Ford Transmission :: 4R100 - 2000 Ford Excursion - Grinding / Vibration Occurs Between 2100 - 2300 RPMs

I have recently found what sounds like a grinding/vibration issue that occurs between ~2100-~2300 RPM's in my truck. After some googling, I thought it may be the inspection plate being a bit bent/loose. I took the cover off and drove around and the noise still occurred.

Things I have noticed:

-Occurs between 1-2 and 2-3 (had trouble with the other gear changeovers as I just have slow backroads around me to test over my lunch break- can test further in the future)
-Occurs during acceleration and deceleration
-Starts at ~2100 and ends ~2300 RPM

Any thoughts for next steps to diagnose? Truck has ~160k on it and I don't really have many service records (purchased within the past 3k miles and problem just started occurring after this past weekend). Transmission fluid seems to be in decent condition.

Not sure if it would affect anything, but I just got back from my first trip with the Excursion where I actually needed to utilize the 4WD. There was much more aggressive terrain than what it is used to seeing on the pavement. Thought I should mention that as well.

V10, if that matters (I recall reading somewhere that '99 7.3s with the auto had documented torque converter issues that warranted a TSB)....

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We've had a lot of rain here in pa lately and i hit a few big puddles the other day and now i have a growl slash wine in the front of my motor,now i narrowed it down to something driven by the bely because I removed the belt and no noise all pulleys feel good and smooth except the ac compressor if you spin it by hand it has a rough/dry feeling and sound to it but the noise doesn't change with the ac on or off its just constant grinding/whine. Replace the ac compressor pulley bearing that what I am thinking it is and don't really want to change out the whole compressor..

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I have a 2001 F350 with a7.3 power stroke, 6 speed manual with manual t case and hubs. I have a bad grinding noise when in 2 wheel drive. Similar sound as if you are trying to shift t case into 4 wheel drive too slowly. The grinding is constant in 2 wheel drive, but if I shift it into 4 wheel drive, the noise completely goes away. I have been driving around in 4 wheel drive (T case only, manual hubs not locked) for the past 2 days. If I shift back into 2 wheel drive, a constant terrible grinding noise returns. What could be wrong, and why it goes away in 4 wheel drive?????

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Unlike Ap24, who has a post/thread about his CONSTANT noise under acceleration, mine is only happening once. For instance say I'm sitting at a stop light, and start accelerating, it's almost like the body shifts backwards. When I come to a stop and jab the brakes a little, its like it shifts forward. My dad seems to think it is the U joint.. but i'm not convinced as it does it on deceleration.

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My 1976 Chevy Blazer K5, runs and drives excellent. But when I take it up into the mountains 4 wheeling, there is a problem. Any time that one or the other of the front tires goes up on a hill and there is any twist to the frame, I get this constant grinding noise. If I stop and put it in park, it still grinds and wont stop until the front tires on the same plane. What could this be?

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so I bought my gli about a month ago assuming it needed a clutch (got it for a steal so wasn't worried about it) the kid I bought it from didn't really know much about the issue but it was a constant grinding when in gear and moving but the second you engage the clutch it would stop, and quiet down completely, so I dropped the trans and inspected clutch, throw out bearing, & fly wheel it all looked new.

So than my second guess was it was something internally in the transmission so I sent it out to be inspected and repaired as needed. I got a call from the shop today that said everything was perfect so I am completely stumped as to what my problem is. I have a new clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing, all new linkage, & am changing fluid. I don't know what else it could be and really don't wanna have to drop the trans again once its back together.

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I have been reading about the door ajar warning light issue, and mine alike has door ajar light always on. However, my dome/interior lights do not react to the opening of any doors/rear door hatch.

It's not out of the question that the last owner might have disconnected what he needed to to avoid fixing the problem and still use the truck. Where to start given I can't troubleshoot down to one particular door ajar sensor?

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For about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away.

My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.

Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K

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After 11 VWs, I finally have one that I would love to drive over a cliff. My 2015 Golf TSI Sport is a miserable car for me. I have had it back to the dealer four times for the infamous "shimmy" and shift problem with the automatic transmission. It has the standard automatic. The transmission has no idea which gear to use, it shifts like a bowling ball in a barrel.

Clunks upshifting and downshifting. The other problem is the shimmy/wobble. I have it in spades. The car always feels like it is hitting small strips in the road with a constant vibration in the front. The dealer cannot find the problem even though VW is trying to figure it out. (I have a feeling this isn't the first time). It is the worst driving car I have ever owned. Would much rather drive my 04 GTI with 100,000 miles and worn tires.

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2000 - Constant Engine Vibration When Car Is In Gear

I have a 2000 Jetta with the 2.0 automatic and just like the title states, I have recently developed a engine vibration that is felt at all times. It is much worse when the car is in gear. I only seem to feel it in the gas and brake pedals. It does not seem to depend on speed nor does it only occur at certain rpms. It feels like someone zip tied a vibrating back messager to my pedals. I want to find out what it is because on long commutes my foot begins to feel like its falling asleep. I can visually see the engine vibrating with the car in gear. I am leaning towards motor mounts.

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Our FWD Santa Fe Limited had a very noticeable vibration that started around 60mph. Oddly, the vibration will sometimes come and go while cruising at a constant speed on the highway. We went about 30k miles before we had time to get it into the shop.

I asked them to rotate and balance the tires and the vibration was noticeably reduced...initially. Now it's back!

The car has ~65k miles. All 4 Kumho tires match and I believe are original from the factory. I have kept all tires inflated properly.

Our car has the optional 18" wheels. Is it common for these to bend? What else could be the cause here?

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My 03 Tacoma TRD is showing her years! The truck has about 215k and has some serious vibrations and noises going on. First off I have a constant shaking type of vibration between 25 and 35 mph, but it is also present in the higher speeds of 55 and above but sometimes it gets drowned out. I work at a ski resort so when Im coming down the mtn using 3rd gear or so to slow down I feel the vibration is the most apparent then. So far I have had 2 shops look at my driveshaft and both concluded there is nothing wrong with the u joints. I had a CV shaft installed because one of the boots was torn so I went ahead and had that replaced.

What the vibration is.....2nd is more of a intervalled whooomping sound almost like a bullfrog-like interval. As I increase speed the intervals get faster but it is a drawn out whooomp whooomp not a fast sound. It actually rattles the change in my ash tray to the bpms of the sound. Also I have a metallic clunking sound happening when I put the truck in gear (manual) or start and stop at slow speeds without using the clutch. I was driving around a parking deck the other day in first gear and it would make the sound whenever i hit the gas AND when I let off the gas. ONE MORE THING, whenever I am starting off under load in any gear, the truck jerks.....it hesitates and lurches but only at low rpms and again in any gear.

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I have this annoying vibration that starts at 85-90 mph and stays relatively constant above that, but doesn't get super intense or feel like the car is going to fall apart. Its a light vibration that I can feel at 9 and 3 on the steering wheel.

Background: So about 6 months ago I realized my CV boot was torn. I tried to replace CV joint, but they sent wrong joint(Meyle) so we ended up trying to force it onto the CV shaft for like an hour before giving up. I remember one of my BMW Technician buddies literally smashing the joint onto the shaft with a plastic mallet but it just wouldn't go over the circlip.

We ended up just replacing the boot and putting the old CV joint back on, but we didn't have any extra grease to put in it because we had already put it into the new joint that wouldn't fit. Since then I've basically tried everything I can think of, including:

-Balanced and Road Forced
-Laser Alignment
-Replaced all 4 tires
-Fixed bent rims
-Refreshed suspension/steering:
-All new F+R LCA bushings
-New inner/outer tie rods
-New ball joints
-New sway bar bushings
-New strut top mounts

So what the hell is keeping her from being smooth as butter over 90? Did we screw up the shaft by beating on it? Or is it just vibrating from the lack of grease/damage from torn boot? Was I supposed to align the shaft when putting it back on or something?

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Went to the dealership, they looked at it said the same abt needing wheel alignment and asked me to change the timing belt!. Still same sound. Went to Sams club to look at the tires & they said check the brakes, tires are fine, it cannot wear out so soon and its not covered under warranty. Brakes got checked out as fine. Went back to Sams again and was told to check Suspension and Struts this time. Went to a mechanic and he gave me an all clear this morning! I am going on a road trip and don't want to be in an accident!

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The left front suspension has always felt odd to me. Nothing serious, but just "off." When backing up and turning it has a sort of wobbly feel on that corner at times. I've been assured by several mechanics that they can find no problems. It feels to me like maybe sometimes the strut piston sticks on that corner. Don't know if that ever happens or not, but that's the best description I can come up with!

It has always vibrated from 45 on up. It's not a hard shudder, but just a constant vibration at highway speed that you can feel in your feet and the steering wheel. I've had it balanced and re-balanced to no avail. Sometimes it gets a little better, sometimes worse, but it's never gone away. Recently it seems to be getting worse.

I put it up on jackstands and accelerated to 60, and it vibrates like the wheels are out of balance. Yesterday I replaced the Kumhos (they had bad road noise anyway) with Michelins. The Michelins cured the road noise problems and have a much better overall feel, but I've still got the balance problem.

Just put it up on jackstands again and spun it up, and I still have the same vibration!

What to look for? The car has just now turned over 35k miles. I'm wondering if the CV joint on that left side was damaged and is causing the vibration. I've got new wheels as well instead of the factory steel rims. Also, with the car up on stands, the wheels spin true. No bent hub, etc.

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