Golf V R32 :: Unable To Maintain A Steady Speed And Then Losing Power
R32 has 29,000 miles. I live at 8000ft. Recently, my R, when traveling back from sea level, starts to have what seems like fueling issues at around 7000ft. These take place by the car being unable to maintain a steady speed and then losing power. Once power falls you can press on accelerator and then will pick up again and accelerate through the gears until you need to back of the accelerator, then the same problem will happen... Once home after lurching around like a kangaroo the car will be fine if switched off and then left for an hour before driving again.
View 7 RepliesNissan - Xterra :: 2002 4WD Losing Power Traveling Uphill
The 2002 Nissan Xterra (4WD), automatic transmission, I drive for work is starting to have trouble traveling up hills. Just the other day I was traveling on a freeway up a fairly steep grade for ~6 miles. It wouldn't down shift and the pedal was to the floor while I watched the speed slowly drop. I started noticing earlier this year that it will disengage the cruise control on this same steep grade, though not every time. This used to be my personal vehicle and I have been driving it since 2002, so I know how it drives. A mechanic test drove it today and chalked it up to age (our admin assistant took it to the mechanic, so I didn't get to talk to him). Its got something like 170k miles. That is a lot of miles and it is 10 years old, but I am really wary of any diagnosis based solely on age.
View 8 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: Steady And Flashing Engine Light / Car Runs Very Rough
I have a 2006 Sonata 6-cyl with 124K miles on it that also has an engine light that stays on but the car runs fine with the solid light. Only on a COLD start, usually first thing in the morning, is when the engine light starts to flash and the car runs very rough. When the engine light flashes and the car is shut off for about 5 seconds and immediately restarted,the engine light again stays solid and the car runs fine. I have had this issue for approx 2 years.
One mechanic says the code that always comes up is "P0306" (cyl 6 misfire) when the engine light stays on solid. When the light flashes and the computer is read,it gives EIGHT separate codes and all are cylinder misfires (P0300-multiple misfires and then P0301 thru P0306 for each cylinder misfire).
One dealer in the Phoenix,AZ area says my #6 cylinder valve is sticking and I need a full valve job because they supposedly did a compression test on all cylinders (which I doubt they did). I have spent upwards of $2000.00 already at both the dealer and 2 other mechanics to try and find the issue. I feel it is an electrical problem (sensor or computer itself) because one would think the car should run rough ALL the time if it was the actual valve sticking,but it runs fine when the engine light stays solid. I am running out of time because my emission test is due in 4 months. I do not trust this dealer to diagnose this issue; they have proven to me they are incompetent and just want me to pay through the nose for possible fixes until they finally just happen to stumble upon the correct problem.
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Clinking Noise While Gradually Increasing Speed Or Full Throttle
I have this noise that is cumming from under the car about dead center Engine area its only heard while driving and more as the car has been driven for some time. From speeds 20mph and above only when increasing speed or when full throttle. It wont do it in park or revving it i jack up the car front end and put in drive only front right tire turns but still no noise(is there away for the left tire to turn). Everthing works normal the noise is low and at times only.
2.4L Sonata 68000+miles.
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Losing Power Steering Fluid
Filled up my power steering every 3 days this week. Finally climbed under the car and saw this. How difficult or expensive this will be to fix? Is it just replacing the rubber boot or is it more severe?
View 12 RepliesChevrolet - Tahoe :: 2003 - Reduced Engine Power Message / Speed Losing
I have a 2003 Tahoe that I love but is driving me crazy with a "Reduced Engine Power" message. I am driving along and suddenly it dings at me, the message center says "reduced engine power" and I am losing speed. It goes into a "limp mode" in which I cannot accelerate, it cannot pull itself up a hill, and the engine misses badly. I can pull over, shut it off for a couple of minutes and then start it up and run again just fine until it decides to do it again.
There seems to be no rhyme or reason, one day it did it 4 times w/n the first 20 miles, then ran 100 miles w/o doing it at all. I recently took it on a trip that normally takes me 1 1/2 hours, it took 2 1/4 hrs that day because I had to pull over so many times. I was having to stop every 3-4 miles by the time I got there. My usual mechanic has completely given up, told me to trade it. I have had it to another mechanic for over a month now, 3 times he has thought it was fixed, but it wasn't. One time, I didn't even make it the 5 miles to my house before it acted up again.
One other note on this: this past trip I made, I left early in the morning and my lights were flickering high/low. . . this went on for several miles. Finally my lights quit flickering, then I lost engine power, pulled over, shut it off. When I started it back up, the lights started flickering again. The cycle seemed to continue, once the lights would settle, the engine would lose power. I took it to a parts store and had the battery and alternator checked. They said both were fine. (Had never noticed the light thing before, but I can't think of a recent trip after dark.) How I can pass along to my mechanic?
Sonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: 2.0T Engine Losing Considerable Power On Freeway
On the freeway tonight the engine was felt like it was losing considerable power. When I pressed the gas it wouldn't push you into the seat like usual and it shuddered a little. As I was pushing the gas the engine light came on for a couple seconds then turned off. After I exited the freeway, I tried pushing the gas and it wouldn't accelerate. It also seemed like it was limiting itself to 60mph and 4-5k rpm, even when the gas was fully down (not past gate though, I was afraid I wouldn't be able to make it home if I did so). I stopped and turned the car off and on again and the problems seemed to have disappeared. Acceleration came back, car went over 60 and I was able to get it a little past red line with gas pedal past gate.
View 3 RepliesToyota - Camry :: Shaking When Traveling At Highway Speed While Under Power
1989 Camry, 2.0L A/T- 97K mi.- This car has developed a violent shaking condition when traveling at highway speed. It only occurs after the car has been driven for at least 1/2 hour. It does not appear to be related to an individual wheel or axle, and happens only when the accelerator pedal is depressed and the car is in gear and moving at 50+ MPH. Steering is not affected, nor does turning the steering wheel increase or decrease the shaking. The shaking stops when the accelerator is released. The engine runs smoothly, with no misfire or vibration.
View 3 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: ABS And ECS Dash Lights Keep Turning On When Traveling On Highway Speeds
I've been having a problem which i cant seem to find the fix for. My ABS and ECS dash light keep turning on. Its intermittent and does not stay on. Ive noticed that it usually happens if I travel at highway speeds for more than 15miles. I had the brakes x4 changed 1 year ago and all brake pads show good life. Brake fluid is at a good level with no leaks to be seen. I am wondering if its one of the sensors? How can one check for that? I have a 2006 3.3l GLS with 86k.
View 2 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: Check Engine And ESC Lights Come On - Car Has No Throttle / Pedal Response
2009 Limited, 3.3L, 65000 miles.
Car starts, check engine light and ESC light come on. The car has no throttle/pedal response. It will not go above idle speed and it doesn't matter how much the fuel pedal is pressed. So we've turned around and returned to where we started.
The first time I let the car sit for five minutes and started it. No problems for four weeks. Yesterday, we tried that four times and that didn't work. I disconnected the battery for five minutes and the car works normally again.
Mazda - 2300 :: Engine Misses At Steady Speed
[URL] .... Mazda 2.3 Liter 4 cyl. accelerates fine in all gears, but once you reach a steady speed in any gear, it jerks and bumps. Does not run smooth unless you are accelerating?
View 2 RepliesPrius V :: Engine Is Running At Very Low RPM In ECO Mode At Steady Speed 40 MPH
I've noticed the Prius V engine is running at very low RPM in ECO mode at steady speed of about 65km/h (40mph). Fuel consumption vary between about 4-5L/100km (58 - 47mpg) and RPM is showing about 1100+
I usually see RPM of about 1100 to 1400+ which is very good; so I'm not surprised this engine is very fuel efficient.
Golf/GTI VI :: Car Randomly Losing Power / Throttle
Over the past month I've had an issue with my car randomly losing power/losing throttle. When this happens the car acts as if its lost power, and I have no throttle at all. That said everything electronic on the car is still on in terms of radio, heat, seat warmers, low beams; but on the dash the battery indicator is illuminated. The way I've found to "fix"this is either to brake and pull over and put the car in park and restart it, or while moving shift into neutral and push the key forward to "start" the car again. I've also had this happen back to back, meaning that I restart the car and when I go to accelerate the throttle cuts out and the car acts in the same fashion where it dies and I have to restart it again. The times this has happened there hasn't been any sort of common factor attributed to it and honestly I'm at a loss for what could be causing the issue. The car does have an APR stage 2 tune but other than that nothing electronic really done to it.
View 2 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: Engine Noise At Cruising Speed
I did a search and what I saw all had to do with noise at startup.Mine is during cruising. I have a 2007 Sonata 4 cylinder with 112K miles. Within the last few months it began making a slight chattering noise when I accelerate and when cruising. It's worst around 55mph. When I let off, it almost goes away, but is loudest when I just am feathering the pedal to maintain speed.
If I put the pedal down a little more and accelerate, it is not loud, but still faintly there. At first I thought it was a tapping sound, but I've let some of my friends listen and its more like a clattering, metal rattling, or vibration perhaps. Its hard to describe. A week ago I had the check engine light come on with a "P0011 Hyundai - 'A' Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Or System Performance Bank 1".
I changed the oil and took it into a local shop and they cleared the code/light and checked things out (the light hasn't reappeared). I had them take off the valve cover and make sure the top end was not making the noise. It seemed fine to them. They suggested I take it to the dealer for further diagnosis. I have not yet. It does not make noise during start up. If I have time I will upload a audio recording later. What may be making the noise? It seemed to get a little louder after the latest oil change, but that's probably me being more sensitive to the problem.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: FX4 Surges While Trying To Maintain A Steady Speed During Power Delivery To Wheels
Problem I'm having, when in overdrive my 04' F150 FX4 5.4 Triton surges while trying to maintain a steady speed during power delivery to the wheels, it causes a shuttering and bucking effect. If I push the button to turn the O/D off, the RPMs rise and problem goes away. During the problem no CEL illuminates and tach stays constant. Fluid condition & level are okay. (not burnt) I'm completely baffled since there is no code in the ECM to point me in the right direction. I do use the truck to occasionally tow my 5k lb boat & trailer. When I began towing I did not know to turn the O/D off and put some miles on towing in overdrive, I know now that was not good for the tranny.
View 7 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: Occasional Power Steering Loss Right After Slowing Down From Highway Speed
My 2006 Sonata V6 (88k miles) has an occasional power steering loss. It has only been noticed right after slowing down from highway speed. Total loss for a few seconds then comes back. No dash lights or noises, just cant steer - then can. Did all required maint. until 60k then just oil changes by me. Have read other forums about fluid flush, but that was for noise and I don't have any noise. This has happened with and without the Electronic Stability Control turned on. Other than that, runs great. MPG is about 25 or so (wish was 30 or so).
View 9 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 - Faint Engine Tick / Click Sound When Accelerating At Speed
I have been experiencing a slight issue with my 07 Sonata V6 lately. When I am accelerating, most commonly when already at speed around 80 to 90 km/h, I would hear this 2-3 ticks / clicks when I press lightly or moderately on the accelerator pedal. The car would accelerate fine without any further noises. When I release the pedal, the car slows down a bit, and I press on the pedal again, then the same sound re-appears.
View 2 RepliesGolf - Volkswagen :: 2000 TDI Losing Power At High Speed
I got vw golf 2000 tdi , I never had a problem with it, the other day I was driving on high speed just about to over take my car slow dawn it was feel like there no turbo, in low gears is fine but if u go over 70 mph it won't go, but soon is u switch off the engine and start again it will come back to normal ??
View 18 RepliesAccent MC (2006-11) :: Check Engine Light Steady On
This morning started to drive to work and the check engine light came on or actually did not go off. Not sure which. Anyway it is a steady light not blinking and the car runs fine. Problem is that the warranty is out by about 3 weeks, not by mileage and I have an appointment at the dealer on Monday. If I take it to Partsource and have the code read will it delete the code or turn off the light. Just wondering as I don't want to spend money at the dealer if whatever is wrong is not covered under the emissions warranty if I can get the code and fix it myself. Don't want the code deleted either if the dealer needs it.
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