Golf/GTI VI :: Engine Temperature Gauge Drops After Warm Up - Is This Normal
I have never seen any of my other cars do this and I just want to see if this is normal. It happens like clockwork every time I get in the car with a cold engine. I let the car sit while the RPMs are high and as soon as the tach drops I start to drive the car softly. The engine temp gauge reaches normal operating temp in a normal amount of time, it does not just jump to the middle. But after about 1 minute it just starts falling quite quickly, as you can see in the video. It's very predictable - happens every time I drive it so it was easy to catch on video. I don't notice any difference in engine performance. Is this normal for a VW GTI or is something wacky going on?
You can skip to 19-20 seconds in the video to see the needle drop.
Golf IV R32 :: Startup Then Drops To Almost Dead And Goes Back Up To Normal Idle
So every morning I get in my car and start it up. Usually, It starts right up, hit 1.5K RPM and then drops to almost dead (~3-400RPM) and then goes back up to a normal idle. This has always concerned me but never thought too much of it since the car goes right back to normal after a few seconds. Today the car did the normal startup and then died. What is causing this?
View 4 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: RPMs Rise To About 1300 Then Drops To About 300 And Back Up To 1200 Steady On Cold Start
It started snowing going down to 10-15 degrees during school hours. and whenever i go to turn my car on it starts but immediately the RPMs rise to about 1300 and then immediately drops to about 300 then immediately back up to 1200 but stays steady until it warms up then drops to normal about 700. i understand the cold start when it idles high until it warms up but why does it drop then come back up?
View 3 RepliesJeep - Cherokee :: 2001 - Very Bumpy Initial Idle / Car Shake Back And Forth
I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport edition, automatic transmission, about 100k miles. Recently, when I turn on the engine -- sometimes -- it is very loud, and the car really shakes back and forth (in place) with the engine. It almost feels like the car is going to die. It feels like a very bad idle. If I wait, nothing changes. If I turn the car off, wait, and turn it back on, nothing changes. If I hit the gas, it continues, but decreases very quickly and by the time I hit a stop sign or red light (let's say 100 yards away), the car is more or less fine; no more fear that it's going to die, although there's still some noise that seems like it's coming from somewhere between the transmission and engine. I had the starter replaced last June (when it went kaput) and replaced the idle control valve a couple of months ago (the car kept dying when I came to a complete stop). I mainly drive it to/from work, about 50 miles each way, going 45-80 mph on a hilly freeway, and there have been no problems while driving.
View 2 RepliesGolf V R32 :: Not Blowing Warm Air At Idle But Heat Comes Back Under Load?
My car is not blowing warm air at idle when warmed up. When under load driving the heat comes back then chills down when stopped at a light or traffic. I did a coolant flush by fill and gravity drain earlier this summer and have had zero issues with overheating or anything else. Could there be air in the heater core or is my water pump or thermostat failing?
View 4 RepliesFord - F150 :: Clutch Pedal Drops To Floor - No Back Pressure
So this has happened a few times pedal drops with no back pressure then give a bit pull it back up by hand and it's fine has happened 4 or so times in the last year. I'm reluctant to replace slave and master cylinders could it be anything else? 87 Ford F-150 hydraulic clutch
View 10 RepliesDodge - Intrepid :: 2004 V6 Runs Erratically - Revs Up Then Drops Back Down Again
We inherited a 2004 Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7L V6 with about 110K mileage. Basic problem: sometimes on startup the car runs terribly. It's like a cartoon car--it wheezes, bucks, snorts, revs up, drops back down again, etc., and cannot be driven. You know as soon as you turn the key whether or not it will run correctly. Sometimes when you turn the key, it starts up fine and runs fine. We've taken it to two different repair shops--our local guy and the dealership-- several times, and $1,700 later, it still happens. These are the repairs they have done: replace the map sensor, replace the camshaft position sensor, replace the crankshaft position sensor, replace the powertrain control module, replace the throttle position censor and, finally, replace the pigtail for the map sensor.
The codes usually indicate a problem with the map sensor. As a matter of fact, the last time we took it in while it was running terribly, our mechanic unplugged the map sensor while it was running and the engine ran smoothly while it was unplugged. This is what caused him to put in a new pigtail for the sensor. Anyway, after that last repair, a few uses later, the car acted up again. We've learned that if you let the car sit for a few minutes after a bad start up, it will often start up fine the next time you try. One note is that the problem has not occurred as often this summer as it did in the cooler months.
GTI 337/20th Anniversary :: 2002 - While Coming To Stop Idle Drops To 600 And Then Back Up To Normal?
ive actually owned 4 volkswagens one of which was a 2002 big turbo gti which made 325whp..... so now i have a 2005 Jetta GLI with about 41k on it. This car has a serious idle problem. Start up is fine and it runs great and hits boost perfect. It has a 6 speed, APR chip intake, forge DV, and DP. When i come to a traffic light and come to a complete stop after about 10 seconds it hiccups and the idle drops to abou 600 and then back up to normal idle. It will also do it if i just leave the car running in neutral it will randomly stutter. I have new spark plugs and new fuel injectors and i only use 93.
View 1 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Loud Screeching Noise On Initial Start Up
My jetta started making a loud screeching noise on initial start up, it only last a split second and sometimes it doesn't do it, I read it maybe my bushings need greased, but I didn't know if maybe it was something to do with my flywheel bc with my window down and at idle I can hear a faint tapping noise, I push the clutch in the noise goes away, car starts up fine with no hesitation and also shifts smooth...
View 8 RepliesNissan - 300zx :: Engine Surge At Highway Speeds For Several Seconds Then Drops Back Down To Normal
my 1990 Nissan 300zx with 136,000 miles often surges at highway speeds for several seconds then drops back down to normal. the surge is usually 1000 rpm. does not happen if not in overdrive, and will not happen unless having been driving for 15 minutes or so. also seems to occur more on hot days (80 degree +) than on cool days. mechanic has looked at this several times but not yet able to determine why.
View 2 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 1998 - Temp Gauge Shooting To High In Just Seconds Then Drops Back To Normal
For reasons I can't figure, the Temp gauge on the wife's Explorer is shooting from normal to high in just seconds. Then, it drops back to normal. When I looked at it this afternoon, I noted 2 things.
1) There was no sign of a coolant leak or overheating.
2) There wasn't ANY coolant in the tank!!!!!!!
The truck has evidently been running fine while this is going on.
Civic - Honda :: 1998 - Overheating / Temperature Drops Back To Normal When Reach A Consistent Speed
1998 Honda Civic EX. This has been a great car and have got a ton of good miles on it. The problem that I am having now is with the temperature gauge. The measurement is completely all over the place while driving. While moving around town, the gauge shows the temperature VERY hot. As soon as I reach a consistent speed, the temperature drops back to normal (moves very erratically!). The gauge seems to get even hotter while idling. Another issue (may or may not be related) is the heat coming out of the vents is only working while the car is in motion. While stopped, it pumps out cold air. The temperature immediately changes when I get going again. Both problems seem to be getting worse. The car has coolant, and all other levels of fluids are normal.
View 14 RepliesFord Excursion :: Back End Lower Than Front And Drops Dramatically While Towing - Spring Swap On A Lift
So this may be a really dumb question, but here goes. I have a new to me 2001 v10 gas 4x4 ex. It has obviously been lifted in the past. The springs seem totally shot as the back end is quite a bit lower than the front and drops dramatically while towing. I am adding a helwig and have a wd hitch but have not set it up yet. So my question is can i do the spring swap? It would seem that i would need to address whatever changes are made from the stock ride but im not sure. I like the current lift and would be fine keeping it and adding the lift from the new springs.
View 14 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 - Coolant Gauge Drops To Zero Erratically And Then Comes Back
My truck is essentially stock except EGR DELETE. Lately I am seeing my coolant gauge in the cluster drop to zero instantly when the truck is warm. A quick glance to my edge monitor shows my ECT temp fluctuating wildly (but not stone cold) ranging from 65-190'ish degrees. The weird thing is even when it's showing low on the edge, Gauge showing nothing, it kicks my fan in. I would have thought that shouldn't happen because it's still showing a value ( very low yes) but maybe it pops into limp mode?
I am also having other gremlins like driving along all warmed up, come up to a hill and if I back out of the throttle, boost drops to zero and even with holding the pedal to retain the speed I am at, it just drops speed with no boost.. I then have to stomp on it and the boost will ramp back up. It will show something like 85% VGT but zero boost.. Is it normal to show zero boost with 66% vgt at idle in Park with no boost? Getting all sorts of codes lately. The coolant one is very intermittent (every drive several time but not every minute)..
Golf/GTI VI :: Clutch Clicking At Initial Travel / Wind Noise From Doors At Highway Speed
So far from reading up here is my list:
1) Water pump.
Its not leaking or making noise at this time.
2) Clutch clicking at initial travel.
Noticed this on the first couple miles.
3) Smelly A/C.
This is ongoing
4) Wind noise from doors at highway speed.
Noticed this also
5) Wastegate rattle
Don't hear any rattle, or I am not narrowing down the sound when it happens.
Anything else I should add?
Golf IV R32 :: Sluggish On Initial Acceleration And Very Slight Backfire - Camshaft Hall Sensor Loose
I had been driving around for a few days and the car had been feeling a bit sluggish on initial acceleration and there was also a very slight backfire.
Just seemed to have lost some crispness. No fault codes thrown with VAGCOM.
Found one of the Camshaft Hall Sensors loose. I have had this before with the exhaust cam sensor but this time it was the inlet one. The bolt just comes a bit loose and the sensor can swivel around very slightly if you move it with your hand.
It seems to be enough to upset the the performance but not enough to throw any codes - after all it is still working perfectly sending a signal as far as VAGCOM is concerned.
Just need to nip it up again with an M5 Allen key and you are golden. One with a ball end makes it easier to get to. Just regained about 20 HP
Pic for information ....
Celica :: 1990 Vehicle Will Not Start Back If Warm
I have a 90 celica. I start it up and it idles fast until it warms up. then it runs great until i turn it off. then it will not restart! i went to the gas pump. it would not start after i pumped gas. it turns over but wont start. the next day it starts up fine. it does this all of the time. when it wont start there is no spark coming from the coil except when you let up on the keyl it sparks once.
View 5 RepliesPrius Plug-in 2012-15 :: Switching Back To EV During HV Warm Up
Obviously this doesn't work if you are out of EV? I figure I am essentially still in EV during the warmup cycle so I'd prefer to have that HSI up instead of the HV one.
View 9 RepliesFord A/C :: 1991 - Warm Air Blowing / Compressor Will Come On And Go Right Back Off
To start I have a 1991 super duty with a 7.3 in it. I replaced the evaporator, dryer and orifice tube. I added 4 cans of Freon and the a/c still blew warm so I added another can same result. I put one of the throw away gauges on the truck and it read empty so now I'm mad thinking it all leaked out only other option I could think of was to replace the condenser so went to break the lines to change it and Freon came spewing out so I tightened the lines back up and added another can of Freon still warm.
I got good gauges and hooked them up to high and low sides. High side was reading 100+ and low side was around 100 maybe a little lower. Oh yeah the compressor will come on and go right back off. So I let some of the Freon out and dropped the pressure down to 50 the high side was still a little below 100 so I let a little more out and now there is no Freon in the system again.
The lines never got cold and the dryer stayed warm the whole time. The first time I put Freon in before I started replacing stuff the dryer would get ice cold. My only thought is maybe the compressor is bad but I was told it was just replaced but Freon was never put in it. Oh and when I put the new parts in I replaced the orings in the compressor and put new oil in the compressor.