Ford - Windstar :: 1999 - Gas Odor When Stop After Driving Approximately 30 Miles Or More
After driving my Windstar approximately 30 miles or more when I stop and get out I can smell gas. I see no leaks or any gas build up any where. Is there something that maybe is causing too much fuel to be going to the injectors??? which probably would also be tied in with some of the smog equipment.
View 1 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F550 Runs Low On Fuel Pressure After Approximately 20 Miles Or WOT Throttle
Just joined today, I have a 2003 550 7.3. New HPOP, 3 new injectors, new seals on others, new fuel pressure regulator, new fuel pump, sending unit mod to eliminate filters. 733 HPOP pressure, 65 fuel pressure at idle. Truck runs out of fuel pressure after its warmed up and driven about 20 miles. Haven't checked voltage at pump while driving. I had taken it to a seasoned tech of 20 years and he had replaced HPOP and 2 injectors and it does start better but problem is still there.
View 14 RepliesSuburban :: 2000 5.3 - Check Oil Pressure Light Was On And Oil Pressure Read 0
Today I started my 2000 Suburban on the coldest morning ever, -14 degrees actual temp. I went inside to let it warm up and about 15 min later I went out to go to work and the check oil pressure light was on and oil pressure read 0. Is this due to extreme cold and thick oil ? Or did something break on start up. I am going to wait until temps are up before I try it again as it was running awful. I am fearing that 15 min warm up may have hurt her.
View 14 RepliesSuburban :: 98 - AC Pressure 30 To 155 At 1800 RPM
I've put in a new Delco compressor, oriface tube, rear expansion valve and dryer. I pulled out the condensor, it did not seem to have any restriction. Same for all the lines, low muffler is cool, high muffler hot.
At idle I get 42/150, at 1800rpm 30-32/155, this at 80 degrees.
The truck cooled great (30/290) before sitting a couple months, then I had similar problems. I thought the compressor or clutch was weak, so I replaced it. The original cooling wasn't as good with the rear air on, so I changed the valve there as well.
I had a few black specs on the O-Tube.
There is so slight a difference in the high pressure at low and high RPM's, I wondering if there is a pressure controlling device outside of the high and low cut -off switches. There is the pressure valve in the back of the compressor, one that gets moved into the new one, but I understand it's another emergency relief.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Oil Pressure Gauge Jumps Around / Sometimes Shows No Pressure
'97 F150 4.6L 4wd automatic... My gauge jumps around, sometimes it works and other times it shows no pressure. Could that be the oil pump? Or is the gauge most likely bad? Whats the actual purpose of an oil sending unit?
View 6 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Oil Pressure Gauge Showing No Pressure
Last week I was driving on the highway and noticed the oil pressure gauge showed no pressure. Limped a half mile to the mother-in-laws and called for a tow. As my truck was pulled onto the flatbed I could see oil all over the bottom of the engine, tranny, rear end, etc. Turned out to be a bad oil pressure sender, which was leaking enough oil to blow the plug off the top of it.
I replaced the sensor, cleaned the engine and under-carriage, checked oil level (which showed no loss of oil) and drove around for a week without an oil pressure gauge while I waited for a new pigtail. Put the pigtail in yesterday and drove it today for the first time since. Gauge was working, got to the bank and it was reading zero pressure again. Limped home and watched the gauge go back up quickly and then back down. This happened twice and was showing pressure when I shut it off. Checked under hood, no oil leaks and plug is still secure.
Tire - Pressure :: Warning Light Showing 17 Psi And Pressure Gauge 40 Psi?
The tire pressure warning light has been on in my car for about a week. The dashboard computer says that the tire pressure in the front right tire is 17 psi, but when I use the pressure gauge, the reading is almost 40 psi. Is this something I should be concerned about? What could be causing this problem?
View 16 RepliesSuburban :: 99 - Loss Of Power And Oil Pressure
I bought a 99 Suburban 4x4 with 205,000 miles for hunting, I recently took it to my property in the Texas Hill Country. The road to my property consists of dirt with large rocks, you are required to lock in 4 low and to the climb, on a very steep hill I reached about 3/4 of the way up when the suburban had no power, it idled but my foot was all the way down on the pedal and the tires would not turn or spin out, I backed down and tried going a little faster, same place it stopped moving and this time the oil pressure dropped and the check your gauges light came on, once again I backed it down. On a level surface it drives great but on a steep incline it develops this problem.
View 2 RepliesSuburban :: 1995 - Temp Gauge Going High And Dropping
Bad news kids... it's terminal. Took my 95 3/4 ton 4X4 6.5 diesel suburban in complaining of temp gauge going high and dropping, alternator... ball joint fears.... And I just got a call, it's got a cracked head. So this is how it ends. Husband aint never gonna fix it. I knew this day was coming. He said the temp gauge going high then dropping is some sort of coolant preasure build up and release. I seen it every morning for the last year. He said he took her up to 120 kms and it did exactly what I said. And he knows exactly what my problem is. It's true, Toni knows this truck. So any guesses how long I got? What will happen when it goes? When would you park it for good? My last over heat was a couple years ago when a belt blew off, big heat is the only thing that would have cracked a head right? So the crack might be that old. And it's sad news. Driving it since birth, 95.
View 14 RepliesSuburban :: 2004 Chevy - Temp Gauge Showing Truck At About 250 Degrees
So yesterday my truck decided to start giving me fits right after it finally got extra cold and snowy here! I noticed early on this fall that my water pump was leaking, so I replaced it. I also found that my truck only blew hot air while in motion, and cold air while it was stopped or at idle. At this point I replaced the thermostat and housing. I originally had the stock setup with the combined thermostat and housing. The new one is and updated GM version with the separate thermostat and housing assembly. Everything seemed to be ok until yesterday morning.
This is where my problem is now. Yesterday on my way to work, the message center said my coolant was too hot. The temp gauge showed the truck at about 250 degrees. My speed was only about 45mph and it was 6 degrees outside. I ended up parking the truck and looking at it after work. I found it was still doing the exact same thing. When I investigated further, I found that the upper radiator hose was hot, while the lower one coming out of the thermostat housing was cold.
At this point I figured that I had a bad thermostat, and bought a replacement. I tested the old one on my stove top in a pan of water and found that it did actually open at about 175 degrees, so I'm not so sure it was bad now. With the new thermostat installed, the engine is no longer overheating and the temp stays around 235 while driving. However, I am back to the heater blowing cold air at idle and while stopped, and warm air while driving. In addition, the rear heater now only blows cold air, it never warms up.
C/K :: 1997 K2500 Suburban 4x4 Auto 454 - Fuel Gauge Reading Full All The Time?
As title really, it's a 1997 K2500 Suburban 4x4 auto 454. I haven't used the sub for a while but got in it the other day and it fired up all fine and I then looked to see what fuel I had left only to see the needle right over to full. Well I know it is nearly empty and I've never had the guts to fill the thing or should that be had the funds to fill it to the top, so know it is wrong. I got under the truck and unclipped the rear most wiring connector just infront of the fuel tank but the gauge still reads full. I suspect either the gauge is faulty (so is there anyway of checking) or the sender in the tank or wires in the tank have shorted (again anyway of testing without removing the tank).
View 3 RepliesSuburban :: Oil Pressure Completely Bottoms Out / White Smoke Out Of Tail Pipe
99 Suburban LS 4x4 with the 5.7 with 109k miles. My Suburban broke down on my wife a few weeks ago, figured out that one of the catalytic converters had a catastrophic failure and came apart internally. I cut the cat off so that I could drive it the 60 miles home to save on the tow charge.
Had the cat replaced today and now I'm blowing white smoke out the tailpipe like I'm 007 throwing a smoke screen. The smoke alternates from smelling really rich to smelling like oil (pre-burn).
The oil pressure gauge is reading at or below 20 PSI and randomly (usually while breaking or stopped) completely bottoms out. I know cluster gauges aren't known for their accuracy but I also know this isn't 'normal' behavior. I also hear noise from the engine (possibly valves sticking but could also be more of a knocking sound than a clicking one). The oil is full (actually a little too full) and it went from looking like brand new oil to jet black in less than 30 days. I talked with the rep at one of the 'big name' auto parts stores and they recommended trying a 20W50 weight oil for a couple of months. Stated they have a similar vehicle with the same motor and made the switch a few years ago and hasn't had a problem since. I plan to do an oil change this weekend, I also bought an oil pressure sending unit that I'll change out at the same time. Am I on the right track?
Also, and most likely unrelated, my coolant temp gauge is totally inoperative and is just bottomed out no matter how warm the engine is. The coolant hoses (supply and return) are warm/hot to the touch at running temp so I'm sure coolant is circulating. What's the easiest way to check whether that issue is the gauge itself, the thermostat, or the sending unit?
There are no codes that come up on my OBD II reader at the moment.
Suburban :: 96 - Intermittent Stalling Upon Coming To A Stop
I have owned this 96 k1500 5.7L Vortex Suburban for 3 years.
Problem: Intermittent stalling upon coming to a stop. When it stalls and I try to restart the engine, the starter can barely spin the motor. The timing is thrown so far advanced that it will literally fire the engine backward and grind the starter gear on the flywheel. I have killed about six starters so far. I took it to the dealership and after two weeks they are clueless.
So far we have replaced: TPS, Ignition Module, Cam sensor, Crank sensor, ECM, and perhaps a few other things I don't recall at this time. If it would stall and simply restart, I could cope with it. The only way I have found to get it to start is when it stalls, pop hood, unplug the power source to the ignition coil, turn key and spin engine over for a few seconds, replug the power source to the ignition coil, and attempt a restart. Usually I don't have to do this more than once or twice.
Suburban :: 2005 Z71 Just Stop Moving Like It Is In Neutral
I have a 2005 Suburban Z71 and when in 2wd it will run for several miles then just stop moving like it is in neutral. In auto 4wd it runs just fine. What could this problem be and will it be okay to drive in auto 4wd until I get it to the shop?
View 1 RepliesSuburban :: 97 - Motor Stop Rotating For A Split Second Then Start Cranking
97 Suburban 5.7. When starting, engine turns over normally, but every 2 seconds or so the motor will completely and suddenly stop rotating for a split second, then start cranking again. It is as if every few seconds there is a buildup of compression in a cylinder that won't allow it to turn over. It will eventually start and run normally, but i believe this has contributed to going through 3 starters within 20k miles. The starters are free (warranty) but getting tired of putting them in.
View 6 RepliesSuburban :: 97 K2500 Suburban Shaking When Braking Above 30mph
I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
Ford :: Oil Pressure Gauge Fluctuate And Go To Zero
What would make the oil pressure gauge fluctuate and go to zero? I already replaced the oil sending unit, and changed the oil and filter, whats left? maybe a bad gauge?
View 5 RepliesC/K :: 1988 - Oil Pressure Gauge Pegged At Max When Running
So I have an 88 k1500 with the 350 that the previous owner removed and rebuilt... Didn't hook a lot of stuff back up etc... It's like a puzzle. It runs good for the most part but the oil pressure gauge in the cab pegs out when it's running. I've heard 1989 and older 350 engines have 2 oil pressure switches/sending units. I know about the one up by the distributor. But can't seem to locate the other one. Also what does the one by the distributor control? And what does the other one control?
View 1 RepliesPrius (Gen 3) :: Oil Pressure Reading On Scan Gauge II?
Can I read oil pressure on my scan gauge II ? If so, how do I do it?
View 14 Replies