Volvo :: 1988 240dl - Temp Gauge Reading High But Engine Is Not Actually Hot
I was recently given my first Volvo. Its an 88 240dl. While driving my temp gauge climbs up to the red and sometimes hovers inside of it. It normally climbs up at stop signs and comes down on straight always then climbs right back up close to red. When the gauge was in the red i stopped the car and popped the hood open to see that the engine was not actually overly hot.
first i replaced coolant. nothing
then i replaced the thermostat. nothing
flushed radiator. nothing
Today i finally had enough and decided to switch out the water pump with a new one hoping that it would solve the problem seeing as it still had the factory one on. It did nothing. the gauge continues to climb up. I did replace one of the two senders in hope that it would fix the gauge reading but nothing.
Volvo :: 1988 240DL Wagon - Engine Temp Gauge Not Working
My 1988 240DL wagon....the engine temp gauge is not working? is see the wire that goes to the sensor in the engine block, it is there and connected to the sensor. is there a way to test the wire? I have purchased a new sensor, but I have not replaced it yet.
View 1 RepliesVolvo :: 1986 240DL Steering Too Light / Rattling Coming From Rear Side
I just purchased a 1986 Volvo 240DL, it runs great, but slow and the Ac is like ice. Only real issues are a rattling coming from the rear(exhaust mount I think) and
most importantly the steering is super light. No effort required at all.
Volvo :: 1988 / 240 Won't Start In The Rain Only
3 months ago I bought a beautiful dark-blue 1988 Volvo 240, manual transmission. This is my first Volvo and I'm already hooked! It's the car that's going to teach me to work on cars because for the most part it's beautifully simple. I bought a repair manual to be prepared, and have now encountered my first real issue.
For several months, even in the rain, it would start and run beautifully. Now when it sits in the rain overnight it will not start the following morning, or until the weather subsides. Once it has a few hours to "dry out" after the rain and humidity stops it starts beautifully. In the wet weather it wants to start, the starter goes and goes and at points it sounds like it almost catches, though ultimately won't. I imagine moisture is getting in somewhere and preventing spark at some point in the ignition system, but, like I mentioned, I'm new to this. Where to begin; what I should replace to begin troubleshooting this?
In a separate issue I can't get fuses for the rear tail/brake lights to keep from blowing when I replace them.
Volvo - 240 :: 1988 - Replaced Battery Now Won't Start?
I have a 1988 Volvo 240 DL that I just replaced the battery. It started right up after it was installed. We drove it home and parked it for one week without trying to start it again because we still have parts to buy to pass safety. I live in UT. My son went out to start it today and it would not make any sound or turn over. What should I check next? Starter Solenoid? Alternator?
View 2 RepliesVolvo :: 1988 240 Crank For 3 To 5 Seconds Before Starting When Turn Key Over
About 6 weeks ago I became the proud owner of an '88 240 wagon with ~ 235,000 miles.
When turning the key over to start Lucy (that's her name) most times she will crank for 3 to 5 seconds before indeed starting. I can avoid those 3 to 5 excruciatingly long seconds if I let her crank for a time or two then let her rest for a second - after that she will start up immediately when I turn the key again. This situation happens probably 14 times out of 15. The 15th she will start like a dream the first time. I have had the battery tested (although I could not find a date on the battery and the previous owner did not know when it was purchased), and I have completed a full tune up (plugs, wires, rotor and cap) among other maintenance issues as well.
Attached File(s)
Lucy.JPG ( 3.4MB )
Lucy_Under_the_Hood.JPG ( 3.87MB )
Volvo - 240 :: 1988 - Losing Power / Rattling In The Engine
I have a 1988 Volvo 240 DL station wagon that has been in my family since just before I was born. It has somewhere around 300K miles on it (the odometer broke 7 years ago at 250K). It drives around town more or less fine, usually. But sometimes it loses power on me. Usually this happens when I take it on highways, up big hills, in situations where I need to accelerate quickly, etc. It just starts to slow down, and I have to downshift and ease slowly through whatever stretch of road I'm on until I can get back up to speed (usually on a downhill). It's not totally consistent--sometimes it has this problem, other times it doesn't.
The car will go through stretches where it runs fine, then I'll have this problem on a highway, and then it's a little more likely to happen for a period after that (even on surface streets). This has been happening in some form for a few years. When I first had the problem, it happened continually until I heard a terrible rattling in the engine. When I took it in, they found that a spring in the piston/cylinder had broken off and shot up, breaking the cap off one of the cylinders (sorry for the lack of a more technical explanation).
When they fixed that, the problem seemed to go away for a while, but eventually came back (though there has been no rattling since). The most recent time, it had been running around town just fine. Then I took it out on the highway and really lost power--had to slow it down to 35-40mph going up a hill on a 55mph highway. For the rest of the drive it struggled up hills, even as low as 2nd gear. But on my drive home (about 1.5 hours later), the car ran smoothly (though I continued to baby it, and there were fewer upward hills). Since then, even around town it sometimes feels like it might lose power again, but it never becomes a huge issue because I haven't demanded a whole lot of the car.
After that long-winded explanation, I'm wondering: could this be something as simple as spark plugs? Or is this definitely a bigger issue with the engine? If it's a cheap fix, I'm happy to go for it, but if it will require putting several hundred (or more) into the engine, I'm inclined just to let it limp along until it's finally time to take the car out back and shoot it. Figuratively, of course.
Volvo - 240 :: 1988 - Headlights Flickered And Then Cut Out For A Few Seconds When Driving
I was driving home just a few minutes ago when my headlights flickered and then cut out for a few seconds. They came back on, but I hadn't driven another 1/2 mile when they flickered again and went off for a further few seconds. This was repeated once more about a mile later, though when I pulled over (first time I was able to do so), they stayed off til after I restarted the car and banged on the dashboard.
Further symptoms: running lights, brake lights, and tail lights seem unaffected. Turning the switch for the headlights off and back on does not affect the issue.
Volvo - 240 :: 1988 - Coughing And Stalling And Power Loss
Recently my old workhorse started coughing and stalling. This isn't consistent at all. I'll be driving and the car will lose power and come back to life. It also stalls at stop signs. Brought to my mechanic and left it for a week with him and he can't figure it out. 1988 Volvo 240 over 200,000....
View 3 RepliesVolvo :: 1988 With Fuel Injection - Looses Power As RPMs Go Up
The car idles fine, but after a couple seconds in each gear (5spd. manual) it looses power and starts to stumble, but if i keep it at a low rpm, it will run. So, if it is the catalytic converter. how can i un-clog it? Dearborn protocol adapter.
View 1 RepliesVolvo :: 1988 740GL Turbo Stalled When Came To Set Of Lights Then Not Starting
I have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and I was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldn't start...
I left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away and only went a few kms home.... what would this be I haven't driven it since!!
Volvo :: 1988 Won't Start After Changing Battery Charge Bulb
I have an 88 244 dl. I recently changed the battery charge bulb in the instrument cluster and no I have a no start. The starter engages and the motor turns over but makes no attempt to start. I checked all the fuses including the 25 amp fuse under the hood.
View 2 RepliesVolvo :: 1988 - Major Engine Hesitation While Driving Down The Road
I have an 88 volvo 244Dl with major hesitation while driving down the road. I recently had a no start issue and after a week at the shop it was fixed. During that repair it received: New Dist, cap, rotor, timing belt, coolant sensor, plugs, wires. With the hesitation I checked vacuum lines, cleaned T/B and MAA.
One thing I noticed, which seems weird... When the engine is hesitating, missing.. the radio becomes somewhat staticy. The reception of the radio mimics the hesitation of the engine.
Volvo :: 1988 245 - Hard To Start After Sitting Intermittently - Crank For 3 Seconds
My 245 is running great. Love this car to death. I have been experiencing something weird. The car will start hard after sitting intermittently. It'll crank for 3 seconds and if I press the gas pedal it will fire right up. If I don't touch the pedal, itll will continue to crank...eventually sputtering and then firing. It will usually fore up right away if I don't let it sit for hours. I haven't exactly narrowed it down to a fuel prime issue, but that's kind of what it seems like to me. Are there any check valves or anything like that I could look into?
View 1 RepliesVolvo :: 1988 / Manual Transmission Stuck In 4th - Shifter Freely Moves
last night I was on my way to work and had the car in forth traveling about forty-five. A light ahead of me turned red and I held the clutch in until I had stopped. I shifted into what I thought was first. I discovered that regardless of the shifter position, the transmission left it in forth gear. Barely got it moving from a stop and brought it back home.
Looking under the car, I don't know exactly what the linkage mechanism looks like. I'm not sure how to tell if it has been disconnected or misaligned. I don't know if the problem is in the transmission itself either. The shifter moves to other positions freely, but in actuality it stays locked in forth gear.
Volvo - 240 :: 1988 Wagon Rattling And Smoking When Accelerating Hard Up A Hill
i have an 88 volvo 240 wagon with 89K miles on it... it's been passed down through the family, is in great shape and is a joy to own. i have always have it serviced at the volvo dealership and recently had a bunch of work done to it including complete lube, oil and filter change, replaced the radiator overflow cap, replaced a leaking valve cover gasket, replaced the oil pan gasket, replaced the rear diff gasket and added oil, and replaced the sway bar links (it was an expensive visit).
to my dismay, on the way home, accelerating hard up a hill, something under the car started to rattle and black smoke started coming out of the back of the car. i took it back to the dealership and they replaced a leaking seal that they said was the problem, on the way home, same thing with the rattle and smoke happened on the same hill... maybe just stop driving on that hill, right? so i took it back and they changed the oil again (the oil levels were a bit high) and said they couldn't find anything wrong... drove the car home and seemed not to have the problem (though i did take it easy on the hill).
so today, i take the car out for a drive (usually just drive it on the weekend), and accelerating hard up the same hill i get the same rattling and black smoke that continues until i let off the acceleration. by the time i get home (a couple blocks later), it's like nothing ever happened.
Is it safe to drive as long as i don't accelerate hard? Never had this issue before all the work was done, kind of seems like i should take the car back to the dealership, but this would be the 4th time for the same issue...
Golf IV R32 :: Misfiring On Cylinder 2 And 5
Happened a few times on me lately. While pulling towards the top of 5th, I'll start to see the check engine light briefly blink as if the car wasn't sure, then at the top of 5th, she'll start misfiring on cyl 2 and 5. It's only during the long haul pulls that this occurs. My plugs and coils were all changed about 1k miles ago.
View 17 RepliesLS / MKZ :: 2001 V8 Shuddering And Misfiring On Cylinder 2
Going up a hill this LS started shuddering and misfiring and set the po302 code. A small push on the accelerator sometimes seems to temporarily remedy the issue. This started about a week ago. fuel mileage : 26 mpg highway
Here's the readings I got at idle:
Fuel pressure is KOEO - 0 (That's what it read.); KOER - 30.
MAF - about 70
LT FUEL TRIM 1 - 5.5
ST FUEL TRIM 1 - STAYS NEGATIVE
LT FUEL TRIM 2 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 2 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 11 - STAYS NEGATIVE
ST FUEL TRIM 21 - STAYS NEGATIVE
O2 1 - NORMAL FLUCTUATES PROPERLY
O2 S12 - STAYS ABOVE .500
O2 S21 - NORMAL FLUCTUATES PROPERLY
O2 S22 - STAYS ABOVE .500
Not familiar with this vehicle...
Touareg :: Put In All New Plugs / Cylinder 5 Is Misfiring
I have a 2008 Touareg 2, V8, 4.2L.
I bought it used (~95k miles) and almost immediately had an issue. #5 is misfiring. Since then, it has been in the shop 10-12 times with no resolution. Here is what I have done so far:
Put in all new plugs/coils sent the ECU to SIA electronics in Chicago for testing - no errors replaced the injector with a new injector on #5swapped #1 for #5 (plugs/coils)checked the harness (dealership said they did this, but not sure if they did or are just tired of me)
Through all this, #5 is still misfiring. The dealership is out of options, suggesting that the ECU is faulty and needs to be replaced ($1600) or they need to swap the #5 injector with #1 to see if that is the issue (~$1000+). Neither of these options sound reasonable because a) the ECU was already tested and b) the injector is brand new, yet the exact problem (#5 misfire) has persisted before and after the injector replacement.