Honda - Accord :: Banging Noise When Drive Or Accelerate In Neutral
I have a 2002 honda accord I4 coupe (ULEV edition) with a peculiar problem. The problem is that the pistons are pushing down too hard on the connecting rod/crank shaft bearings (creating a banging noise when I drive or accelerate in neutral). It could be a timing issue (spark igniting too early?) but the check engine light is not on.
I have had a mechanic look at the engine and they have determined that
1) Oil pressure is normal
2) Bearing clearance is good (meets specification)
3) Cam timing is good.
4) Balance shaft clearance is good
5) Thrust clearance is good
The mechanics are not sure what is causing the problem. What else to check? Seafoam was added to the gas tank weeks before the problem surfaced. Could the car's computer be damaged?
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Banging Gears - While Shifitng From Park Into Reverse / Drive Whole Car Jerks
I have a 2001 vr6 Jetta automatic transmission. When I shift my car from park into to reverse or drive the whole car jerks as if it's banging into gears. But while driving it drives normal. When I stop and accelerate I feel the same jerking you would say.
View 5 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Leaking Roof Caused Warning Lights Lit Up
Just back from dealer. Been having red triangle and assorted warning lights come on. Diagnosed as above. Been sent to body shop to have them find leak and repair. Electrics 2007 .
View 2 RepliesGolf V R32 :: Moon Roof Buffeting Sound When Drive Over 45 Mph
My car (#3325) is about two weeks old. When I drive over 45mph with the moon roof open there is a very noticeable buffeting sound. It's so strong the headliner vibrates.
View 24 RepliesPassat (B6) :: Roof Lining Squeaking When Drive Over Textured Surfaces
Lately my roof lining has been 'squeaking' when I drive over textured surfaces. I previously reported to the dealer as a sunroof issue but now I detect that it's coming from the headliner behind the sunroof. It seems that the lining is loose. How I should approach the dealer to explain this? Am I using the right jargon? All my rattles have been eliminated bar this one and it drives me nuts!
View 24 RepliesPrius (2010-12) :: Clunking / Banging Noise When Starting
Yesterday I started my 2011 Prius, about 3 seconds later (Im guessing here) I pushed the A/C button, the engine started (at the same time), and I got this horrible grinding, clunking, bucking noise from under the hood. It lasted for about 5 seconds then stopped and everything was fine. Engine ran smooth, A/C was running. I turned off the A/C thinking that might be it and started it again, again everything ran smoothly. I pushed the start button the shut down the car, waited about 15 seconds, pushed it again, all normal, again with the A/C on. I put into drive and moved forward, allowed the engine to start, no problems. Smooth operation, everything normal.
I gather it'd be a good idea to take it in, but want to know how many "on-off cycles" until a problem is erased from memory. I did drive it last night (everything ran just fine) and went through 3 "cycles". What this could be? Bad fuel?? I have a 2011, with about 38k miles on it. This is the second Prius I've owned and have never had a problem before, let alone something like this.
Prius (Gen 3) :: Toyota 2010 Makes Banging Noise And Vibrates Whole Car When Accelerate
I have recently noticed that when I accelerate my Toyota Prius 2010 it makes rattle noise and vibrates the whole car. The weird "bang" "bang" noise comes from the passenger side near the engine and when the noise comes my whole car shakes like crazy!
I went to my local car mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong with it accept the EGR valve which I have now replaced. However, the problem still continues. When I shut down my car and then restart it its fine for some time and then the problem repeats!
It sounds like this .....
Prius (2010-12) :: Banging Sound Coming From Front End On Driver Side
My wife has a 13 Prius persona. There is a rattling/banging sound coming from the front end on drivers side only. Car has not been in any accident. Toyota dealer has looked at it twice. First time could not hear noise. Second, he heard it. They looked at everything and then stated that it was the ABS Brakes testing. It sounds like something is loose- that is the best way to describe the noise. It happens fairly often, too. Never happened with my 2012 Prius model two when we had it.
View 3 RepliesFord - Mountaineer :: 2004 - Loud Banging Noise Coming From The Engine Compartment
I have an 04 mountaineer and when i shut it of i get a loud banging noise from it. Its sounds like its coming from the engine compartment. The truck itself runs great and I didn't see any exhaust leaks. It has 70,000 on it.
View 2 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 FX4 - Hesitate With A Slight Banging Occurs While Coasting Up To 50 - 55 MPH
I've began noticing about 2 - 3 months ago that while coasting up to 50-55 mph my truck begins to hesitate with a slight banging when it occurs. At first I was worried it may have been transmission, but once I talked to ford mechanics, they reassured me it was not, especially at 85,000 miles. I then noticed that taking it out of overdrive prevents the problem. It doesn't act up unless I am on the highway between 50 and 60 mph. It seems to progressively get a little worse and occasionally I can feel a jolt, as if it's struggling to shift into OD. What the problem could be? 2006 F-150 FX4 ...
View 4 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Car Does Not Stay In Drive
We know that a problem can arise in shifting the car into D if the brake is not depressed enough, or the sensor monitoring brake pressure is malfunctioning.
A similar -- but different -- symptom of having trouble shifting gears occurs when the gear shift lever is not working. Patrick Wong reported this problem, and noted that the lever stayed in the wrong place.
My car had a gear shift problem today, and I wonder if I am seeing something new. I started the car, and shifted into D. I saw on the display that the D was selected, but when I took my foot off the brake the display shifted back into N, and pressing the fuel pedal had no effect. If I remember correctly, the ICE did not rev. The problem resolved itself after a couple of tries shifting into D. My last attempt that worked happened when I moved the lever to D and held it there a few seconds.
Later that same drive, I drove in reverse a bit, and then was unable to shift into D and stay there. The gear shifted back into N on the display after I selected D. I am uncertain if the shift back happened when I lifted my foot from the brake, or when I pressed on the fuel pedal, but I think the latter. I'm pretty sure the car was functionally really in N, because it rolled backwards on the incline I was on when I took my foot off the brake. My earlier success by holding the gear shift lever a few seconds did not work, but the problem resolved itself by powering down and restarting the car. Parenthetically, since searching for answers tonight on the forum, I now know from John1701 that I can 'soft' reset the gear shift software by holding down the PARK button for a few seconds.
Prius (2004-09) :: Jolting When ICE Is On And Going From Drive To Park
My Prius has been jolting when the ICE is on and going from drive to park. It almost seems like the ICE is trying to turn off but does not and it jolts the car as a result.
Is this normal? It also jolts sometimes when the ICE is on and when going from park to drive. The ICE remains on although it almost "jumps" or "jolts." I have not noticed it before, and it only happened intermittently at first, although now it does it most of the time. It does not really have a noise associated although it is mostly a "jump" by the car.
Prius (2004-09) :: Why Not Drive On Neutral Gear
I wonder what's the difference between Stealth (no arrow on display at all) and Neutral Gear? The reason I ask is, Neutral Gear is much easier to maintain than Stealth.
Also, when I break moderately hard, it seems like the CVT gear is put to low, so for every yard I travel, more rotation on charging motor. Since Toyota did a great job on transition between regeneration and brake pads, I can't tell when brake pads start to work. Any indications?
Prius (2004-09) :: Cannot Get To Shift Into Reverse Or Drive
Ok first off I am a used car dealer and have sold 20 plus gen IIs and never had to replace the main Hybrid battery pack... until this one! after i replaced it with a used one every thing seemed to be fine, I drove the car for a while the check engine light went off(the reason we knew the battery pack was bad) and after a few miles of driving the red triangle light went off.. yea! I think im done so we put all the carpet and rear seats back in and i get in it to start it and put it on the lot and it will not go into gear or start. all the dash lights come on and will go into neutral when i push the brake but just will not go into drive or neutral.
Here are some things we already tried:
1. put the original battery back in the car- no change
2. put our jump box to the small battery-no change
3. checked the brake lights they are coming on when i push the brake
4. put the scanner on the obdII- no codes
The car is an 06 with 200k miles in very good shape. Could it be in the shifter and not related to the battery change out?
Prius (2004-09) :: Starts But Won't Go Into Drive Or Reverse
I have a 2005 Prius. 3 weeks ago my dash lit up with warning lights so I took it to the dealer. They ran a diag and came up with
P3000/123
P0A80/C2311
"Vehicle has bad #4 battery block. Neesd HV Battery pack and HV ECU" I had just hit 150,900 miles.
Given the cost I decided to fix it myself. After tracking down some cells and getting a HV ECU from a local junk yard I pulled out the hv battery broke it down, tested the two cells in the #4 block and replaced the low voltage cell. I then replaced the HV ECU. I put everything back together and everything started up fine and ran great.
Things work well for 2 weeks then yesterday as I'm pulling into my driveway the main error indicator (the big red triangle containing a !) lit up. Needless to say I was disappointing. I turned the car off and then turned it back on. At this point most all of the error indicators were lit (see attached image). I get a new error indicator on the multi-information display (the red car with the ! in it, according to the manual I'l supposed to take it the the dealer immediately) The car started but the engine does not start. The car will not go into drive or reverse, just neutral.
I thought I may not be pressing the brake correctly so I spent some time making sure I was depressing the brake pedal fully when starting up. No change. I checked that the break lights are working when I press the pedal and they are working correctly. I checked the brake fluid reservoir and it is filled to the correct levels.
A friend bought a innova OBD2 scan tool (his kid's cars break a lot) I borrowed it and hooked it up to my car. No error codes detected was what it told me. I was a bit perplexed. I switched to the Toyota enhanced DTC and then Readiness DTC and finally found some codes:
P0300
P0171
P0172
P000A
I found what looks to be the 2004 service manual online in an open directory : [URL] ...... While I don't find P000A I do see the other 3.
P0300 (05–157)
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
Open or short in engine wire harness
Connector connection
Vacuum hose connection
Ignition system
Injector
Fuel pressure
Mass air flow meter
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Compression pressure
Valve clearance
Valve timing
PCV hose connection
PCV hose
ECM
P0171 (05–143)
System Too Lean (Bank 1)
Air induction system
Injector has blockage
Mass air flow meter
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Fuel pressure
Gas leakage in exhaust system
Open or short in A/F sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) circuit
A/F sensor (bank 1 sensor 1)
A/F sensor heater (bank 1 sensor 1)
EFI M relay (integration relay)
PCV valve and hose
PCV hose connection
ECM
P0172 (05–143)
System Too Rich (Bank 1)
Injector has leakage or blockage
Mass air flow meter
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Ignition system
Fuel pressure
Gas leakage in exhaust system
Open or short in A/F sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) circuit
A/F sensor (bank 1 sensor 1)
A/F sensor heater (bank 1 sensor 1)
EFI M relay (integration relay)
ECM
I was hoping for something a bit less vague. So that's where I am right now. I have the indicator lights as seen in the attached image. The car powers up but the engine does not start. The car will not go into drive or reverse. I don't know the difference between the standard DTC and the readiness DTC.
Prius (2004-09) :: Noise Comes From The Front Of Car Whenever Drive Over 30 Mph
I have a 2008 Toyota Prius with 23k mileage. Whenever I drive over 30mph, I get a noise that comes from the front of the car. The noise gets louder as I drive faster. I just got the tires replaced, and that did not resolve the issue. I want to know what the problem is? Is it normal for Prius's to make this noise?
I just went to my mechanic and he told me that its the front wheel bearings. Can that possibly be the problem with my car.
Prius (2004-09) :: Cannot Shift To Drive - Dash Lights Are On
So my wife says she hit a curb last nite on her way to work, now this morning the car lost power several dash lights are on and the lcd display says problem on start up, and has a orange icon at the top left. It will only shift between park and neutral. The light on the power button wont turn green either. Currently I'm waiting on a tow truck.
View 6 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Warning Lights On - Car Would Not Go Into Drive And Only Into Neutral
My fiancee has a 2005 base model and is out shopping today. She just called me and said that she is stuck in a parking lot.
She told me on the way off the highway today the "big and little" triangles came on, but the car drove fine. When she got back to her car to leave, the car would turn on presumably, but all the warning lights were on. She then said that the car would not go into drive and only into neutral.
Prius (2004-09) :: Replaced 2 Transaxles And HV Battery / Car Won't Drive At All?
I purchased a 2005 Prius with 54k miles with a rebuilt title July 2011. About a month after I purchased it (from a private seller) I started to hear a slight grinding noise. It turned out it was the transmission/transaxle. I drove it for about 4 more months since I knew I had to replace the trans anyway. Next, I sourced a used transmission from the guy I purchased the car from. I installed the trans myself. But, it wouldn't run right at all afterward... it wouldn't go over 5mph and it would jerk. I took it to a Toyota shop and was told that it now had a dead 12v battery and HV battery.
I had both replaced. It still had the same issue with drivability. I took it to the dealership for a proper diagnosis and was told the transmission was the issue. So, I purchased another used transmission and installed it. I was very careful to make sure everything was installed correctly. So, now the car won't drive at all or even go into park. Attached is a picture of the current screen, which says "The transmission 'P' lock mechanism is abnormal. Park your car at a flat place and apply the parking brake completely." So, did I get another bad transaxle?
As I see it - my choices are
1) put in another used transmission, which I could do (3rd time is a charm) ,
2) spend more money to diagnose the car again or
3) sell it as is and get nothing for the car