Oldsmobile - Intrigue :: 2000 - Hesitates While Driving
My 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue (Automatic) has 142,000 miles on it. Our car has been hesitating when I drive on occasion. It does it randomly, it was once or twice a month, now it's about 3 or 4 times a week. I can be either trying to accelerate from a stop or already going 50 and trying to speed up to 65 or something and it won't go. The RPM gauge will fly up to 3500 and my MPH gauge will not move.
When it does this the "Check Engine Soon" light flashes, but as soon as the episode is over, shuts off. It does it anytime of day, whether it's the first time started for the day, or been running for hours. In recent months we've replaced the battery, the starter, the timing belt, recently the fuel pump as well as a few O rings. We are tired of fixing this car and not having this problem taken care of. Our mechanic can't seem to find anything else wrong.
Intrigue :: 2001 Car Started Just Shutting Off While On The Road
Last Thursday my car started just shutting off on me while on the road. I'll put it on neutral and start it back up just fine and it'll continue to drive. The next day it started fine again until it warmed up and I turn it off. So when I try to turn it back on it stalled for a while and then it turned on. This continued until last Monday when it just finally died on me and had to get it towed home.
I figured my crankshaft sensor was bad so I replaced it with a bad battery I found out I had. I also replaced the fuel filter, air filter, fuel pump, fuel injectors, spark plugs, ignition coil packs, air mass flow sensor and still nothing. It cranks now but I'm not sure if I am getting enough fuel or spark for it to run. I'm thinking its the fuel pressure regulator or ignition module at this point but I'm getting tired of guessing, especially spending money.
2000 S10 Engine Stops Randomly With No Warning While Driving Down The Road
I recently inherited an s10 that works fine but has a very quirky condition. The engine will stop randomly with no warning while driving down the road after turning off the ignition, wait a minute or two, turn it back on and it works fine for a few more days or couple of weeks, but has been driving me crazy, and isn't very safe The check engine light is on and the code read a bad crank sensor, so I got that replaced, and it didn't fix the issue so the mechanic said that the next step would be to replace the ignition module with the ignition coils.
View 1 RepliesLexus RX 2010-15 :: 2012 RX350 - Road Noise Transmitted Back Into Cabin When Driving On Rough Road Surface
My 2012 RX350 now for over a year and like it a lot.........BUT.
There's seems to be a lot "road noise" that's transmitted back into the cabin, like driving over expansion joints on blacktop or rough road surface, is this normal?
I drove a 2000 RX300 for 100,000 miles and don't remember it being this noisy. Interior noise is great and quiet.
Intrigue :: 1998 - Losing RPMs While Driving
I have done a extensive tune up on my intrigue, I have been having a problem last six months or so with it losing rpms while driving, idles fine and only loses rpms while foot is barely on peddle, If I give it more gas jumps up to normal, what may be causing this?
View 1 RepliesIntrigue :: 2000 GLS - Hard Start After Several Cranks
So I've had this problem for a while, tried a few fixes to no avail. My wife's car is a 2000 Intrigue GLS, and for quite a while now it has been a hard start. You turn the key, starter cranks up and you have to give the engine several good cranks before it sounds like it picks up. Even then quite often it will simply die as soon as you let go of the key, or else drop down to about 200 RPMs and then rev back up.
After this you can start again no problem, or sometimes it will seem to idle a little rough until you start driving. I have replaced spark plugs, cam/crank sensors, fuel filter, cleaned the throttle body and the O2 sensor, none providing any solution. It typically will start better if it has only been off for a very short period, but if longer than a few minutes will still be hard to start.
Intrigue :: 2000 - Transmission Fluid Leakage
I have a 2000 intrigue (w/ a 3.5), it is leaking tranny fluid pretty bad. I cleaned under the tranny to see where it might be leaking and I was hoping it was the tranny pan, but it is not. where else would it be leaking? it looks like its possibly coming from the passenger drive axel. how hard is it to fix it? I keep adding fluid so I dont wreck my transmission but this cant go on for ever.
View 2 RepliesIntrigue :: 3.5 - Engine Stumbling Or Loses Power For Less Than A Second While Driving
My 3.5 intrigue seems to stumble while driving it. It feels as it the engine is stumbling or loses power for less than a second and it will do this a few times in a row and will be fine for awhile and then repeat itself.
This can happen while cruising, slow acceleration or at a stop light. I don't really notice it under harder acceleration. When it does happen i do notice that the rpm's drop a very slight bit.
Intrigue :: 2000 3.5L - Oil Loss / Valve Covers Leaking
I have a 2000 Intrigue 3.5L 155,000 Mi ... Oil use has been about 1 QT at 3000 miles since 120,000 miles. Before that I wasn't keeping track.
The valve covers were leaking pretty bad and could be smelled burning off. I replaced them along with my P/S pump. There also was fluid in the engine valley that I believe was P/S Fluid..
I changed the oil and I was 1.5 Qt low at 2,000 miles. So it is suddenly WORSE. Even though I replaced the leaking valve covers. There is also currently not fluid in the engine valley. I park in the same place every night and do not notice a puddle. Also there is no noticeable blue smoke from the exhaust. Just a little white as it is winter.
I am looking for where else the oil could be going that it doesn't leave a puddle on the ground.
Oldsmobile - Intrigue :: 2000 Won't Start After A Short Time Of Being Off
My car is 6 cylinder 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue. It won't start after a short time of being off. It has to be more than 2 hours off before it starts up. What is wrong?
View 11 RepliesOldsmobile - Intrigue :: Overheating When Driving Over The Mountainous Area Outside Of Town
My 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue keeps overheating when driving over the mountainous area outside of town. It usually occurs when coming back from drill (4 hour drive). The mountainous region is around the 3.5 hour mark. All the fluids are normal. Coolant is within the preferred region and oil is the same. But every time I climb the mountain it reaches to the overheat mark and I have to kick on the heater to save the engine. Is there another reason behind why it over heats?
View 2 RepliesIntrigue :: 2000 3.5L - Vibration And Noise When Turning Left Under Load
2000 3.5L
On a hard left high speed turn, it vibrates under load. Also while under throttle when making a second gear left hand turn.
Noise will come and go when going over dips at high speeds under load. I have already replaced the left Half shaft.
I am a master mechanic and have had success with changing a half shaft on a similar situation. Looking for other possibilities before I throw another half shaft at it.
Oldsmobile - Intrigue :: 2000 - Overheating Accompanied By Bubbling Sounds
So I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue with about 190k miles. It currently has an overheating problem but first I'll discuss some history:
-It had a previous overheating problem a few months ago that was accompanied by bubbling sounds. We diagnosed this as boiling coolant because the system was not pressurizing due to a leak in the reservoir. We fixed the reservoir leak and pressure tested it to find that the leak was repaired. The bubbling noises stopped and the car no longer overheated.
-The car was then underheating nearly all the time. We diagnosed this as a broken thermostat, probably killed by the overheating that was caused by the leak in the reservoir. We replaced the thermostat and bled/burped the system and now the car does not underheat.
Now the car operates around the half-temp mark and stays very regular except in traffic or parked in the driveway. So it overheats when it is idling. You can rev up the engine in these cases and see the temp gauge fall back down, so it is dependent on RPM only and not on the actual traveling speed of the car. Also at this time the car supplies nice heat to the cabin.
Things to exclude:The electric fans seem to be working fine and they switch on and off supplying a good deal of wind.The system was bled/burped.The system has a new thermostat.The system does not leak based on a pressure test.The system has enough coolant.The system supplies good heat to the cabin.
My guess is that there is a clog/general grossness inside the system someplace or that the water pump is starting to fail?
Intrigue :: Clunk While Driving - Steering Wheel Locked And Would Not Turn Left
A while back as I was driving, I heard some sort of clunk, and the steering wheel locked and would not turn left. It then unlocked after a few seconds. Ever since then, it has been very hard to turn to the left (and right, at slow speeds and on sharp turns, but much easier than turning left). This happened a few days after I replaced both front end struts and inner tie rod ends, and got an alignment - they were cheap quick struts (entire assembly), but seem to be of fairly good quality.
Initially after some consultation I thought it was the power steering pump, so I replaced that. It became easier to turn right, but still very hard to turn left. I took the front end off the ground and turned the wheel all the way left and right, no problem or resistance. I am nearly certain it is not the pump.
At this point, I am fairly certain it is either the steering gear or some part of the rack and pinion. I am planning on getting the assembly replaced. The fastest and cheapest way is apparently to just buy the entire steering gear/r&p assembly. Would bad strut mounts ever cause an issue like this? Any other possibilities besides the steering linkage?
Oldsmobile - Starting - Intrigue - Rough :: 2000 - Idles At Non Regular Number?
I don't know what is wrong with this car, I have put in new titanium plugs, new plug wires, new fuel filter, new air filter, changed the oil, I burn mid-grade gas. The car starts right up when cold, however once it warms up it idles on a non regular number, dies when driving and is very hard to start. I get lousy mileage and it smells like it is either not getting enough gas or not getting enough air. I don't know what else to do. I had it analyzed with an electric analyzer, no codes were found. When the plugs were put in the air flow sensor had either gas or oil on it. It does not use any oil.
View 1 RepliesSuzuki - Xl7 :: 2007 - Engine Hesitates While Driving
My wife drives a Suzuki XL7 from 2007 with approximately 70000 miles on board. While driving the engine hesitates and the revs drop suddenly, not much but it is visible on the dash and the car shakes. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter is fine, and it is still doing it. I was thinking about changing the fuel filter however the filter is not serviceable in this car, it is part of the fuel pump assembly. A mechanic checked the fuel pressure and it appears it is fine. There are no warning light on the dash, no check engine light on and the car accelerates just fine if you give it gas. It has no problem starting and I have not noticed doing the same thing while idling, though this issue is intermittent. My wife stated that the problem happens regardless if the engine is cold or hot.
View 11 RepliesCamry :: 2002 - Hesitates And Stalls After Driving For A While
I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 which I bought a month ago from its original owner. It has 140k miles on it. Timming belt and water pump were changed at 90k, car is in very good shape, clean engine.
It has a weird issue.
In the early morning, from my house to work around 7am, I have to drive around 20 mins on freeway , I exit and drive for another 5 mins on local street which is up and downhill, at red light or when I have to turn, the car begins to hesitate like hiccup and stall on me. The car cannot start again immediately, all power is still working, the car is trying its best to turn over but it fails. However after I wait couple mins, I can restart the car. Then, the car will run just fine, absolutely fine the rest of the day.
The weird thing here is, on days I don't have to work, I start to drive it at around 10am when it's warmer and there's sunshine, and not up and downhill, it never hesitates or stalls. Even I try to drive it up a big hill near my house at noon, nothing happens. So I'm not sure if driving up and downhill playing a part in this problem.
It doesn't happen all the time when I have to drive to work in early morning, up and downhill, but more than often. The car drives great on freeway, idle excellent around 500-600 RPM. One more detail, the gas pedal kind of vibrates (very small vibration) around 1600 RPM, and it's annoying. I'm not sure if it is relating to the issue.
Here what I did to the car:
1. Clean throttle body.
2. Clean Mass Airflow Sensor. Didn't work. Then I replaced it with a used OEM one.
3. Put Techron Additive in the gas tank.
4. Replace Air Filter.
None of the above works, but I think somehow it improves a tiny little bit.
Civic - Honda :: 2001 - Hesitates While Driving?
My civic hesitates/jerks while driving. I've taken it to several mechanics, the local Honda dealer, and the best retired Honda mechanic around; no one can tell me whats wrong although I do have to say no one has really checked it out very thoroughly. The check engine light does not come one, it seems to run worse when the humidity is up, and it runs great in cold weather. I've run gas cleaner through it, had an 02 sensor put on, put non-ethanol gas in it. No difference in how it runs. Sometimes it runs really well in the first 5 minutes of starting. It idles fine . .
View 3 RepliesAccent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 - Stumbles / Hesitates From Standstill
I have a 2001 Accent, manual transmission 1.5L. The lady who had it before me overfilled it and stuffed the charcoal canister. She had this replaced, but when I bought it she reported that it still had a fuel issue immediately after refueling. She said it would stall and run rough and hesitate.
After I bought it I took it to refuel and confirmed the problem. I had read that the ECU may be trying to draw fuel through following refueling, but the new canister might be messing something up. She used to only drive it commuting distance in a city, so I took it for a long drive. Running at steady cruising state for a prolonged period seemed like a good idea, to allow any ECU learning. This partially fixed the problem! Now, most of the time, I can leave a fuel stop without a 20km drama before the car settles down, although the problem hasn't entirely gone away and it still does play up sometimes.
There's a more pressing problem which may or may not be related, however. When launching from idle, the engine goes through this 2-5 second hesitation of no power at all. If I rev up before letting the clutch out it's ok, but there's a certain minimum revs needed to avoid the problem. This is killing my clutch, and if I get it wrong it sometimes leaves me in the middle of a busy junction with no power for an uncomfortable period! During the hesitation, I've found the best way to force it is to put clutch back in and go full throttle. After 1 second or so the revs come back. The problem is much worse when the air conditioning is on.
So the clues are:
1. the previous charcoal canister issue
2. the full throttle thing might indicate something with the TPS
3. the worsening of the problem with the a/c on
Things I've tried so far...
1. prolonged cruising; seemed to improve things after refueling but overall fueling issues not fixed.
2. disconnected the battery -ve and applied brake light circuit to drain ECU capacitor, then left for any power-hold relays etc. then reconnected battery and took it for a normal drive for 30 minutes or so. No effect.
...and things I've yet to try (all gleaned from searching this forum)
1. checking / replacing plugs and HT leads
2. checking / replacing o2 sensor
3. checking the TPS plug connections. Checking the sensor itself sounds expensive - would it involve more than standard OBD?
4. checking vac hoses, in particular the hose which draws from the cannister
5. checking alternator (not sure how); the worsening of the problem with the a/c on could indicate low power getting to injectors etc? (bit of a wild guess)
In a former life I was a diesel engine calibration engineer, so I know the tricks which manufacturers can put into ECUs. What I don't know is the tricks specific to this car.