Civic - Honda :: 2003 - High Engine Speed But Very Slow Acceleration
Recently, my 2003 manual honda civic accelerates very slowly, even the engine speed goes up to 4000 rpm. Usually it takes up to 1 minute to reach 60mph on high way. Is the clutch getting bad?
View 5 RepliesTiguan :: Sudden Loss Of Power Right After First Acceleration When Engine Started
Lately having the following issues with my Tig.
When starting up the engine on cold start (or after having the car sit for about 30 minutes) after about 10 - 20 seconds; pretty much right after first acceleration the car all of a sudden looses all power. RPM fall down even when accelerating. Accelerating more only let's the engine stall more.
5-10 seconds later the engine functions normal again.... What problem could that be ?
Blazer - S-10 :: Engine Started Clacking And Lost Acceleration Power Going Uphill
Going up a hill, my engine started clacking and I lost acceleration power. (yes, I was in overdrive - which I now know I shouldn't have been). I immediately pulled off the road and into a gas station. Upon stopping, my oil pressure gague dropped to zero and my engine temp maxxed out. The temp was fine until I stopped. I let the engine cool off for an hour.
After listening to it for a few seconds, I was told that I had a problem they couldn't fix. We put a compression fix oil additive in it to see if that would work. It did raise the oil pressure when cold and when running with the RPMs up, but after running for a few minutes, the pressure would drop to zero on idle. At that point, they suggested that I shouldn't drive it anymore. I then rented a box truck and an auto trailer and trailed my truck the rest of the way.
I'm now in Fort Collins, Colorado and have a dilemma. I had a local mechanic look at the truck and he also agrees that I have a failed/failing rod bearing. (back of the engine near the firewall)
The question is to repair or abandon the vehicle. I'm not a mechanic and can't do the repair myself. It has 158K miles and has been meticulously maintained. Unless I also damaged something else, the rest of the truck is in good shape. Is rebuilding the engine possible or even worth it?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 - Blowing White Smoke - Low Power - Rattling Noise From Engine - Broke Down?
Moving my worldly goods from California to Oklahoma in a rented 26' box truck with my wife following in our '02 F350 loaded to the gills with my lathe, mill, air compressor, weld and assorted machinery. Just west of Deming NM it started to blow lots of white smoke and down on power. Some rattling noises from the engine when throttled up & won't reach 3000RPM.
Had it towed to an impound yard for storage. Plan on sending a flat bed to pick it up when we get to Tulsa.
Any experience with a tilt back trailer capable of loading & transporting this truck that weighs around 17,000 pounds? My plan is to continue on to Tulsa & make arrangements from there.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Slow Tap Sound Coming From Engine
My 2002 7.3 engine makes a slow tap sound...
View 2 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Slow Start - Check Engine Light On?
I have a 2000 f350 7.3 got a check engine light that turns off when rpms go up and a slow start. My mechanic said that there were no codes being blown, what is going on?
View 11 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 2004 - Clicking / Rattling Noise In The Front Of Engine
I have a 2004 explorer that has a clicking/rattling noise in the front of the engine. What i found is that the bottom pulley has a sleeve or ring inside of that pulley that is just floating loosely back and forth. What this is or what it is supposed to be ??? If it is a bad part, what is the best way to fix it ?
View 12 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Service Engine Light At Acceleration Only
So i replaced the faulty injector and the truck starts up great and runs great. The only issue is that now when i accelerate, the SES light comes on until i let it up a little. If i am at cruising speed or just a steady speed the light goes off. I havent checked for codes yet because the light didnt stay on. I have AE and know how to use most of it. Is there something i should be looking at? Could it have something to do with the Blue/Gray CPS i installed or maybe there could still be an air bubble in the oil rail from when i drained the rail ? I have a DP tuner and stage-1 injectors. Regardless it sure is nice to have my truck back out on the road. It was a horrible 3 weeks without it.
View 14 RepliesFord - Explorer :: Sudden Loss Of Oil Pressure / Engine Rattling / Check Gauges Light On
So, last December, I was sitting at a stop light, when my engine suddenly started rattling. "Check Gauges" light on, ZERO oil Pressure..
Took car to mechanic, he removed the valve covers, and scoped out the timing chains with a camera, and found everything intack, and no chips out of the timing guides (125K miles on the engine). no sludge, nothing.
Engine runs fine (for 5 seconds at a time) no issues. Removed Intake to check the Oil Pump Drive Gear, all is well.
Removed Oil Pan Inspection Plate, All is well. ZERO plastic chips in the oil pan from timing guides, ZERO sludge, all is clean.
Back up to top of engine, pull the Oil Pump Drive Shaft using needle nose pliers from the top of the engine. BUT!!!
Only the top 8 inches of the Oil Pump Drive Shaft comes out! The bottom gear is not present! Is it still in the oil pump?
OK, so I need a new oil pump drive shaft. no Problem.. BUT: how do I get the broken oil shaft out of the engine before I put a new one in? Use a magnet? Rubber hose?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Crank No Start Sometimes - Stutter / Stalls And Slow Acceleration
I have 2001 F250 7.3L 261k miles.
Over the last few months, I have noticed that my truck is taking longer & longer to start after sitting for a long time (i.e. every morning, after work, etc.) When the problem first started (3-4 months ago) it would crank for 2 seconds & nothing so I would turn it off, let the "wait to start" light go off again (depending on outside temp 10-20 seconds) & then it would crank & usually fire right over like it was new. That seemed to happen only in the morning when it was 70 degrees or colder outside but no problem after work when it was 80+ degrees.
As the weather has gotten colder, it has gotten progressively worse. A couple of weeks ago, it was in the 40s in the morning & it took a solid 8 or 9 minutes of cranking for a few seconds, then trying again before it started. Once it started it did "chuga chug" a couple of times before it smoothed out. Last week when it was 16 degrees in the morning, it wouldn't start at all. I tried for a solid 15 minutes before I gave up.
I will say that as it has gotten worse over the last couple of months, I have noticed that it's cranking w/o firing but I will hear it fire once or twice per crank before it will fire up & run. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. No studders, stalls, slow acceleration, etc. Pulls like it always has. The weirdest part about it is that once it starts & runs for 30-60 seconds, I can shut it off & it'll fire right up every time. If I get it up to full operating temperature, I can go back & start it right up 2 or 3 hours later w/o a problem.
I did notice my oil cooler is leaking pretty badly (that will be fixed this weekend) & my valley has fluid in it but it's hard to tell if it's diesel, oil or a combination of the two because my truck is setup to run on WMO (waste motor oil). I have dual tanks so the OEM tank is diesel & the auxillary tank is WMO. I have 2 mechanical fuel pressure gauges on my fuel bowl, 1 pre & 1 post fuel filter as well as an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump. The fuel pressure when running on WMO has always bounced a little bit between (65-75 psi) but the fuel pressure on diesel has always held solid at 75 psi until recently when I have noticed that it flutters a very small amount between 73-75 psi.
I have verified that the GP Relay works & was leaning towards a glow plug problem but considering it was having troubles at 70 degrees ambient temperature, I'm hesitant to think that's the true problem. I think that might just be adding to the problem. I live in the south so my truck doesn't have a block heater but I'm going to add one this weekend when I replace the oil cooler gaskets & o-rings.
I'm also going to pick up a new Android tablet today (replace my broken one) so I can use the Torque Pro app to monitor ICP, HPOP & InjPW. Finally, I had a DP Tuner chip on it & to remove that as the possible cause, I removed it & the same symptoms continued.
Camry :: 2002 2.4L - Engine Rattling Noise On Acceleration
My Camry has about 338K miles. Started making an engine rattling noise on acceleration. suspected worn timing components. I have all timing components off now. Of course plastic chain guides are worn, tensioner plunger seemed to be a little rough in actuation, exhaust cam sprocket does show signs of wear. I dont know for certain that replacing all timing components will clear noise. Questions are: considering mileage should i just replace all the timing components or the likely cause of the rattle noise(whatever that may be)? Should i replace the oil pump while i have pan off? How much trouble would it be to pull head and do valve job at this point? Lastly....2002 Camry has the 2.4 VVTI with the intake cam sprocket. How do i replace this sprocket and is it difficult?
View 14 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Engine Just Started Stalling Off Idle And Restarts Easily
Truck has been driving great for a long time and this afternoon after driving fine to work just died 3-4 times while trying to accelerate from idle. Engine restarts easily but the power is soft off idle, the injectors sound noisier and then quiet down and will accelerate decently once rolling but something is off I can tell.
Fuel pressure is read post filter and is good. Truck is well maintained with all the basics replaced in the last couple years. Could this be CPS going out even if it is only a couple years old? IPR is new in the last year, ICP sensor isn't leaking. Most recent change was a full tank of fuel yesterday afternoon and on a whim performing a boost leak check which was all good.
Ford - Explorer :: 1999 - Engine Rattling - Code P0301 / P0302 / P0303 / P0173 - Motor Shot?
My wife started our '99 Explorer last week and she said that the engine was rattling. I started it up when I got home and it sounded like something had let loose in the engine. We took it a local mechanic and he basically said that the motor was shot. I pulled the codes and it doesn't look good to me but I'm not a mechanic. Codes are:
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0173
Ford - Explorer :: 2004 - Acceleration Responding Slow / Tick Or Tap Coming From Behind The Dash
We have an 04' Ford Explorer NBX 4x4 (auto). We are not the original owners. It has a several issues.
1. Acceleration seems to be responding a little slow when I depress the accelerator pedal. Like a lag of some kind. Engine appears to idle and run fine. Just that subtle lag from gas pedal to engine response. No trouble codes
2. There is a tick or tap coming from behind the dash. This morning as soon as a put the key in the ignition the ticking started but went away after a few minutes on the road. But comes back when I come around turns (like a rounding off ramp from the HWY). Cannot figure out what it is. No trouble codes.
3. My transmission (4x4 Auto) when cold is fine, but when it warms up it seems to go into 4x4 mode and wont come out. All I have to do start going up a subtle hill (or incline) and it engages the 4x4 (at least that's what it feels like). I can hear the sound of gearing. When the transmission shifts it thumps really hard. At low speeds when I let off the gas it thumps really hard. We took it to the tranny shop and they said it was the rear end.
So we had that rebuilt. It was ok for a couple of months (rarely drive it). But it is doing it again, but seems to be getting worse. When in this mode it seems to feel like its dragging. We recently serviced the transmission filter. Replaced fluid. We reset the computer to relearn daily driving. But didn't work.
I was thinking of replacing the 4x4 module and or solenoids in tranny, or 4x4 motor on transfer case, but I don't want to spend money if it doesn't fix the problem. No trouble codes. Are all these issues related to one another? Is one issue causing the other problem to exist?
Camry :: 2007 - Rattling Noise Mostly When Engine Is Cold Started
I got a 2007 Camry 2.4 l4 engine under the hood and its didn't start this until we had a garage change the oil never did this when toyota changed it. Mostly when the engine is cold started there is a little bit of a rattling noise it will make until engine is warmed up and once its warmed up at times it will still sound kinda bad when it runs at normal engine temperature but this mostly occurs on cold starts and didn't start doing it until a regular garage changed the oil this never occurred when toyota dealership changed it
I don't know what kind of oil that was used in it last at that oil change but it started that about a week or so after that. Car currently has about 133,000 something miles on it ... Its not that loud of a noise but its noticeable when all doors are closed.
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Engine Started Making Rattling Noise
Recently my engine started making a rattling noise. It does not matter if the engine is warm or cold. In either condition it produces the same noise. The noise can be best heard at the back of the engine. My car is a Sonata 2.4 GLS from 2006 and has roughly 110000km on the odometer.
Hyundai Sonata Engine noise - YouTube
Tomorrow I'm dropping the car off to the dealer in hopes that they can find it.
Accent MC (2006-11) :: Engine Valve Knocking On Slow Acceleration
I have yet another issue with my Hyundai Accent. It seems to me that I hear engine valve knocking. Here tech. details:
- This happens around 1100-2000 rpm.
- The car currently has 11500 KM.
- 3 oil changes so far - using Mobil 1 - 10W30.
- I put in regular gas.
- No mods, only bug guard.
I drive slow - slow acceleration and I noticed sometime ago that there was a knock coming from an engine at about 1400-1700 RPM, however now I can hear it anywhere from 1100 to 2000 rpm. I can hear it very well when I drive along curbs and walls since engine sound bounces off it. I have automatic gear box and therefore I don't know how to test it further ( on manual I would have put some load on the engine by switching into high gear and pressing gas - make engine struggle a bit ). It might be noise from injector but I don't know. Also I don't know if Accent 2010 has self-adjusting valves or not.
Prius (2004-09) :: 2006 - Rattling Noise Coming From The Engine Under Acceleration Only
i have been hearing a rattling noise coming from the engine under acceleration only. It isn't a super consistent rattle, seems to only happen when accelerating from lower speeds. And sometimes you don't hear and other times you do. It's not a bad rattle or knock it's more of a ticking/light rattling sound that is definitely abnormal.
I know my brake accumulator is barking at me and the 3 way coolant valve is going bad as sometimes I get a constant pumping sound. I don't think these have anything to do with it but thought I'd mention it.
Prius (2010-12) :: Slightly Shaking Engine - Rattling Noise On Acceleration?
Slightly shaking engine and rattling noise on acceleration,it happens when the car is hot and especially when the battery level is very low ,I guess is when as more load . If I accelerate and keep it steady at 20mph I can feel a constant vibration but goes away once accelerating more....like if you're driving on a rippled surface ....that is only when engine is on , doesn't happen on electric only.
The noise it sound like a tapping coming from the engine when slowly accelerating from 0 that goes away as soon I give more gas ,is annoying wile in the traffic.? Can the sparks plugs be the problem?they been changed 120k ago.....,I cleaned the egv pipe but problem still there. Like I said is only when the engine is up to running temperature.