Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Cluster Won't Turn On / Fuel Pump Will Crank Over But Car Not Starting
So, before we diagnose further, i have my fuse #43 pulled because that has been the only thing that somehow magically makes my car run when its not plugged in. I believe I've been dealing with a bad distributor and haven't come up with the funds yet to mod it for a v6 mustang coilpack.
BUT as the title describes, this just started happening today. The cluster wont turn on, fuel pump is cranking over, and the starter will whine as it cranks but no spark. Is the distributor getting that bad or am i looking at something worse?
Golf V R32 :: Faulty Fuel Float Sensor / Wrong Fuel Pump?
R's at the dealer today for a faulty fuel float sensor, and they just called to let me know my vehicle has the wrong fuel pump in it. Seems mine has the pump for the Golf/Rabbit with the 4 cylinder engine and they need to keep the car until the part is in.
View 16 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: Cranks But Won't Start After Cluster Swap
I haven't been able to start the car since I did a cluster swap a few days ago. Both my keys fobs are adapted so it's not the immobilizer. I'm not even sure if this has anything to do with the cluster swap, but it seems like too big a coincidence for my car not to start all of a sudden. I've done a cluster swap before on my TDI and didn't have any issues.
Fuel pump primes when I open the door, I have spark, and I've done a throttle body alignment but it won't start.
Measuring Block 022 under instruments shows that everything should be fine as far as the cluster swap
With the new cluster adapted, VCDS is supposed to show the car's VIN and immobilizer ID under the first extra field in the instruments address. The immobilizer ID shows up correctly, but three characters in the middle of the VIN show up as ZXX for some reason:
It does show the full VIN and immobilizer ID under Engine> measuring block 081 though.
I even put the original cluster back in the car and it still doesn't start.
The car has a UM tune and was running great before this happened.
VCDS shows no fault codes.
Prius (2010-12) :: Speedometer And Fuel Level Indicator Blank - Instrument Cluster Failure
While traveling speedometer and fuel level indicated blanked out. No other problems--I could see our speed by using GPS.
Toyota service said a circuit board was burned out. I searched and found numerous such problems with 04 up to 09 and eventually (in 2012) Toyota initiated an extended warranty to cover replacement of the board.
Golf V R32 :: Fuel Gauge Reads Empty But Tank Is Full?
Full tank and the gauge reads empty. Has happened to me a few times. Occurs after a fillup and disappears after the car is left to sit for a while off. I would hate for this to happen on a long drive. Dealer hasn't been able to duplicate the issue. Am wondering if this might be related to the hiccup in some way. Also, am wondering if this is a fuse issue.
View 8 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: On Cold Start - Weird Noise - Using Wrong Coolant?
not sure if this is normal or not. usually ONLY comes when I turn my car on for the first time of the day. (cold start obviously, keep in mind its cold where i live at this time of year), there is a weird whistling like sound. goes away when the rpm gauge hits 10/ after 1 minute of the engine running. at odd times it will come on again after leaving the car off for a few hours, after work for example. I was told it because I'm using the wrong coolant??
View 4 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Airbag Light On After Seat Swap
I swapped my cloth seats for leathers today and the airbag light came on after... the seats were out of a 2000 golf, so I was expecting to have to splice wires, but, the connectors were the exact same on the cloth from my car and leathers from the donor car... so I just did a plug and play... I scanned with vcds and got these codes:
Address 15 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 1C0 909 605 A
Component: 1M AIRBAG VW51 02 0006
Coding: 12621
Shop #: WSC 00000
2 Faults Found:
00592 - Seat Belt Switch: Right (E25)
30-10 - Open or Short to B+ - Intermittent
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter: Passenger Side (N200)
32-10 - Resistance too High - Intermittent
I take it the passenger seat is the problem... I didn't clear the codes, I wanted to ask here first before I did if I need to do anything to connectors there or just the clear the codes?
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Airbag Light After Seat Swap
I have a 2004 Jetta which has the 2-wire seat belt sensor on the passenger side and a 4-wire sensor for the drivers side. I swapped seats from an older style MKIV which had no seat belt sensor on the passenger side and a 2-wire seat belt sensor on the driver side.
As of now the seat belt sensors are disconnected and I am throwing seat belt sensor codes for both passenger and driver side. I have already tried to clear the codes via VAGcom...took care of 2 ignitor codes, but not these seat belt switch codes.
Is it possible to splice in the 2-wires from the older seats to the correct 2 out of 4 wires coming from my car? What's the difference between the 4-wire and 2-wire connector on the driver side?
Also, reading through the DIY here: [URL] ..... It states that I would need a recoding of the Airbag controller in VAG-COM to deal with the airbag light. What this code is suppose to be?
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Rattle Snake Sound After Clutch Swap
2000 GTI all stock 220K miles
AEG motor
02J transmission
I just swapped clutch on the manual transmission of 2.0L 4 cylinder GTI.
Now every time I start the motor, I hear high pitched rattlesnake sound. It starts about 2-3 seconds after the motor starts.
The sound is coming from center of oil pan or downpipe area but can't tell how high on the motor's long block the source of sound is located at.
Check out the following youtube video. You can hear the sound at 9 seconds and it get really audible around 12 - 14 seconds and disappears around 21 seconds. I can hear this sound for the whole duration of motor running. The sound is not coming from the downpipe cover.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Clutch Pedal Is Rock Solid Hard After Transmission Swap
2004 Jetta 1.8 bought mainly as a parts car w /204K miles on it. Ran and drove fine, but the tranny had no 1st gear. Tried all sorts of things other than going inside the transmission and figured it is/was a bent shift fork. Clutch worked perfectly. Had another 02J tranny from 2003 1.8, so we swapped trannys. Could not get any response from the clutch.
Start the car in neutral and it won't disengage enough to shift into gear. Start it in gear with clutch pedal in and it is obviously slipping/burning/chattering. Have bled the slave cylinder to no end, have reverse pressurized it into the reservoir , etc, etc. Made up a block off plate to go over the end of the slave actuator and when the actuator is "blocked" from moving the clutch pedal is rock solid hard. Yet, the clutch acts as if the actuator isn't extending far enough. Have swapped out the original slave cylinder with the one from the '03, no change.
Removed tranny yesterday to check the condition of the throw out bearing and pivot and Pressure plate. All appeared fine. Reinstalled tranny and same issue.
Golf V R32 :: Fuel Level Sensor Failure / Gauge Went To Zero
In the last 24 hours my fuel level sensor is failing intermittently. After filling yesterday the fuel gauge went to zero and the MFD read "---" for any range or fuel calculations. Rebooted the car ( ) and it came back on, then off again. today it seems to be working, but I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop.
View 5 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Level Fine But Oil Light Has Come On
So I was waiting in line at a drive through, because Fast Food is the breakfast of champions. And suddenly my Oil Light started blinking. It beeped, then blinked. It didn't stay on solid.
So I figured I was suddenly low on oil. I then noticed my engine temp was pegged to the max. So I abandoned my Egg McMuffin (Not an easy choice by the way) and I pulled out of line into a parking spot and shut down my engine.
I gave it a few moments to cool down and checked the oil level. In the past my oil light has come on if I was low on oil and a 1/2 quart or so was all I needed. But after 20 minutes of cooling down, I checked the oil level and it was fine. Not even close to low.
I made some calls, talked to some people, ate a McMuffin and checked the level again. It was still good. So I restarted the car now that it was totally cooled down. It warmed up fine, right to normal temp, no overheating, no oil light and all seemed well. So I drove it home (About 12 miles) without issue.
Also, Prior to this issue (within a couple months) I switched to Synthetic Blend. And it may just be a coincidence, but my AC also failed about 3 days ago.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Instrument Gauge Cluster Swap?
I found a instrument gauge cluster out of a 2005 XLT that I would like to put into my 2005 XL. It has the tach that I miss. The mileage is less. Will I have any problems switching them - i.e.,: lights not working, etc? Will the onboard computer correct the mileage?
View 4 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Cluster Is Not Working / Sometimes No Gauges Or MFA
So I have been having issues with a cluster in a car I recently bought. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes no gauges or MFA, sometimes just no gauges. All of the dummy lights work, and the odometer has power, although it does not seem to record miles when the cluster is not working.
I checked for power, good. Looked in the Bentley for grounds, there are 3. Terminal 9&24 and a sender ground, terminal 7. 9&24 both show continuity, but I get zilch on the sender ground. Tried looking in the wiring diagrams and google but I cant figure out what a sender ground is or if it should have continuity?
Next step is to try another cluster, but I don't want to go through the trouble of switching it to a new cluster if the ground is bad.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: VR6 Misfire On Cylinder 4 - Low Compression Level Of 90
I am a new vr6 owner. I just purchased mine not to long ago. It seems to have developed a pretty mean misfire on Cylinder #4. It is also showing a low compression level of 90 on cylinder #4. all my other cylinders show somewhere between 105-110. I replaced my wires and my coilpack. It did not improve anything, infact, my car seems to run worse now. I am baffled as to what can be causing my misfire.
View 7 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Washer Fluid Level Light Is On
I removed my washer fluid reservoir and saw that I can just twist together the wires and it would keep my light off. That lasted a few days. And now the light is on. I tried soldering them to see if it was a bad connection but still the light is still on. How I can get it off?
View 5 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Add Brake Fluid As Level Slightly Low?
The brake light came on randomly yesterday, flashing foe about 5 seconds, then shut off. Hasn't come on since, but I looked at the brake fluid resovior and the level is about .5cm (.2inches) below the "min" marker.
Can I just open the resovior, pour in the fluid, recap it and go? I remember hearing from someone that if you open the resovior cap at any time, air rushes in and you must bleed the entire system before you can drive again
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 - Instrument Cluster Replacement
Currently my gas & temp gauges do not work, so I assume the cluster is shot or needs fixed etc. my question is can I simply replace it with a used one from eBay, or do I need to send this one back to be programmed? I was reading about the immobilizer which I assume the 2003 is subject to as well?
View 1 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Oil Level And Blinking Check Engine Light
I just bought a 2000 GTI with the 1.8 turbo. It was very affordable, but it had a few problems. On hard rides, the check engine light was blinking AND I think there was too much oil in the crankcase (I say "think" because the dipstick funnel is gone and I'm not sure how far down the dipstick should go -- new one is on order).
I got rid of the extra oil, and now if I keep the oil in the hatched area of the dipstick (with the dipstick pushed down as far as it goes), the check engine light will never blink even under hard driving. But with the oil that low, the oil light will flash and beep on hard turns. I was experimenting, adding a little oil at a time, and hoping to find the magical sweet spot where neither the check engine light nor the oil light would go off. Instead, tonight I found the opposite -- the sour spot where BOTH of them go off.
So now I'm thinking maybe I need to change to a thicker oil. This car has 124,000 miles on it and was recently refilled with 0w-40. On my last car (a 1994 Golf with the 2.0 liter and 140,000 miles), the oil light would beep on hot days. I solved that permanently by changing from 0w-40 to Mobil 1 15w-50.
Finally, I checked the codes and it said there was a misfire in #2 cylinder as well as general misfiring So I checked the plugs and discovered that the previous idiot had gapped the #2 plug at 1/8 inch! So I (the present idiot) regapped them all and the engine seems to run better, but maybe going for months with such a huge gap has already fried the #2 coil. Should I just replace it? (or all of them?)