Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Hyundai LX 3.7 Jerks Then Hard To Accelerate
This has happened a few times when the car jerks, check engine light comes on and seemingly goes into limp mode. Cannot engage 4 wd either. I leave the car for while then come back and the engine light is off and the car works normally.
View 2 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 - Continuous Knocking Noise When Accelerate
I have a 2002 Santa Fe, 2.4, 2WD, stick shift with 125,000 miles on it. The problem started 9 months ago, when I was driving up-hill above 45 or 50 mph that continuous knocking noise came up from the rear-underneath the car, in order to stop it I had to reduce the speed, the problem has been there since then, but now is getting worse due to the noise comes up even driving on the street, when I'm gunning the car and shift to the next gear the noise comes up for 1 second, meanwhile I'm pressing the clutch pedal and then disappears, It's really weird because looks like it is related to the engine but the noise is in the rear.
I forgot to tell that the noise is not metallic, sounds like plastic or rubber, besides I already replaced the rear shock absorbers, inspected the exhaust to see any sign like touching the body of the car and checked all around the tires to see any sign of wear out and nothing, everything looks good.
Santa Fe (DM - 2013+) :: Rattling Sound Coming From Engine When Accelerate
Well I have been hearing a rattling sound coming from my engine when I accelerate around 55-70 for a second and then coast. Once I start coasting I hear some type of rattle noise coming from the engine. I just got back from the dealer and was told that the mid-section to my exhaust was bad and it needs to be replaced. The part # is 28600-4z300. I looked it up and it costs $1400 now, but it is on sale for $1000. I am hoping that this will fix the issue I am running into right now.
This problem adds to the list of crap I have been through with this car starting at 4000 miles. First a blown timing chain blows my engine, then my car goes into the shop 4 different times over a month and a half for a overheating/coolant issue. Had to get the engine replaced because apparently my "NEW" re-manufactured engine was leaking coolant into my engine. Now only 2 months since that has been put in I need a new exhaust..
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2008 Limited - When Accelerate Car Seems To Pull To One Side
I'm noticing more and more on the highway when i accelerate that my car seems to pull to one side then when it shifts it snaps back. I'm not really sure if i'm even describing a transmission issue or a power steering issue. Basically, it just seems to pull and snap back fairly strongly, enough to cause a slight swerve as it shifts during acceleration. (No error codes or check engine lights)
View 1 RepliesSanta Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Loud Thunk Then Couldn't Accelerate And Engine Light Came On
2007 Santa Fe 2.7 engine
My wife was driving along and she said she heard a loud 'thunk' and then she couldn't accelerate and the engine light came on. I don't know if she had to restart it or what but she finished out her day and made it home ok. The engine light went off. When she got home I put the scanner on it. I have a Actron 9580A. It came up with 3 codes.
P2106
P1295
P161b
From what I've read on here and what the codes tell me I guess I need a throttle position sensor and that a computer update is needed. Is the ECM update something that can be done without taking it in? If I do need someone to update it is the dealer the best place? Can I install the TPS then drive there? Or does it have to be done at the same time? I was just thinking I might save a few bucks doing it myself.
Prior to this the Santa Fe had no codes. I do need to replace the battery which tested bad last month. I think the battery will need to be replaced before doing the update.
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Stiff Brake Pedal / Hard To Accelerate And Speed Drops Fast Without Gas
This happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
View 17 RepliesHyundai - Tiburon :: 2001 Won't Accelerate With AC On?
I drive a manual 2001 Hyundai Tiburon. I tried to take it on the expressway today and it took a long time for the RPMs to get high enough that I could shift gears. It seems to want to hover at about 2000. When I finally got into 5th gear, it would only go about 50-55mph with the pedal to the floor. When I turned off the AC, though, it would go about 70mph, but it lost speed quickly on hills and took a long time to regain it. I am not sure, but it seems like the gas mileage was substantially worse than it normally is. I didn't notice any new noises or smells or shakes or anything like that. The car is just really lagging and my mechanic is closed for the night. I would like to at least have a guess what it is so I don't have to worry about it all night.
View 5 RepliesElantra XD (2001-06) :: No Power To Wheels / Car Will Rev Into 4Ks And Will Not Accelerate
I might bring up a couple issues I've been having with my 2001 elantra gls manual recently.
The big one: Recently, if I accelerate aggressively or even moderately (passing someone or merging onto the freeway), there will be no power to the wheels and the car will rev into the 4K's and will not accelerate until I let off the pedal and am in the 2500 range. Then I can accelerate ever so slowly through the gears or risk being "disconnected". If that even makes sense. Basically, I shift into gear, accelerate, if I accelerate too fast (which is not fast at all) it "goes into neutral" and revs up to 4K and above until it falls back to 2500 or so.
The other problem is that my dash lights keep going on and off. Only some of them, and if I bash my dash they'll sometimes come back on. I checked for loose wiring. Non to be found.
Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2005 - Jerking Soon After Accelerate
My 2005 Elantra is jerking soon after I accelerate. It does not jerk at any other time. It's not a hard jerk. Sometimes it doesn't jerk at all after acceleration. When it does jerk, the rpm jumps up too, and goes back down after the jerk.
I took it to a transmission shop and they checked the fluid and used a diagnostic thing to check the electrical components, all of which were fine. Is there another possible reason for this jerking?
Audi - A4 :: 2001 - Won't Accelerate For Short Duration?
2001 Audi A4 1.8T... Driving down the highway the other day, a lovely place to be stricken w/car problems, the accelerator seemed to just up and quit on me. I went from a solid 70mph to 30, then w/in five seconds it came back to life, thrusting us forward back to speed, then within another five seconds, it cut out and I just made it onto the shoulder. Had it towed home. . . it will crank, but won't start, and now am wondering if it's worth the fix. Dealer just replaced a recalled part and gave me a supermarket list of to-fixes, none of which seem like they directly relate, especially w/out a check engine on or specific error codes. Have replaced the MAF sensor, Vacuum Check Valve, Gas tank/pump, Battery and Alternator w/in the past several years.
View 17 RepliesPrius (2001-03) :: 2002 Stalls After Starting, Not Able To Accelerate
This evening, after not driving my car for a couple of days, I tried to start it and got the check engine light, triangle with exclamation point, and car symbol with exclamation point. It seemed to start, then shuddered and stalled. I was able to get it going by immediately putting it in drive and driving before it had a chance to stall. Then while driving, stepping on the accelerator did nothing- like no gas was getting through yet the car was still moving ahead. I quickly returned home and checked Prius Chat for advice.
I checked the throttle body, which was not stuck, but did see a tiny pool of oil in the bottom. I then started it in the driveway and the tiny pool of oil disappeared and it stayed running. I then took it out for another drive and it ran fine and accelerated normally.
All the warning lights are still on though, and I will try and get the codes read tomorrow or the next day.
Civic - Honda :: 2001 - Engine Just Shuts Down And Cannot Accelerate Above 30 Mph
I have a 2001 Honda Civic Ex that goes into limp mode when the weather is hot. It only happens in hot weather: I drove it during the cooler months, and no problems. Also, it doesn't have any problems if I drive it at cooler times of the day (evening, night).
When the weather outside is hot (~75+ degrees) I can only drive my car for about 20 miles before the check engine light comes on and it goes into limp mode, where the engine just shuts down and I cannot accelerate above 30mph. The engine is still running, but when I push on the gas pedal I can only go like 20-30mph. This happens when the ac is on or when the ac is off, but will happen sooner if the ac is on.
When this happens, I pull over to the side of the road and wait several minutes. Then I can restart my car and drive a few more miles, and then it happens again: limp mode. Then I pull over again, wait, and restart it. It starts fine.
In the winter months I don't have any problems, and my car drives fine. I have had the thermostat replaced, and the temperature gauge does not indicate overheating.
Mercury - Cougar :: 2001 - Engine Sputtering When Accelerate Normally From 35 - 45 Mph
I have a 2001 Mercury Cougar 2.5l v6 with 142,000 miles. If I'm in idle, you can feel it discordantly kind of jumping. Guessing it's coming from the engine. When I accelerate, normally from 35-45 mph the engine sputters and is very jerky but then accelerates as normal. I am going through gas more than before. I've replaced the spark plugs and wires and it hasn't fixed.
It runs worse when my AC is on, guessing because it's more stress on the engine. don't know if it's relevant but I have a signal on my dashboard that shows how many miles I have left to drive with the amount of gas I currently have - and it's become way off, is totally inaccurate now. I also know I need an oil change.
Don't know a whole lot about cars, but I can't afford to have my car become out of commission. What the problem would be? The last mechanic I saw said it needs a tune up, but it was expensive so I've been trying things myself first.
Yukon :: 2001 GMC - Random Misfire / Getting About 2000 RPMs When Accelerate
I have recently had some problems with my 2001 Yukon, it a 5.3L and has 4x4. when I accelerate I get about 2000 RPMs maybe and can barely get above 35mph. I brought it to a local dealer for a diagnosis and was told I had a bad catalytic converter, four bad O2 sensors and bad injector connectors. I've replaced the injector connectors but its still acting up. I don't want to spend the 700-1000 on a new catalytic converter when I can just replace the sensors.
View 4 RepliesFord - Ranger :: 2001 - Knocking And Smoking When Accelerate Uphill
About 3 weeks after an oil change, my 01 Ford Ranger started knocking and smoking when I accelerated up hills. I checked the oil levels to find that it was completely empty. Refilled the oil, but the problem persisted. Tried gas additive--nothing. Finally limped into the Ford dealership where they kept my car for 6 weeks trying to figure out what the problem was. After new plugs, wires, MAF sensor, coil, and PCM the problem seemed to be fixed...mostly. Knocking and smoking eventually stopped until I checked the oil levels again and it was empty. Added oil which started the symptoms all over again. Mechanic ruled out blown gasket. Claims knocking and smoking are unrelated (even though they happen at the same time 100% of the time). Smoke is white. Knocking (at its worst) sounds like a bolt rattling around in engine. Car does not lose power, and when I gun the engine it seems to go away. Only happens going up hills (of which Tennessee has plenty of).
View 4 RepliesElantra XD (2001-06) :: Slow To Accelerate - Multiple Error Codes
My '02 Elantra would have a hard time starting up in the winter right after I filled the gas to full. Usually I would have to give it some gas to startup. After that, it didn't have problems starting up until I filled it again. This was only in the winter.
About a month and a half ago, it became really slow to accelerate. Since the O2 sensor light had been on constantly for a long time I never bothered to check it. Soon the car became really slow to accelerate and would lunge forward in spurts. The error codes I got were P0133 and the O2 sensor. I replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, and this seemed to do the trick. The check engine light went away, the car sped up nice and quick. Also at that time, I put in some fuel injector cleaner.
The a couple weeks ago, P0133 and P0420 came back. It seems like the car is using up more gas than it should. There is a very minimal sluggish response when I push the gas. I have a spare ignition coil, but trying to find what it could be more specifically before I swap out more parts willy nilly.
Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Hard Shift When Put It In Reverse / Hesitates Quite A Bit To Accelerate
I have an 01 Elantra Gls with perplexing issues. The car starts at 3000 rpms, and continues to bounce between 2k and 3.5k in both park and neutral. when I put it in reverse i get a very hard shift. It actually jerks the whole car. in drive and reverse, it idles around 1.5k it hesitates quite a bit to accelerate. All fluid levels are right and don't smell burnt. it takes me 10 mins to put 4 gallons of gas in. if i pump too fast it shoots back at me. i randomly smell gas while driving. Im hoping these problems are a couple of issue I can handle at home. i just wanted some input before i buy the manual. thinking vacuum lines maf sensor.
View 7 RepliesElantra XD (2001-06) :: 2002 - Shudders And Doesn't Accelerate Well When Going Uphill
I've been having problems with my '02 Elantra. It shudders and doesn't accelerate well (or at all) going up hill, or attempting to accelerate quickly (like passing a car on the interstate). If I try to push it through these situations it will run worse, engine light flashes, and sometimes will stall. In the past, when it stalled, it would start up again in about 30mins or so.
Codes it has thrown were P0304, P0303, and P0420.
When I took it to mechanic, he really couldn't figure it out. He ended up testing and replacing fuel pump motor in November. Got it back and within a few days it was throwing same codes and having same symptoms.
Everything else from this point as been DIY. I bought a manual, researched these forums, learned as I went, and did the following myself:
I changed the spark plugs and wires. Still ran as described above but at this point when the engine light comes on, I am only down to the P0304 code right now.
Thought perhaps it was a vacuum leak. I have very few tools, and Autozone said I could use seafoam as a means to tell if I had a leak if smoke came out of vacuum lines as I put it in. I tried this, none came out of vacuum lines that I could tell. I drove it after seafoam, some white smoke came out tail pipe from solution but dissipated after driving a little while, and then I had the shuddering issues and loss of power while driving the interstate. It literally would act like I wasn't pressing the gas peddle, then suddenly surge as if it realized I was... engine continued to run until I pulled over and then it stalled. Normally it would start right back up after 30mins or so. But this time it didn't, I had to tow it home.
With a crap load of starter fluid and jamming the gas pedal, I finally got it to start. It ran horribly at idle, had a weird knock. So I didn't drive it and did the following instead.
I replaced the coil pack.
Replaced crank position sensor.
I confirmed that I have spark on all 4 cylinders.
There are no obvious oil leaks (nothing on garage floor and I don't see any obvious signs of wet oil on engine or smoke when it runs)
Temperature is fine, coolant level is normal & hasn't needed refill or topping off.
I pulled the fuel pump again, noticed that the fuel sock had holes and was full of muddy/pasty type crap. Gas was dark, cloudy in spots, and appeared to separate in some areas.
Replaced fuel sock.
Syphoned gas.
Thoroughly cleaned out gas tank.
Put premium gas in.
Manually cleaned fuel injectors.
Reassembled and it started right up, runs strong, no more weird knock, but the other symptoms start to reappear... the shuddering, loss of power, and stalling. Its intermittent... sometimes when I jam on the gas peddle, sometimes when I'm cruising at low speeds. I can force it to stall by jamming on the gas peddle to the floor, acts like it's choking, engine light flashes, lose power, then it stalls. Pretty much every time I push it like that.
I can continue to limp it to Autozone for codes, but the engine light currently isn't on.... and it usually takes it a hard drive pushing it through the symptoms for the light to appear, and it's always been the P0304 code at this point.
Is there anything else I can do from home with no special testing equipment?
Is there a part or sensor that would cause these symptoms and NOT throw a code other than the misfire?
Ford - Taurus :: 2001 - Fourth Cylinder Misfire / Car Won't Accelerate
Question about a 4th cylinder misfire question? The engine light has been on off and on for about one year. I have not had any problems with performance until about one week ago. sometimes it shakes and the engine light flashes when it is idling. Today my husband drove it, and it would not accelerate when he put his foot on the gas, but it would pick up speed when he left his foot off the gas! Weird. This is an old car (2001 Ford Taurus station wagon) with 137,000 miles on it. We need this car.
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