Subaru - Outback :: Vehicle Bogs Or Loss Of Power When Stepping On Throttle But Idles Fine
1999 Outback 2.5, idles fine but bogs or loss of power when stepping on throttle. Can "feather" or tease to get going and will hold rpm once it gets there...
View 5 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: 2004 - Loss Of Power On Hills - Leaky Head Gasket?
My 2004 Subaru Outback has had the head gasket replaced, the O2 sensor replaced, spark plugs replaced. Still I cannot go up big hills anywhere near the speed limit. I think it may be the catalytic converter is bad from driving it with a leaky head gasket.
View 5 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: Oil Loss Without Burning Or Leaking
Over the last 6 months I've have to add at least a couple quarts of oil between oil changes but I can't figure out where it's going. it's not burning oil (as far as I can tell) nor can I detect any leaks. I thought it might be a head gasket but I would have assumed I would see some oil residue around the crank case but it looks relatively clean. the car has 174K miles and is otherwise in good running condition. Why I can to add so much oil? I'm also using high-mileage oil for each oil change.
View 4 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: Intermittent Loss Of Power Steering Ability
I bought my outback a few months ago from a dealer/mechanic who had fixed the car after it was totaled. So it has a reconstructed title, but it was hit in the back, so all the engine parts were unaffected by the crash. Since I have had the car I have experienced intermittent loss of power steering ability. Sometimes it's nearly impossible to parallel park or turn a corner gracefully, and other times, within the same short trip, the steering will be completely fine and smooth. I have had the issue looked at about three times now by different mechanics. Each time they have either replaced or tightened the belt, which temporarily fixes the problem. But within a few weeks it always comes back. Is there something not keeping the belt tight, or could the issue actually be in the power steering pump?
View 3 RepliesSubaru - Outback - Fuel-economy :: What Is Causing MPG Drop And Power Loss
My 2001 L.L.Bean Edition H6-3.0 is losing power & MPG on the fwy. Sometimes it will feel like something is holding it back or dragging. I've checked the brake calipers and they're not sticking, changed the air filter, oil & filter, transmission fluid, and still cannot find the problem. I've overfilled the gas tank and read this can damage the charcoal canister. Will a saturated charcoal canister cause a drop in power and MPG? What should I check out next?
View 10 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: 2004 - Overheats When A/C Runs
My engine starts to overheat (the thermostat creeps up towards the red) when I run the a/c. This started this summer. If I turn the a/c off, it settles back to normal. Mechanics said a/c pressure sensor was defective and caused a/c clutch to stay on all the time. so they replaced the a/c receiver dryer (whatever that is). didn't fix it. they looked again and said a/c fans were cutting out and causing overheating. they replaced them. that didn't fix it. now they're proposing exploratory open heart surgery: opening up the engine. if it only happens when the a/c runs, seems extreme.
View 5 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: 2004 - Lost Accelerator / CEL On?
Left for work yesterday AM on a "dark and stormy" morning. About 1/2 mile down the road lost my accelerator. Engine was running fine, but pushing pedal did nothing. Engine check light "ON". Opened hood and found a small mouse nest on top of throttle body. Came back after work. Looked for chewed cables, none found. Car started up and accelerator worked, drove home, hooked up code reader, P0138: downstream O2 sensor, high voltage. What could it be?Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor?
View 3 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: 2004 - Air Conditioner Keeps Going Off After About 5 Minutes
Our Air conditioner keeps on for about 5 minutes then cuts off. If we turn the car off and immediately back on it comes back on for another 5 minutes. we have taken it to the dealer twice at ca. 200 a pop and they say they have fixed it each time but they haven't.
View 7 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: 2004 - CEL Came On / Head Gaskets Leaking?
My Subaru Outback 2004 has 136,000 miles. Recently the check engine light came on and the mechanic diagnosed leaking head gaskets, cost to replace $2,000. Does it make sense to fix it or bite the bullet and get a new car?
View 3 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: 2004 - Loud Vibration Sound
I have a 2004 outback with just over 100k miles on it. It has been making a loud vibrating sound lately. It makes the sound when idling and even louder when I step on the gas, but at highway speeds the sound disappears. I do not actually FEEL a vibration, it just sounds as though something is vibrating/rattling. We had a mechanic check it out and they thought it was an exhaust issue. Apparently not, because the sound is still there.
View 4 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: 2004 - Smell Of Gas When Tank Is Filled
I have a 2004 subaru outback that smells of gas when the tank is filled. The smell persists for a couple of days after the tank is filled. It started in the spring and I brought it to the dealer but they couldn't find anything. It seemed to go away during the summer but now that the colder weather has started the problem has returned.
View 6 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: 2004 - Right Side Headlight Stopped Working
I have an 04 outback wagon with the right side headlight that has stopped working. I put a new bulb in but it still doesn't work. I tried swapping the fuse and the relay from the left side light but it still doesn't work. All the other lights on the car work. When I was poking around the connections with a meter the light flashed on/off a few times. Could this be a connection problem or something wrong with the rear headlight assembly?
View 1 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: 2004 - Motor Won't Stay Running When Car Started Intermittently?
I have a 2004 Subaru Outback. This fall I started having intermittent problems starting the car. It would run like a champ, no problems. Then every once in a while when I would try to start it, typically happens after it has sat all night, it would turn over just fine, motor would catch, then the motor would quit running (almost immediately upon start). It is kind of like the old days when your carburetor was not adjusted quite right and you would have to keep one foot on the brake the other on the gas while stopped at a stop light to keep the motor running.
The first time it happened we added "heat" as we thought it might be water in the gas line somewhere. It started, then ran just fine. This winter the problem started recurring more frequently. We added injector cleaner, it seemed to work a bit, but did not solve problem. We took it to the shop, and they could not figure out what was going on as nothing is registering on the computer and the car would start just fine for them. Brought the car home it worked OK for a week or so, then started up again.
The motor would catch then would quit running almost immediately. We were able to get it running good enough to get it to the shop (kept one foot on gas at stop lights, etc so would not kill). My car has been at the shop for two weeks now. It finally misbehaved on their watch, and they replaced a sensor, but they are not sure it fixed anything. They are keeping it so see if they can get a better diagnosis.
My first thought was the gas pump, but they said they had never seen a subaru gas pump fail and usually when a pump goes out, it goes out. They thought it could be electrical, but not sure as the problem is so intermittent. I would like to get my car fixed and back home. It's a great car; when it is running it runs great. The shop we work with is very good, and they are reluctant to start just replacing parts if it is not going to fix the problem.
Subaru - Outback :: 2004 - Slight High Frequency Vibration At Highway Speeds
This has been happening for the past 6 months or so. I recently had new ball joints, 4 wheel alignment, and 4 wheel balance. Even with this I'm noticing a very slight high frequency vibration at highway speeds. I noticed on one of the front wheels that a weight fell off, so this might explain the high speed vibration.
However - When I'm starting at 0mph, and accelerate to say 50mph for example, the car vibrates rather substantially as the speedometer moves from around 25mph to just past 30mph. After those speeds it goes away.
I've also noticed that it tends to be worse if I'm going up hill, which, according to the laws of physics, would tell me that going uphill would put more pressure on the front end, given it's heavier with the engine there. If I'm going downhill it vibrates much less.
When I drive I tend to not accelerate quickly, meaning, I don't 'punch' it, and accelerate gradually instead. If I'm driving on a level, well-paved road, and accelerate quicker than regular, the vibration seems to not be as heavy.
Any other tests for this? Struts, control arm, steering knuckle, drive shaft ?
Subaru - Outback :: 2004 - Growling And Squealing / No Power Steering At Slow Speeds
My 2004 Outback power steering was growling and squealing, but it was working ok at the time. I decided to replace the power steering pump before it completely failed and 3 hours later I was done. the growling and squealing was gone. However, when I backed the car out it was hard to steer at first. When I got going it all worked great, until I turned at the corner... hard steering again. When I got around the corner and up to speed everything is great again. The problem did not go away with time. Every time I turn at idle there seems to be no power steering. What is going on?
View 6 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: 2004 - Cruise Control Flashing - Replaced Both Banks - Catalytic Converter?
engine light and flashing cruise control switch--computer says replace bank one---so I replace with factory catalytic converter----six months later light comes back on with flashing cruise control switch and computer asking me to replace bank one---So I use computer to shut light off----four weeks later light comes back on----called dealer they said "we usually replace both banks"---I found it most painful paying for dealer supplied catalytic converter even when I was under the impression that it would keep light off.---This is my wife's car and she is not really buying the piece of black electrical tape I placed on dash over check engine light.---Am I dealing with a bad oxygen sensor ?
View 5 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 Hyundai 2.7L - Loss Of Throttle At Random Times
I've been having trouble diagnosing a loss of throttle at seemingly random times. Sometimes while driving, especially after driving for more than 20 minutes or so, I will experience a hesitation while on the gas pedal as if I have taken my foot off the gas. It makes it impossible to drive until I pull over and unplug my TPS and then I can drive fine in manual mode. Then the next day I can plug my TPS back in, drive around fine for a bit before the hesitation happens again and then I have to unplug the TPS again and drive in manual mode. It doesn't make sense to me why it takes a bit for this hesitation to begin and why unplugging the TPS and driving in manual mode seems to fix the problem.
I've recently replaced my crankshaft position sensor, idle air control valve, purge control valve solenoid and TPS. When I recently placed the TPS, the hesitation problem and another problem I've been having recently, a high idle in park, seemed to be fixed, but then the hesitation problem popped up again. When I unplug the TPS, the hesitation disappears and I can drive fine but the high idle in park problem is back! I'm suspecting some sort of wiring problem to the TPS. I just went on a 100 mile camping trip in manual mode no problem, but I can't be driving around forever with no TPS.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Power Loss And No Throttle Response
2005 F150, 5.4 motor. Truck would loose power and no throttle response. Shutting off and restarting, ran fine. No codes showing. Cleaned throttle body and plate, reassembled. Key left on for 20 minutes. Tried to start vehicle. Making a clicking sound, dash lights flashing on and off when hear clicking sound when trying to start vehicle. when key turned to on position, dash lights go off except check engine light. When checked, no codes shown.
View 3 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Loss Of Upper End Power - How To Check Throttle Body
Ok,..I've got a late model '04 5.4 150, (some parts matched an '05). About 4 mos ago I noticed a loss of upper end power, no cel, but the temp gauge only went up halfway and stayed there. eventually got a code saying temp sending unit (under manifold) was bad. I replaced the sending unit, gauge started working, no cel, but still some power loss.
After a while, cel again says rt bank faulty knock sensor, pull manifold, replace both, plus changed all 4 oxygen sensors. Last few months no cel, but still some loss of power, local trusted mechanic, thinks it could be a clogged cat / cats,..I was pretty sure it wasn't, sure enough, no back pressure. I'm at a loss, I replaced the plugs at 95,000 has 125,000 now, idles and starts great.
It feels like an old distributor car with a sticky shaft that doesn't want to advance, once in a while it feels almost normal, now a lot of people might not even feel it, it will still go 90, but won't lay rubber for 30ft like it used to, might chirp but definitely something not right,..is there any way to confirm throttle body opening all the way? I don't think it would be wise to run it with air box off and by pass mass air sensor right?