Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Stalls Out In Stop And Go Traffic / Bang And Clutch Pedal Drops To The Floor
I have a 2005 VW jetta 2.0 engine 5 speed. Just replaced right control arm spark plugs wires and coil pack. I had a misfire only when it rained and it got rid of it! Driving home in stop and go traffic and My car stalls out a hear a bang and my clutch pedal drops to the floor. I had noticed some fluid loss but nothing was low I checked everything before I left work. I finally get it towed but I can not shift to first I can shift to 2 3 4 5 and reverse. I was in first when it stalled out during stop and go traffic while it was in first gear and i had the clutch pressed in. Everything Ive google says it is more than likely the Slave cylinder that is right below the air box. I found some that said it could be the release bearing in the gearbox for the tranny...
View 4 RepliesOldsmobile - Alero :: 2001 - Engine Idles Rough Till It Stalls
I have an 01 olds alero, I been having problems with the engine stalling out. i was told it may need a new fuel filter so I replaced filter and now it idles rough till it stalls. What to do next? I replaced the plugs 2 years ago also.
View 1 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Codes P1570 And P0121 / Engine Starts And Stalls
2001 vw cabrio 2.0 .. The car starts and stalls BUT only if you give it gas. I replaced the throttle body and did the throttle body alignment using vas-pc , no problems at idle but as soon as i give i gas it dies, and it seems to die quicker at higher temperatures. When it dies i get codes P0121 and P1570 i clear the code , do the alignment , and same thing happens over again. I also replaced distributor , crank sensor, maf sensor , spark plugs, wires , rotor, tried different pcm reprogrammed, no vacuum leaks, the only thing i can think of now is the ecm relay? but its missing so is it using the fuel pump relay ?
View 3 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 VR6 GTI - Idles On 3 Or 4 Cylinders / Runs Rough
2001 VR6 GTI....
Already done:
Replaced the coil pack and plugs
Measured resistance of plug wires (all at about 6K Ohm)
Replaced front O2 sensor
Replaced purge solenoid valve
Replaced coolant temp sensor
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pressure regulator
Replaced MAF sensor
Cleaned the throttle body
Cleaned the throttle position sensor
Ran a tank of seafoam treatment (injectors were new 6 mos ago.)
Checked running voltage of battery
It was smoking and stinking bad with a rich mixture. It improved with the MAF change but still runs like a farm tractor. Now it idles on 3 or 4 cylinders, runs rough through 3000 RPM then runs cleaner at above 3000 RPM, but only at light throttle. CEL is either on or flashing when driving.
Don't know what to do next - nice car not fun to drive like this. What this could be and how to test it?
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Engine Is Revving Causing Vehicle To Shudder
While braking, the car is revving up to about 1500 rpm and causing the vehicle to shudder and buck as if it wants to take off with no throttle input. The car is an automatic and this is the information relayed to me via my sister.
The car is a 2002 Jetta 2.0 automatic wagon.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - 4th And 5th Gear Won't Working Properly / Deceleration And RMPs Drops
My problem(s) are as follows:
I recently got a 2001 VW Golf 1.8T from a buddy in the Marines. He delivered it to me at my home almost 4 hours away, as described, reportedly without any issues. I got all of the paperwork transferred so that my wife could have a solid daily driver, only to discover ...
1) The vehicle in question was apparently used by a car audio company local to him, who has done some serious screwing with the electrical system in order to incorporate (and then remove) their crap.
2) When shifting through the gears, and coming to 4th gear, you get a couple of seconds of initial acceleration, followed by deceleration and RPMs falling, which in turn leads to the speedo dropping.
3) The same thing happens in 5th gear.
4) The only option is to downshift to a lower gear, which she did, and was apparently cruising along at 60 mph in 2nd gear, as 3rd gear was behaving the same way as 4th/5th upon downshifting. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I'm pretty sure this is a BAD thing .
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Car Stalls Whenever The Gas Gets To 1 / 4 Tank
This has been happening for awhile now, but whenever the gas gets to 1/4 tank and below (about 2 ticks from the red tick on the gauge) the car will stall for about 3 seconds then come back to life. If it happens while I'm stopped it will completely die and I'll have to restart it.
View 5 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Stalls While Driving Then Picks Up Again
The car starts well every time even though the revs go up then down for just two seconds before stabilizing at normal rev count. Sometimes while driving the car would just stall and loose power even though my foot will still be on the accelerator, if I pump the accelerator it will wake up and move on nicely like nothing ever happened. I've had this problem for the past two months now and it happens atleast 5 - 6 times a week randomly. the problems is beginning to get worse. The car has an automatic transmission. I've changed the fuel filter and air filter only in the last 20000kms. the MAF is ok because when i unplug it the car switches off and won't start again. every time i open the hood and rev the car a bit i can hear what sem to be huge suction of air somewhere next to the throttle body.
2011 Golf mk4, 1.8L...
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 VW 1.8T - Rough Idle And Often Stalls Out When Press The Gas
I have a 01 vw bora 1.8t and recently I let it sit for one day and now it has trouble starting when it's cold and when it does start it has a very rough idle and often stalls out of you try and press the gas. Once it has warmed up she runs fine. My check engine light is on but I have no way to take her down to a shop to get the codes read. What is wrong with my car? One of my friends told me it could be a cool pack or a sensor.
View 1 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 1.8T Does Not Stay On / Stalls Out On Cold Start
When the weather gets cold, (lower than 45 deg. F) my Jetta does not want to stay running. It turns over and starts just fine but it does not like to stay on. When I turn the key to the #2 position I can hear the fuel pump fire up and pressurize the system. I always attempt to start it after that, and after 1-2 seconds of running, it seems like it chokes itself out. I have the new coolant temp. sensor (green top), my MAF has been replaced, all spark plugs are new with the correct gap (approx. .030"), new air filter, I run 93 octane fuel.
The worst part is, once the car is warmed up (After forcing it fuel and starting it over, and over, and over again) it runs awesome! I have had this problem since I bought the car (about 2 years ago). The owner told me about it and mentioned that he has never been able to figure it out either (trips to the dealer included). I have been dealing with it for 2 years, but it is getting much worse. Over the past 2 days I have not been able to get my car to stay on long enough to get it to move.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: The Engine Light Flashes / Car Stalls
When you give it a decent amount of acceleration it starts to hesitate and kind of jump, the engine light flashes it kinda sounds like it want to stall. I'm not to good with the turbo motors. The car is a 2000 golf.
View 6 RepliesGolf/GTI VII :: Rough Idles And Stalls Out / Bank 1 And 4 Misfiring
My gti with 5k miles will be in the dealership 3weeks on Monday! No one has been able to diagnose the problem! I called VW corporate and they told me that the dealer was working with their tech support and engineers.
The problem is has really rough idle were it stalls out. Bank 1 and Bank 4 are misfiring. This is the part were they are stuck. Once they remove the oil cap the car runs perfect! It stops all misfires and idles perfect. They've ran smoke test, compression test, vacuum test. Replaced pcv, high flow fuel pump, intake manifold.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Engine Sounds Like Its Working Overtime / Car Stalls
I drive a 2003 Golf 2.0 manual. I've had this problem happen to me four times in my year-and-a-half of ownership -- once about three months ago and three times today.
Whether at highway or city speeds (60+ MPH or 30 MPH, respectively), power to the accelerator cuts out without warning. The engine briefly sounds like it's working overtime (but it could just be my foot on the accelerator pedal) and the tachometer needle struggles to stay at the RPMs. In a matter of seconds, the engine stalls and the needle gradually starts to fall. I can't tell you how dangerous of a situation this is to be in: 65 MPH on the highway with vehicles all around you, your car chokes, and you're losing speed.
The first time this happened to me three months ago, I had to hit my emergency lights and pull over to the highway shoulder. Turning the ignition off, then on, and attempting to start the car didn't work. I thought I was in trouble. Then I removed the key and tried it again. It was successful. I got to my destination (my parent's home) and they recommended I go see their regular mechanic for an inspection. He told me that the problem could be low fuel in the tank, as I did at the time. When the car's fuel tank is at a certain angle, the fuel pump doesn't pump fuel properly, messing up the whole combustion, and causing the car to stall. This explanation fit the situation I was in perfectly, as the fuel indicator had just come on when it occurred.
Today, the fuel indicator was just above the last 1/8 -- no fuel warning light -- and the car stalls three times (once on the highway to work, once on the highway home with no shoulders to pull over, and once on city road). I had prior experience about this and drive a manual, so I have attempted each time today to re-start the car while at speed. It was a scary situation the second time today: 9:30pm, dark, modest amount of cars on the road, on a twisty highway with no shoulders (California Highway 110 between Downtown and Pasadena) where each time you turn the ignition off, the headlights go out, the steering wheel goes stiff, and you're decelerating. Fortunately, I dropped only 25 MPH to 40 when I got the car running again when I remembered to remove the key first before re-starting.
Needless to say, rather than wait two days to get cheap gas at Costco (b/c I work tomorrow as well), I went to the 76 near my home and filled her up . Hopefully, this situation will not happen again, as I will be a lot more diligent about keeping gas in my tank.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: AEG Engine Constantly Stalls While Driving - No Diagnosis
2000 Jetta, 2.0 AEG engine with 220k miles, recently started intermittently stalling (about 15-20 minutes into my trip) while driving mostly on city streets but has also stalled on the freeway at 65mph. Fuel level is always > half full, verified against my tripometer. When it stalls, engine completely cuts off, all dashboard lights are all lit, and no power steering.
I have VCDS but know only enough to be dangerous My mechanic has no answers and I don't want to randomly throw new parts at this the car, hoping to resolve the problem. It's becoming seriously dangerous to drive, knowing it will die at least once on every trip. What's the chance the oxygen sensors need to be replaced ?
Symptoms
(1) Most of the time the engine just turns off, as if I turned off the ignition. Other times, I can catch the engine RPMs drop to ~300 and just hit the gas, which sometimes saves car from stalling.
(2) Immediately after it stalls, there is is rotten egg smell.
(3) Once stalled, the engine won't start back up again for at least 5 minutes. (turns over, but doesn't start)
(4) Confirmed error codes from VDCS: misfires on all cylinders and random
(5) Took it to my mechanic for diagnosis. They were unable to duplicate on a road test. Smoke test showed no vacuum leaks, road test monitoring data did not capture any additional faults, and found no faults running it heat soaked and parked. They captured sensor signal data and found no abnormal patterns. They feel replacing the O2 sensors is an expensive guess.
(6) Replaced the crankshaft position sensor after the car would not start at all, one morning. (discovered that the CPS tested at a faulty ~50k ohms). Bought a new one, installed it and it turned over immediately but the stall issue continues)
Fault Codes
Code:
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
P1649 - 35-10 - Missing Message from ABS Controller - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
16685 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2
P0140 - 35-10 - No Activity - Intermittent
seen separately
Code:
16517 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P0133 - 35-10 - Response too Slow - Intermittent
Note that I have been ignoring the ABS-related errors for 4+ years. (not a concern or priority). On the short list are ignition coil or crankshaft sensor. Both of which require my mechanic to replace, I think.
Golf V R32 :: Turbo Idles Then Stalls - Loud Backfire When Started To Increase Throttle
I have a mkv r32 turbo. It had C2 910cc software, car ran great. I had to change to UM 870cc software and injectors in order to get UM dsg stage 3 tune. I had it out for test ride, ran nicely for 2 miles. Then i started to increase throttle, a loud back fire, so i pulled over. It stalled, i restarted it, ran for about 5 secs at 14.5 afr, then sputtered to 10s afr, the stalled out completely.
Had it towed home, all 6 plugs were black. VCSD mobile log states multiple misfire and misfire #6. I put new plugs and switched coil packs, same issue.
Oldsmobile - Leaks - Cutlassciera :: 1994 V6 Idles Rough And Usually Stalls If Put It In Gear When Start The Engine
I have a 94 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, (3.1L V6 GM3100 engine). When I start the engine it idles very rough and usually stalls if I put it in gear. Eventually once it warms up I can drive it, but when I do drive it's extremely sluggish on accelerations and acts like its about to die. At constant speeds it runs mostly ok. We figured it was a vacuum leak, but we've tried every test we can think of to find it and talked to a couple mechanics and tried their tests and it passed all of them. Supposing it isn't a vacuum leak, then what it might be?
View 4 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Revving In Idle
1.8T revving in idle and I can't figure out if it's injectors or fuel pump.
View 3 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Car Has Sputtering And Revving With Misfire
I recently bought a 2001 Golf 1.8t and everything was running smoothly until a few days ago.
I had to change the timing belt because I have 80,000 miles on my car, and the day I was going to my mechanic, I scanned the codes, and the p0301 and p0303 codes came up. The two codes are cylinder one misfire and the cylinder three misfire. So, I switched the two bad coils with the supposedly good coils to see if the codes changed, and when I scanned it again, the bank 2 lean 1 code came up. I had my mechanic look at the spark plugs and when we checked the plugs, there was oil ABOVE the plug, leading us to believe the misfire was from oil leaking in because of bad spark plug tube seals/valve cover gasket.
Regardless, I bought four new factory coils and four new factory spark plugs and factory valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. I replaced them today and I was hoping, in a perfect world, my misfire would stop and my car would stop sputtering and revving and fluttering my RPM's. I was wrong. The only other thing under the hood that I can think would have anything to do with it is that the PCV hose is just about fully ripped, but I'm not sure If that would still make my car sputter and cause my car to misfire.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Coolant Reservoir Drops Significantly
I have a MK4 2.0L 8v 5 speed and recently I started making trips out to the country that last a bout 25 minutes one way and I usually drive pretty spirited the whole way.
I recently noticed that after each trip my coolant reservoir drops significantly, about 1/2" or 3/4". The oil level never changes and the engine never passes 90C on the gauge.
The outside temperature is about -10C most of the time and I always have it at operating temps before I really get into it.
I can't decide if this is normal because the engine isn't overheating (as far as the gauge says) or a problem because it's using a lot of coolant. I've never been to a track with this or any other car so I'm not sure about the effects from hard driving.
The engine revs to 6.2k RPM and I never go over 5k.