Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Running Rough - Code P0404 - Black / Whitish Smoke Coming From Tail Pipe

Truck started running rough on way home the other day. First gave me P0404 code and would get black smoke along with whitish smoke coming from the tail pipe. I haven't been able to notice or track an amount of coolant loss yet.

Swapped EGR valve this morning and now noticed this once she kicked into high idle (still warming up). About to hook up the IDS, hoping I this is not head gasket .

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Ford Exhaust :: Black Smoke Out Of Tail Pipes / Check Engine Lights Comes On And Off At Idle

I have recently been getting black smoke out my tailpipes on my 1995 F350 with 7.5L at certain idles and my check engine lights comes on and off, could this be caused from my O2 sensors going bad because of my gutted cats? It seems to be running rich and my idle is way low and at the point to shutting off, prob cuz of overload of fuel...

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1987 - Rough Rolling Idle / Stall Out And A Lot Of White Smoke Out Of Tail Pipe

I have a 87 ranger with a 2.9 and recently it started to act up when i start after its been sitting for a couple hours it has a rough rolling idle and will stall out and a lot of white smoke out the tail pipe and some times a tiny bit of black smoke when revved high....after a about 10 mins of feathering the gas it will even out and runs no problem.... oh and quite a bit of moister comes the tail pipe....and this issue just occurred over night every time before never had an issue like this...

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Grand Prix :: 1998 - No Start / Black Smoke Came Out Of Tail Pipe

Yesterday my car ran fine. Today it started running rough when my wife drove it. When I started it to see what was going on it ran very rough. I gave it a little gas and black smoke came out of the tail pipe and now it will not start. I can hear the fuel pump running when I turn the car on. I have spare at least at the coil pack to the wires. The check engine light is on but I don't have a tool to read it and I can't start it to go get it read.

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Dodge - Grandcaravan :: Black Smoke Ashes Form At The End Of Tail Pipe

There's a black form around the end of my minivan tail pipe. This form is created by smoke, I can have it on my finger if I touch it (like BBQ ashes), is this normal or my minivan running rich? I don't see any black smoke coming out of the tail pipe as it is driving.

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Ford - Escort :: 1987 - Rattle / Shakes And Black Smoke From Tail Pipe

I recently purchased a 87ford escort and I think it may have been sitting for a while but it runs Problem is it jumps rattles shakes while idling same thing when driving but not as bad. I'm hoping it is just in need of tune up but it continues to blow out black smoke from tail pipe,getting oil changed today. Do you think the smoke could mean the rings are bad? Also some times it takes awhile before the car shifts when I am driving till it gets warm.

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Saturn - S-series :: White Smoke Coming From Tail Pipe - Smells Like Something Is Burning / Oil Is Black

I am not sure what is going on with my car. I have a 1998 saturn sc2 and this morning it started smoking from the tailpipe. The oil is black but the smoke smells like something is burning......

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Delayed Acceleration / Black Smoke Will Come Out Of Tail Pipe

After running perfectly fine all day my truck will seem to bog down and when I press the accelerator the reaction is extremely delayed and tons of black smoke will come out of the tail pipe before the truck actually gains power and takes off. The check engine light has been coming on but will turn itself off after the truck has been shutdown a few times....

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Honda - Passport :: 1994 - White Smoke Coming Out Of The Tail Pipe

I've got White smoke coming out of my tail pipe of my 94 Honda Passport and I've checked the oil on it and its not milky like I feared it would be. I had some over heating issues after replacing the water pump and all the timing belts. Ran okay for about 2 days, 30 mile drives those days. Replaced some old hoses but it still overheats. Was told by a friend I could be losing coolant from the old radiator cap, replaced it and now I hear a gurgling outta my reserve coolant whenever I remove the cap; which I've never heard before. I don't know much about cars besides your general oil changes and flat tires.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F550 Turns Over / Black Smoke From Tail Pipe But No Start

Ok I'm working on a 2000 7.3 on a F550 truck was running but had no power so we changed out all the injectors and glow plugs and rebuilt the turbo now there is no start it turns over and were getting black smoke from the tail pipe. What is going on with it?

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4Runner/GX470 :: 1994 - White Puff Of Smoke At The Tail Pipe Every Time On Start

My 1994 4x4 4Runner throws out a white puff of smoke at the tail pipe everytime I start it and sometimes when I'm driving. Just recently, it has no acceleration power what so ever and it can hardly go up a hill.

Is my engine total? Also, I'm leaking alot of steering fluid but, no puddles anywhere.

Is there a connection between the two or is it just time to buy a new car?

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Coolant Sensor Stopped Working / Rough Idle / Black Smoke Out Of Exhaust

I just bought a 2002 v10 crew cab, everything great form the first 3 months, but then my coolant sensor stopped working, changed it, and the same thing! Only works a couple of times, and the truck started to rough idle a little, and now I have black smoke coming out of the exhaust!

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Audi :: 1993 - White Smoke Out Of Tail Pipe When Starting And Runs Really Rough

I have a 1993 Audi 100s 2.8L V6It needs new spark plug wires for sure. However recently when I start it up it has been blowing white smoke out the tail pipe and runs really rough. However once I run her for a while smoke goes away even when heavily accelerating. Also when It runs rough I can smell raw gas. Whats going on to my car?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Smoke From Tail Pipe - Haze At Idle When Engine Is Warm

Have a lot more smoke from the tail pipe when they are running their tow tune vs their street tune? For me it seems like a lot especially right now being cold out but I still notice a haze at idle when the engine is warm. Also can smell a difference.

Getting a ficm tuner from php tomorrow so interested to see what that does for things.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Rough Running Like Missing When Cold / Puffs Of Blue Smoke From Tail Pipe

My truck has been having this issue pretty much since I have had it, but it seems to be getting worse, or so I think.

When the truck is cold, it does not want to move very well. Like it's missing, and it does this until it gets warmer. Also, I have puffs of blue smoke come out the tailpipe when this occurs with it cold.

Injectors? Injector o-rings? Stiction?

FICM volts are good at 46.5v-48v when cranking.

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Steam Out Tail Pipe / Misfire Codes And Rough Idle

Steam out the tail pipe, misfire codes, rough idle. No water in oil, no over heating. Head gasket ??

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Ford Aerostar :: High Idle / Black Smoke From Exhaust And Stalling At Stoplights

1993 3.0 .... My son's van. He complained of fluctuating and mostly high idle, black smoke from exhaust and stalling at stoplights. He has other wheels so I've had it for several months until I could check it.

I started it every few weeks, it started easily. Have not seen smoke but it did idle high and rough. Yesterday I started it to warm it up to finally pull codes. Temp needle barely moved and upper radiator hose did not get very warm but I pulled codes with engine off anyway and got 116, 10, 111.

Today i got a little smarter and noted that the upper hose began to get warm right after startup. Suspecting a bad thermostat I blocked the radiator as well as I could and it warmed up much more, though still not near the middle of the temp gauge. Shut engine off and pulled codes again and this time got 111,10, 111.

With engine running, got 6, only-- and there's no code 6 in the code reader book. Jabbing gas pedal in neutral it nearly dies, jabbing gas in D and it dies and will not restart until cooled down.

Finally, checked again with engine off and got 111, 10, 110, 10. I think the ETC is OK since I didn't get 116 again but it still idles fast, speeds up and down erratically, and dies. Where do I go from here?

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2002 - Started Running Rough / Trying To Stall Out / Black Smoke Coming From Exhaust

2002 Ford Ranger edge 3.0 flex ... Truck was running fine and giving me no issues. I woke for work the other day and went to get coffee and truck wouldnt start. I could hear fuel pump running and knew it wasnt that, it was acting flooded. So today I pulled fuse from fuel pump relay, and got it to start. Put the fuse back in and ran to gas station. On the way to the gas station it started running really rough, very low and rough idle, trying to stall out. I noticed it had black smoke coming from exhaust. I got it home, and got it to start barely, and it has the same very low and rough idle, but my oil gauge was going crazy, flickering back and forth all crazy, and the idol is terribly rough and eventually stalls out. Earlier today I did put new spark plugs in it, but not sure that has anything to do with the issue. I also hooked it up to a computer and it isnt throwing any codes.

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Volvo :: 740 Engine - Rough Idle / Fair Amount Of Carbon At Exhaust Pipe

I've got an '88 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon: 5-speed, 225K miles, that's been acting up over the last year. She doesn't burn oil (qt in 1500 typical) and appears to still be tight. The Turbo works and bearings make no noise. The engine service light does NOT glow (but I admit I haven't checked the bulb). I do have a Haynes manual and have been using it to assist with some results (see replaced items), but I'm not trained on this car and this manual is woefully lacking in good diags for some obvious things. (IMG: [URL] .....)

Symptoms: She cold starts OK, but try to restart warmed at all and she usually has to sit at least an hour or no go. Outside temp seems to make little difference. There's a gassy smell while cranking warm and it's very much like a flooded carburetor engine. Often, the engine will finally catch with the pedal floored after a long crank. Also, after warming and driving a few minutes, the idle erratically will not return to normal, sitting up at 1800-2700 RPM for a bit before finally calming down. It was also running a little rough. There's a fair amount of carbon at the exhaust pipe and MPG is only ~20 and I'm a light foot. The idle RPM varies a bit much moving around between 600-1100 RPM warm.

What I've done this year: It had a broken thermostat (replaced), failing alternator (replaced), failed starter (replaced), failing fuel pump (replaced with filter), recent oil change (has turned black after 800 miles). Most grounds around engine and firewall and 12 volt ignition contacts cleaned. The bat cables were cleaned and terminals coated. Ohm tested the injectors OK (all exactly the same, on spec) and they all "click" in operation. I replaced a bad coil (low ohms by 20% for both primary and 2nd) and changed the carbon fouled plugs (which were also ill-gapped by some hamhand), both of which worked for the roughness considerably. The plug wires all came up roses well under 10k ohms. The battery was a suspect for testing low so much when resting, but the alternator seems to have slowly fixed that (and problems come when system is charging OK). However, the main warm start and idle problem persists. (IMG: [URL] ....)

My next good guess: An obvious rich condition exists and, having eliminated quite a few other things, a sticking "Air Control Valve" seems the likely suspect (some call it an idle control valve but I'm going by the manual). My specific observations of this device: after a warm no start, I pulled the ACV electrical lead and she fired right up and idled well at 16-1800 RPM. I plugged it back in and she chugged and nearly died before idling ~800 RPM. As it idled normally, I pulled the rubber hose from the upstream air connection to the ACV and it chugged and died within 5 seconds. I noted the vacuum was very strong. Putting the hose on, it wouldn't restart till I removed the electrical lead again. The ACV circuit has continuity at the device but I haven't ohm tested it yet. My best diag is the mechanical part of the ACV is gummed up or worn out. The Haynes manual was almost no way in arriving at this conclusion. (IMG: [URL] ....)

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