Chevrolet - Silverado :: 1994 - Battery Seems Low (dead) Every Few Days
I have a 1994 checy silverado 2500 with 3 year old battery, alternator, and starter. I left the car for a week and came back and the battery was dead and needed a jump start. Charged up and sat for 3 days and dead again. I check for lights on and nothing.
View 1 RepliesLexus GX 2010+ :: Power Loss / Shut Down - Dead Gas Pedal
While driving to work this morning driving about 25 MPH and increasing speed gradually in traffic the lane I was traveling came to a sudden stop, I slammed on the brakes, ABS took over and I steered around the stopped lane of traffic with no issue. Here comes the problem, I never stopped rolling and traffic was coming up behind me in the lane that I just went in to and I stepped on the gas pedal and got nothing, truck was running, no lights or warnings just a dead gas pedal. This only lasted maybe 5 seconds and then it went but it was totally dead no matter how hard I stepped on the gas and vehicles were beeping at me from behind me. It finally went (5 seconds seems awful long when cars are approaching fast from behind) and it drove fine from there on. I guess I plan on trying to recreate this issue but thought maybe there is something with these trucks that caused this that I don't know about?
View 2 RepliesFord Aerostar :: 1995 - Loss Of Power - Cylinder Was Dead
3.0 ENGINE - For a year now I could not figure out what was wrong with my van. It has a loss of power low end but seems to run OK at higher speeds. I changed the plugs, wires, cap etc, fuel filter and no difference. I finally broke down and took it to Firestoneto diagnose it. The guy told me #5 plug was foul and had oil on in, said it is possibly the rings. They did not charge me but they also did not do a thorough check either. They did not check the compression in the cylinder or other spark plugs.
Spoke to a guy at the auto part store and asked what I could do. He said change the oil and add a can of restore. Also said to put a anti foul adapter in first and then the new plug, the adapter would keep the oil from fouling the new plug.
I got the oil change and added the restor. Drove it for a while and took the plug out myself, its the 2nd one in on the drivers side. The plug was nasty looking. Put the new plug in and started it up. I can see that there is spark going to the new plug but putting the wire on and off made no difference in how the engine ran, like the cylinder was dead. I took the plug out of the adapter and put it back in, still nothing, I took the plug back out and there was no oil or smell of gas. Fuel injector not working? You would think there would be some combustion with the new plug.
A year ago the problem started where the van would run great one day then crappy the next. Sometimes it would run a few days great(like new) then a few days crappy. After a month or so it just ran crappy and basically has ran the same for a year now. I notice the A/C puts a load on the engine and the A/C clutch will click on and off every few second when the van is in gear but not when the van is in park or neutral. A/C is not low and works fine when driving, very cold. I normally turn the A/C off during take off because it takes off much slower with the A/C running.
The van shows some white smoke when I rev it up real good when I first start it but it does not show any smoke when idle and while driving.
Prius (Gen 2) :: No Battery And AC Info After Power Loss On 12volt Battery
I was installing an aftermarket nav system on prius 08, because 2 hours working with dome lights on I have to jump start, now battery doesn't show bars is blank no mpg status, a message appeared check a/c connections.
I check connections and NOTHING avg mpg got stuck... enter to service menu shows 13.6 volts while running and the car is running fine! just the bars doesn't appear not even mpg avg
Jeep - Grandcherokee :: 1994 - Complete Loss Of Power When Accelerating
1994 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 100,000 miles:
Driving out to see my BF this afternoon I noticed when I accelerated it hesitated a bit. I didn't think anything of it so I let it go. Driving home was another story. I was about 5 miles from home coming up to a red light and I started to brake, the light turned green and I hit the accelerator and I got no juice, I got across the highway and started to brake and the brakes locked up, the steering wheel locked up and then I lost all power. I got the Jeep to stop (right at the exit to a train station ) I tried to turn it back on and got no juice. I just got a new battery about 3 weeks ago. I called 911 since I was stuck in the middle of the road right outside the railroad station. Officer asked me to try to crank the engine again, asked if I had gas (have 1/2 tank) and then got me pushed into a spot until I can get a tow to my house in the morning.
The car has been fine, I never put "off" gas in, try not to let the gas get below half a tank.
Buick - Century :: 1994 - Complete Loss Of Power With Key Turn
My daughter drives a 94 Century (120+ K) and it was running great, no issues to speak of. Thursday morning she was advised that her brake lights were stuck on when the car was parked in school lot. This drained the battery. The battery was very old so she got a new one properly size & installed; the car started up and drove fine. Later that evening it started up and drove again with no issues.Next morning; NOTHING; No Start. I checked and when door is opened interior lights come on, insert key and door chime rings. Turn key and there is nothing at all, a total loss of power, lights go out, door stops chiming but nothing. Starter never engages, no noise, no attempts of the engine to turn, remove key and lights return and door chimes!
1994 Buick Century 3.1L SFI OHV 6cyl .....
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Running Hot - Loss Of Power
So I got everything fixed on my 94 ranger so I thought. Now it runs right on the "L" on the idiot gauge on 90 degree plus days running the AC. Also it seems to lose power at times and not even want to do 70. I think new coils, new plugs and wires may work. I also have an intermittent check engine light that pops up on occasion, but clears when you kill the motor and start it back up. I was really starting to like this truck despite it not being my style(I like square body rangers) and it being a 4 cylinder. I like the MPG but am starting to think the 200k engine may be fading
View 14 RepliesOldsmobile - Cutlass :: 1994 - Intermittent Engine Power Loss During Acceleration
I have a 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser 3.1 with an intermittent engine power loss during acceleration. Usually it occurs just after leaving a stop sign or light once or sometimes twice in a row. It is not a hesitation - it is a very abrupt loss of power. I've kept up on the standard maintenance very well and the car has 80,000 miles, so I would not suspect spark plugs, wires, or fuel filter. It does not have a tachometer, but I am 99% sure the transmission is not slipping or jumping out of gear, but that the engine is actually loosing spark or fuel. This problem is very intermittent, but it has triggered the check engine light a couple of times. The check engine light does not stay on, and when I took it to my mechanic he said to keep driving it until the light stayed on or the problem was more easy to replicate. Right now, if a mechanic went for a test drive, there is a good chance it would not show any symptoms. My mechanic did mention that it may turn out to be an ignition module.
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Hard To Start - CEL On - Power Loss
1994 Ranger .. Last wednesday I had to get a jump because the lights where left on. Everything was normal on thursday. Friday morning. I went to go start the truck and notice that it would try once to start and then try a second time and it would start. Today I was driving it. The check engine light came on and when I get the RPMs up to shift up, I would loose all power and have to wait till it gets down below 10mph before I would get the power back.
View 8 RepliesChevrolet - Suburban :: 1994 - Slower When Accelerating Cold Or Warm / Power Loss
I have a 94 Chevy Suburban C1500 with a 5.7L, 350 Engine. It has 235,000 miles on it. I purchased it about 4 years ago with 191,000 miles in very good condition and obviously well maintained. I have continued to maintain it well.
For the past few months it has begun to start a little slower that before and when accelerating cold or warm there is a spot where it looses power. It doesn't sputter or die it just looses power. I can press the accelerator farther and it will come back to life and do fine. After a 20 -30 minute drive if I park for a while, 20 - 30 minutes, when I start it up it dies. The only way to keep it running is to give it the gas and smooth it out at about 1500 rpm for 10 - 15 seconds. Then I can drive it with no problem most of the time though it still has the dead spot on acceleration.
There is a good spray pattern from the throttle body injectors. Plugs and wires are relatively new and plugs look good (AC Delco Rapidfire Platinum). When I turn on the ignition without going to start, the fuel pump builds pressure for 4 - 6 seconds. I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet and am considering investing in the rig to do so. I recently replaced the fuel filter but that didn't work.
The check engine light has not come on but many of the lights in the cluster are burned out and I haven't felt like going to the trouble to fix that so it is possible that the check engine bulb is bad.
Passat (B5) :: 1999 1.8T - No Power After Dead Battery
Three weeks ago I left my lights on while at work. After I jumped it, everything was running terribly. I had absolutely no power and it felt like the engine was going to fall out at any time. I got it home and had a roommate look at it. After not seeing anything wrong, I tried starting it again and everything ran perfectly fine. I'm assuming it was something with the computer and it just needed reprogrammed.
So last week a friend of mine drove the car and also left the lights on. When we went to jump it, it would start for 2-3 seconds then stall, even with a little gas. After a few attempts, it stopped starting. Now, it'll turn but nothing else. We pulled the battery and put it on a charger. The battery held 12.6V and is only 6 months old. Put it back in and got the same result.
The fuel pump is turning on and I've checked every fuse. It is around 20 degrees out but I had a full tank so I don't believe it to be a frozen fuel line. It seems like an electrical problem since there were no mechanical problems before the dead battery. The only complaint I had was a lack of power sometimes, but I don't think that would have a great deal with this.
Camry :: Battery Dead - No Power To Engine Now Won't Start
My battery was dead. Jumped the battery but hooked up cables wrong. Put car on battery charger.
Car has power now. Turns over but does not start. Seems like no power to engine. Engine light is on.
Is there a fuse that needs to be fixed?
2007 Camry LE with 4 cyl.
Prius (2010-12) :: 12V Battery Dead - Car Has Power And Key Fobs Do Not Work
The dealershhip told me my 12volt battery may be dead. the symptoms are the car has now power and the key fobs do not work. I tried jump starting last night. The first time I hooked up jumper cables up my alarm started going off. I lost connection and reconnected and only the orange light came on on the power button, and check engine light came on and green light came on on park button.
View 17 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: 2005 - ABS - Power Steering Gone - Battery Dead?
If this has been posted before feel free to remove. I searched everywhere and didn't see exactly what I experienced with our Prius when the 12v battery was in it's final stages of death so I wanted to share.
Below issues all occurred within a one week time period 3-7-16 to 3-14-16. 2005 Prius with 145k miles, replaced traction battery on 7-30-15 / 127k miles.
First occurrence - happened a few seconds after starting and driving the vehicle. The ABS light came on and the power steering faded out and then came back, just briefly, and the car did not die. Turned the car off and back on again and all was well.
I performed the 12v battery test by entering maintenance mode. (hold the display button and turn the lights on/off three times, vehicle signal check, battery check) the battery was reading 11.9volts with the car off, I drove the car and it was charging at around 14.7volts and then was reading 12.2 with the car off after driving it. Which at the time seemed a little weak but nothing that was a red flag. I've read that you're supposed to replace the 12 volt battery every 4 years but I swear the one I removed looked stock.
Second time - again happened just a few seconds after starting the car and driving. ABS light came on, red triangle of death light, brake light, power steering was gone, and the power steering light came on, the car did not die. Restart fixed the issues again.
Third time - Happened about 30 minutes in to the trip while the wife was driving on the interstate around 75mph, wipers were on due to rain but visibly lost power, radio came on and off, all the lights on the dash (warning lights included) flickered on and off, power steering was gone, car died completely and would not restart. Tow driver had to boost the battery long enough to put the car in neutral so we could load it on to the tow truck. When we got the car home the battery was completely dead again.
I ordered an Optima Battery 8171-767 (DS46B24R) YellowTop Prius Battery from Amazon which appears to be a direct replacement, and simple to install. I drove the car for a few miles, returned to the house, performed battery test again via maintenance mode and the battery was charging at 14.0 and reading 12.5 when off. I can't be certain but I think the battery check feature may be displaying false information if the battery has dead cells and the car is trying to charge the battery? I took the old battery to Advanced Auto Parts and had them run a diagnostic check and the tester stated that the battery had dead cells and needed to be replaced. I gave them the old battery even though I didn't buy the new one from them and got a 10.00 store credit, unexpected and nice.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: No Enough Power To Turn The Engine - Dead Battery
I think I have a battery issue but wanted to ask the group in case someone ran into this before.
Went to start my truck this morning and did the normal dead battery sound but doesn't have enough power to turn the engine. I can see the engine start to turn but can't get over compression.
So I bought a new Interstate battery from Costco, installed it, and same problem. Hooked up a charger and it showed 25%. Let it charge for 4 hours, now it's at 50% and still won't turn over.
I'm going to wait over night and let it charge, but I wanted to ask the group if there is any known problems (Beyond battery) that would do this.
Prius (Gen 2) :: Power Loss And Low Battery - Cannot Go Faster Than 50 Mph
I have an 07 Prius with 90Kmi (bought new) which now loses power while climbing sections of mtn passes. Battery meter shows 1 purple bar and cannot go faster than 50mph. No warning lights or fault codes. Never an issue before & intermittently happens around town. 4 dealer visits and extended tests with TMC field techs have allowed them to duplicate the problem at least twice. Interestingly Toyota doesn't know what or how to fix this.
View 19 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 F350 Engine Overheating / Battery Went Dead
I have not started my truck for some time (about 3 months) and the battery went dead. I recharged the battery and started her up. I then drove my truck about 5 miles and noticed that the water temp gauge was pegged to overheat...unbelievable! So of course I stopped the truck at the the nearest spot that had a water hose. The water was about 2-3 liters low as I could tell. This should not have caused the engine to overheat though. So what happened here. The engine ran ok back home but now I do not know what to do. Is it an electrical issue where the cooling system has a valve that is signaled electronically to open for the water to flow thru the system??
View 14 RepliesFord Excursion :: 1999 - Dead Battery - No Dome Light - Power Windows Not Working?
On a 1999 Excursion with a v10. I've got a strange problem. When the truck is left overnight, the battery is dead. Doing some testing, the is a serious draw through the dome light circuit that controls the Gem and the Tail Lights. If I pull that fuse each night, then the battery is fine. But I can't leave that fuse out, as the shifter interlock switch is disabled by this fuse. All the tail lights seem to work fine.
Dome lights do not come on. I've tested the bulbs. They're good. There is now power it seems to the dome light sockets. The door ajar light works, so I'm guessing all the switches are good.
I also have no power windows working. There is no 12v to the switch. But I heard about the Gem module as well. So I'm not sure if the Gem controls if there should be 12v to the switch all the time.
I pulled out the Gem. It looks good. No sign of corrosion or water.
Any thoughts on what to look for or how to troubleshoot this? Is there a way to test a Gem? Would a bad Gem cause the battery draw down?
Prius (Gen 3) :: Sudden Power Loss - Battery Didn't Show Very Low
Was sitting in my car on my lunch break playing the radio and had my seat heater on, and all of a sudden my radio kinda went staticy and died and my car completely died. Had to power it back down then back up to get it running, battery didn't show very low, but when I went into start mode (non accessory) it immediatly started the ICE and charged.
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