Lincoln - Towncar :: Slightly Rough Idle When Started Up And Let It Sit In Driveway

I have a 1998 Lincoln Town Car with about 350,000 miles on it. This morning I sensed a slightly rough idle when I started it up and let it sit in the driveway. While idling I plugged in a scan tool and after a few minutes it showed a P0306, a misfire in cylinder 6. I know there could be a few causes of this but my past experience has been a bad ignition coil (this car has the coils on each plug).

Over the years I've had 3 coils go bad, all giving the same rough idle symptom and P030x, where x was the cylinder number. Replacing the coils solved the problem each time.

So this morning I assumed it would probably be the same. On my way to the auto parts store (4 miles), I monitored the computer, it kept throwing a P0306 (cylinder 6) and I kept clearing the code. About 2 blocks from the store, the car seemed to be running a bit rougher. When I pulled into the lot, I got a P0307 code (and no P0306). Hmm. Well, I bought a new coil and replaced coil 6. I then sat in the lot and idled it and after a few minutes it threw the P0307 again. I cleared it a few times and it came back.

I assumed there was about 0 chance that a second coil could go out within minutes of another (assumption from a car tinkerer, not a professional), so rather than buying another coil, I drove it home to do some further testing. On the way home, it kept throwing the P0307 and nothing about P0306.

So at home, I swapped coil 7 and 5, idled it for a few minutes, and, sure enough, it threw a P0305 (the problem had moved to cylinder 5, following the coil). This indicates to me that I had 2 bad coils?!?

So my question is whether it's possible, or even common, to lose two coils at virtually the same time. I should also point out that before today I did not notice rough idling and there were no computer codes set. I also thought maybe it's possibly a problem developing with an ignition module (but I'm not sure if my car even has one).

Anyway, it was late and I have not replaced the second coil. I did do a couple other tests. I measured the resistance on the primary of the new coil, as well as 5, 6, and 7 coils. They were all close to 0 ohms. The resistance of the secondary ranged between 5k and 8k depending on the coil. Out of curiosity, I also did a final swap of the original coil 6 with the "faulty" coil 7 now in 5 (follow me?) and it still throws a P0305, indicating both the old 6 and old 7 coils are, indeed bad. Another note is that both "bad" coils are about the same age (maybe 150k-200k miles on each), so they're not newer ones.

Does this all make sense? Should I go ahead and replace the other coil and see what happens, or should I check something else?

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Rough Idle / Bad Gas Mileage / Stalls Out / RPMs Jumps Around

I bought an 04 f150 super crew cab with the 5.4L triton in it 3 years ago with 50k on it from my great uncle who was the original owner. It's had a tick to it since he had it but the dealership told him they couldn't find anything wrong with it and to get use to the noise. It's ran pretty good up until last couple months where it's been running really rough and not doing the best. It's still hasn't been all the time but more intermittent and comes and goes, but when it's running bad the rpm drops down to about 200 and my motor sounds blown.

When that's happening I could put in neutral and rev it up and it would go back to normal for a bit, but now it's all the time and stalls out even at 70 on the hwy. The codes it throws are, p1000- monitor checks not complete-more driving required, p0345- camshaft pos sens circ error(bank 2), p0022- A camshaft pos timing-over retarded bank 2. Things I have tried-changed all 8 plugs, added K&N air intake, replaced both cam sensors, replaced fuel pump driver module (due to corrosion). Tonight I'm going to clean the throttle body, mas air flow sensor, change fuel filter.

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This is my brother's 02 SE. 140k miles. 4cyl. He claims that the car is beginning to idle rough when he is stopped at a stop light and the AC is on. If i replace the spark plugs should that do it? I'm pretty sure it doesn't have spark plug wires cus that's what my dealer parts dept said. Motor mounts were replaced around 70k if that matters. The vibration is directly related to the AC being on.

I am also going to replace the serp. belt because there's a belt squeak when the motor is cold.

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My 2006 Avalon Limited idles rough at times (at stop lights). Should I get a fuel system cleaning done? It has 52k miles and has probably not been done in the past. Would a fuel system cleaning work with rough idle? Can I do this myself or do I need to take it to the dealer?

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Car is an automatic 1.8T and has a rough idle when the car is in DRIVE and I am in a full stop. Car also idles rough when in park. Not sure if it is an idle valve stabilizer, or a coilpack? Car does drive well once in motion and does not feel like it lacks power.

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I have a 2006 Chevy Cobalt 5 speed manual with 49k miles. For the last year the car idles rough at stop lights when the A/C or heater is turned on. The rough idling is not continuous but intermittent with the rpm falling just below 500 and returning to just under 1000. This is accompanied by a shuddering, as if the car is about to stall out. I should also mention that the car has a tendency to stall when rolling to a stop in 1st or 2nd gear. The check engine light comes on sporadically during fast acceleration, usually on a steep incline, when driving on the highway on ramp. A recent diagnostic indicated the need to replace the fuel filter and clean the fuel system, including the throttle body. Had these things done, but I'm still having the same issues with the car. I mentioned this to my mechanic and he said it may be a loose hose.

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My vehicle has started to idle very rough, stuttering and almost dies at stop lights. It hesitates when accelerating, and really shakes and rattles if the AC is turned on. The check engine light and EPC lights are on. And even letting the foot off the brake in drive causes it to jerk along. I am up around 65k miles and have not had too many issues other than a fuel pump getting replaced last year. (the dealer first started replacing and charging me for many other items) I am scared to go back without trying to trouble shoot it myself.

What it could be and if there is anything I can try to correct it myself?

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Ford - Explorer :: Stop If Don't Step On Gas After Starting - Rough Idle

1994 Ford Explorer; When I start it, if I don't step on the gas it will stop. If I give it some gas when I start it, the engine will race and then decelerates about 2000 rpms and keeps doing this, it does get better as the engine warms up. But the idle is really rough. It has new wires, plugs, vacume lines, oil change, air filter and battery. If I put the gas pedal to the rug, it will go from 4000rpm back down to 2000rpm and continue doing this as long as I keep the pedal to the metal. I had it put on an analyzer and it didn't read anything.

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My 2011 Elantra has a slightly rough idle at stop lights. It doesn't happen ever time, and some people probably wouldn't even notice it, but at every few/several stops it idles a bit rough. When I recently had it in to Hyundai service for the ECM update, I asked them to take a look at it. Of course, they couldn't replicate it at the time, so they couldn't do anything to address it directly. The service manager asked if it happens when the A/C is on or off. While I didn't know the answer at the time, it seems to happen with it both on or off. He did say that the ECM update may address/fix the issue, but unfortunately it didn't. While it's not a big problem, it's a minor annoyance I'd like to get fixed (as I need to enjoy my ride at all times.

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Rough Idle When Come To A Stop And Even Stalls Sometimes

I have a 2004 FX4 5.4 with about 113,000 miles on it. Lately, when towing the camper (around 7000 lbs), truck runs great. However, when I come to a stop, it idles horribly and even stalls sometimes. When I rev it up, runs fine again. It only does this after towing when engine is under load for extended periods of time.

The only code it has ever thrown was for bank 2 camshaft over retarded. My thought was that it could be VCT solenoid for bank 2...

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Dodge - Avenger :: 2008 - Rough And Slow Idle At A Stop On The Brakes With Car In Drive

2008 Dodge Avenger SXT Sedan GEMA 2.4L DOHC I4 / 4 speed automatic75,000 miles Moderately well taken care of (oil change every 3,000 miles, mostly follows recommended maintenance in owner's manual)

Symptoms:

*Car runs and drives fine while the car is in constant motion and decelerating.

*Rough and Slow Idle at a stop on the brakes with car in Drive. Engine speed will drop below ~400 RPM, then "kick" up to ~1,200 RPM, settle back to 'normal' idle ~800 RPM, repeat. I have suggested she put the car in Neutral at a stop to see if that changes anything, but I don't have feedback from her yet. One instance of seeing a puff of smoke from under the hood while the car was doing the above.

*When pulling away from a stop, the car will hesitate; that is the accelerator will be pressed but the throttle response will be delayed.

*When pulling away from a stop acceleration will be inconsistent; instead of rrrrrRRRRRRRRRR, it's more like rrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRR

*Couple instances where the car just shut off while she was parallel parking (low engine speed).

*One instance where the car did not start on first attempt. Started fine on second attempt.

*No Check Engine Light. The codes have been run.

Shop Visits (at an independent garage recommended by her roommate who's been going there for 5+ years, good reviews on yelp, and always busy):

*First visit: told her they put in a bottle of fuel system cleaner and to use a tank of high octane gas. That didn't really work.
*Second visit: cleaned the throttle body. That was 3 days ago, so far no conclusion either way.

Other repairs:

*The battery was checked (at O'Reilly) and replaced after the starting incident mentioned above. (5 year old car, seems about right).
*2 nights ago I told her to put in a bottle of HEET to get water out of the fuel system (California uses ethanol blend) and a bottle of Gumout Fuel System Cleaner and to fill up with premium gas (based on items below). Be sure to run that tank down to almost empty.

Things I could think of:

*Crankshaft/camshaft position sensor failing.
*Alternator failing (because this problem doesn't seem to exist at higher RPM's)

Research online: It seems that a number of people have similar problems with Chrysler products with this and the previous generation 2.4L engine but no clear conclusive repair. Some of the items mentioned:

*Idle Air Control (IAC)
*Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
*New sparks plugs and wires. (not replaced but should be)
*New timing belt. Timing belt is one tooth off.
*Water in the Fuel System (hence, HEET)
*Dirty/Clogged Fuel System Component (hence, fuel system cleaner)
*Failing Fuel Pump
*Dirty/Clogged Air Filter (replaced per maintenance manual)
*Low Oil Pressure/Failing Oil Pump
*Additionally, there are no recalls against her VIN.

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1987 - Rough Idle And Stumble When Starting Out From A Stop

1987 Ranger and the computer will not communicate. I'm trying to check for codes because of a rough idle and stumble when starting out from a stop. Check engine works but won't flash when using a jumper across the data link. Used a OTC scanner but it only times out and comes up "no data". Where to go from here?

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