Golf/GTI VI :: AC Automatically Coming On When Switching From Vents To Defrost?
Car do this? Seems odd to me. Iss there a way to disable via VCDS?
View 22 RepliesWindstar :: V6 / 3.8L - No Air Comes Out Of Vents But Can Hear Blower Fan Noise
My 1996 Windstar, V6, 3.8L, stops blowing air from vents intermittently. When I turn AC or heat on, the vents blow air fine according to the fan speed setting. But after 10/15 minutes, the air flow decreases significantly or stops altogether, no air comes out of the vents, yet I can hear the blower fan noise as if it is working and feel heat/cool at the vents (as per the selected setting).
I have tried changing the selector switch from AC to MaxAC, dashboard vents, bottom vents defrost, or fan speeds, but nothing works; It stays the same whether the vehicle is moving or is parked. The air starts flowing normally after half hour or so, or the next day.
I replaced the HVAC Vacuum Selector Valve (behind the controls) last week with a new one made by MotorCraft and it did not make any difference.
First thing that comes to mind is vacuum leak. Given the intermittent nature of the problem, I was wondering if this really is due to a vacuum leak? Next I thought of the blend door actuator, which is a common problem with Windstars. Since it does not default to hot or cold air, could it still be a blend door actuator problem?
Ford - Windstar :: 2000 Stopped Putting Out Heat To Any Front Vents
Ford - no front heat - 2000 Windstar - actuator
My Dad's 2000 Ford Windstar van stopped putting out heat to any front vents. I was able to hear a rhythmic thumping sound when the heat control slider was placed in the hot position. I looked for info on line, and found many posts that said the actuator was probably the issue. I also went back and asked my Dad if before the thumping sound he had heard anything else, and he confirmed he had heard some gear grinding noises, which others have reported as the actuator is starting to grind and slip its internal gears. If the actuator is not working correctly, it won't hold the heater duct door in the open position, which means you can't get any hot air.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: AC On / Vents Start Pushing Hot Air When Under A Load
I have an 03 F250 7.3litre. I have noticed the last few times driving while hauling that my vents start pushing hot air when under a load (example: driving up a long, steep pull) even if I have the AC on. It's starting make me a lot hot under the collar (pun intended) .....
View 14 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: Check Engine Lit Up When Switching From 4th To 5th
I've got error P0440 on my 2001 Echo about a week ago and cleared it, then I got it again today. It happened while driving, I was switching from 4th to 5th and the check engine lit up.
View 3 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Red Triangle Icon - Car Not Switching To Gas Engine
Today, I was driving on the street when I got the dreaded red triangle icon and the word "problem" appeared across the top of the MFD screen. I then noticed the bars on the battery screen kept lowering down to where they became purple when stopped with the transmission in D. The engine would usually start up at this point, but it didn't. I put it in B and gave it a bit of gas to force it to start up. Once I started driving again, the bars went back up, but it has happened two more times (every time the battery depletes to purple).
View 7 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: While Switching Gears And Accelerating, The Engine Revs All Over The Map
I haven't come on this site since I sold my Corrado a while back, but I am having issues with the wife's City Golf. It is a manual transmission and when switching gears and accelerating, the engine revs all over the map on the tach and is only partially engaged in gear, and then after bouncing around it settles down drives normal. But if you stomp on the gas again, the engine accelerates all over place again and it doesn't translate to power on the road. Is this a transmission problem or a fuel problem?
View 6 RepliesLexus LS 2007+ :: Switching Engine Off But Leaving Accessories On
It seems the LS460 cannot go DIRECTLY from "the engine is running with the infotainment system on" to "the engine is turned off, but the infotainment system remains on".
It seems as soon as you turn off the engine, the infotainment system cuts off immediately, dropping any bluetooth calls, music, or anything else.
You must press the Start button once more to get the accessories to come back (after a delay... since the wheel and seats have to retract once again... seems wasteful to me).
The only workaround I found, is to put the transmission into Neutral, then cut the engine... then put the transmission into Park.
This method will leave the accessories ON after the engine is cut, BUT it will not apply the automatic parking brake (if you use the feature).
It seems like a sludgy workaround... since I ALWAYS leave the parking brake in automatic mode, so I'd like it to engage every time the car is parked... which doesn't seem possible if I use this workaround.
Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Popping Sound Noticed Within Seconds Of Switching Off Engine And Loud Enough
I have a 2013 Santa Fe, 2.2 Diesel AWD and have recently experienced this popping sound. The sound is normally noticed within seconds of switch off the engine and is loud enough to make people jump with surprise. When I originally complained I was told this was normal ... nonsense I said as having owned vehicles from various manufacturers(Nissan, SAAB, Renault, VW, Chrysler, Mazda, Lexus) over the last 25year I've never experienced anything like this. Car is back in for a 90K klm service and repeated my complaint - lets see what happens. To me this is coming from the catalytic converter and when I look at the box underneath the car it has numerous bump/dents on it yet has never been offroad.
View 2 RepliesWindstar :: Oil Leakage Between Engine And Transmission
I noticed leakage of transmission oil leaking between the engine and the transmission of my windstar 2000 280 K miles. No driving issue, no flashing OD light. I am keeping the level.
View 5 RepliesFord - Windstar :: Engine Turned Off At 40 Mi/h
While driving down the highway, my Ford Windstar van just quit! The battery is new and the lights stayed on. About 10 minutes later the engine turned over again and I drove it to a Ford shop. They put the computer on it, but nothing showed up. What could cause a vehicle engine to just quit while going 40 MPH down the road?!
View 3 RepliesWindstar :: 1998 3.0 - Drop In Revs Causes Engine To Stall
My wife has a 1998 Windstar 3.0
Prior to going out yesterday, I noticed that the van seemed kind of 'jumpy' when idling - the timing was a bit sticky and inconsistent and kept seeming to try and right itself. I stuck the accelerator down and it ran perfect when it was getting gas but started 'stagering' again when I took it off.
So my wife went out to walmart - a 30 min drive (we are in the country) - and all was good till she was turning the corner into the parking lot and the engine stalled. It was your standard stall - power steering went out but all other electrics kept going etc etc.
She sat there for a minute - put it in park - then fired it right back up again. After running into walmart, she just drove home as fast as possible to reduce the length of time it had to happen again.....
So while there are, Im sure, a plethora of possible issues - I was wondering about the IAC value? How could that be responsible for the parking lot though - doesn't it only act when the car is stationary?
The sort of thing was happening about 3 months ago, and I ran seafoam through the fuel - which seemed to work for a while.
Windstar :: 2002 - Intermittent Thumping Noise In Engine
My 02 Windstar has developed an intermittent thumping noise in the engine. A bit of history: She has been sitting for a few months because she was throwing a P303 code that I could not track down. Here in IL, you cannot renew your plates until you pass an emissions check, and you cannot pass the check if a code is stored.
Well, I got a warning ticket for expired plates, and I had my daughter's car as alternate transportation while she is in the Peace Corps, so I parked Mr. Breeze, intending to get to her on the weekend. Except for throwing the code and gas mileage being a bit down, she was running fine when I parked her.
Well, life happened, and I never seemed to be able to put the time aside, but now winter is coming and I don't want to subject her ride to the snow, so I made time and replaced the coil, plugs, and wires. But when I started her up, there is an intermittent thumping noise in the engine compartment.
I have double checked the wires, and I think I have them right. As I understand it, the right bank plug wires go on the coil towers 1,2,3. and the left bank wires go on the towers 6,5,4. Is that right?
I made a short video so you could hear it, but it is too big to upload, so here's a YouTube : [URL] .....
Windstar :: Rough Idle - Engine Light Comes On - Misfire?
My windstar 3.8 engine has idle problems and engine light comes on at times. Code po305 (misfire #5). When I add sea-form to tank and drive awhile, the engine light goes out and the engine idle's normal. Is this an eva problem and what should I look for?
View 11 RepliesWindstar :: Rough Idle Only When In Gear Leading To Engine Stalling?
This is a little odd. Over the last two years or so the van had developed a rough idle issue. When left to idle in Park or Neutral the roughness would usually lead to the engine stalling after a few minutes.This happened both in and out of gear but only when the engine was still cold, idle returned to normal once normal op temp had been reached. Cleaning the IAC got rid of the problem... sort of. Now it idles fine in Park or Neutral but when in gear and engine/tranny still cold it is still very rough.
When waiting at a traffic light with my foot on the brakes the van shudders as it tries to lurch forward, the shaking is very noticeable even to those outside the van. This has become so bad I shift it into Neutral every time I need to stop at a traffic light, and it instantly settles into steady smooth idle at 800 rpm. However once the engine is warm everything returns to normal. Another thing I noticed is that when in gear and cold the roughness only occurs with brakes applied. Feels like whenever the roughness in the engine occurs the transmission attempts to override the brakes, which causes the lurching.
While the problem only lasts 5 to 10 minutes until op temp is reached it is nevertheless very annoying and driving me nuts. My main concern is that it may eventually cause damage to the transmission to be tugged at and jerked around in such a way. I am running out of reasonable explanations as tho what may be causing this and have begun elaborating more esoteric theories. My latest one is that since this only happens when the brakes are applied then the tiny voltage required to activate the brake lights is somehow causing some other electric part to fail, and that the rough idle is somewhat related to this. Shows you just how desperate I'm getting.
Ford - Windstar :: 2000 - Sounds Like A Diesel Engine And Overheating?
2000 Windstar 3.8L sounds like a diesel engine (exactly like and old diesel) when it warms up. My girlfriend noticed the problem and checked oil and it was low, she added, and then when she started it the next day, sound was gone. While she was driving it came back and would stall out. When she got it home I checked and the coolant overflow was empty, I added water and it poured out on the front (passenger) side of the engine. I immediately assumed head gasket.
Once it cooled I started pulling the stuff out. Down to the head on the Right hand bank (front of car). There is oil in the coolant, but no coolant in oil, (or very very little). Found the coolant is leaking from water pump itself it looks like. where the lower rad hose goes into pipe for water pump. or on the flange seal for water pump. It is so tough to actually see where. It also looks like the intake gaskets were bad because of the dirty oily wet condition under the intake manifold.
The car only makes the noise when warm, when it is cold it runs just fine. Would just the water pump being bad and leaking coolant cause this problem, is it a bad head gasket, something else? If it is the head gasket, I cannot get the head bolts to break free. I didn't have a 15mm 1/2 drive, so used a 3/8 drive and the 1/2-3/8 adapter spun right off.
Ford - Windstar :: 2001 - Chugging And Service Engine Light Blinking?
Twice now (and maybe a third time once I start my van again) we've had problems with the van chugging and then the service engine light blinking. Both times it happened in the past, we took it to a mechanic who said it needed a tune-up - new spark plugs, wires, etc. I'm curious as to why this keeps happening. Mileage is around 105K. It first happened last summer, second time was in December. Now it's March. What could cause this problem to repeat?
View 2 RepliesFord - Windstar :: Shaking And Engine Light After Replacement Of Pressure Hose?
we just replaced a pressure hose that broke and now the engine light blinks 30 times and then goes off and then blinks again plus the engine seems to be shaking allot.
View 1 RepliesWindstar :: 2002 - Car Running With Blinking Check-engine Light / Code P0306
So I had a serious runability problem back in 2012 with code P0302 (misfire in cylinder 2) and the car was barely running. I changed the spark plugs, which didn't fix the issues. Then changed the coil, which fixed it. URL...But I was a little lazy back in September 2012, the old spark plug wires looked like they were still in great shape, so I left the old wires on. I think they were the original factory wires, they had the numbers of each cylinder printed on the side. Very nice wires!
Fast-forward to the present. Car starts running poorly with a blinking check-engine light. Not good! I check the code and it is P0306, misfire in cylinder 6. So my first thought was: OK, probably time to change the spark plug wires!I changed the spark plug wires. I purchased AutoLite Professional Series wires at Advance Auto Parts, part 97047. URL...Sure enough, the number 6 wire looked like it had a little corrosion inside the end that connects to the spark plug wire. It looked like I was on the right track! Changed the spark plug wires, and ran it. It still sounded like it might be missing on one cylinder. Just a quiet ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch at idle. I took it for a test drive. It ran OK at low RPM's, but had no power. When I tested some hard acceleration, sure enough the check engine light came back on. Tested the code and it was P0306 again. Conclusion: not fixed yet.
OK, maybe the spark plug wire was the problem, just the plug got fouled because the wire was bad. I purchased a replacement spark plug for that cylinder only. AutoLite Double Platinum as recommended elsewhere in this forum. Removed the old plug. I'm no expert, but the old plug looked fine to me. Installed the new plug. Tested it again. Still sounded like missing at idle ch-ch-ch-ch-ch. Test drive, OK with low RPM, no power. Tried hard acceleration, got the blinking CEL again. Conclusion: still not fixed - darn it!
Now remember, I just changed the coil back in September 2012. I had replaced it with a coil from AutoZone. The first coil had lasted ten years. So it couldn't be the coil again this soon, right? But... just to be sure, I went ahead and changed the coil again. I called AutoZone and happily it was still under warranty. The previous coil I had purchased came with a 24-month warranty, and I was on month 23 !!! Sweet!AutoZone also told me if I did a warranty replacement of the coil, the new one would come with a lifetime warranty instead.The part number of the coil at AutoZone was part C1312, Duralast Ignition Coil.
Before installing the new coil, I put a little Dielectric grease around the top inside of each connector on the new coil (7 total, six spark plug wires plus the electrical connector). I think this was recommended in my Haynes or Chilton manuals.I am a tall skinny guy with long skinny arms. So I was able to replace the coil without removing the cowl. Last time I had to remove the cowl (to do the intake manifold isolator bolt repair) the cowl had cracked, also some of the clips holding it down broke. So I didn't want to remove the cowl unless necessary. It turns out with my long skinny arms I can lay up over the motor and reach back around both sides of the intake manifold to reach the coil. It is a reach, but it was possible for me to do the job that way.
I removed the three bolts holding the old coil in place. Then I was able to slide the new coil back in there, around the driver's side of the intake manifold. I transferred over the spark plug wires one by one from old to new (as recommended by another poster) so I wouldn't get confused which was which. It worked well to transfer the rear three first. That hold the new coil near the correct location, and gave me more slack to move the old coil further out of the way.Next step was to remove the wire connector from the rear of the coil pack. It didn't want to release. I looked at the old part (from 2012!!!) and there was a little plastic nub back there to lock the connector in place. It looked like there was room to work in a small screwdriver back there to release the lock. So I wiggled a short flat-head screwdriver in back there (with a wide head) and it released. Then I was able to easily remove the connector.
Then I had more slack to move the old coil further out of the way, toward the drivers side and front of the vehicle. And then transferred the last three spark plug wires to the new coil.Then to secure the new coil in place, I carefully installed one bolt by hand, leaving it loose to allow for final adjustments of position. Installed the second and third bolts loosely. Tightened the three bolts finger tight using a short (3") extension and 7mm socket (1/4" drive). Then snugged them very gently using my small 1/4" rachet. The small 1/4" rachet was a perfect fit using the 3" inch extension and the small 7mm socket. Remember you just want the bolts snug, do not over-tighten them.
When I went back to AutoZone to process the warranty return, they had to do some fancy work with their computer to get me the lifetime warranty on the new coil. By default it would just assume the rest of the original coil warranty from 2012 - which was just about to expire. So they made it right for me - but only because I specifically asked about it. By default, the guy had already rung it up their "normal" way, which would not have extended the warranty for me.Another thing that was strange was back in September 2012 when I replaced the original coil, it had worked well for ten years or so! Also, the bottom of it was clearly cracked, so it was easy to see that it had deteriorated and needed to be replaced.