Honda - Accord :: 2001 - CEL Came On Showing Code P1457 For EVAP Leak / Failed Emissions Test
I own an '01 Honda Accord LX with the ULEV engine and 178k on it. My CEL light came on about 6 months ago. Ran the scanner and it showed a P1457 (EVAP Leak). Waited until now when my inspection was due and expected it to be caused by the EVAP shut valve as I read that's often the cause of the problem with this code. Mechanic said that it can't pass inspection because of the OBD fail but that the diagnostic scanner showed everything functioning properly, including my assumption about the faulty shut valve.
He reset the code and said to drive it the 50 miles for the system to ready itself and bring it back in. As I've reset the code several times over the 6 months to see if it would self correct, I'm pretty confident it will come back on. My questions are, is it possible I've done damage to the onboard computer by not addressing the underlying problem 6 months ago? Are there emissions problems that are not checked by the diagnostic tool that the mechanic should be looking for?
Honda - Accord :: 1993 Transmission - D4 Light On Dash Is Flashing
1993 accord my d4 light on the dash is flashing and it wont shift out of park....
View 2 RepliesHonda - Accord :: 2002 SE - Maintenance Required Light Start Flashing
I have a 2002 Honda accord SE. It has about 194,850ish miles on her. The maintenance required light starts to flash when I turn on the car and then the light stops flashing after a bit. What it means?
I checked for any codes and there's nothing. My oil is a bit low, but not at the marker. My next due for an oil change says 195,300ish. I've never seen it flash before.
Honda - Accord :: 1995 - D4 Light Is Flashing - Speedometer Needle Does Not Work?
I have a 95 Honda Accord V6, the D4 light is flashing and the speedometer needle does not work. When in stop and go traffic, the needle bounces around and makes the car stall and downshift and rev up. I replaced the speed sensor with no change.
View 6 RepliesHonda - Accord :: Check Engine Light Is Flashing And Motor Skips Like A Fouled Plug
My check engine light is flashing and motor skips like a fouled plug. When I tried to change plugs the last plug to the right was pulled down so I couldn't get a wrench on it and covered in oil. How bad is this? Head or engine?
View 6 RepliesHonda - Accord :: 2005 - Getting Engine Code P0171?
So I recently changed the air filter in my car. Its hard to get to and replace. Its in a tough spot and I am not sure if I secured the cover fully and completely. I am pretty sure I did. Anyway, a week later I had my check engine light come on, it stayed on for a couple hours then went off. It hasn't come back on since. However, I went to the Autozone, anyway, and had them read the code. They said it was P0171, system too lean bank 1. Is this a serious issue? What are some common ways to fix it, if it is? The car is a 2005, Honda Accord EX. 4 cyclinders. PZEV version. It has 142,000 miles on it.
View 4 RepliesAccord :: Engine Light Code P1009 On 4 Cyl 2005 Honda
I have a 2005 Accord 4 cylinder that has the engine light on. I have had it serviced and the code was P1009. First mechanic added oil and reset the light. It came back on, so the problem wasn't low oil. He then replaced the variable timing solenoid and changed the oil and filter. After a week or so, the light came on with same code. I then took it to a foreign car specialist well-skilled in Honda engines. He did a lot of research and confirmed the first mechanic did everything correctly, but he also changed the small screen in the oil passage (related to the VTC solenoid somehow). Light came back on today. The car only has 44,000 miles and was well-maintained, oil checked and replaced regularly, no sludge or buildup. I will return to the mechanic that did the last repair, but they all seem stumped by the return of the P1009 code. How to resolve it?
View 2 RepliesHonda - Accord :: 2000 V6 - Code P1491 / Car Hesitates And Gives A Little Jerk
Engine light is on, Auto Zone has given me a code of P1491 it mentioned open or short circuit condition, poor electrical connection, failed EGR valve. There are times when I push on the gas or brake the car hesitates and gives a little jerk.
View 4 RepliesHonda - Accord :: 2006 - CEL Code For Battery Pack Deterioration Came Up
My husband and I just bought a 2006 Accord Hybrid with 123,000 miles on it. The IMA and check engine lights came on two days later. I had the diagnostic check done on it and the code for battery pack deterioration came up. I read online where this code could be caused by the 12-volt battery going bad, and as it had the original battery in it, and the check on that showed it needed to be replaced, we did that. Two days later, the lights were on again. So we know we're going to have to replace the battery pack, which we're okay with, but what we want to know is whether the car will still run once that battery is completely shot. So far, it's still showing a good charge on it - whether that means anything, I don't know. Also, if it will run without the IMA component, will we be doing any damage to the car if we let it go for a few weeks?
View 8 RepliesHonda - Accord :: CEL Code PO501 For CVT Speed Sensor Circuit
The check engine light came on in my 1997 Honda Accord and the OEM diagnostic says it's PO501 which is a performance problem in CVT speed sensor circuit. My mechanic is on vacation. Is it safe to drive short distances until I can have it fixed?
View 7 RepliesHonda - Accord :: From Reverse To Drive / 2 - 3 Second Pause Before It Engages - Code P0506
I have a 2003 Honda Accord with 207,000 miles on it. It's been doing the following:
- From Reverse to Drive, there’s a 2 - 3 second pause before it engages
- Sometimes when driving at higher speeds (55 - 70mph) then slowing down for a light or an exit, the car will sort of lurch/jerk around 30mph on the slow down. It’s very noticeable.
- Check Engine light has been coming on off for months. I thought it was a gas cap issue but the mechanic said it’s a P0506 code.
- Hard shifting in my day-to-day driving- Just fyi, we had the transmission rebuilt a year and a half ago.
We’ve taken it to the transmission shop twice and they said they don’t feel the things we describe and are getting no codes. We’ve taken it to the Honda dealer twice and the honda mechanic did a software update that didn’t fix the issue. I took it back and then he said he felt the hard shift/delay from R to D and that it is a transmission issue because the engine wouldn’t be engaged at all from R to D. The CE light wasn’t on for that visit and wasn't giving a code but then the CE light came back on when I was on my way back to the transmission shop. I read that there are specific things to do to try to clear the P0506 code (clean the throttle body, check for vacuum leaks, etc.) but our Honda dealer didn’t do any of those things.
Is there an engine issue related to the P0506 code that could make my car do these things but feel like a transmission issue even if it’s not (since I’m not getting any transmission codes)? Could I have two separate issues - whatever is triggering the P0506 code and then whatever is making the car shift hard, slow to engage, and jerk when slowing down? My transmission guy told me since they’re not feeling anything or getting any codes, the only thing left for them to do is take out the transmission. I’m at a loss and feel like I’m wasting their time, but there’s definitely something wrong.
Honda - Accord - Code :: P0420 - Catalyst System Below Efficiency / Bank 1
P0420 Catalyst System below efficiency -- bank 1
I've had this code for a couple months trying to trouble shoot it. My gas mileage has been affected, as I'm getting about 23/24 MPG city/highway. I replaced the upstream 02 sensor with am aftermarket Bosch variety( I'm not sure why a non-OEM one would make a difference, as long it's working correctly).
My car has 253k miles, the cat doesn't rattle and I don't smell any rotten eggs or anything, but it has to be clogged or the 02 sensor I got was defective. My engine runs fine and I don't have any problems accelerating or decelerating. It may still be the 02 sensor since the gas mileage decrease is so significant, or it could be my converter is really clogged up.
Honda - Accord :: Code P2647 - Rocker Arm Actuator System Is Stuck Open
Yesterday the check engine light came on 03 Accord EX 4-cyl auto, the code is P2647. According to the dealership and O’Reilly print out it can be a number of things. The car starts running rough after 2700 rpms, and then (if you keep pressing accelerator) dies.
So I can drive it now as long as I do not accelerate too much. (That is great for the gas mileage, but does not work on the on-ramps)I did replace engine oil and filter yesterday, but the engine light is still on with the same code. The car has 175K miles.
O’Reilly manual suggests replacing:
•VTEC Oil pressure switch
•VCT Solenoid
•Pressure switch
•Solenoid Valve Assembly
The Honda Dealership said it might be:
•VTC Oil Control in Valve Assembly
•Valve Timing Oil pressure in the switch assembly
Honda - Accord :: 2001 - While Starting And Stepping On Gas Car Not Going Anywhere
I have a 2001 Honda Accord (LX SEDAN 4 DOOR, 4 CYL). Am a bit paranoid after reading online about all the transmission problems people have with this car. The other day when I was starting up from the stop light it had a moment where I was stepping on the gas and it felt like I was in neutral-- not going anywhere. This is the only time it happened and it was only for a few seconds.
Wondering if you think this is the sign of an impending transmission failure or whether it just needs some kind of maintenance?
Honda - Accord :: 2001 - Increased Hum While Driving
So over the past year, I've noticed an increased 'hum' while driving in my 2001 Honda Accord Sedan. Originally this only occurred while going 80 on the Interstate. I just passed it off as going over the speed limit and tires then. Over the past few months however, I've noticed it occurring at speeds as low as 30-40mph. It's not deafening, but is a solid 'mmmmm' coming from what sounds like the rear left tire. When I make a right-turning curve the sound lessens or vanishes during that curve entirely, but a left-turning curve makes no change to the sound. As I slow to below 30mph, the sound disappears.
The rear tires are due for replacing soon, but I've driven on MUCH barer tires in college with no recollection of this sort of sound (in other cars). The wheel appears to be solid with no wobble as well.
Honda - Accord :: 2001 - Rear End Vibration?
So I've been experiencing some shaking in my automatic 2001 Honda Accord EX Coupe 3.0L V6. The shaking starts at about 40mph and can last up to about 55-60 mph when it starts to fade away or become unnoticeable. The shaking is a lot more noticeable when your on an incline and accelerating. The shaking feels as though it rocks side-to-side but my steering wheel doesn't shake or pull. I've gotten my car tires/wheels balanced, replaced the wheels/rims, go new tires, had everything balanced again, and got an alignment done.
Since I used to think that the shaking was more prevalent in the back end of the car, I replaced the sway bar link stabilizers as directed by a friend. Needless to say, none of those things stopped the shaking. My first set of wheels/rims had one bent rim, so it shook because of that and couldn't really distinguish that there was something else beyond the bent wheel that could cause the shaking. So that's why I had to replace those wheels and tires. My new wheels required hub rings so discount tire put those on when installing them.
I've had my car lowered using lowering springs, which dropped the car about 1.8-2 inches. I had that done over a year ago and really don't think that's what would have caused the shaking. I say that because I've had those springs for a pretty long time and I wasn't experiencing any shaking after installing them. I know that my car doesn't have a stock camber kit that allows for lowering the car. But I'm not worried about the camber even though it does wear out the inside of the tire faster than the outside. I've had my exhaust done as well.
It goes from the catalytic converter to the back (cat-back) with a 2.5 inch piping. There's no leaks or anything and it's not loose either. And those are pretty much the only things I've done to upgrade my car. Of course I get regular oil changes and I recently did a transmission flush (drain and fill). I've been reading up on what could cause the shaking, through online threads, and all I can see that might be the cause is the CV axles? They've had the same issues that I'm having, replaced the axles, and that fixed their shaking.
Honda - Accord :: 2001 - Speedometer Jumping - CEL Came On?
Recently I had a battery replacement and a wheel barring replaced. Once I picked up my car the speedometer started jumping. I took it back into the Sears auto place that did the work. They checked it out and then told me this was an electrical thing and that they weren't at fault. After about another day the 'check engine light' came on.
I recently moved so looked up an actual garage in TN that had good reviews and took the car in. They hooked it up to a computer and told me the speed sensor chip was bad. Since the car is a manual they said that it was ok to drive it but they wouldn't recommend that for too long while I saved money. I have seen lots of posts online about doing this yourself. I by NO means am a car person but I have seen that you can buy the speed sensor part pretty cheap online.
My questions are: Is the garage charging me an arm and a leg? Would it be a recommendation to buy the part online and then take it in to be fixed? And if so how do I know which ones are ok for my 2001 Honda accord?
Honda - Accord :: 2008 - After Cleaning Throttle Body Getting Code P0507 - High Idle?
08 Accord. After replacing the starter and cleaning the throttle body I keep having a CEL and the P0507 code.
Checked for leaks around intake, vacuum lines, etc. found none.
Tried the relearn procedure and still no luck. Car idea higher than normal ( just over 1000 rpms warm). Also feels like it wants to pull even when stopped.
So I figure I have either:-damaged the throttle body somehow cleaning it- Have incorrectly implemented the re learn procedure- missed a vacuum leak ( possible but doubtful)- or something else I don't know about
Honda - Accord :: 2001 - Smell Of Burning Coolant
So I noticed the smell of burning coolant a day after I got an oil change. My car wasn't overheating and my thermostat didn't jump at all. I open the hood and there's a little bit of smoke. I take it to a mechanic and they do a pressure check. They see dried coolant under the upper hose connecting the engine to the radiator. They tell me its the flange connecting that hose to the engine that's leaking low levels of coolant and it will cost 150 to fix.(not a gasket) I say go ahead. They're in the process of fixing it today and they call me saying "We got the part, and we're going to fix it but we think the thermostat isn't fully opening or closing which is causing the problem and it will be another 150 to fix". Now I looked up this mechanic and they have 12 1 star reviews on Yelp of people saying they were overpriced and the mechanics often piled on things once they got on.
My issue is essentially the mechanic said "This problem could happen again if you don't replace the thermostat" but he also said they're not sure if its a bad thermostat. Couldn't they check the thermostat easily??? Like I said I said besides the leak in the flange I haven't had any issues. The car warms up fine and the temperature NEVER spikes (I had a different car overheat and blow a gasket two years ago cause I didn't notice the temp gauge for 2 miles and I LEARNED MY LESSON) I always keep a careful eye on the gauge.
My question is isn't there an easy way to check the thermostat? The mechanic keeps pressuring me to fix it. Just to be safe I am just having them fix the flange and taking it to a mechanic I trust. (I couldn't take it to him before cause he's on the other side of town and I was paranoid my car wouldn't make it)