Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Grinding Noise From One Of Rear Wheels - Brakes Worn
I heard a grinding noise from one of my rear wheels. After investigating, I saw that the OUTER pad was worn down all the way. I had only driven 15K and it had not been very long so I did not expect this. I also didn't hear the warning tabs as the they are on the inner pad and it had not worn down enough. I checked the caliper slide bolts and they were gliding freely. I checked under the boots and there was still grease in there.
My old pads had only been worn to 30%-50% so I installed those on for now. When I compressed the piston, I had a hard time getting it started and had to apply a bit of force with the C-clamp, but then it compressed without the need for much force. When I put the pads in, it was pretty hard to get them into the clips. the inner one required me to press pretty hard with my hand, the outer one was so tight, I had to use the c clamp to get it all the way up to the rotor.
I'm wondering what the cause may be. Are there some typical causes for why the outer pad may wear faster? I would think if the caliper bolts were stuck, that would do it, but they move freely? could it just be that the pad is too tight on the slider? How might I fix that? I tried filing them down a little but that obviously wasn't enough.
Also, now the pads on the right and left are uneven and the rotor on the right isnt smooth anymore. Should I go ahead and change out the pads and that rotor? Does uneven pads or a rough rotor affect the effectiveness of the brakes significantly? They are the rear brakes so I would think there is less of an impact. I know that uneven pads and a rough rotor will cause them to wear faster, but if I need to replace them anyways, I might as well wait til they wear down more.
Ford Excursion :: 2000 V10 - Crankshaft Worn Out
I have a 2000 v10 Excursion, I have replaced the crankshaft on another vehicle before, so it's not anything new to me but with that vehicle I had a place outside where I could pull the motor out and do all the work outside of the vehicle. What I'm wondering is is it possible to replace the crankshaft while it is still in the engine compartment. I know that i will have to disconnect the transmission from the engine and slide the tranny back in order to be able to remove the crankshaft along with removing other items from under the motor, oil pan etc.
I'm just wondering I have the twin I-beam suspension for the front tires and it bolts to the cross-member so I know that I will have to unbolt the cross-member and raise and support the motor from above by chain and beam in order to remove everything from the bottom and pull out the spark plugs in order to release the pressure on the top of the pistons so that I can slide them up and down easier during removal and installation but I'm just wanting to get thoughts from everyone about whether it can be done without pulling the motor out because I don't have the area this time to pull out the motor.
Ford Excursion :: 2004 - Rear Springs Worn Out And Sagging
My Ex has a ProComp 6" lift that was installed in 2004 (it's an 03) and it seems that the rear springs are worn out and sagging. I'm assuming the lift used the stock springs and blocks. I haven't measured but I'd say the rear is 1" - 2"s lower in the back. Question is should I replace the springs with stock ones? Maybe get springs that'll give me some lift and remove the blocks? Airbag it?
View 14 RepliesFord Excursion :: 2WD V10 - Front End Shaking / Wheels Wobble
Have been battling this for months. Thought it was warped rotors, but has continued to go crazy. Truck is fine until braking at freeway speeds to 0 at about 35 front end goes crazy with shakes. Wheels physically wobble. Thought it was bearings replaced them. Put on rancho 9000 shocks replaced all steering and tie rods had aligned. Put on EDC slotted and drilled rotors with yellow stuff pads, new calipers. Each time worked for about 15 miles than started again until crazy wobble. Scaring the wife and kids to point they will no longer ride in truck. Steering is now slack need to adjust and probably need to look at everything again but it still is rectifying symptoms not problem.
View 5 RepliesFord Excursion :: 2000 - Rear Wheels Hopping At The Hub By 50 Mph
Vehicle is a 2000 Ex. Limited 2WD 6.8, 3:73 rear, 135,000 miles purchased at the end of December (Merry Christmas to me!). When I purchased the vehicle it had some vibration at speed, that I chalked up to the completely worn tires, tire rod ends and ball joints, all that I knew about when purchasing. The vibration slowly builds up to 70mph, and then comes on like a light switch where it is nearly violent, then slowly dissipates over 80mph. First on the vehicle were new BFG TA/KO2's 285 75 16. No change in vibration. Next were ball joints and tie rod ends. No change in vibration. Next were new inner/outer front hub bearings, rotors, pads. No change in vibration. At this point I was scratching my head a little. I had the tire balance checked twice by two different shops. Alignment was also checked by two different shops.
The vehicle has 2" spacers under the front coils and an aftermarket 4" lift block in the rear of unknown manufacture. I decided that the vibration may be due to an incorrect taper on the block causing a pinion angle issue. I replaced the block with a stock F-350 block for the same wheelbase truck. No change in vibration.
At this point I figure all that is left is the driveshaft and I am very fortunate to have the great guys at Driveshaft Specialists about 2 miles away from my office here in San Antonio. They took it out for a drive and said "we'd love to sell you a new driveshaft, but we don't think that's it." They put it on the lift, jacked up the rear by the differential and ran it up to speed. By 50mph the rear wheels had VERY VISIBLE "hopping" at the hub. You would have thought there were 5lb weights attached to the inside of each wheel. It was vibrating like crazy. There isn't any noise or play to indicate bearings (and with the amount of wobble/hopping/vibration I was seeing the bearings would have to be reduced to dust). Their best guess is that somehow the axles are bent
They referred me to another shop where the Ex will be going today, for possibly new axles. I am leaving for a 2500 mile round trip road trip Thursday and am at my wits (and wallets) end.
Ford Excursion :: 4wd Dash Light Comes On But Only Rear Wheels Are Engaging
My 2002 X won't shift into 4wd. The dash light comes on, but only my rear wheels are engaging. Trying for a half hour, I intermittently was able to get it into 4LO without the front wheels engaging still, but it took me a long time to get it out of LO. While in neutral, I would switch the dash selector out of 4LO into 4HI and it wouldn't switch. Id move the truck a few feet forward and then back and try again and finally got it out of 4 LO, but it went back to just the rears, even with the 4x4 HI dash light on. I replaced the ESOF hubs with warn hubs a few months ago, so the ESOF aren't the problem. The only thing I didn't do when I swapped out the ESOF was plug the vacuum lines, would that affect manual hubs? I am visiting relatives in eastern WA and it has snowed 5 inches in the past few hours. I need to make it 180 miles home tomorrow.
View 3 RepliesFord Excursion :: Clunking Sound When Turn Wheels To Full Lock?
When I turn the wheels to full lock, either right or left, I hear a clunking sound. Usually pulling into parking spots, into the driveway, etc.....but only going forward, not in reverse. Where do I start?
View 9 RepliesFord Excursion :: Easiest Way To Remove Center Caps From Factory Wheels?
There has got to be an easier way then the homemade method I'm using?
View 14 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2001 XLT Steering Doesn't Turn Wheels But Spins
Here's a little more info on the truck I'll be working on:
-2001 Ford F-150 XLT Supercrew Cab 5.4L Triton.
-Has been used as a work truck so it has some miles on it 200,000+ and it shows. He showed me the lower control arm and the upper control arms bushings are a worn. Some coming apart and others with cracks in the (the bushings).
-So might need some more things replace but need to learn more about the truck to figure out exactly what?
Anyway, I'm probably just scratching the surface of the work needing to be done on this truck but for now I'll focus on the more important issues since without a functioning steering wheel he cant drive the beast. Might end up doing some customizing to the truck in the future such as changing the headlights to give the truck a more meaner look, along with the grill.
Ford Excursion :: Faint Odor Of Differential Fluid From Driver Side Front And Rear Wheels
I've only had the Ex for a few months so I'm still learning... After a trip to Orlando this weekend, I noticed a very faint odor of differential fluid from the driver's side front and rear wheels.
Nothing on the passenger's side. I've inspected the pinions and axles and found no wet areas at all, so I'm a little perplexed. The wheels and axle housings were pretty cool considering a 5 hour round trip.
I was also wondering if what I am smelling is due to the axle vent hoses?
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 - Replaced PS Pump Now No Steering When Wheels On Ground?
I replaced the power steering pump on my 2000 f250 Power stroke. I bled the lines, and when the wheels are on the ground, I have no steering. When I raise the wheels off the ground, I have no problems turning stop to stop.
View 9 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Power Steering Stiff And Almost Impossible To Turn Wheels At A Dead Stop
I have a 2001 F250 SD V10 and when at a dead stop and with the brakes applied, steering becomes very stiff and almost impossible to turn the wheels. If I let off of the brakes and move a little the steering is just fine. I hate like hell to spend the money on a new power steering pump if it isn't going to fix the problem. Simply put, deap stop, brakes on, wheels don't want to steer. How do I fix it?
View 10 RepliesCamry :: Steering Wheels Violently Shaking On Brakes?
Recently I notice, when I'm going 60+ and then I need to slowdown, my steering wheel starts violently shacking. Plus I have watch with metal band and it it's making even more noise when it's starts to shake. Sometimes it's not that much to slowdown, but that shaking is too much. It's not ABS, because when ABS working you feel it in brake pedal, here is in steering wheel.
Also, I would like to mention the fact that I need to change my brakes! Now I don't know if its because of my brakes or some other problem.
Not that I need it, but this though keeps popping up every now and then. My speedometer shows 160, but I can go only 125! I was told that its some kind of chip that prevents to go higher. Is there a way to take that limit off? This question is purely for my curiosity.
Wheels :: Steering Binding Up Turning Hard Right Or Left
I have a 01 Chrysler Sebring 4D Sedan. I have been working on cars many years, never done tie rods. This my first attempt, I messed something up I believe. I replaced both inner tie rods and outer ends. I followed what I thought was correct procedure., counted turns on ends coming off. Installed new ones the same amount of turns. Before I did this the steering was fine. Now when I turn sharp to the right or left, like turning in to a driveway, I get an awful binding grinding noise, and I can feel it shimmy in the wheel. It will even stop the car going hard right. I can see evidence of rubbing on the CV boot closest to the wheel on the pass side. I assume I messed up somewhere with setting the steering when I installed the Tie rod ends to the wheel hubs.
View 19 RepliesPontiac - Vibe :: Steering Misaligned When The Wheels Are Straight
In an effort to save some money, my husband replaced the worn front brake pads and rotors on our 2009 Pontiac Vibe. He had a lot of trouble removing the old parts and did use force. Now with the new rotors and brake pads installed, the steering wheel is misaligned when the wheels are straight. There is no pull to either side when driving. What happened and what should we do?
View 18 RepliesLexus SC430 :: Steering Wheel Shake At 60-65 Mph - Wheels Shimmy
2002 SC430 with 50k miles. I have a set of aftermarket Dolce rims that are 18" with the stock size tires. I have the eccentric spacers on them as well. They have been mounted and balanced. I also have a set of Dunlop snow tires on my stock rims. Obviously I do a seasonal change over.
With either set of tires I am getting a steering wheel shake at 60-65 mph. By 80mph its gone and the car glides perfectly. There is no pulsation in the brake pedal and there is minimal wear on the pads. Below 60mph there is no issues as well.
Tires are wearing evenly. Some roads will make the movement worse, but it always goes away at around 80 mph.
Now both sets of tires were mounted and balanced by the same shop. I assume that could be it...there machine is faulty. But I would like some other possibilities before I try somewhere else.
Subaru - Steering - Impreza - Wheels :: Violent Shaking Upon Acceleration At 65 Mph
Whenever I am driving my Subaru Impreza, the steering wheel shakes above 60mph and is a violent shake at 65mph making it unbearably frustrating to drive to school each day. Recently I had slipped on ice and hit a curb with the tires on the right side of the car. I took it to a shop to get the rims looked at, and ended up replacing the back right. The mechanic said nothing about the front one however. My question to you is; could it be that the front rim is also bent? Or that it could just be a buildup of ice. It is cold here, snows often and is never above 20F.
View 4 RepliesPhaeton :: Steering Wheel Slightly Turned When Wheels Pointing Straight
Is there any quick fix for this? My steering wheel is slightly turned when the wheels are pointing straight. I thought a wheel alignment would fix this, but it didn't.
View 3 RepliesSubaru - Steering - Alignment - Outback - Wheels :: 2003 - Shudders At Low Temp?
My Outback gets the DTs in the steering wheel. 2003 with 300K highway miles. New tie-rods, brakes, brake master cylinder, alignment & balance (all from great shop with great rep) have failed to eliminate the problem. It comes on suddenly at highway speeds, usually in cold weather (below 20); but not necessarily in snowy conditions. Slowing down to 30/20 mph does not stop the shudder (though it slows and reveals itself as a fierce twitch to the right). Eventually the shudder is accompanied by a rhythmic scraping sound somewhere in the left front wheel well, which maybe is there all along but inaudible at higher speeds.
View 5 Replies