Golf/GTI VI :: During Cold Start Cycle Getting Misfires And Air Surge

Ok, to start off. I have a 2010 2.0T CCTA with 23k miles. I recently purchased a HPA Intake Manifold and installed it myself. I was told by HPA that they offer a tune specifically for their manifold. I however, purchase the Maestro suite by Eurodyne with the intention on getting it all tuned myself. I was able to code out the CEL for the flappers no problem. Now my only issue is the cold starts. During the cold start cycle I get misfires and air surge. I ran the fault reader and got the P0300-P0304 (Misfire faults). Obvious thing to check were plugs and packs. So I changed them. No change.

I read in a bunch of threads that these faults as well as air surge are a sign of the PCV Valve. I have a catch can kit on order so I will see if that wotrks. My guess is no. Another thing I think it could be is the N75 valve however, this issue only occurs during the cold start cycle. After the cold start cycle is done I have no issues what so ever. So I ruled out the N75 valve. If it was bad, then it would be bad regardless of how cold/warm the engine was. I have attached a video of the Cold Start.

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Integra :: At Stop Light If Hit Brakes A Few Times RPMs Drop And Start Going Up And Down

Basically i have an integra here used to be a gsr with a type R engine. Basic bolt on's and 8lbs flywheel, 6 puck racing clutch. Here are the problems, i hate fixing other shops messes but here we go. When sitting at a stop light if we hit the brakes a few times every time we do it the rpm's drop and start going up and down, some times when the car is just sitting there idleing it does it. Had the same problem on a del sol with a gsr engine and b16a2 head on it done from the same shop. Also when its cold the owner complains that it will take him like 1/2 hour to start it. I was thinking that the grounding wasn't good enough. The check engine light is on as well, but how to get the ecu codes out of this ecu.

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Integra :: 1987 Rough Idle / When Stopped RPMs Drop Below Normal

I have done everything I can think of to this car. New; plugs, wires, distributor, battery, fuel pump, fuel filter, relay, and electrical lines to fuel pump. The timing belt is fine. The car has a rough idle and when I am stopped the RPM's drop below normal. Now it won't start. What can I try now?

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Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Motor Will Rev Up When Cold / Drop To Low Idle Then Surge Up Again

My 2009 with the 3.3 motor will rev up when cold drop to a low idle then surge up again. It will do this until it is warm even when in drive. It never did this before only in the winter it would start at fast idle for a minute then drop to normal idle. There are no codes or lights, what would cause this?

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GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Boost Will Surge To 15psi Then Drop To 0 And Continues On Acceleration

The past few days ive been having some boost problems. Boost will surge to 15psi then drop to 0psi and continues on acceleration. Coming from work today I was unable to get past 5psi accelerating

Then on WOT the boost would spike to 23psi then down to zero. Checked all hoses i could see and reach to make sure they were connected.

Mods:
Forge 007 DV
ECS Race N75 Valve
Turboback Exhaust
Chipped
Short Ram Intake

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Idle Surge When Tuned / RPMs Drop To Around 621 - 630 Then Shoot Back Up To 660 - 675

Recently I have noticed that when on a tune other than stock I am getting a surge at idle - my RPMs drop to around 621-630 then shoot back up to 660-675. On my stock tune my RPMs stay around 640-667 and don't cause the surge (felt as a shimmy so to speak). Is there anything else that causes a similar symptom? I attribute it to tuning due to it only happening when running anything but stock but could be wrong.

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Regal :: Surge And Missing If Try To Accelerate Even 1/3 Or More Throttle - MAF Code P0102

I have a 2001 Regal GS with 105K. It starts, idles and runs fine if I drive it like a Grandpa, but if I try to accelerate even 1/3 or more throttle, it surges and misses. It keeps giving a P0102 (Mass Air Flow A Circuit Low), sometimes less than a minute from resetting it, and other times after 5-10 minutes of driving. I've tried 5 MAF's, two of which were new, and one from a known good running L67 motor. Plugs are new and wires are good. The power and ground wire of the connector test good, but I'm not able to test the signal wire. I've also checked over all vacuum lines and hoses, and pressure tested the exhaust for a plugged cat. I even tried another TPS.

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Jeep - Grandcherokee :: 2004 - Low Throttle Pressure / Slight Pull Or Surge Feeling To The Right

New quirk in my '04 Overland, 133K miles. When driving, it feels like I am getting some "wrap up" in the drive line. What I mean is that, when there is even the slightest amount of throttle pressure, and it is let off, there is a perceptible slight pull or surge feeling to the right. When even light throttle pressure is applied again, it will pull back left again. No driveline noises, clunks, shimmies, etc. , just the feel of the car sort of torqueing when there is pressure added or removed from the power train. It is more of a "seat of the pants" feel than in the steering. My guess is that it may be a suspension link or bushing in the rear ended gone, although I do have some fear about maybe the limited slip unit in the rear differential acting up, as I hear these can be prone to issues.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Sluggish / Slow Response On The Road - Throttle Surge

7.3 2001 model starts ok at 32-35 F. Feels a bit sluggish / slow response on the road. Reach a hill after 3-4 miles. Engine temp then beginning to go above low level mark. 100 meters up the hill, going around 30 mph there is a sudden surge in the throttle although my pedal is steady. Going back a few minutes later, on flat ground at bottom of hill and with no accelerator pressure, the engine suddenly stalls. Starts fine again after I stop. The same history actually repeated on two separate days recdently on the same hill. CPS is recently replaced. Had some jerking before that, but not the behavior explained above. Current CPS is Delphi light grey. Recent fuel filter change and oil change as well

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Golf VI R :: Throttle Value Angle Drop Down Between 3280 To 3380 Rpm

I was running some logs to put into virtual dyno and I noticed that on all three the throttle value angle drops down to 33.7% between 3280 to 3380 rpm. Then above 6000 rpm it start to drop from 99% down to 91%. Even though the accel pedal pos is reading at 99.6. Is this normal??

For these I only logged 054, 115 and 031.

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Golf V R32 :: Lifted Throttle Suddenly, RPMs Drop Very Fast

Yesterday I was driving my R spiritedly (the usual...). I accelerated up close to redline and was just about to shift up when something happened in front of me (I forget what, lane change, something like that) so I let the gas pedal snap back up. I didn't touch the brake pedal at all.

What surprised me was the tach fell off almost like the car was dead. My expectation is that momentum and the car being in gear would cause the RPMs to decay slowly, just as my speed decayed.

Do you think the DSG plays a role here? Did it engage the clutch because of the 'panic' lift of the throttle? It didn't put me in an unsafe condition or anything, it just surprised me as I'd not seen it do that before.

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Passat (B5) :: Code P1297 - Pressure Drop Between Turbo And Throttle Valve

Daughters car is throwing this code of 17705 VW (1297) saying it is a "Pressure Drop Between Turbo And Throttle Valve" Car runs rough until about 2500 RPM. Replaced the pressure switch by the intercooler.

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Idle Really Rough / Revs Will Rise And Then Drop Again If Blip The Throttle

I just locked out the cam phasers on a 2005 f150 with a 5.4. It now idles pretty rough. If I blip the throttle the revs will rise and then drop again, and it barely catches in time to prevent a stall. If I continue to tease it this way I can usually get it to stall. I'm getting no CELs or anything, but I intermittently will get a P035x code (it seemed to rove. I've gotten cylinder 1, 4, 6, but not consistently.). I have chased those around by swapping coils, checking/cleaning the connectors, etc.

I am kind of thinking that these codes are a symptom of my idle issues, and not the actual problem. What could I have done wrong? Could it be a vac issue? I had basically the entire ECU harness and all the vac lines disconnected to do the job, but as far as I can tell everything has been reconnected to the correct locations. I did have an SCT tune done to remove the phasers in the ECU. I installed it and still have the issue, so for now I am on the stock tune just to eliminate any variables.

Could my tune be the issue? Is this how you would expect the engine to behave with locked out phasers and no corresponding ECU tune?

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Golf/GTI VII :: HID Cycle At Start Up?

Had the car for about a week, Autobahn with lighting pack, leaving home is set to fogs. So when its dark out and I have the switch in auto, obviously the fogs come on when I unlock the car, as soon as I push the button to start the car the headlights will come on for a microsecond, shut off, then start up again and stay on. This happens about 99% of the time and it can't be good for the ballasts.

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Toyota - Camry :: AC Blows Hot Air / Compressor Cycle On And Off

Whenever I use the a/c on the 88 camry it blows hot air unless you driving very fast when the vehicle is idling it seem to heat up again you can hear the compressor cycle on and off so that would mean the compressor needs replacing right? And also when I replace it do I need to get a new receiver dryer and filter for it?

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Golf/GTI VI :: How To Get Gauge Needles To Run A Cycle On Start Up

How do I get my gauge needles to run a cycle on start up? It is even possible?

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Ford A/C :: Compressor Will Cycle Quickly Like Low On Freon

Ok, '99 F450 has had a/c problem for couple years and finally getting around to fixing it(co. truck and enough people complained).

When dead cold, compressor will cycle quickly, like low on freon. Low side goes from 40 to 20 and back again as it cycles. Put a set of good gauges on it today and I can't get it to turn on at all. Even jumped both hi and lo switches.

Originally I was thinking it was the clutch, but when cold I was able to jump switches and make it run continuously. I didn't have gauges then and didn't want to burn it up so now I have gauges and it won't come on at all(when warm). Will have to wait a couple days til I can try it again when cold(like in the morning before it gets used).

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Toyota - Sequoia :: Door Locks Cycle On And Off During Wet Weather

Vehicle is a 2005 Toyota Sequoia SR5. Door locks cycle on and off. Happens during wet weather and usually takes 2-3 hours of driving. Sounds like there is a relay shorting out so that even though the doors are already locked, it attempts to relock them. If I unlock doors using the rocker switch, immediately locks them.

Then the lock mechanism tries to lock them again, and cycles through this every 10 seconds to 3-4 minutes randomly. Is there a relay under the hood which might do this when moisture enters the engine compartment? If so, where is it located and what is the part number.

One mechanic suggested that I replace the multiples computer located in the rear tailgate but he wasn't very clear about why he thought that was the case.

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Prius (Gen 3) :: Complete Drive Cycle Don't Show For The Catalyst Or O2

My prius was reset due to HV battery being replaced, I need to pass the NY State inspection and for that I have to complete a Drive cycle.

I have followed the instructions in the service manual for Catalyst, O2 and Evap test. I put the car in inspection mode and idle for few min to warm up then drive it for 10-20 min while monitoring it with techstream the Catalyst and O2 showed Pass and Complete the Evap needed the car to cool down for 6 hours so did that but I am not sure if I am ready to go in or not.

The COMPLETE does not show any more for the catalyst or O2 even but it does say PASS for all 3 . What does this mean?

why does it say incomplete for the test that I already passed?

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