Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Intake Air Temp Sensor One Circuit High And Strange Idle?

I have a code for iat sensor 1 circuit high. It's the only code I can pull. I replaced the sensor in the manifold and still no change. The truck revs up when started but kinda finds its idle rpm after a second and the idle fluctuates some when the truck is warmed up too. I have a snap on solus and all parameters seem to be good. Icp sensor is also new thinking it might be the cause. Other than that the truck runs perfect and doesn't miss a beat.

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Metro :: 1992 Engine Swap - Can Change From 3 To 4 Cylinder

Can i change from 3 cyl to 4 cyl 1992 metro....

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Geo - Metro :: Car Smoking After Rebuilt Cylinder Head Installation

Got a rebuilt head for my metro from a very reputable ebay seller/shop, and it smokes pretty badly after installation. I checked my pcv valve and it has vacuum at idle, and the hose is not plugged. Performed a compression check- 180 on all cylinders- okay for my car. Called the shop to see if maybe they forgot to install the valve seals, and they insisted that there is no way they would forget that.

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Chevrolet - Metro :: Automatic Transmission - Engine RPMs Running High At Highway Speeds

I have a 2001 chevy metro 4 cyl. with 13 inch wheels and automatic transmission. The engine rpm's are running high at highway speeds. Would a larger diameter wheel support this situation?

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Metro :: 95 Geo Metro Stopped Running

I bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.

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Golf IV R32 :: Misfire On Cylinder 3 - Intake Valves Leaking

My car has been sitting for almost 2 years now so I decided to start it once again after fixing warped turbo and manifold flanges. Immediately after starting it we noticed a misfire on cyl 3. checked plugs, coils injector harness and all looked good. Then we realized that I lost compression on the back 3 cylinders, I did a wet compression test and nothing changed (worst being cyl 3 at 80 psi), engine warm and cold tests. Then a friend and I did a leak down test and it seems like the intake valves are leaking and the rings are good.

Before I remove the head and have tons of work done to it I wanted to check a little further so I started tearing the short runner intake manifold out and valve cover. with the valve cover out, the springs and cams etc looks all in good shape. Then the intake runners were covered with a lot of oil which is weird because I dont have my crank case vent recirculated to the intake and my turbo seals are not leaking (no oil on the inter-cooler piping), and it is not just fuel in there.

Now if my valves are leaking air out the combustion chamber could they also be leaking from the valve stem guides? I didn't notice excessive oil being burnt through the exhaust which is normal when that happens on cold starts. So I am confused on where the oil is coming from or how it is being pushed to the intake runners on the head and manifold.

I have had a bit of blow by, normal on my case, because when the low compression pistons were installed the rings were gaped a little more to account for high heat at high boost pressure.

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Error Code P0113 - Intake Air Temp Sensor

My 2003 Mk 4 Golf have had a lot of error codes and I have cleared most (O2 sensors, thermostat, and Mass Air Sensor) I now have an error P0113 which is the Intake Air temp Sensor.

So I need to clean the sensor first then maybe replace it, but I can't find the sensor on the intake manifold.

I have looked all through the U-Tube info, but nothing matches my 2003 Golf 2.0L ...

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Montana :: Cylinder 3 Misfire Code After Intake Gasket Change

I am currently getting cylinder 3 misfire code, after intake gaskets are installed. Here's what happened:

installed intake gaskets and reassembled
detected cylinder 1 misfire only
cleaned cylinder 1 spark plug & wire connectors and cleared the code
detected cylinder 5 misfire only
cleaned cylinder 5 spark plug & wire connectors and cleared the code
detected cylinder 3 misfire
checked all of the spark plug wires resistance
found cylinder 2 wire was bad. (over 20k ohms/meter)
replaced all six spark plugs and wires.

Please refer to the OBD reading attached...

There was a few excellent threads about cylinder 3 misfire issue : [URL] ....

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Error Code P0113 / Intake Air Temp Sensor

My 2003 Mk 4 Golf have had a lot of error codes and I have cleared most (O2 sensors, thermostat, and Mass Air Sensor) I now have an error P0113 which is the Intake Air temp Sensor.

So I need to clean the sensor first then maybe replace it, but I can't find the sensor on the intake manifold.

I have looked all through the U-Tube info, but nothing matches my 2003 Golf 2.0L ....

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: How Critical Is The Intake Air Temp Sensor

Noticed a while back that the plug for what I assume is the air intake temp sensor is looped. I assume because I can't find the sensor anywhere. how critical is the sensor? The new S&B has a hole for it so it's either gonna need a new sensor or a plug. The local autozone has one for 16.99.

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Passat - Volkswagen :: Misfiring On Cylinder 3 - Carbon Build Up On Intake Manifold

I recently took my 2007 VW Passat 2.0T in b/c the check engine light was on. They initially replaced a leaking valve and a bad ignition coil, but the car was still misfiring on cylinder 3. They took off the intake manifold and found that there was significant carbon build up. The service writer said it was from "low-quality" gas. The car requires 91 octane. I've used 93 octane since 2007 but started using 89 octane around 6 months ago when the gas prices spiked again. Could 6 months of 89 octane cause significant carbon build up to the point it would trip the check engine light? Or could something else have caused it that I need to watch out for?

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Dodge - Caravan :: 2012 - Shakes During Idle / Cylinder Head And Intake Manifold Replaced

2012 dodge caravan. Bought it used last year with 27k miles. Day after I bought it, it threw a misfire code. They said the spark plugs got wet when they washed the under carriage. Dried it out, cleared the code.

For the next month the car went from a slight shimmy during idle...progressed to strong shaking (its shakes, pauses, shakes...etc.) Finally another misfire code. Took it in and this is what the report says.

"Cylinder misfire on #4. Performed compression test found #4 cylinder compression at 100 PSI. All other cylinders at 150 PSI. Recommend to replace front cylinder head. Has burned exhaust valve seat. Replaced left cylinder head assembly."

About 2 months later check engine light comes on, car is over heating. Coolant bone dry. Replaced coolant, took it back in. They replaced the intake manifold?? Been slowly losing coolant. I have to replace it about every 2-3 months. I notice the car shakes worse when the coolant is low, with minimal shaking when coolant is replaced. Finally took it back in a few week ago when my husband got back from deployment. They said it was a loose bolt on the intake manifold causing the slow leak. They couldn't verify my complaint about the shaking.

Now, car still shaking. Its minimal on start up, gets worse the longer I idle. I can only feel the shaking while in idle. If I restart the car it goes back to minimal before progressing again. Took it back in. They verified the shaking, hooked it up to a computer, no codes or anything. Told me its normal. It CANT be normal, right? I neglected to check the coolant level before I took it back in. I left it with them saying they will look it over, but they don't think anything is wrong. This is exactly how it progressed when they ended up replacing the cylinder head. I have 1k miles left on the warranty, and am moving in 2 weeks 1500 miles away. I don't have time to wait for another code.

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Prius (2004-09) :: Oil / Fuel In Intake Manifold - Misfire For All Cylinder And Reduce Engine Power Codes

I'm getting oil and fuel into the intake manifold every couple hundred miles. Oil level is in the middle of low and full mark. It's not like it's a huge amount of oil and fuel in the intake but it's enough to make the car misfire, bog out. Only codes I'm getting are misfire codes for all cylinder and reduce engine power code (forgot what code it actually is) but that's when the car completely shuts down and won't start with red triangle light. If I clean the intake out and unplug the battery for a few min I'm able to start the car again, but it will run really rough and white smoke will start to come out the exhaust (gas smell). I'm wondering if a bad maf would cause this. I've already cleaned it but still doing same thing. Don't really know what the specs or reading the bad is suppose to be so I'm kinda stuck to determined if I need a maf or not. Cars got about 242K miles.

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: High Pitched Noise / Whoosh Sound From Intake At Low Rpm When Car Is Cold

I have a 2002 jetta 1.8t with unitronic stage 2 ECU and following mods:

ssqv BOV with recirc fitting (so acts like a DV)

3 inch open downpipe

Water/Meth injacetion (-35c washer fluid)

Short ram intake+heat sheild.

Spring loaded wastegate.

So for a while now I could hear a very quiet high pitched sound along with a whoosh sound from the intake at low rpm when the car is cold, after 5-10 minutes of driving the sound changes to where i just hear the wooosh from the intake, no high pitched.

I went out, let my car park for about an hour or 2 in 0c temp. went to drive it,everything is fine, the car just hit 90c. so i floored it, but traction control was on and i have winter tires, so it barley got to 4k rpm. CEL started flashing, no throttle control, really annoying high pitched sound from engine bay with lightest touch of throttle. the trubo was boosting to 22 psi and holding up to 16 PSI at redline before this happened.

The car would struggle to stay at idle, massive vibrations. but after reeving to 2k+ rpm no issue staying at that rpm, no blue/black smoke from exhaust. i scanned it and only got misfire codes and this strange code : "17925 - power supply relay for ecu (J271 or J363): electrical malfunction"

I had to clear the codes 3-4 times and restart the car 3 times for the power supply relay code to go away. but all the misfires, the high pitched sound stayed. it would misfire while driving, then stop, and then again.

I also logged with VCDS, and flooring it from 2k rpm to 2.6k rpm resulted in 0 extra boost over idle (idle boost was 980mbar).

Is my turbo blown 100% because of that sound, or could it be something else causing the "dentist drill" sound? And what about the power relay issue for ECU, could this cause any of the symptoms?

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Ford - Windstar :: Code P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High Input

Check engine light is on, this is the code that came up when checked at OReillys, "P0113 Intake Air temperature sensor 1 Circuit high input". Earlier took it to repair shop, he did not give the code, some sensor needs to be changed (don't know if he came up with same code). He had erased the code but it came back on within minutes. Wanted to check if there is any cheaper way to fix this. This is a windstar van.

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Camaro :: 96 Chevy High Temp At Idle About 230 - 240

96 chevy camaro 3.8. i got a problem with the idle temperature, just replaced the water pump and thermostat (180 degree). when driving around the cars stays at a constant 180 temp but when sitting and idling for more than 3 or 4 minutes the temp starts to climb and gets up to about 230-240 which i know is not good but that's when the fans start to kick on. The system is clean all new antifreeze, no air in the system every thing ready to go. I know its not normal for the temp to climb that high, what else could be cause this high temp at idle?

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Passat (B6) :: MFD Is Indicating High Temp But Needle Is At 0

Wifey calls me this morning while im already on the road saying that the MFD is indicating, hi temp, but the temp needle is at 0, as it should be when the car starts first thing in the morning. This was just this morning when she was leaving for work. Told her to shut down, and restart car, warning gone, ok good to go but not even reaching to end of street the gauge needle is already at operating temp (90). Met here back home and took a look under the hood. The coolant canister was well below min.

The car is a 2009 wagon with 20k kilometers. So off to the dealer to check for any leaks. they did a pressure test on the system and no leaks. They said the coolant had evaporated and it is not unusual.

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Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Outside Temp Reading Too High?

This is kind of a strange (minor) issue, but I noticed just recently that the outside temperature reading on my 2012 Sonata GLS is registering about 10 degrees hotter than the real outside temperature. This is driving down the road, not parked in the sun. It showed 91 degrees the other day as I was driving home from work, when the actual high for the area was barely 80.

My thoughts were that something was blocking or covering the sensor for the outside temp reading, but don't know where that sensor is located to check it...or if there might be some other way to "reset" the temp reading?

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Subaru :: Temp Gauge Stuck On High

We have replaced the sensor twice now and it still pegs on high. Sometimes when we just start up the car, other times after we are driving.

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