Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Comparing The Various 3RX Models?
5 Reasons to Drive the 2013 Lexus RX350
by Michael Waterman
2013 Lexus RX350
The Lexus RX 350 dominates the luxury crossover category with more than 1 million sales since 2002. But it has an Achilles' heel: men aren't completely sold.
Wives, girlfriends, daughters and grandmothers adore the car. Testosterone-driven men, not as much, though they still buy plenty of standard RX vehicles each year.
How does Lexus attract more men to showrooms? Make the RX more masculine. In other words, offer the Lexus RX 350 F Sport.
Does the strategy work? Let's find out by exploring five reasons to drive the 2013 Lexus RX 350 F Sport.
Reason #1: Looks Matter
The quick summary of this luxury crossover is that the difference between the regular Lexus RX 350 and the F Sport model is largely cosmetic.The standard spindle grille is mesh on the F Sport. The 19-inch alloy wheels are blacked-out in a dark graphite finish. The seats and interior are decked out in black. The brake and gas pedals are aluminum to create a sporty look.
F Sport badging is visible outside the car and on the steering wheel. And reach behind the steering wheel and you'll find paddle shifters, the first ever in an RX model.Those elements speak a performance design language that will whisper, "buy me" to a segment of performance-minded RX buyers.
Reason #2: Same Engine, Different Transmission
Surprisingly, the RX 350 F Sport uses the same 3.5-liter V6 engine as the standard RX 350. This engine generates 270 horsepower and 248 pound-feet of torque.It's not wicked fast, nor is it particularly slow.Here's the big difference: the RX 350 F Sport has an 8-speed transmission instead of the standard six-speed of the regular RX 350 model.The F Sport also comes standard with all-wheel drive. The regular RX 350 starts with front-wheel drive and offers all-wheel drive as an upgrade. Strong roadside grip is standard with the F Sport's AWD system. But it doesn't make the car feel particularly sporty. At least no sportier than the standard RX 350 with all-wheel drive.Lexus reports the RX 350 will move from zero to 60 in about 7.7 seconds. That's not fast. But it's fast enough to comfortably move with ease on the freeway.Fuel economy is the same as the standard model, too, with a combined city and highway average of 21 mpg. In mostly freeway driving on a long road trip, I averaged 24 mpg, short of the 26-mpg highway average.
Reason #3: A Firmer Ride Conveys More Sporty Feeling
The biggest driving difference between the standard RX 350 and the RX 350 F Sport is the tighter suspension tuning on the latter model.Shocks are firmer. Potholes hit harder. The ride is rougher.For some buyers, that firm ride translates into what they've trained their brains to believe is a sporty experience.Other buyers may wince and wonder where the soft, comforting ride of the standard RX 350 has gone.Where the Lexus GS 350 F Sport delivers on its sporty promise with a more engaging driving experience, the RX 350 F Sport feels more like a bumpy ride in a standard RX model. Test-drive both models one after the other to decide which driving experience appeals most to you.Paddle shifters also offer the promise of a more sporty experience. They work well but after driving more than 800 miles in the RX 350 F Sport, I rarely felt the need or desire to use them.
Reason #4: Lexus RX Is A Top Safety Pick
Top safety scores are one reason why the Lexus RX models continue to sell at a rapid clip. The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety named the Lexus RX a 2013 Top Safety Pick due to its top scores in front, side, rollover and rear crash tests.Whether you choose the standard RX 350, the fuel-efficient hybrid RX 450h or the performance-styled RX 350 F Sport, you can feel confident that you and your passengers are well protected in a collision.
Reason #5: Recommended by Consumer Reports
The top reason many buyers choose Lexus is for the brand's outstanding reliability ratings. In our highly programmed lives, most of us no longer have time to waste sending vehicles back and forth to a mechanic's shop.Consumer Reports predicts the 2013 RX models will deliver better-than-average reliability and bestowed its coveted Recommended rating on the vehicle.If you pay more than $40,000 for a vehicle, one would hope that vehicle delivers outstanding dependability today and in the future. On this count, Lexus delivers big time.
An Interesting RX Alternative I've had the chance to drive all three Lexus RX models over the past few months. If money were no object, I would choose the RX 450h for its class-leading fuel-efficiency and stylish, upgraded cabin. However, my well-optioned test model topped $64,000.
If I were counting pennies (and what Lexus owner really counts pennies?), I would choose the standard RX 350 for its satisfying mix of luxury and performance and more affordable $40,000 base price.
The last model I would buy is the F Sport. My well-optioned and attractive model had a sticker price just under $54,000. The aesthetics and butch features look good. The eight-speed transmission is smooth and works well. But ultimately, the F Sport model just isn't worth the price premium it commands.
That's not an indictment on the F Sport model as much as a statement about how good the standard RX 350 is.
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Prius Plug-in 2012-15 :: Comparing With Lexus ES 300h
As other manufacturers match up with the Prius, it is interesting to see how this affects purchasing decisions.
The 2013 Prius Plug-in Advanced lists for $40,320:
It gets 95 MPGe for its 11 miles of battery power and 50 MPG in hybrid mode. The engine has 138 total horsepower = 98 HP Gas + 78 HP Electric engine 0-60 MPH is 10.6 seconds.
The 2013 Lexus ES 300h Hybrid lists for $39,725:
It gets 40 MPG city, 39 MPG highway, 40 MPG combined. The engine has 200 total horsepower = 150 HP Gas + 141 HP Electric engine. 0-60 MPH is 7.6 seconds. Top speed is 112 MPH.
Lexus dealerships will give you a free loaner Lexus while your car is in for maintenance or repair. Lexus mechanics are also sticklers for perfection. (After tune-ups, the car simply feels brand new - owning 5 Lexus cars myself).
Passat (B7) :: Comparing 3.6L With 1.8 Jetta
I'm considering moving from a 1.8T Jetta to a 3.6L Passat. I know my Jetta had several generational problems, but mine, in particular, seemed to have most things sorted by the time I bought it in 2004. Are there any glaring problems with the 3.6L or the B7 Passat in general?
I don't mind doing spark plugs, oil and replacing a pipe now and then, but something like broken engine internals or premature rust would give me pause.
Phaeton :: 2004 V8 Vs Infiniti M45 - Comparing?
I've had my Phaeton for about six weeks now, and I thought it would be interesting to compare it to the car I switched from:
The Infiniti M45 was the marque's second-best car available in 2004. Really, the only things it lacked from the Q45 flagship were a rear sunshade, backup camera, and electronic suspension. It had the same 340HP V8 VK45DE engine but weighed about 1000 lbs less. It's been pegged by Jalopnik as a future classic and it's one of the best cars I have ever been in, and certainly the best I've ever personally owned before the Phaeton. The most apt description I've heard is "Japanese muscle car" and I completely agree; Nissan even made a goofy video to that effect starring Chris Mulkey from Twin Peaks.
The car also probably matches the Phaeton in terms of rarity, if not being even more rare. It was sold for only two years, had less than 8,000 imported, and has an understated but unique look.
Here's how I think they stack up:
- Cooled seats: M stomps the Phaeton here. From what I know the VW system just recirculates cabin air through the seat; this appears accurate from when I've had the seat apart. The Infiniti system actually has a cooling element within the seat to further cool the air. The end result is leather that actually feels cool to the touch and makes hot interiors bearable more quickly.
- Rest of the seating: The M featured an exclusive grade of Japanese leather which is both comfortable and durable. However, VW's "comfort leather" is definitely softer (though I worry about marring it) and you can't beat 18-way adjustability. The M seats are more supportive with better bolsters, fitting its more sporting nature, but the Phaeton is definitely the winner in comfort and personalization.
- Driveline: No one buys a Phaeton to race, but the M really shines here. It's been timed at around 5.6 seconds for the 0 to 60 MPH sprint and if you've ever driven one it seems believable. This makes it quite fun as most people see it and assume it to be a "grandpa car;" they're in for a surprise when you floor it and the dual-stage exhaust opens up. Plus, I absolutely love RWD cars. The Phaeton will keep me safe and sound through winters in the mountains, but little else puts a smile on my face like flooring it through a turn and feeling the rear end begin to break loose. Just can't do that with AWD. It also gets a couple MPG better fuel economy. Add in Nissan's version of Servotronic and this was a car that begged to be driven, and driven hard.
- Gadgets: This one is probably a tie. The Phaeton has so many little things: the vent covers, the rear headrests, the self-folding mirrors, heated steering wheel, etc. There's all kinds of things to show passengers and discover when new. However, the M had a number of features that my Phaeton lacks; some were available as options from VW and some weren't. For instance, the M had a voice recognition system to control climate, stereo, and navigation systems. It also had a radar-controlled "Intelligent Cruise Control" shared with its big brother, the Q. The navigation system was DVD-based, which means no disc-swapping or slow reads, and satellite radio was an available option. I also don't understand why the Phaeton's easy entry function doesn't move the seat; the M would move the seat when getting out and in as well as the steering wheel. For me, I feel that the Phaeton has lots of subtle features that bring a smile, but the M had more features that I actually used and got benefit out of.
- Ride quality and sound level: Without question, the Phaeton is the winner. The M makes for a great highway cruiser, though it's ride is a bit stiffer and can't be adjusted. It's by no means bad, but nothing can compete with the silence of the Phaeton cabin and the stability of the 'Comfort' suspension setting. There's just no contest.
- Fit and finish: Again the Phaeton pulls ahead. The M features birds-eye maple trim throughout and high quality leather upholstery, but the rich finish of the eucalyptus in the Phaeton and the buttery smooth feel of the Vienna leather are unbeatable. The M was by no means cheap, but the Phaeton is of course in a class of its own.
- Roominess: I don't know why, but the M actually had its fuel tank in the trunk. This meant no pass-through between the rear seats and a disappointingly small trunk. It was also large by Japanese standards but at 6' 1" my head just grazed the roof, and this when I had the seat adjusted as low as possible. Plus, I could hold a conference in the back of the Phaeton if I so desired.
I hope no one thinks I'm picking on the Phaeton; I just think it's fascinating to compare what different manufacturers were doing in their best vehicles at the same time. As my signature belies I enjoy Nissan vehicles, and I would personally pull the trigger on an Infiniti before any Acura or even Lexus (I thought the LS 430 was a huge let-down after all the hype when I finally drove one).
The Phaeton was without question an upgrade, but there will always be a special place in my heart and wistful pangs for the M45 (more pics of mine).
What other cars have you all owned and loved?
Tiguan :: Comparing 2016 R With Other Brands
I fell in love with the 2016 Tiguan R... until I found out about the new upcoming 2017 model. I'm now in love with the 2017 and want no part in the 2016.
On the other hand, it looks like I'll have to wait more than a year for the 2017 to come out in the U.S., so I was wondering what you guys were considering when you ultimately decided on your Tiguan. Here's a list of what I considered, but haven't really found a great alternative for me.
Subaru Forester - I like the 2.0XT model but kind of pricey and interior is very bland. Probably the one I considered the most though.
Subaru Outback - prefer the boxier look of the forester. Too boring.
Mazda CX-5 - pretty good option and great price for grand touring, but not a fan of the new Mazda styling.
Honda CR-V - way too common and bland.
Ford Escape - not a fan of the styling and of ford in general.
Acura RDX - not bad but crazy styling and too expensive.
Audi Q3, BMW X3, MB GLK and GLA: too expensive and don't want the luxury badge anyway. Same with the crossovers from Lexus and Infiniti.
What are the best competitors that I'm missing?!
Nissan - 350Z :: Comparing With Mitsubishi Eclipse
I am thinking of buying a car but can't decide between a 2003 Nissan 350Z with 87000 miles on it, or a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse with 57000 miles on it. It will be a commuter car for me. I don't know a lot about Mitsubishis.
View 8 RepliesCamry :: Comparing Model 2009 With 2007
I bailed on 2012 as I didn't want to make any payments and figure prices will go down once 2014 hit the market. SOOOO I am looking at
2007 black on black Toyota Camry SE leather 86,000 km OR
2009 white SE 102,000 km. leather SE with navi for 14,500 plus taxes. (12% whatever that is)
I have seen cheaper but I don't want grey. I love black so i'm jammed.
Nissan - Juke :: Comparing 2002 Pathfinder With 2006
I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder and I love it. I bought it in 2006 and it has 156,000 miles on it. I am ready for something and here are the options. Buy another 2002 with low mileage for all the reasons you all know about that year and the 2003.Just great years. I have found a couple with mileage around 75,000 for around 8,500. My daughter wants my car and I am going to have a tune up done on it for her. Nothing wrong with it at all, Or get for me a 2011 Juke. I don't know why but I love that car. Been told I won't get much better gas mileage unless it stays in the eco mode. I can pay cash for the Pathfinder. Will have to finance the Juke. Makes me nervous that it's sort of new but I have heard from those who know that it's a good car.
View 14 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: 2010 - AC Works Sporadically
I have a 2010 Subaru Forester 2.5x, and I've been struggling with the air conditioner for over a year.
The AC works amazingly when the car has been shaded / in a garage (even if the garage is not air conditioned - so the garage temp is probably still 90 degrees). The problem is when I've parked the car outside in a sunny area. Then, it takes about 25 minutes for the AC to blow cold air consistently. In this case, the fan w blow hot air with tiny spurts of cool-ish air, but nothing that meaningfully cools my car. I live in Texas, so the car is HOT; I'm not expecting instantaneous cooling, but after 3-5 minutes of driving, I would hope it would be getting cooler in the car.
I park in full sun at work, and then drive to pick my kids up from daycare. The car is hot and stays hot until we are home. Of course, I roll down the windows, but I'm always pulling the kids out of the car sweaty and overheated. Lately, it's turned super-warm, so this is getting more miserable and dangerous for the kids.
Coolant was replaced seven months ago with little effect. What could be causing this, although I suspect it's something related to overheating / a sensor or thermostat since it only happens when the car has been parked in the sun. Internet sleuthing reveals everything from o-rings, compressor, compressor clutch, oiling the bearings or clutch plate, cylinder head gasket, etc.
Subaru - Legacy :: 2010 - Smell Like Oil Burning
My 2010 Subaru Legacy has been leaking oil since the last oil change, and also smelling like burning oil. I took it back to the mechanics, and they told me something about oil pooling from previous oil changes into the splash pan, soaking into the foam in or around the splash pan, and the foam got so saturated that it is now dripping oil. The good news: no new leak, only a residual leak.They cleaned it up, replaced the foam, and topped me off-no charge.
My questions: Does this sound right/common? Or are my mechanics sloppy to be saturating foam in or around the splash pan? And is the burning oil smell related to all this splashing and pooling oil? This is the third oil change related issue I've had with them. First they didn't fill my oil to the appropriate fill line (I believe they over-filled
Then the next time they did not tighten my oil cap enough, which caused oil to spill and burn, and they couldn't diagnose the issue (I took it in complaining of the smell of something burning-almost like plastic burning, and they looked at me like I was crazy, and told me they couldn't smell anything burning. Getting it fixed took a chance encounter with a different mechanic, and he knew what it was by smell! Now I do, too).
Subaru - Forester :: 2010 - AC Seems To Function Quietly And Normally But Isn't Cooling Very Well
My AC seems to function quietly and normally. The compressor kicks on and off like it should, the low side pressure is normal and the cores are clean. It all seems to work just fine. But, on a hot day (80+), the air being forced out inside just doesn't feel very cool, unless I'm sitting in a shaded place, when it's noticeably cooler (about like it should -normally- be). I starting noticing this difference about a month ago when the temperature started getting near 90 and seems to have gotten slowly worse. I bought the SUV 20 months ago as a Subaru Certified Used Vehicle and it's now out of warranty with 62K miles on it and is otherwise in overall excellent condition. Why it's not blowing snow, well maybe not snow, but COOL air?
View 7 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: 2010 Keeps Blowing Fan Fuses And Overheats
Several weeks ago, my wife drove our Outback for 10 minutes, turned the car off, then turned it back on after 10 minutes. After 15 minutes of its being on the second time and the car being in a car line, the red temperature indicator blinked, then went solid. She pulled over to let it cool, then put coolant in the overflow reservoir when she got home. The reservoir was nearly empty. The very next day, the exact same thing happened, in the exact same sequence - 10 minutes on, 10 off, 15 minutes on in a car line, then indicator came on again.
I took it to a mechanic who could not reproduce the issue after letting it run for four hours. He replaced the fuses and told us to bring him the car when the problem recurred. Reservoir tank is full, no blockage in line from radiator to overflow tank.
The next day, for a third time, the car overheated in the pickup line. We brought it in the following day. The mechanic finally was able to reproduce the issue. He said that both fans (a subi outback has two) needed to be replaced, as they were drawing a tremendous amount. He advised that I take it to subaru to find out if there was anything they could do re: warranty.
I took it to subaru, who said that the fans are not now under warranty (we have 65k on the car). I decided to have them replace the fans anyway, so I asked them for a diagnosis. However, after two days in the shop, they were unable to reproduce the problem. They ran the car in idle, they tried to recreate the stop-and-go/standstill environment of a carline, but no luck. They said that the fans were drawing the expected amount and that they would need recreate in order to diagnose.
I have two questions:
1) Should I replace the fans myself? I can either take the car back to the first mechanic and have him replace the fans or I can do it myself. I can do basic jobs like oil changes, replacing serpentine belts, but I'm not sure what nuances are involved with replacing anything electrical.
2) Most importantly: What would cause both fans in a relatively young subi to spike their amperage draw intermittently? I guess it's possible that i just got two bad fans, but that doesn't seem to be a common problem with this model. So, I want to make sure that this issue is not indicative of some other underlying problem.
Subaru - Forester :: 2010 - Losing Engine Coolant
With a cold engine in my 2010 Forester (29,000 miles), the coolant level has dropped from "full" to "low" in the overflow reservoir over the last 8 months or so. The level was down at that time (8 mos. back) and I topped it off. There is no obvious coolant puddle on the driveway. There is a gurgling sound at tailpipes and the exhaust is very wet. I'm worried there is a cooling system leak into the engine. Overall I have not been happy with the service dept. at my dealer (bought the car used from him) and wondering if this is the type of diagnosis and repair that an independent shop could handle.
View 17 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: 2010 - Repeatedly Locks Without Being Prompted By Fob After Parking
My 2010 Forester will randomly lock/make the armed confirmation sound after I park, remove my keys and exit the vehicle. I have a head light out (right hand) and have seen that is a common factor in similar problems. Could this be the source of my issue? I have unhooked the battery and it stopped after I hooked it back up. The problem returns days later. I couldn't find ant blown fuses.
View 4 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: 2010 - Passenger Airbag Cycles On - Off While Driving
We have a new 2010 Subaru Outback and all is well except an issue with the passenger airbag. It cycles ON -OFF - ON - OFF - - - while driving. The Subaru dealer has checked it twice & says it is properly operating. We contacted Subaru, they contacted the dealer and responded, per dealer it is OK. The cycling makes us uncomfortable with the saftey of the system. She weighs right at 100 Lbs, if we hit a bump in the road the airbag status changes, if she shifts her position in the seat the status changes, it may change without any outside influence, etc. If it would maintain it's status it would seem more reliable.
View 4 RepliesSubaru - Forester :: 2010 - Brake Light Stays On When Car Is Cold
OK, so I have a 2010 Subee, 36K miles. Three events here, added in car monitoring from State Farm for Ins Discount, had a nail in back tire which I had repaired, it's been pretty cold at night here in GA. When I start the car, both the cold engine and the brake light are lit. Cold engine normal, takes it a few minutes then it goes out. Brake light is staying on until the car drives a bit (maybe 10 minutes?). No odd brake noises, brakes feel fine, emergency brake fully released. Recently had fluids checked and oil changed at Jiffy Lube. Have had the car for 3 years, this is new. It didn't do it last winter. So - do I need to go to the dealership? A brake place? Check the brake fluid.
View 3 RepliesSubaru - Legacy :: 2010 - Harman Kardon Stereo / Audio Started To Cut Out Or Stutter
I have a 2010 legacy that I bought roughly three months ago. About two months ago the audio (cd, aux, fm/am, Bluetooth) started to cut out or stutter. I would turn the car off and come back a few hours later and start it back up and it was back to normal. Over time it has become worse to where after sitting over night the audio won't work when I start it back up. The display on the stereo works. I picked up a stereo from the wrecking yard, same model, and the issue was the same... The display worked but not the audio. I took it in to the Subaru dealership and the mechanic diagnosed it as a bad stereo (this was before I picked up a replacement stereo from the wrecking yard). My thought was that the amp was the culprit.
View 3 RepliesSubaru - Legacy :: 2010 - Passenger Seat Ceased To Move Forward And Backward
Just a few days back, the front passenger seat of my 2010 Legacy ceased to move forward and backward. So no one can feasibly sit in the front when I'm driving unless under 5' tall. The lumbar and seat back motors seem to be working just fine, so just the back and forward function/motor is dead. I initially thought something was stuck in the tracks that hold the seat in, but checked all of that out and nada. The motor makes no sound or vibration. I'm also surprised the seat mechanism seems to be broken in a 4-yr-old car with low mileage.
View 4 RepliesSubaru - Brakes :: 2010 - Ping Sound Coming From The Rear Driver Side Wheel
I have noticed only recently a strange "ping" sound that is coming from the rear driver side wheel. The sound is exactly what two pieces of rebar sound like hitting together. The car only makes the sound once while slowing down at around 3mph and once again while accelerating at the same speed. The should can not be heard under heavy breaking however. I have jacked the car up and pushed on the wheel at 12 and 6 oclock and 3 and 9 oclock to see if it was a bad wheel bearing and it was not. It is a 2010 Subaru STI with 45000 miles. I am wondering what this could be.
View 5 Replies