Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F250 Making Noise While Applying Brakes - Vibrates Violently At 65 - 70mph?
I have a 1999 ford f250 lariat 4x4 with 236,000 miles. Recently I have noticed when I am applying the brakes it sounds relatively normal until about 30 mph then it sounds almost like I have a flat tire or I'm running over a rumble strip, It's almost like a popping sound but a deeper sound.. I'm not sure how to describe it. The truck also vibrates violently when I reach speeds above 65-70 mph. Until about a week ago I could go 100 mph with no vibration whatsoever.
View 6 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1983 - Vibrates Around 35 MPH - Shaft Bearing Broke - Replace Trans?
I noticed a strange vibration in the 83 Ranger I own, it has the 2.3 and a 4 speed. When getting up to speed around 35MPH it would start vibrating, and the speedometer needle would bounce around and read slower than it was actually moving. This would start in 3rd gear, and continue thru 4th unless I let off the gas while it was in gear, then it stopped and worked normally. I put a grease seal in the tail section when I first got the truck, and when I pulled the driveshaft again today the seal was mangled and bent, plus there are metal particles around the main shaft where the seal goes. I figure the tail shaft bearing is shot, and I also found damage to the yolk with the U-joint, the shaft has a worn spot about 1/3rd the way around.
View 2 RepliesSanta Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Vibration On Steering Wheel When Applying Brakes
I have a Santa Fe 2010 2.4 awd 6AT with 20000km, I live in Ushuaia, Argentina, here the use of salt is normal in winter (a lot of salt). I have one winter and the second is coming with this SUV. Today I was in a road at 120km/h (75mph) and I had to apply brakes. In that moment I noted a little vibration on the steering wheel. After release brake pedal, the vibration disappeared. I checked again with same results, is been posible that my brake discs could be damaged or something is wrong with the brake system? I didn't have any light of malfunction. What is the normal life of brakes discs and pads in a santa fe with normal use?
View 13 RepliesLexus LS 2007+ :: Gauge Needle Have Slight Pulsing Effect When Applying Brakes
I dimmed my gauges to 1/4 brightness and went for a drive at night. When applying brakes or speeding from a stop...the needles have a slight pulsing effect. LS460 ....
View 14 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Replaced Front Brakes Now ABS Goes On A Lot
I had to replace the tie rods in my mazda b2300 and the mechanic also replaced the brake pads.
Now when I drive, I can hear the pump for the brake fluid going on and off when I'm not even using the brakes and the ABS goes on a lot too.
He tried resetting the computer by unplugging the battery for a bit but it's still doing it.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2006 - Stalling When Slam On Brakes
Little back story, truck sat up for 2 years. Had 1/2 tank of gas in it that time. I had to do a complete motor swap. I been driving for past couple of days. Had it stall on me while I was waiting on wife to come out of store. Thought it was just bad gas. Today I was heading to town and had to slam on brakes and it started to stall again. It shut off. I cranked it back up and it runs fine till I start slowing down. then it wants to die.
I can keep my foot on gas petal and little and it will stay running. I got to where I was heading and put it in park and it idled fine for a few seconds and then I could hear a whine from the fuel tank. Sounds like the fuel was having a hard time, like it was fighting the pressure build.
Thing is It cranks right back up and drives fine as long as I dont come to quick stop or set idling for a few seconds. I can hear the pump straining, so I am assuming that when I keep my foot on gas a little the pressure is staying lower and not as much is being bypassed and the pump is fine. I think the pump is on its way out but wanted to hear what yall think.
I do have a brand new IAC valve that I bought and did not get a chance to use on the blown motor.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Truck Jerks When Hit Brakes In The Rain
I tried to explain this to a garage in January with no luck. When it is raining I hit my brakes and my truck jerks like whiplash. Softly hitting brakes doesn't do it, normally hitting them does it (only in the rain), I had some welding done after I went to the garage.... They fixed the front passenger side now it feels like it is under me and it is now doing it when I brake in reverse too... I bought it October 2012 and it was safety inspected until October 2014. Trying to decide if it is worth keeping. I want to keep it but when I go to a garage they see dollar signs. It only acts up when it's raining. And I had the welding done in January and it was fine, until I got new tires last week.
View 12 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Rear Drum Brakes Not Working
Received the truck, 1989 Ranger XLT long bed single cab from my mom. It had been used by my younger brothers for some years, and then sat at mom's for a couple years.
It needed new front brakes badly, so replaced rotors, and pads. No unexpected problems there.
Looked at replacing the rear. Both adjuster cables were initially broken, so they obviously weren't adjusting, or braking. Replaced with a hardware kit, and shoes, and drums. Its the 9" drums, BTW.
Still not actually braking. I can tell this, when at a stop sign in the winter, with the brake pedal held down, and the backs will still spin, with the tranny in D. Even on gravel or grass, this'll happen.
One shop told me this is because the axle seals are leaking. THey've never leaked badly, and the axle fluid isn't low, by and shade of the imagination. Also, this theory falls apart, when the parking brake works just fine, right? Its just hydraulically that they don't work.
I've since replaced the wheel cylinders, the brake line from the frame to the rear axle, and the master cylinder. No change. Bleeding them doesn't seem to be a problem; i.e. no lack of or little fluid witnessed, it seem fine.
Also have bypassed the RABS valve for about a year or so, and its made no difference. Last fall I pulled the drums off, and manually adjusted them, and it didn't seem much better either.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Growling Noise On Deceleration With The Brakes
On deceleration with the brakes (not coast to slow) I get a growling. Sometimes a bit worse than others. Seems to get worse coming up to about 20mph from speed. No other time. I was thinking front wheel bearings as the load up from deceleration. But I just jacked it up and could not find anything that felt or sounded wrong. No play or grind or "bad" feelings in either of the fronts. Front end recently rebuilt, new tires too.
View 9 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1992 - Front Brakes Pulling To Right
All I did was take wheel off to tap a stud and I saw the inboard pad shim came off. So I removed the shim and reinstalled everything and the wheel is severely pulling to the right. Yesterday I took the caliper off but did not take off hose, cleaned slide pins and lubricated with anti seize. Still pulling to right bad. Don't hear any squealing or grinding. But pass side wheel is definitely hotter than drivers side. One mechanic said he thinks it would be a bad hose before replacing caliper. What could it be?
View 8 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - At Start Up No Idle - Brakes Too Sensitive?
My manual 5 speed 99' 2WD 2.5L Ranger is starting to have some small problems here and there. My main concern is when I start the vehicle sometimes, there is no idle. The vehicle will turn over and if I do not hold the gas pedal down it will die immediately after about 2 seconds.
If I hold the gas down so the RPM's stay up (Around 700 RPM's or so, something just a little above 0 to keep it from dying) after about a minute, sometimes few minutes the idle will kick in and I do not need to hold my foot on the gas pedal to keep the truck from dying.
This is about all I know from the problem besides that it does not matter how long my truck is sitting. For example, my truck was sitting for 5 days and I came home and started it up just fine, but after I drove it a few minutes later and stopped driving, when I went to drive it about an hour later the symptoms came back again.
Also, My brakes are acting a little funny. I went through when I first got the vehicle and bled the brakes, took the front rotors in to auto zone or another shop and had them fixed up, and new brake pads. Sometimes when I first start driving the brakes are extremely sensitive, to the point where I apply a little bit of pressure and my truck will start skidding. This goes away after driving for a little bit though.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 - Rear Brakes Locking Up Very Easily
I just had new shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders, drums, leaf springs, rear shocks, and shackles put on. The brakes were done about 4 or 5 months ago and the springs and shocks just a few weeks ago. The rear brakes were locking up after I had the work done, but I thought they were just too tight. I loosened them a little but it only worked a little.
Now it's starting to lock up pretty much every time I apply the brakes. The ABS kicks on and the rear tires skid. I took the drums off today and didn't see any leakage or anything out of the ordinary. They weren't too tight and I readjusted them but they weren't out of adjustment much if at all. I looked at the Ford symptom chart and it says for brakes that lock up easily there could be sticking or binding components. I didn't see any. Then it says check parking brake components.
Now I see they didn't hook up the equalizer bracket that goes to the front leaf spring hanger when they changed my springs so I assume thats why my parking brake pedal goes to the floor. Then it says check the shoes and linings, which are fine. The last thing it says is to check the fluid control valve. Which I'm guessing is the prop valve.
The only way to check it according to Ford is swap it for a known working valve. One person told me that it could actually be a bad brake booster check valve. Is that possible? Anything else that's common? It's got 272,000 miles on the frame but everything's been changed that typically wears out at least once.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Brakes Cut Out When Pulling Up To Stop Lights Toward The End And ABS Kicks On
I recently changed the front pads and rotors on my 2002 Ford Ranger 2wd and I'm having some troubles now. Occasionally when I'm pulling up to stop lights toward the end of my braking i can feel them cut out and the ABS kicks on. It's a very intermittent problem, and it only happens at low speeds. When I try to induce the fault it never happens, it only seems to after an extended period of braking going less than 10 mph. I'm very confused, and I was thinking about changing out my calipers unless know what might be happening.
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - Rear Brakes Howling And Locking Up
I have a 2004 Ranger 4x4, 4.0, auto and have trouble with the back brakes howling, locking up and generally driving me nuts. I've replaced the drums, shoes, cylinders, emergency brake cables and all the hardware. We've bled all 4 numerous times, blown out the lines, looked for leaks and done all we can think of. What am I missing?
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1940 Pickup - Upgrading To Power Brakes
I have my 1940 Ford pickup on an 86 Ranger chassis. I'm finally to the point where I can drive the truck a little (still not running right) and I'm thinking about upgrading to power brakes. I have used the entire braking system from the Ranger in this build. What's involved in upgrading? Right now, there's a standard Ranger master cylinder hung on the firewall and attached to a Ranger pedal hanger assembly on the other side of the firewall, so I have all Ford parts to interface with. Also, what is the diameter of the booster and how deep is it from front to back and will the upgrade require a different master cylinder?
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - ABS Warning Light / Rear Brakes Locking Up
I have a '99 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD. I've been having this problem with my rear brakes locking up on me while slowing down and pressing the pedal to stop the forward movement. There are four components which could cause the problem. My OEM Ranger Repair Manual suggested to replace the Proportional Control Valve which I did however that did not correct the problem. I don't have the Brake nor the ABS Warning light coming on and they check out OK during the start up. I have no problems braking from any speed except when coming to a stop. I inspected my front disk and the rear shoe brakes and they seemed to look OK. The other components which could cause the problem are the Control Module, RABS valve and the Speed Sensor. My question is: If any of these components malfunction, shouldn't the ABS Warning Light come on?
View 2 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 XLT - Turn Signal Stops Blinking When Brakes Depressed
99 Ranger XLT 4.0 4WD Automatic. With the turn signal blinking and I depress the brake the turn signal stops blinking until I release the brake. Where to start.
View 2 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1990 - Rear Brakes Locked Up When Hit The Brake Pedal Hard
I have a 1990 4x4 ford Ranger, the little truck was purchased in early 2008 as a work truck but has ended up becoming my main vehicle, it has been a good truck for the most part but know I am having some brake issues, well have been having for some time but they seem to come and go. Usually it happens when I have to hit the brakes hard, the rear brakes lock up, I replaced the master cylinder months ago and thought that fixed it, then a month later it happened again. The last time it happened was friday, the time before that was in march 09'.
I have searched this online and found numerous try this but the original poster never comes back to say if the problem is fixed or what fixed it. My ABS light DOES NOT come on when this happens, it does function properly, it illuminates when the key is turned on then goes off. My parking brake no longer works either but I think that is from me "driving thru" the locked up rear brakes. I plan on replacign both drums and shoes within the next week but would like an option to repair the locking up issue.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Poor Brakes At Low Speed And Sucking Noise From Pedal To Booster Connection
Odd thing on the 97' Ranger that showed up today. I was backing out of the spot at the local Shell station, (on an incline) and the pedal went to the floor. Never happened before. I pumped the brakes a few times, and they came back. On down the street, slowing for the stop sign, pedal went to the floor again.
Not throwing codes, fluid levels are good, only seems to happen at lower speeds/idle. Sometimes pumping brings the brakes back, sometimes they come back all of a sudden.
I can hear a "sucking" kind of noise coming from where the pedal connects to the booster, up under the dash. I looked at it, and nothing *appears* to be broken.
It almost feels like the pads are against the discs, and the pistons/calipers have to reach for them before the brakes apply. (If that makes any sense)
There should be about 50% of life left on the pads, but i haven't pulled the fronts wheels yet to look.