Ford Excursion :: Rear AC Fan Not Turning On?
Front AC working just fine. Is it a blower I need? How much and how hard to install?
View 5 RepliesFord Excursion :: Rear Tire Shredded
Ripped out rear heater core lines. Bashed up body
View 14 RepliesFord Excursion :: Rear A/C Blows Warm?
It seems the local dealership has finally figured out why the rear ac blows warm while the front blows cold. It only took 5 trips.
The part # comes out to F75Z19A522AA or F75Z-19A522-AA. Its listed on Tousley and other online parts outlet but so far all that I have called said it is no obsolete and they are no longer available from Ford.
Rear inlet door actuator - obsolete part? Where I can find this part (I'll even consider used)?
Ford Excursion :: Rear AC Motor Not Working At All
Just purchased a new to me 2003 Ex with the 6.0. The rear AC motor is not working at all. No hot air blowing...nada. I swapped out the 40 amp fuse for the auxiliary blower and still no luck. What should my next move be?
View 3 RepliesFord Excursion :: Rear Differential Noise?
Some of you may have seen my recent post about raising the X. Its about 5" higher in the rear. Prior to raising the X, I had a vibration at around 65 to 70 mph. It felt like a tire was out of balance. Go a steady slower speed or a steady faster speed and it would go away.
Since raising the X, the vibration is gone, which I thought was cool. But now I have a "grind" type noise coming from the rear. I have to do all the testing on the freeway. There are no issues, no noises at regular street speeds.
On the freeway, when accelerating fairly hard up a hill from say 65 to 80, I can hear sort of a rumbly, grindy noise from the rear. Its not really loud but I can hear and feel it throughout the cab. If I coast at around 70-75 mph (just keep the speed the same) on flat ground, I can hear it come and go when the X is truly coasting for a few seconds. If I get up to say 85 and let off the gas, I can hear it as I decelerate until I get down to around 65.
This all only happens between say 75 and 90. I get no noise below 65-ish.
I had the drive shaft out over the weekend. The u-joints had no play and were free moving. I did feel the smallest play in the slip yoke, so I gave it a good greasing. That didn't change anything.
I'm guessing the problem is in the differential somewhere. I have not pulled the cover off yet to check the fluid.
Ford Excursion :: Rear Passenger Hub Heating Up
My rear passenger hub and wheel have been heating up much more than the others. Sometimes too hot to touch more than a second when you can basically grab on the others. I have taken the tire off, rebalanced it, made sure it and the wheel were normal, taken out the axle shaft, checked inside, regreased the bearings and replaced the inner seal. Everything looked good.
Plenty of fluid in there and the bearings looked perfect. Before I did that I checked the e brake boots to make sure they weren't eating into the rotor. They looked normal, no abnormal wear and the inside of the rotor doesn't look scored or anything. Yet after all of that, even with the mechanic from the auto skills center there with me looking at all of it, we cannot figure out why its still heating up.
Ford Excursion :: Rear Heat Won't Working?
the rear heat doesnt work, the front heat works and the rear AC works fine.
View 6 RepliesFord Excursion :: Rear AC Panel Removal
I need to get to the filter in the rear ac panel. What is the best way to go about removing the Panel? How much do I have to remove?
View 6 RepliesFord Excursion :: How To Remove The Rear Bumper
I have a newbie question on how to remove the rear bumper? Do I disconnect the sensors first or remove the bumper and disconnect the sensors.
I read this thread : [URL] .....
But was not sure which bolt to remove? Is it all 4 on each side or 2 toward the rear of the bumper?
Ford Excursion :: Rear Passenger Window Will Only Go Up
Rear passenger window will only go up. I tried new motor, same problem, swapped switch with other back door the problem stayed on the same side. Drivers main switch to that rear window does same thing, up but not down.
View 12 RepliesFord Excursion :: Rear View Mirror Going Out
There is a small crescent shape of clear mirror on the top middle of my mirror. I think the dimming "juice" has been compromised. Am I SOL or is there a way to fix it? What vehicles are interchangeable and is there a mirror that's better that I could swap in?
View 10 RepliesFord Excursion :: Rear Hatch Lock Different?
Does the rear hatch come from the factory with a different key than the ignition? My key will not open the rear hatch lock, it doesn't even go in the whole way.
View 4 RepliesFord Excursion :: PSI In Front And Rear Tires?
" Michelin LTX A/T 2 Load range E tires that are size 265/75/16"
I don't haul much and I don't tow.
How much in the front tires and how much in the rear?
Ford Excursion :: 2001 - Right Rear Wheel Getting Hot
The right rear wheel is getting hot on my 2001 ltd 4x4 7.3. It also has some smell of brakes. That wheel had a new caliper, and pads as well as a new line about 2 years or 15K ago. What should I look at first? Could the emergency brake be sticking?
View 2 RepliesFord Excursion :: Rear Hatch Won't Open
So I hooked up to the camper on Friday, threw some gear in the back off the Ex and hit the road. 4 hours and a couple hundred miles later I set up the camper and tried to pop the rear hatch. It's a no-go. It appears that the passenger side latch is releasing but the drivers side is not. My tool selection is limited since I'm on the road, any tricks to get the hatch open? Probably just deal with it till I get home since I don't want the reverse problem and not be able to get it latched again.
View 3 RepliesFord Excursion :: Vibration Coming From The Rear
I have a vibration coming from the rear. I put new tires on yesterday. Still it vibrates. I'm on the verge of doing a complete driveshaft overhaul very soon. The u_joints look a little worn but I can't feel any slop. I have watched a few videos on the slip yoke. How do you fix the slip yoke.
View 6 RepliesFord Excursion :: Rear Doors Won't Lock?
I discovered recently that the rear doors no longer lock. Scared the crap out of me when I open them to load something not realizing I hadn't unlocked the truck, and the alarm went off. I haven't tried to open the thing up yet to see what may be broken or loose.
View 5 RepliesFord Excursion :: Rust Spots At Rear A/C?
Have a rust spot coming thru rear, that I am presuming is due to condensate from rear a/c.
If the rear inside panel where jack is located is removed, it is from the rear inside corner behind the jack.
Ford Excursion :: Rear Brake Pad Change?
Well I've got 54K on the Ex and we'll be heading out for what will likely be our last long towing trip through some pretty serious terrain. I've got Hawk LTS pads on the front and those are doing really well but I wanted to change out my rear pads...upon closer inspection I still had about 1/3 of the pads left...but since I had torn everything apart...I installed the new pads so here's some pictures and a little write up as I go.
First jack up the rear of the Ex and make sure you support it with jack stands for safety.
Next remove the wheels and here's what you got
What you are looking for are 4 bolts on the back side. There are 2 caliper mounting bolts and 2 slide bolts. Torque values for the caliper mounting bolts are 166 ft-lbs and for the slide bolts 42 ft-lbs. I believe the caliper mounting bolt is an 18mm and the slide bolt is a 12 or 13mm (sorry I can't remember right now). But here's what you will be looking for...notice I'm reaching behind the rotor to take this picture outwards...
You will want to LOOSEN the caliper mounting bolts FIRST but DO NOT REMOVE them yet...then loosen the slide bolts...once both are loose...remove the caliper mounting bolts and SUPPORT the caliper...do NOT let it hang by the hose.
Here's a close up of my old pads...you can see there's still plenty of meat...but I was here and it don't take long to change them...
Remove the slide bolts and then separate the slide from the caliper
Next you will need to remove the slide pins from their holes...CAREFULLY grip the top of the rubber boot and slide if off of the pin as you are pulling hte pin up and out. Work with one slide pin at a time to not confuse them...one has a NOTCH and that will go on top the of the caliper...but if you work one at a time...there's no confusion. Pull out the slide pin and clean it off...you will need some high temperature brake grease to LIGHTLY lube up the pins before reinserting them. IF the pins are STUCK (mine weren't but I've heard they can be...) you may need to apply a little heat to try and break them free. Inspect the boots to make sure they aren't cracked or dry rotted and once you apply a THIN layer of grease...reinsert them into the hole and slip the boot back over the ridges. It will be obvious for the orientation when you reinstall the slide onto the caliper...basically the "flat" edge goes against the caliper and the "round" or "notch" sticks out the end...
At this point you will need to "press" the caliper pistons back into the caliper...there are a number of ways to do this...you can get a caliper tool from Autozone (they give it to you for free you just leave a deposit on your credit card so you bring it back!)...or you can do what I do...use a big C-clamp and I use my old brake pads to press against...compress the pistons back into the caliper...BUT REMEMBER TO LOOSEN YOUR MASTER CYLINDER CAP FIRST...when you compress your piston...the fluid in the lines gets forced back into the master cylinder...if you don't open the lid...pressure could be built up...
Here's the new pads installed and the slide bolts barely engaged to hold the slide to the caliper...Do not tighten these bolts until you have reinstalled the caliper onto the mounting brackets and snugged down the caliper mounting bolts.
Here's a view looking DOWN from above with the slide bolts AND mounting bolts engaged but NOT tightened yet.
Now make sure you torque everything up on this side and move to the other side and repeat the steps.
Once you finish the second side make sure you tighten your master cylinder cap.
At this point I also rotated my tires...but if you aren't doing that...simply return your tires to the Ex and torque your lug nuts and you are done.
I can typically change brake pads in about 30-45 minutes...they aren't that hard at all.
Next step...start the truck and pump the brakes to return brake pressure...then take the truck for a drive.
It is important to also "bed in your pads"...this involves a number of 30mph to 5mph HARD STOPS to heat up the pads and rotors and allow for a transfer of brake pad material to the rotors...you'll smell "hot brakes" when you have done it enough...typically about 6-8 hard stops. Then let the truck cool down without your foot on the brakes.
I didn't mess with the parking brake while I was back there because I had tested it just prior to my starting and it is holding nicely...I didn't feel like messing with it incase it is all rusted and fell apart on me.