2 RepliesElantra MD (2010-15) :: Fan Only Works On Highest Setting
I drive a 2012 E, and this is not about mine. It's a buddy whom has a 2013 or 2014 (I think all of the fan hardware is identical). His fan stopped working on the three lowest settings, but still blows fine on the highest setting.
Perhaps resistors knock the current down for the lower settings and they have failed? Just a wild guess....
GMC - Sierra :: 2005 - Blower Fan Would Not Run On Highest Setting
So I have a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 pickup that is in great condition. Recently, I have noticed that in the mornings on my way to work the blower fan would not run on the highest setting. After a while of driving, the highest setting would then work. This happened for about two weeks. Now, the blower will not turn on at all on any setting. Thought it might a simple fuse, but that looks fine. Should I take it to the shop? Could it be the blower motor that needs to be replaced?
View 3 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: Blower Motor Making Noise On Highest A/C Setting
My A/C has been making a loud noise for a couple months now ,only when I put the A/C on the highest setting. I was LONG overdue for a cabin air filter change so I bought a new one and while I was down there I looked inside the blower motor and here's what I saw... It is now blowing fine and not making a noise . Sprayed some Ozium New Car spray on the new cabin air filter and my car is smelling great now !
View 4 RepliesDodge - Ram :: Blower Operate Only At Highest Speed Setting - Resistor Failed
2002 Dodge Ram 3500 van (engine unknown, but I think it doesn't matter). Blower operate only at highest speed setting. OK, that's the classic symptom of a failed resistor. Replacements are readily available at chain parts stores.
Where is the resistor located? This video shows me for a 2002 Ram 1500 van. Will it be the same on the 3500?
I've learned here that sometimes resistor failure results from bearings going bad in the blower, causing excessive current draw. Is there a way to test that other than with an ammeter? What's the correct current?
2a. If the blower motor is going bad, is that something we'll be able to replace ourselves? (Yes, I should tell them to get a Haynes or Chilton.) I don't like the idea of taking off dashboard panels.
2b. Is there any other "prime cause" I should look for if the blower motor seems OK?
Are there any other parts (other than the switch) whose failure would also give that symptom?
Ford A/C :: 2010 Expedition - Blower Motor Not Turning Off / Stuck In Highest Fan Speed Setting
My 2010 Expedition Limited AC seems to be stuck in the highest fan speed setting. Changing the setting on the panel control do nothing to change the speed. But you can adjust the temp and it will respond. It is a dual control unit. When I try to turn the system to off completely it will go to what I believe is the vents and stay on full blast. If I turn the truck off and on again the whole system remains off until I turn it on again. The only way to turn it completely off is to turn it to off mode and turn the truck off.
View 1 RepliesPrizm - Chevrolet :: 1998 - Heat And Cooling System Only Works On The Highest Settings
I have a Chevrolet Prizm 1998 and the heat and cooling system only works on the highest setting which is actually the fan setting. When I have it on any of the other settings such as low or med nothing comes out, it doesn't work. I can hear it click on but nothing comes out. So when I'm driving depending on the weather I have the heat or cold air blasting out of the fan until it gets annoying and I turn it off. I've checked the fuses and they're good. I have not checked the relays because I'm not sure how to do that. I haven't taken it to a shop because I'm poor and don't have a trustworthy mechanic and it works just not on low or med. Should I have this looked at? I don't want to be causing any damage but it seems like it could be something simple.
View 2 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - Blower Works Better On A/C Compared To Max Setting?
My 2001 f350 a/c blower works better on a/c compared to max a/c . When I turn the selector to max a/c it makes more of a blowing noise but less air blows out of the vents though. When I select plain a/c it makes less noise but blows more air out of the vents. What is wrong and how to go about fixing it is 93 here today and won't get much cooler over the summer months .
View 5 RepliesChevrolet - Tahoe :: 1998 - Heater / Defrost AC Select Switch Sluggish?
1998 tahoe LT .. My truck selector switch has been acting up. when i turn the switch from defrost to AC mode it takes time before it moves the doors to the correct position. does something need lubed or do i have something that needs (or will need) replaced?
View 6 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: No Heat / Blows Cold Air No Matter What Setting At HVAC Controller?
My brother-in-law has a 97 F-150 with 4.6L that has no heat in the cab (blows cold air no matter what setting at HVAC controller). Heater core was replaced one year ago and T-stat was replaced last night. Coolant level is full and the heater hoses are BOTH hot so I believe warm coolant is flowing through the heater core. I am thinking that the HVAC controller may be at fault or maybe the mixing door in the HVAC plenum is malfunctioning. I have 97 rangers that had a broken hinge pin for the mixing door inside the plenum (a common problem with these trucks), maybe this is the same issue (I don't know). I am taking the whole dash out to see what the trouble is.
View 9 RepliesChevrolet - Montecarlo :: 2000 - Heater / Blower Only Works Sometimes
2000 Chevy Monte Carlo... The heater/blower only works sometimes, usually not at all when it's freezing out. when it's a little warmer out, it tends to work more often, but still not all the time. what could this be? my husband tried replacing the blower motor, but that didn't change the situation, so he put the old one back in, and is now puzzled ?
View 3 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: Setting ST Coilover On Highest Settings?
Installing STs on my mk6 tomorrow. Doing it in a steep driveway. want to be on the highest setting when I leave. regular v1 st coil over.
View 1 RepliesPassat (B6) :: Slow Wipers At Highest Setting?
So compared to my old Jetta, these wipers are "fairly" slow at the highest seeting, and in a down poor at 70 mph they do not clear the windshield fast enough.
View 5 RepliesNissan - Versa :: 2007 - AC Will Only Run On Highest Setting
I have a 2007 Nissan Versa and my AC will only run on the highest setting. The dealership suggested that the whole panel with AC dials needed to be replaced, they did say they were not sure this was the problem. In doing some research on the web I did see discussion regarding a Nissan Altima that had what sound like a similar problem and the fix was a part called the "blower resistor" which was much cheaper and could be fixed at home.
View 2 RepliesPrius C :: Windows Fogged Up / Fan Moved To Highest Setting When Defrost On
I thought I wouldn't have need of the defrost for several months yet, but today we had unusually cold rain and my windows soon fogged up. The fan (not a/c) was already running at a very low setting (one or two clicks only) when I depressed the defrost button. Roughly 15 seconds later, it was like a hurricane in the cabin! The fan moved to the highest setting all by itself. This did clear the windshield in seconds, but it was a bit disconcerting. This phenomenon repeated itself all three times that I engaged the defrost button. Is the defrost supposed to do that? I swear, the sudden change startled me so much, I hit my head on the ceiling of the cabin...
View 3 RepliesGTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Heater Only Works On Highest Settings?
I'm having an issue with my heater/fan. When I started her up this morning, I noticed my heater (and fan for that matter) only work on the highest setting (4). It still blows hot, and runs at normal temp, but none of the vents are functional unless its blasting!
View 13 RepliesChevrolet - Tahoe :: 2003 - Reduced Engine Power Error
From time to time, my Tahoe gives me the "Reduced Engine Power" error, and I lose acceleration capabilities and have to pull over. After a min or 2, I can go again, but the check engine light stays on. With no rhyme or reason, the light will be on or off on the next start up. The problem may or may not happen during a short ride or may happen quite often. I have replaced the Accelerator Pedal sensor, so that is not the problem, I'm assuming.
I've been told that it is the Throttle Body that needs to be replaced, but no mechanic can confirm. They just want to replace it and the pedal. I would really like to keep this truck for a couple more years. Other than this problem, the Tahoe has been pretty good to me. Here are the codes that have been read: P1125, 1516, 2120, 2125 ....
Chevrolet - Tahoe :: 2003 - Die Almost Every Stop / Can't Drive When Tank Reaches 1/4
So far, I have a small fortune into fixing this / related problems. I'll state what we've done and what is currently happening. I've taken it to my normal mechanic several times, I'm looking for additional opinions because they basically have no idea. This is on our 2003 Chevy Tahoe, my wife's daily driver, and what my kids are normally riding in. It only has about 60K actual miles on it and is a flex fuel model, if that matters.
Originally, the truck would have trouble starting. Cranking, but no ignition. Waiting a a few seconds, try to crank again and it would start up. This went on for about a week and then it stopped cranking cranking at all. Had it towed to our mechanic. PCM B fuse was blown. Replaced PCM B Fuse (20A) and it blew again after starting. It died while trying to idle. They did some voltage drop tests, seemed good. I'm not sure they did any current tests at the fuel pump which is on that fuse. Ended up there for 4 days (yes, lots of labor) and leaving with no real clue, but a 25A fuse would work.
A week later,we were still having problems (but my memory is a bit shady). The mechanic did some pressure tests and bleed tests and said that our fuel pump was outside the specified pressure and needed to be replaced. Dropped tank, replaced pump and sending unit with a new AC Delco, replaced fuel filter. Took it home, it seemed great.
Then my wife called me and said her truck was dying at every stop sign. When she got home, I verified, the tank read 1/4 full, truck would die at almost every stop. Truck would die slowing from 45 to 20 mph to make a left turn. This was dangerous, took it back to mechanic. Mechanic couldn't find an issue, but figured it was the sending unit. Replaced the part under warranty, didn't charge me any labor. They thought that we were really empty at 1/4 tank and had a bad sending unit, but that doesn't seem to be the case now.
Here are the basics of where we are: Truck runs fine when above 1/4 tank of gas.The truck suddenly dies when stopping or slowing down when the gas gauge reaches 1/4 tank. Starts right back up with no struggle, otherwise runs fine when the tank is low..Tank never empties. We can get a maximum of 16-17 gallons in it. The tank is 26 gal, and we previously have filled it with as much as 24+ gallons in one filling. The gauge needle barely touches F when full, and basically, the car is undrivable when it reaches 1/4.
Chevrolet - Tahoe :: 2003 - Reduced Engine Power Message / Speed Losing
I have a 2003 Tahoe that I love but is driving me crazy with a "Reduced Engine Power" message. I am driving along and suddenly it dings at me, the message center says "reduced engine power" and I am losing speed. It goes into a "limp mode" in which I cannot accelerate, it cannot pull itself up a hill, and the engine misses badly. I can pull over, shut it off for a couple of minutes and then start it up and run again just fine until it decides to do it again.
There seems to be no rhyme or reason, one day it did it 4 times w/n the first 20 miles, then ran 100 miles w/o doing it at all. I recently took it on a trip that normally takes me 1 1/2 hours, it took 2 1/4 hrs that day because I had to pull over so many times. I was having to stop every 3-4 miles by the time I got there. My usual mechanic has completely given up, told me to trade it. I have had it to another mechanic for over a month now, 3 times he has thought it was fixed, but it wasn't. One time, I didn't even make it the 5 miles to my house before it acted up again.
One other note on this: this past trip I made, I left early in the morning and my lights were flickering high/low. . . this went on for several miles. Finally my lights quit flickering, then I lost engine power, pulled over, shut it off. When I started it back up, the lights started flickering again. The cycle seemed to continue, once the lights would settle, the engine would lose power. I took it to a parts store and had the battery and alternator checked. They said both were fine. (Had never noticed the light thing before, but I can't think of a recent trip after dark.) How I can pass along to my mechanic?