IS F (2008-2014) :: Brake Pedal Requires A Lot Of Force To Start The Car

I went to start my car this morning after not driving it for about three days and nothing happened when I pushed the start button. So I double checked to make sure it was in park, had my foot on the brake and again the car wouldn't start. The only thing that would happen is it would engage the accessories same as if I pushed the start button without having my foot on the brake pedal. I did notice that the brake pedal felt unusually hard as in, it would not depress more than a few millimeters. I decided to push on the brake pedal with considerable amount of force which resulted in it depressing maybe a few millimeters more. Then when I pushed the start button the car started up and the braked pedal sank a few inches like normal when the car first starts up. Everything was normal after this. Made a few pit stops on the way to work and the brakes felt fine and the car started perfectly normally.

I have had the car for only a week and a half. It's a 2012 isf.

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2002 - No Longer Start / Just Keeps Cranking But Doesn't Ignite

So my 1.6 accent (140,000) decided to no longer start. Just keeps cranking but doesn't ignite. Plugged a scanner in and it's the crankshaft position sensor. How difficult is this to get to? From what I've ready its just held on one end by a 10mm bolt and the older end is just a connector, but it looks like it might be in a pain in the ass location. Does anything need to be taken off first to access? Should this take less than 30 min?

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Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2009 - Cranking Slow / Taking Longer To Start

On my 09 accent, it's been cranking slow/taking longer to start. Occasionally it won't even have the guts to spin the starter (clicking solenoid noise).

I checked the battery (<1 year old), and it has a resting voltage of 16.2 (?!) When running, it jumps to 17.4. Is this a bad alternator?

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Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Engine Cranking Longer Before Starting

I've only had the car a month, and it's happened maybe three times now. I turn the key, and it takes twice as long as usual to start, about 5 full seconds of the engine cranking before it ignites. I think each time was after I had driven the car an hour or two before (when I'm heading home after an outing). Most of the time, the car starts fine. What's going on?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Truck Started Cranking Longer Than Normal To Start After Sitting For More Than 2 Hours

About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).

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Golf/GTI VI :: Longer Cranking Time When Turning On Ignition

Symptoms:

- Longer cranking time when turning on the ignition.
- Codes P2293 - Fuel Pump Regulator 2 Performance, P0087 and P053F.
- When I get on it, the rpm would shoot up while the speed is increasing at a very slow rate.

At first, I thought it's my clutch slipping, but after watching this youtube video (not mine), I think it's the fuel pump issue.

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Impala - Chevrolet :: 2009 - Remote Start Will No Longer Start Engine

2009 Impala, 54k, factory installed remote start will no longer start the engine.This problem just started with both remotes.When used in close proximity of the car this is what happens: 1st-attempt-I hear a short humming noise and lights flash, 2nd-attempt a click and lights flash, 3rd attempt (and there after)-no sound and no flash of lights.The remote lock/unlock feature with horn beep and lights flash works fine on both remotes.The car starts every time by key with no problem.Any thoughts of what may be wrong?

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Passat (B7) :: AC Take Longer To Start Blowing Cold Air

My 2013 Passat SEL TDI has 40,000 miles on the clock and in the past few months I've noticed it's taking longer to start blowing cold air. I've had several summers already so I'm already used to it's performance in the hot summer months but this summer has been different. The A/C will not blow any cold air at all before the car gets going under load (it didn't need engine load before) and sometimes it just won't blow cold at all but just barely "cool" air. I'll sometimes be driving for a half hour and never get the A/C to really blow cold.

Other times, it'll blow just fine. It's the hit and miss performance that has me confused. I then bought one of those refrigerant bottles from an auto parts store that comes with a gauge to see if maybe I have lost refrigerant or it's low but when I checked the gauge the pressure was exactly where it needed to be. I just came off that dreaded 40K service at the dealership and am trying to avoid going back there at all costs...

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Passat (B5) :: Fuel Pump Has No Sound While Cranking, Car Won't Start

98 Passat 1.8T FWD

Car will not start. No sound from fuel pump while cranking. Pulled up the carpets and pulled the cover and connector from the fuel pump. Ive heard the relay is the common problem. I tried checking the voltages on the harness and we get 0 while cranking. Pulled the relay and we get a resistance from T pin to pin 86. I did notice a yellow color on the white connector on the fuel pump itself around the middle two contacts.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Slower Cranking Time And Took A Second Or 2 Longer Than Normal

I have a 2002 F350 7.3 with 76,000 miles (still a baby) ... about a week or 2 ago i got in my truck and went to start it like normal, except instead of whipping over and firing right up in the snap of a finger, it kinda had a slower cranking time and took a second or 2 longer than normal. My first thought was maybe the battery's, BUT there basically brand new !!! not even a year old !!! ... so i figured maybe a starter, but i just left it as is, it still ran normal after firing.... Until this morning, I went to go start it and it cranked over 3 or 4 times real slow and would crank any more, it did this to me multiple times. Its acting like dead batteries so i put a jump pack on it, no change. I am thinking maybe a starter ....

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Ford A/C :: Taking Longer And Longer To Start Cooling?

02 Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5 spd 115K.... My A/C seems to take longer and longer to start cooling/ When it does start cooling it seems that is is actually colder than it has ever been (original owner) and the control is more sensitive to the touch when moved. Being a 4 cyl it's easy to detect when the compressor kicks in and it seems each time it is taking longer to do so. If I stop the motor, it goes thru the same cycle of time or longer before cooling (compressor kicking in) again. No codes, No unusual noises.

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Passat (B5) :: 2003 - Hard Start Up - Long Cranking Before Firing Up

Lately my '03 1.8t with 90k has taken to long cranking before firing.Once it fires, it runs rough for about two seconds and then smooth as usual. Thought it might be Fuel pump relay but I'd think that'd show a fault light. Same with Fuel pump?No faults showing up. Plugs changed 9k ago. Only run Premium Shell.

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Passat (B5) :: Keeps Cranking With Click Noise But Won't Start - Clock Reset

I drove two days ago. Yesterday I didn't drive. I just walked out to start my car and it won't start. It keeps cranking (click noise). The lights are turned on, locks response to my remote, radio works, but I noticed the clock was set back to 12:00 and it's 4:00pm right now.

Two days ago, I noticed my car hesitate a little when I accelerated to 35-40.

I drive a 99 1.8 t Passat

Turns out i needed a battery replace. my battery was having 67 amps compared to 500 requirement.

Question: Does low battery life cause the car to hesitate (like as if the cylinder misfire) at 35-40 mph acceleration?

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: All Light On - No Cranking From Engine - Replace Relays?

In the last 50 starts it has happened twice: When I try to start the truck, all dash lights and power come on but there is no sound or cranking from the engine. If I cycle the key back and forth a half a dozen times it will then crank and start. Next time I will try and listen to hear if the solenoid is clicking.

I've read posts about it being the anti-theft, ignition switch, stater relay, ppm relay, etc....

I could replace the relays to rule them out, but my gut is telling me that's not it? Would there be a code from something like this?

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Lexus GS 2013+ :: Engine Keeps Cranking But Doesn't Start

I have a 2013 GS350 F sport with 56k miles. It was running fine yesterday, but today it wouldn't start. The engine keeps cranking but does not start. When you first try to start it, several lights come on, but after a few seconds they go away, but these lights remain on (see picture below). My advisor from Lexus said the light with the steering wheel and ! is for the power steering system.

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Accord :: 1988 - Engine Start After Some Cranking But Will Not Run Under 2500 RPM

I just replaced the auto transmission in my 1988 accord and upon first restart the car will not idle. I has been sitting for about 6 months while I replaced the trans, but was a daily driver prior to that. The car initially starts fine when cold, but shortly after startup starts running very rich and dies. Restart after this requires the throttle pedal to be held down. Engine will start after some cranking - but will not run under 2500 RPM and is obviously very rich. I've rebuild carbs before so I'm thinking about picking up a rebuild kit - just wondering if there could be other parts of the fuel control system that might be at fault.

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Ford Aerostar :: Engine Cranking While At Start Up And After Turning Off?

I've got a 1993 Ford Aerostar XLT. Was running great until yesterday, when I turned the ignition and got nothing but a click every time the key was turned. Checked the battery (had power), bridged the relay (just got clicks but didn't turn over)....so I concluded the starter was bad.

I installed a new starter motor/starter Selinoid today. The van started right up, but next start the engine kept cranking (even while van was running and after shutting off)...I had to disconnect the battery cable for it to stop. Next start the problem didn't persist...but the time after that it happened again.

Any thoughts as to what is going on, or where to start in tackling this problem?

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Passat (B5) :: If Crank When Engine Already Warm Takes Longer To Turn Over

When I crank the engine when it's cold, it cranks fine. Case in point: first thing in the morning and in the afternoon when I'm leaving the office to come home. However, if I crank the engine when it's already warm it takes significantly longer to turn over. It really doesn't feel like it wants to crank at all and pumping the gas pedal doesn't work with things even though its second nature from my old carburetor days. The fact that it only acts up when the engine is warm befuddles me! I remember reading something like this awhile ago and the culprit was a clogged "box that dissipates gases". It's a 2003 Passat with the 1.8 turbo. The car has been maintained according to the service schedule and runs like a champ with 100,349 on the odometer.

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: V8 - Check Charging System Message Appear 30 Seconds After Cranking The Engine?

I have an '04 F-150 4 x 4 Supercrew Lariat w/ the 5.4 V-8. It has 105,832 miles on it. No issues until a week ago. Battery light and "Check Charging System" message appear 30 seconds after cranking the engine. I have replaced the battery (Ford Motorcraft), belt and alternator (Motorcraft 130 Amp). Still getting battery light and error message. I've read some post that indicate it could be a short in the fuse box.

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