Prius (2010-12) :: Battery Failed After130000 Km
My prius gen 3 battery failed at 150000km and the other prius gen3 in my city battery failed between 130000 and 180000 km.
View 3 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Code P0A85 - HV Battery Is Overheating
I have a 2006 with 188,000 miles. We replaced the hv battery at 155000 miles. the car has been getting lower mileage than usual, around 36 mpg, we usually get 43 to 45 on the trip to work and back. the red triangle appeared and all the other lights a couple days ago. Borrowed a code reader, not a scan gauge, and the code came up P0a85, and says the HV battery is overheating. I checked the 12v battery and it is low, at 11.7 volts. So I am replacing the 12v battery, should be here in a couple days, already replaced it once, about 4 or 5 years ago.
View 15 RepliesPrius (Gen 3) :: Dash Light Warning Traction Battery Overheating
I've seen lots of posts about the traction battery regarding cooling fan speeds, sensors, overheating, under charged, but is there a dash light that warns the batteries are overheating before they are damaged ? I'm worried about someone riding in the back of the car, covering the vent and causing battery damage. It is hard to see if they are covering the vents when you are sitting in the front driver seat.
View 7 RepliesPrius (Gen 2) :: Fan Not Working / Battery Overheating - Error Code POA85
VSC, ABS triangle warning! Error code POA85 ... We took the car apart and basically found the error with the fan it's not working. When you connect the battery to the fan it's working perfectly. The fan motor resistor is overheating is this the problem? Or should it be very hot.
View 4 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Failed To Crank Twice After Changing Battery
I changed the battery 6 months ago and twice it has failed to crank since. Is there something draining the battery?
View 3 RepliesJeep - Grandcherokee :: 2000 - Battery Failed / Clicking Wouldn't Stop When Key Turned On
I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee (115,000) and a 15 month old battery that failed. Gauges read fine, but when I tried to start car when key turned, it was clicking. I turned key off, it kept clicking. I took key out of ignition and it continued to click for about 15+ minutes. During this time I stuck key back in and turned key on (all while still clicking) and my needles on gauges were going crazy back and forth. When I turned the key as if to start, the needles on the gauges went BEYOND their normal scope. Almost a Linda Blair effect. Battery was replaced, alternator check was good and it started up perfectly and immediately. Now, a few days later, it labors a bit before starting. How do I diagnose and electrical problem? By the way, the gauges all the while read straight up and down normal.
View 1 RepliesPrius (Gen 3) :: 2011 - Dead 12 Volt Battery After ECU Update
I got the ECU Update Friday.. Today my 12 volt battery died. (got it started after a jump)..Any correlation?? Toyota service days no. Is there any kind of a warranty on the 12 V battery? 2011 with about 40k on it seems way low for the battery to die. No changes in driving habits since ECU update either...
View 7 RepliesPrius (Gen 3) :: 2011 - Smart Key (FOB) Is Not Functional After Replacing Battery
2011 Toyota Prius Two, not II,smart key device (FOB) is not funational (can not open doors, etc) after replacing battery, and now how to fix, re-sync, etc?
View 17 RepliesPrius (Gen 1) :: 2011 Getting Triangle And Main Battery Error On MFD / P3030 / P3000
2001 Prius
I was able to pull codes this evening ( no subcodes).
The codes are as follows:
P3000, Battery Control System Malfunction
P3030, Battery Voltage Detective Line Snapped
Will the P3030 cause a P3000 to pop up since it appears I have one of the 19 voltage detect lines corroded or broken?
Once I fix this issue, is there a chance that the P3000 will disappear?
I was just getting the triangle and the Main Battery error on the MFD up until yesterday. Yesterday, the ! with the car came on (Hybrid system) on the MFD. I did not check any codes until today. Car will currently not start at all.
Aux battery voltage is confirmed to be 12.3 volts via the MFD in the diagnostic mode so it's good to go.
No one around has a scan tool that will also pull the subcodes.
Prius (2010-12) Fuel :: 2011 - Getting 40 Mpg Max At 107K Miles - New Battery / Plugs?
We just bought a 2011 and are only getting 40 mpg max. I wonder if the 110 Arizona summer heat has something to do with it. Pretty bummed. I have read 50 with careful driving is normal? I let bicycles outrun me? 12 volt battery? New plugs? It has 107,000.
View 19 RepliesFord F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Hooked Battery After Magnaflow Exhaust Now Battery Light On?
Unhooked battery on 2011 truck. I unhooked mine today then installed my magnaflow exhaust. then i hooked the battery back up. And now my battery light comes on when i turn the key ahead. my sync doesn't work, i push the button and it won't say listening. and when i turn the key off the stereo won't stay on, it says it's shutting the system down to save the battery. i am going to take it in on monday to see if they can fix it. i just hope it isn't my fault. Any certain way of disconnecting it.
View 14 RepliesSonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Overheating Every Once In A While At Idle?
I have a 2011 sonata gls that seems to overheat every once in a while. it happened first after a 2 hour cruise on the insterstate (rally so i exceeded 120 and averaged +85mph) after we parked and we started up to go to the next stage i noticed my temp was at 2 o'clock (this is after the car had been sitting for 30min or so, off) and while sitting at a long red light it went all the way to right (hot) so i turned my a/c off and eventually turned my car off to prevent damage (it returned to normal after a minute of interstate driving). Since then it seems to overheat when idling after driving it hard.
I noticed my radiator fan doesn't turn on normally but haven't checked it when the engine was above normal temp, when should our fans turn on (so i can check if it doesn't work)? I have 1200 miles left on warranty so I want to use it up if possible...
Prius (Gen 1) :: 2002 / Second Catalytic Converter Has Failed
I have a 2002 Toyota Prius that is currently in limp mode...
Took it to the dealer for diagnostics and they said the Catalytic Converter has failed...So I went online, bought a new one and replaced it. The symptoms prior the Cat replacement were still there...mpg loss, power loss, and exhaust air was not exiting the end of the pipe but actually leaking out the connection point where the Cat and the manifold met.
Prius (Gen 2) :: Both Locks On Driver Side Failed To Unlock
2008 Prius, both locks on drivers side failed simultaneously. This was out of the blue. Worked in the morning, and failed in the afternoon and have been feeling ever since. Smart key will not unlock anything. Using the button on the inside of the door only unlocks the passenger side front and rear. In order to unlock the driver side front and rear you have to manually unlock them or lock them. When the button is pressed to unlock the doors, I hear no attempt by the actuators to move. What is causing this? I thought maybe a fuse, but the fuses seem to run all four doors. Could it be a loose wire?
View 5 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: AC Blower Intermittently Failed To Start Up
I've got a 2005 with almost 300,000 miles and just recently the A/C blower has intermittently failed to start up. However, if I give the console a smack on the driver's side of the nav screen the unit usually starts up.
Now, I am assuming it is the start of an electric motor failure in the A/C Blower unit, however, the blower is apparently located under the passenger side glove box. So I am wondering if that is whee the blower is why does smaking the driver side of the nav screen start up the motor?
Prius (2004-09) :: Brake Actuator And Solenoid Failed
The dealer told me my actuator and solenoid failed. I have a 2009 and less than 60,000 miles. I believe there is something wrong with those parts and they shouldn't fail at two years old. What do you all know about this?
View 19 RepliesMetro :: Battery Light Came On And Engine Overheating After Transmission Serviced
I have a 97 GEO Metro LSI (1.3 liter 4 cyl.) A/T w/ AC. Recently serviced the Transmission (i.e. dropped the pan, replaced filter etc..) and put new fluid in. Shortly after this, the battery light came on and the car began overheating. The vehicle is losing zero coolant/water. Dunno if the transmission service is related but mentioned it since it was so close in time to the current problem. Here is what I've done since.
~Replaced Thermostat (no result)
~Noticed that the Electric Fan Motor in front of AC is not working
~Replaced Fan Motor Relay (no result)
~Direct wired the Electric Fan Motor (AC) to battery.. IT Worked!!! and the car does not overheat HOWEVER, now the batter drains quickly and the AC blower is running 50% at full speed. As soon as I disconnect my direct wire.. the AC blows full on again but naturally the Electric Fan does not work
How to approach this problem?????
Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: 2.4L Engine Overheating / Red Warning Sign
This happened all of a sudden today, engine i think is getting overheated. Like in the image below i see the red warning sign and temperature meter is all the way to "H". Well it keeps fluctuating. So i checked coolant oil and found it was empty so re-filled it beyond 'F' and i think it spilled it and was empty again. So this time i refilled the coolant oil up to 'F' and it stayed. But engine won't stop getting hot(i just did a couple miles after the second refill).
There is another problem with the air condition. IT blows cold air sometimes and normal air sometimes. Looks the compressor is turning off(i am really not sure). IS there a chance of any loose connection at the compressor ? If the freon is empty it should blow normal air continuously but it's not doing that. It keeps switching.
Prius (2010-12) :: Pump Auto Shut Off Failed To Work
The scenario: I recently filled up at a station that, according to the attendant, had just lost electrical power but power had been restored. The pump was flowing agonizingly slowly, so I asked the attendant what was up, and he said the system needed 20 minutes or so to reboot before the pumps would flow at the normal rate--sounds kind of specious to me, but I was in no hurry, so I figured so what, I'd wait it out.
Well, eventually the tank filled up, and then some. The pump's auto-shutoff failed to work (my guess is that the flow rate was so slow that the back pressure failed to build up to the point to trigger it, but, whatever...). Gas was dripping everywhere by the time I noticed it (since it was taking so long, I wasn't paying close attention).